Engelbert Kaempfer: The History of Japan, London 1727

Internet Edition by Wolfgang Michel, Kyushu University, Fukuoka-City, Japan. © 2007

 
RAW AND INCOMPLETE SCANNER VERSION. NOT EDITED YET

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BOOK V
The Author's two Journies to the Emperor's Court at Jedo, the City of his Residence

Chap. I Preparations for our Journey, with a Description of the manner of travelling in this Country.

Ever since the time of Joritomo, the first Secular Monarch of Japan, who laid the foundation of the present form of government, it hath been a custom observ'd, not only by the Governors of the Imperial Cities, and Lords Lieutenants of the Provinces, Lands and Demesns, belonging to the Crown, but likewise by all other Daimio, and Siomjo, as they are here call'd, that is, the Lords of all ranks and qualities throughout this vast Empire, to go to court once a year, and to pay their duties, the Lords of a higher rank, who for the extent of their power and dominions) could well be stil'd Kings, or Princes, to the Emperor himself, the rest only to his Prime Ministers assembled in council. Both accompany their reverences with presents proportionable to their quality and riches, in token of their acknowledging the supremacy of the Emperor. The Dutch, when they came to settle in Japan, conformvd themselves to this antient custom, as did also in their time the Portuguese. The Resident of our East India Company, and chief Director of our trade for the time being, makes    [394]    this Journey, with a Physician, or Surgeon, and one or two Secretaries, and attended with numerous flocks of Japanese of different ranks and qualities, whom the Governors of Nagasaki, as our Magistrates in this Country, whose instructions and orders we are to follow, appoint, as it were to honour and convoy us, as persons that are a going to see the Supreme Majesty of the Empire, but in fact and chiefly, to guard and watch us, to keep a good eye over our conduct, to prevent us from having any suspicious and unlawful conversation and communication with the natives, from conveying secretly to them crosses, images, relicks, or any other things, which bear any relation to the Christian religion, from presenting them with other European rarities, or from selling the same to them in private, and more particularly to take care, that none of us should escape into thc country, there either to attempt the reviving and propagatina of the Christian faith, or otherwise to occasion tumults and disturbances, in prejudice of the tranquillity. now establish'd in the Empire. So important a trust being laid upon the Japanese companions of our Journey, the reader may easily imagine, that none are chose, but persons of known candor and fidelity, and who are otherwise employ'd in at^fairs relating to the inspection and regulation of our trade, besides some of the Goverllors own domesticks. Nay far from relying meerly on thelr faithfulness and sincerity, though perhaps never so oftell approv'd of, all those, that are to go with us, from the leader down to the meanest servant, (those only excepted, who must look after the horses, and are frequently chang'd must, before they set out on this Journey, oblige themselves by a solemn and dreadful oatl, sign'd as usual with their blood, to give notice to the Government at Nagasaki of whatever they observe to be done, either by the Dutch, or by their own Countrymen, contrary to the standing laxvs of the country, and the many particular instructions, whlch are given them.

I went to the Emperor's court twice my self, to my t very great satisfaction: the first time, in the year I6gI a with Henry von Butenheim, a gentleman of great candour, ' affability and generosity, and well vers'd in the customs and language of the Japanese, who by his good conduct knew how to keep up the reputation of his masters without prejudice to their interest; the second time, in I692, with Cornelius van Outhoorn, brother to the Governor general at Batavia, a gentleman of great learning, excellent sense, and well skill'd in several languages, who by his innate aSability found means particularly to ingratiate himself into the affection of this proud and jealous nation, and promoting the interest of his masters, so much as lay in his power, discharg'd all the duties of his office to the entire satisfaction both of those, who sent him, and of those, to whom he was sent. I will here give a particular account, by way of a Journal, of what occur'd to me remarkable in these two Journies, having first premis'd some    [ 395]    general observations, which seem'd to me to be necessary to facilitate the understanding of what I shall lay down in the Journals themselves, with all the sincerity, I am capable off.

The preparations for our Journey consist in the following particulars. The very first thing to be done, is to look M out proper presents tor his Imperial Majesty, for his Privy n counsellors, and some other great ofiicers at Jedo, Miako, and Osacca, the whole amounting, as near as possible, to a certain sum, to sort them, and particularly to assign to whom they are to be deliver'd. Afterwards they must be put up into leather bags, which are carefully wrapt up in mats, in order to preserve them from all accidents in so long a Journey, and for a farther security several seals are affix'd unto them. It is the business of the Governors of Nagasaki, to judge and determine, what might prove acceptable to the Court. They take out of the goods laid up in our ware houses what they think proper, and give instructions to the departing Director, about such things, as should be sent over from Batavia the next year. Sometimes some of their own goods, they have been presented with by the Chinese, are put in among these presents, because by this means they can dispose of them to the best advantage, either by obliging us to buy them at an excessive and their own pricea or by exchanging them for other goods. Now and then some uncommon curiositieS, either of nature or art, are brought over from Europe, and other parts of the world, on purpose, to be presented to the Emperor. But it often happens, that they are not approved of by these rigid censors. Thus, for instance, there were brought over in my time, two brass flre engines of the newest invention, but the Governors did not think it proper, that they should be presented to the Emperor, and so return'd them to us, after they had first seen them tried, and taken a pattern of them: another time the bird Casuar was sent over from Batavia, but likewise dislik'd and denied the honour of appearing before the Emperor, because they heard he was good for nothing but to devour a large quantity of victuals. After sometime spent in chusing and getting ready these presents, they are brought on board a barge with necessary provisions, three or four weeks before our departure, and sent by water to Simonoseki, a small town, situate upon the extremity of the great Island Nipon, where they wait our arrival by land. Formerly our Embassador, with his whole retinue, embark'd at the same time, to go thither by water, whereby we sav'd a great deal of trouble and expence we must now be at in travelling by land, but a violent storm havinr once put the whole company into eminent danger, and the voyage having been oitenb by reason of the contrary winds, too long and too tedious, the Emperor hath order'd, that for the future we should go thither by land. This barge, on board which the Imperial presents are carried to Simonoseki, is kept in the harbour    [ 396]    of Nagasaki, at the expence of the company, for this sole purpose, and cannot be made use of for any other whatsoever. The presents for the Imperial Court, and other heavy baggage, being sent before us, the rest of the time till our departure is spent upon such vast preparations for our journey, as if we design'd some great expedition into a remote part of the worid.

The first, and indeed the most essential part of these preparations, consists in nominating, and giving proper instructions, to the several officers, and the whole retinue, that is to go wath us to Court. The Governors appoint, one of their Joriki's, or military officers of the first rank, to be Bugio, that is, head and commander in chief. He is to represent the authority of his masters, as a badge whereof he hath a pike carried after him. A Dosin, or inferior military officer, is order'd to assist him in quality of his Deputy. Both the Joriki and Dosin are taken from among the domesticks of one of the Governors, who stays that year at Nagasaki. To these are added two beadles, by the name and in quality of Tsioosin, or Townmessengers. Both the Tsioosin and the Dosin, carry by virtue of their office a halter about them, to arrest and secure, at command or wink from the Joriki, any person guilty, or only suspected to be guilty of any misdemeanor. All these persons, besides the officers attending the Bugio, are look'd upon as military men, and as such have the privilege of wearing two swords. 'Tis from thence they are call'd Samurai, which signifies persons who wear two swords, or soldiers, all persons, that are not either noblemen by birth, or in some military employment, being by a late Imperial edict denied this privilege.

I have observ'd in the preceeding book, that our Interpreters are divided into two companies, the upper or Superior, consisting of the eight chief Interpreters, and the inferior including all the rest. The Ninban, or President for the time being, of each of these companies, is appointed of course to attend us in this journey. To these is now added a third, as an apprentice, whom they take along with them to qualify him for the succession, and to shew him betimes, and by proper experience, how for the future he must behave himself on the like occasion. All the chief officers, and all other persons that are able to do it, take some servants along with them, partly to wait upon them, partly for state. The Bugio, or commander in chief, and the principal Interpreter take as many as they please, the other officers, each two or three, as they are able, or as their office requires. The Dutch Captain, or Ambassador may take three, and every Dutchman of his retinue is allow'd one. The Interpreters commonly recommend their favourites to us, the more ignorant they are of the Dutch Language, the better it answers their intention. Not to mention some other persons, who by order, or special leave of the Governors and Interpreters, make the journey in company with us, and indeed at our expence    [ 397]    too, tho' otherwise they have no manner of business upon our account. All these future companions of our voyage, whom I have hitherto mention'd, have leave to make us some friendly visits at Desima, sometime before our departure, in order to get before hand a little acquainted with us. There are many among them, who would willingly be more free and open with us, were it not for the solemn oath they must all take before their departure, but much more for the fear of being betray'd by others, since by virtue of the same oath, they are oblig'd all, and every one of them, to have a strict and watchful eye, not only over the Dutch, but also over the conduct of each other, particularly with regard to the Dutch.

Another essential branch of the necessary preparations for our journey, is the hiring of Horses and Porters, for us and our baggage. This is the chief Interpreter's business, as keepers of our purse, who is also appointed to take care, that whatever is wanted during the whole journey, be provided for. 'Tis he likewise, that gives orders to keep every thing in readiness to march, the minute the Bugjo, as commander in chief, is pleas'd to set out.

Two days before our departure from Nagasaki, every one must deliver his cloak bag and portmantle to proper people, to be bound up, so that in an instant they may be tied to the Horses, and again untied. This is not done after our European manner, but after a particular one of their own, which deserves to be here describ'd.

A plain wooden saddle, not unlike the packsaddles of the Swedish Post-horses, is girded on the Horse with a poitral, or breast leather, and crupper. Two latchets are laid upon the saddle, which hang down on both sides of the Horse, in order to their being conveniently tied about two portmantles, which are put on each side, in that scituation, which is thought the most proper to keep them in a due ballance. For when once tied together they are barely laid on the Horse's back, without any other thong or latchet to tie them faster, either to the saddle, or to the Horse. However, to fasten them in some measure, a small long box, or trunk, call'd by the Japanese Adofski is laid over both portmantles upon the Horse's back, and tied fast to the saddle with thongs; over the whole is spread the travellers covering and bedding, which are tied fast to the Adofski and side trunks, with broad lin'd sashes, the middle cavity between the two trunks, fill'd up with some soft stuff, is the traveller's seat, where he sits, as it were upon a flat table, otherwise comodiously enough, and either cross leg'd, or with his legs extended hanging down by the Horse's neck, as he pleases or finds it most convenient. Particular care must be taken to sit right in the middle, and not to lean too much on either side, which would either make the Horse fall, or else the side trunks and rider. In going up and down hills the footmen and stable grooms hold the two side trunks fast, for fear of such an accident. [398]    The traveller mounts the horse, and alights again, not on one side as we Europeans do, but by the horse's breast, which is very troublesome for stiff legs. The Horses are unsaddled and unladen in an instant. For having taken the bedcloths away, which they do first of all, they need but untie a latchet, or two, which they are very dextrous at, and the whole baggage falls down at once. The latchets, thongs, and girths, made use of for these several purposes are broad, and strong, made of cotton, and withal very neatly work'd, with small oblong, cylindrical pieces of wood at both ends, which are of great use to strain the latchets, and to tie things hard. (Fig. 92)

The Saddle (Fig. 93) is made ot wood, very plain, with a cushion underneath, and a caparison behind, lying upon the horse's back, with the traveller's mark, or arms, stitch'd upon it. Another piece of course cloth hangs down on each side, as a safeguard to the horse, to keep it from being daub'd with dirt. These two pieces are tied together loosely under the horse's belly. The head is cover'd with a net-work of small but strong strings, to defend it, and particularly the eyes, from flies, which are very troublesome to them. The neck, breast, and other parts are hung with small bells.

The side-trunks, or portmantles, which are fill'd only with light stuff, and sometimes only with straw, are a sort of a square trunk, made of stiff horseleather, about five spans long, three broad, and three deep. The cover is made likewise of leather, somewhat larger, and so deep, as to cover the lower part down to the bottom. Tho' they hold out rain very well, yet for a greater security they are wrapt up in mats, with strong ropes tied about them, for which reason, and because it requires some time to pack them up, they are seldom unpack'd till you are come to the journeyvs end, and the things, which are the most wanted upon the road, are kept in the Adofski.

The Adofski, is a small thin trunk, or case, about six spans in length, one broad and one deep. It contains one single drawer, much of the same length, breadth, and depth. It hath a little door, or opening on one side, which can be lock'd up, and by which you can come conveniently at the drawer, without untying the Adofski. What things are daily wanted upon the road, must be kept in this trunk. It serves likewise to fasten the two portmantles, or side-trunks, which would otherwise require a stick. It is made of thick strong grey paper, and further to secure it against all accidents of a long voyage, blew strings are ty'd about it in form of a net, very neatly.

To compleat our traveller's equipage, some other things are requisite, which are commonly ty'd to the portmantles. Such are    [399]    

A string with Senni, or Puties, a brass money with a hole in the middle, they being more proper to buy what necessaries are wanted on the road, than silver-money, which must be weigh'd. People that travel on horseback, tie this string behind them to one of the sashes of their seats. Foot-travellers carry it in a basket upon their back.

A lanthorn of varnish'd and folded paper, with the possessor's arms painted upon its middle. This is carried before travellers by their footmen upon their shoulder, in travelling by night. It is ty'd behind one of the portmantles, put up in a net, or bag, which again hath the possessor's arms, or marks printed upon it, as have in general the cloaths and all other moveables, travellers of all ranks and qualities carry along with them upon their journies.

A brush made of horse's hairs, or black cock feathers, to dust your seat and cloaths. It is put behind your seat on one side, more for shew, than use.

A water-pail, which is put on the other side of the seat, opposite to the brush, or any where else.

Shoes, or slippers, for horses and footmen. These are twisted of straw, with ropes, likewise of straw, hanging down from them, whereby they are tied about the horses feet, instead of our European Iron horseshoes, which are not us'd in this country. They are soon worn out in stony slippery roads, and must be often chang'd for new ones. IFor this purpose, the men that look after the horses, always carry a competent stock along with them, ty'd to the portmantles, tho' they are to be met with in every villacre, and even offerd them to sale by poor children begging along the road. Hence it may be said, that this country hath more farriers, than perhaps any other, tho' in fact it hath none at all.

I must beg leave to observe, that besides the several things hitherto mention'd, which travellers usually carry along with them in their journies, I had for my own private use a very large Javan box, which I had brought with me from Batavia. In this box I privately kept a large mariner's compass, in order to measure the directions of the roads, mountains, and coasts, but openly, and exposed to every body's view, was an inkhorn, and I usually fill'd it with plants, fiowers, and branches of trees which I figur'd and described, (nay under this pretext, whatever occur'd to me remarkable:) Doing this, as I did it free and unhindred, to every bodies knowledge, I should be wrongly accus'd to have done any thing which might have proved disadvantageous to the company's trade in this country, or to have thereby thrown any ill suspicion upon our conduct from so jealous and circumspect a nation Nay, far from it, I must own, that from the very first day of our setting out, till our return to Nagasaki, all the Japanese companions of our voyage, and particularly the Bugjo, or commander in chief, were extreamly forward to communicate to me, what uncommon plants they met with,    [ 400]    together with their true names, characters and uses which they diligently enquired into among the natives. The Japanese a very reasonable and sensible People, and themselves great lovers of plants, look upon Botany, as a study both useful and innocent, which pursuant to the very dictates of reason and the law of nature, ought to be encourag'd by every body. Thus much I know by my orvn experience, that of all the nations I saw and convers'd with in my long and tedious travels, those the least favour'd botanical learning, who ought to have encourag'd it most. Upon my return to Nagasaki, Tonnemon, secretary and chief counsellor to the Governors, being once at Desima, sent for me, and made me by the chief Interpreter Siukobe, the following compliment: That he had heard with great pleasure from Asagina Sindaanosin, our late Bugio, how agreeably I had spent my time, and what diversion I had taken upon our Journey in that excellent and most commendable study of Botany, whereof he, Tonnemon, himself, was a great lover and encourager. But I must confess likewise, that at the beginning of our journey, I took what pains, and tried what means I could to procure the friendship and assistance of my fellow travellers, obliging some with a submissive humble conduct, and ready assistance, as to physic and physical advice, cthers with secret rewards for the very meanest services and favours, I receiv'd from them.

A traveller must not forget to provide himself with a large cloak, against rainy weather. This is made of double varnish'd oil'd paper, and withal so very large and wide, that it covers and shelters at once man, horse and baggage. It seems the Japanese have learnt the use of it, together with the name Kappa, from the Portuguese. Foot travellers wear it in rainy weather, instead of cloaks or coats of the same stuff.

To keep off the heat of the Sun travellers must be provided with a large hat, which is made of split bambous, or straw, very neatly and artfully twisted, in form of an extended Sombreiro, or Umbrello. It is tied under the chin with broad silk bands lin'd with cotton. It is transparent and exceedingly light, and yet, if once wet, will let no rain come through. Not only the men wear such hats upon their journies, but also the women in cities and villages, at all times, and in all weather, and it gives them no disagreeable look.

 The Japanese upon their journies wear very wide breeches, tapering towards the end, to cover the legs, and slit on both sides to put in the ends of their large long gowns, which would otherwise be troublesome to them in walking or riding. Some wear a short coat or cloak over the breeches. Some instead of stockings tie a broad ribbon about their legs. Ordinary servants, chiefly Norimonmen and pikebearers, wear no breeches at all, and for expeditions sake tack their gowns quite up to their belt, exposing their back and privy parts naked to every bodies view, which they say, they have no reason at all to be asham'd of.    [ 401]     

The Japanese of both sexes never go abroad without fans, as we Europeans seldom do without gloves. Upon their journeys they make use of a fan, which hath the roads printed upon it, and tells them how many miles they are to travel, what inns they are to go to, and what price victuals are at. Some instead of such a fan make use of a road book, which are offer'd them to sale by numbers of poor children begging along the road. The Dutch are not permitted, at least publickly, to buy any of these fans or road books.

After this manner travellers equip themselves for their journies in this country. A Japanese on horseback, tuck'd up after this fashion, makes a very odd comical figure at a distance. For besides that they are generally short siz'd and thick, their large hat, wide breeches and cloaks, together with their sitting cross legg'd, make them appear broader than long. Upon the road they ride one by one. Merchants have their horses, with the heavy baggage, pack'd up in two or three trunks or bales, led before them. They follow sitting on horseback after the manner above describ'd. As to the bridle, the traveller hath nothing to do with that, the horse being led by it by one of his Footmen, who walks at the horse's right side next by the head, and together with his companions, sings some merry song or other, to divert themselves, and to animate their horses.

The Japanese look upon our European way of sitting on horseback, and holding the bridle one self, as warlike, and properly becoming a soldier. For this very reason they seldom or never use it in their journies. It is more frequent among people of quality in cities, when they go a visiting one another. But even then the rider (who makes but a sorry appearance, when sitting after our manner,) holds the bridle meerly for form, the horse being nevertheless led by one, and sometimes two footmen, who walk on each side of the head, holding it by the bit. The saddling of their horses differs but little from ours. Their saddles come nearer our German saddles, than those of any Asiatic Nation. The stirrup-leathers, or Gam bados, are very short. A broad round leather hangs down on both sides, after the fashion of the Tartars, for to defend the leCgs. The stirrup is made of Iron, or Sowaas, and withal very thick and heavy, not unlike the sole of a foot, and open on one side, for the rider to get his foot lose with ease in case of a fall. The stirrups are commonly of an exceeding neat workmanship, and inhid with silver. The reins are not of leather, as ours, but of silk, and fastennd to the bit. Not to mention at present some other ornaments.

Besides going on horseback, there is another more stately and expensive way of travelling in this country, and that is to be carried in Norimons and Cangos, or particular sorts of chairs, or litters. The same is usual likewise in cities. People of quality are carried about after this manner for state, others for ease and convenience. There    [ 402]    is a wide difference between the litters, men of quality go in, and those of ordinary people. The former are sumptuous and magnificent, according to every one's ranlQ and riches. The latter are plain and simple. The former are commonly call'd Norimons, the latter Cangos. The vulgar (in all nations master of the language) have call'd them by two diferent names, tho' in fact they are but one thing. Norimon signifies, properly speaking, a thing to sit in, Cangos, a basket, or dosser. Both sorts rise thro' such a variety of degrees, from the lowest to the highest, from the plainest to the most curious, that a fine Canaos is scarce to be distinguish'd from a plain and simple Norimon, but by its pole. The pole of a Cangos is plain, massy, all of one piece, and smaller than that of a Norimon, which is large, curiously adorn'd, and hollow The pole of a Norimon is made up of four thin boardsn neatly join'd together in form Nof a wide arch, and much lighter than it appears to be. The bigness and length of these poles hath been determin'd by the political laws of the Empire, proportionable to every onexs quality. Princes and great Lords shew their rank and nobility, amongst other things particularly, by the length and largeness of the poles o their Norimons. People, who fancy themselves to be of greater quality, than they really are, are apt now and then to get the poles of their Norimons or Cangos made larger, than they ought to have them. But then also, they are liable to be oblig'd by the magistrates, if they come to know of it, to reduce them to their former size, with a severe reprimand, if not a considerable fine, into the bargain. This regulation however doth not concern the women, for they may, if they please, make use of larger poles, than otherwise their own and their husbands quality would entitle them to. The Norimon itself is a small room, of an oblong square figure, big enough for one person conveniently to sit or he in, curiously twisted of fine thin split Bambous, sometimes japan'd and finely painted, with a small folding-door on each side, sometimes a small window before and behind. Sometimes it is fitted up for the conveniency of sleeping in it. It ends in a small roof, which in rainy weather is cover'd with a covering of varnish'd paper. It is carried by two, four, eight or more men, according to the quality of the person in it, who, if he be a Prince, or Lord of a Province, they carry the pole on the palms of their hands, otherwise they lay it upon their shoulders. All these Norimon-men are clad in the same livery, with the coat of arms, or mark of their masters. They are every now and then relievid by others, who in the mean time walk by the Noimons side. But of this more in another place. The Cangos are not near so fine, nor so well attended. They are much of the same figure, but smaller, with a square, solid, sometimes with a round pole, which is either fasten'd to the upper part of the roof, or put thro' it underneath. The Cangos commonly made use of for travelling, chiefiy for carrying    [ 403]    people over mountains, are very poor and plain, and withal so small, that one cannot sit in them without very great inconveniency, bowing his head downward, and laying the legs across; for they are not unlike a basket with a round bottom, and flat roof, which one reaches with his head. In such Cangos we are carried over the rocks and mountains, which are not easily to be pass'd on horseback. Three Men are appointed for every Cango, who indeed, for the heaviness of their burden, have enough to do.

 

Chap. II. A general Description of the Way by Water and Land, from Nagasaki to Jedo, the Emperor's Residence.

Any Centuries ago the Empire of Japan hath been divided into Seven great Tracts of Land, as I have shewn at large in the fifth chapter of the first book, wherein I laid down a general Geographical Description of it. To make travelling easy and convenient, every one of these tracts is bound by a highway, and because in success of time they have been again sub-divided into several Provinces, so there are particular ways leading to and from every one of these Provinces, and all ending into the great highway, as small rivers loose themselves into great ones. They borrow'd their names from that tract, or province, to which they lead. But of this more in another place.

These highways are so broad and large, that two companies, tho' never so great, can conveniently and without hindrance, pass by one another. In this case that company, which according to their way of speaking, goes up, that is, to Miaco, takes the left side of the way, and that which comes from Miaco, the right. All the highways are divided, for the instruction and satisfaction of travellers, into measur'd miles, which are all mark'd, and begin from the great bridge at Jedo, as the common centre of all highways. This bridge is by way of preeminence call'd S7iponbas, that is, the Bridge of Japan. By this means a traveller, in whatever part of the Empire he be, may know at any time, how many Japanese miles it is from thence to Jedo, the Imperial residence. The miles are marked by two small hills, thrown up one on each side of the way, opposite one to another, and planted at the top with one or more trees.    [ 404]     

At the end of every tract, province, or smaller district, e a wooden, or stone-post, or pillar, is set up in the highway, ti with characters upon it, shewing what provinces, or lands they are, which there bound upon one another, and to whom they belong.

The like posts, or pillars, are erected at the entry of sideways, which turn off from the great highway, likewise with characters upon them, shewlng what province, or dominion they lead to, and how many leagues the next remarkable place is from thence.

In our journey to court we pass through two of these chief highways, and go by water from one to the other, so that our whole journey is divided into three parts. In the first place we set out from Nagasaki, to go by land across the Island Kiusju, to the town of Kokura, where we arrive in five days time. From Kokura we pass the streights in small boats going over to Simonoseki, which is about two leagues off where we find our abovemention'd barge riding at anchor and waiting our arrival, this harbour being very convenient and secure. The way from Nagasaki to Kokura, is call'd by the Japanese Saikaido, which is as much as to say, the Western grounds way. At Simonoseki we go on board our barge to proceed from thence to Osacca, where we arrive in eight days, more or less, according as the wind proves favourable or contrary; sometimes we go no farther with our barge, than Fiogo, because of the shallowness and unsafe riding at anchor in the harbour of Osacca. Osacca, is a city very famous for the extent of its commerce, and the wealth of its Inhabitants. It lies about thirteen Japanese water leagues from Fiogo, which we make in small boats, leaving our large barge at that place to wait our return. From Osacca we go again by land, over the continent of the great Island Nipon, so far as Jedo, the Emperor's residence, where we arrive in about fourteen days or more. The way from Osacca to Jedo is by the Japanese call'd Tookaido, that is, the Sea, or coastway. We stay at Jedo about twenty days, or upwards, and having had our audience of his Imperial Majesty, and paid our respects to some of his chief ministers and great favourites, we return to Nagasaki the same way, compleating our whole journey in about three months time.

Our journey from Nagasaki to Jedo is at least of three hundred and twenty three Japanese Leagues of different length. From Nagasalii to Kokura they compute fifty three Leagues and a half, from Kokura to Osacca, a hundred thirty six at least, and a hundred forty six at farthest, and from Osacca to Jedo, a hundred thirty three Leagues and thirteen Tsjo, so that the whole comes to three hundred and twenty three at least, and at farthest three hundred and thirty three Japanese Leagues, which may be computed equal to about two hundred German miles. The Japanese Leagues, or miles are not equally long.

The Land leagues upon the Island Kiusiu, and in the province Isje, are of fifty Tsjo each, the other common leagues only of thirty six. Tsjo, is the    [ 405]    measure of the length of a street. Upon good roads I found the former long leagues to be of a good hours riding, the latter and shorter only of three quarters of an hour. The Tsjo contains sixty Kin, or Mats, according to their way of measuring, or about as many European fathoms, so that the great leagues contain three thousand, and the small ones two thousand one hundred and sixty Kins, or fathoms each. As to their water leagues, two and a half make a German mile, without their country, but within it, as they express thernselves, that is, between and about their Islands, they measure them according to the course of the coasts, without any certainty at all, so that I am not well able to determine what proportion they bear to the land leagues, or German miles; only I found in general, that they are shorter than the land leagues.

In most parts of Saikaido, and every where upon Tokaido, between the towns and villages there is a streight row of firrs planted on each side of the road, which by their agreeable shade make the Journey both pleasant and convenient. The ground is kept clean and neat, convenient ditches and outlets are contriv'd to carry the rain water off towards low fields, and strong dikes are cast up to keep off that, which comes down from higher places. This nlakes the road at all times good and pleasant, unless it be just rainy weather and the ground slimy. The neighbouring villages must jointls keep them in repair, and take care, that they be swept and clean'd every day. People of great quality, in their Journey's, cause the road to be swept with brooms, just before they pass it; and there lie heaps of sand in readiness at due distances (which are brought thither some days before) to be spread over the road in order to dry it in case it should rain upon their arrival. The Lords of the several Provinces, and the Princes of the Imperial blood in their Journies, find at every two or three leagues distance, huts of green leavid branches erected for them, with a private apartment, where they may step in for their pleasures, or necessities. The Inspectors for repairing the highway, are at no great trouble to get people to clean them; for whatever makes the roads dirty and nasty, is of some use to the neighbouring country people, so that they rather strive, who should first carry it away. The pine-nuts, branches and leaves, which fall down daily from the firrs, are gather'd for fewel, and to supply the want of wood, which is very scarce in some places. Nor doth horses dung lie long upon the ground but it is soon taken up by poor country children and serves to manure the fields. For the same reason care is taken, that the filth of travellers be not lost, and there are in several places, near country people's houses, or in their fields, houses of office built for them to do their needs. Old shoes of horses and men, which are thrown away as useless, are gather'd in the same houses, and burnt to ashes, along with the filth, for common dung,    [ 406]    which they manure all their fields withal. Provisions of this nasty composition are kept in large tubs, or tuns, which are buried even with the ground, in their villages and fields, and being not cover'd, afford full as ungrateful and putrid a smell of radishes (which is the common food of country people) to tender noses, as the neatness and beauty of the road is agreeable to the eyes.

 In several parts of the country the roads go over hills and mountains, which are sometimes so steep and high, that travellers are necessitated to get themselves carried over them in Cangos, such as I have describ'd in the preceding chapter, because they cannot without great difficulty and danger pass them on horseback. But even this part of the road, which may be call'd bad in comparison to others, is green and pleasant, for the abundance of springs of clear water and verdant bushes, and this all the year round, but particularly in the spring, when the flowerbearing trees and shrubs, as the Fusi, Tsubacki, Satsuki, Utsugi, Temariqua, being then in their full blossom, prove such an additional beauty, affording to the eye so curious a view, and filling the nose with so agreeable a scent, as one should scarce meet with any where else.

Several of the Rivers we are to cross over, chiefly upon Tookaido, run with so impetuous a rapidity towards the sea, that they will bear no bridge nor boat, and this by reason partly of the neighbouring snow-mountains, where they arise, partly of the frequent great rains, which will swell them to such a degree, as to make them overflow their banks. These must be forded thro' in shallow places. Men, horses, and baggage, are deliver'd up to the care of certain people, bred up to this business, who are we acquainted with the bed of the river, and the places which are the most proper for fording. These people, as they are made answerable for their passenger's lives, and all accidents that might befal them in the passage, exert all their strength, care and dexterity to support them with their arms, against the impetuosity of the river, and the stones rolling down from the mountains, where the rivers arise. Norimons are carried over by the same people upon their arms.

The chief of these rivers is the formidable Ojingawa, which separates the two Provinces Tootomi and Surunga. The passage of this river is what all travellers are very apprehensive of, not only for its uncommon rapidity and swiftness, but because sometimes, chiefly after rains, it swells so high, that they are necessitated to stay several days on either bank, till the fall of the water makes it passable, or till they will venture the passage, and desire to be set over at their own peril. The rivers Fusi Jedagawa, and Abikawa, in the last mention'd Province, are of the like nature, but not so much dreaded.

There are many other shallow and rapid rivers, but F because they are not near so broad as those abovemention'd, nor altogether so impetuous, passengers are ferried over them in boats, which are built after a    [ 407]    particular fashion proper for such a passage, with flat thin bottoms, which will give way, so that if they run aground, or upon some great stone, they may easily, and without any danger slide over it and get off again. The chief of these are, the river Tenriu in the Province Tootomi; Fudsikawa, in the Province Suruga; Benrju, in the Province Musasi, and the river Askagawa, which is particularly remarkable, for that its bed continually alters, for which reason inconstant people are compar'd to it in Proverb.

Strong broad bridges are laid over all other rivers, which do not run with so much rapidity, nor alter their beds These bridges are built of cedar-wood, and very curiously kept in constant repair, so that they look at all times, as if they had been but lately finish'd. They are railtd on both sides. The perpendicular rails stand at about a fathom's distance from each other, and there are two upon every arch, if they be not of a larger size, for the commodious passage of boats and ships under the bridge. As one may travel all over Japan without paying any taxes or customs, so likewise they know nothing Of any money to be paid by way of a toll for the repair of highways and bridges. Only in some places the custom is, in wintertime, to give the bridge-keeper, who is to look after the bridge, a Senni, or farthing for his trouble

The most famous bridges in Japan, and the most remarkable for their structure and largeness are, 1. Setanofas, is the bridge over the river Jedogawa, where it comes out of a large fresh water lake, in the Province Oomi. This bridge is supported, in the middle, by a small Island, and consequently consists of two parts, the first whereof hath 36 Kins, or fathoms, in length, and the second 96. This river, which runs thro' Osacca, and then looses itself into the sea, hath several other bridges laid over it, some whereof are still larger. There is one for instance, near the small town of Udsi, two near Fusimi, two near Jodo and seven in the city of Osacca, not to mention some smaller ones, which are laid over its arms. This river is also navigable for small boats, but they do not come up higher than Udsi. 2. Jafagibas, near the city Okasacki, in the Province Mikawa, is 208 fathoms long. This river is also navigable for small boats, which from the sea-side come up so far as this bridge. 3. Josidanobas, near the city Josida, in the same province, is 120 Kins, or fathoms long. In high-water even large barges can come up this river as far as this city. 4. Rokugonofas, in the Province Musasi, was 109 Kins long. This bridge was by the impetuosity of the river, much swell'd by great rains, wash'd away in 1687, and in all likelihood will never be rebuilt, because the river being very near the residence of the Emperor, its security seems to require, that there be no bridge over it. 5. Niponbas, that is, the Bridge of Japan, so call'd by way of preeminence. It lies just opposite to the Imperial palace, in the middle of the capital city of Jedo,    [ 408]    and is particularly famous, because the leagues, which all the high ways in Japan are divided into, begin to be computed from thence, and are continued to the very extremities of this mighty and powerful Empire. All the bridges are laid over the banks of the river at least two fathoms on each side, and open with their rails like two wings. For this reason four Kins, or fathoms must be added to the length abovemention'd.

That part of our Journey to court, which we are to make by water, is made along the coasts of the great 4 Island Nipon, which we have on our left, steering our course so, as to continue always in sight of land, not above one or two leagues off it at farthest, that in case of a storm arising it should not be out of our power forthwith to put into some harbour or other. Coming out of the streights of Simonoseki, we continue for some time in sight of the South Eastern coasts of the Island Kiusju, which we went over by land, going from Nagasaki to Kokura. Having left the coasts of Kiusiu, we come in sight of those of the Island Tsikoku, we then make the Island Awadsi, and steering between this Island on our right, and the main continent of the Province Idsumi, on our left, we at last put into the harbour of Osacca, and so end that part of our Journey to Court, which must be made by sea. All these coasts are very much frequented, not only by the Princes and Lords of the Empire, with their retinues, travelling to and from Court, but likewise by the merchants of the country, going from one province to another, to traffick, to dispose of their goods and to buy others, so that one may chance, on some days, to see upwards of an hundred ships under sail. The coasts hereabouts are rocky and mountainous, and many of the mountains cultivated up to their very tops; otherwise they are well inhabited, and stock'd with villages, castles and small towns. There are very good harbours in several places, where ships put in at night, to lie at anchor, commonly upon good clean ground in four to eight fathoms.

In this voyage we pass by innumerable small Islands, particularly the streights between Tsikoko and Nipon are full of them. They are all mountainous, and for the most part barren and uncultivated rocks. Some few have a tolerable good soil, and sweet water. These are inhabited) and the mountains, though never so steep, cultivated up to their tops. The mountains of such Islands, as are inhabited, (as also of the main continent of Nipon) have several rows of firs planted for ornament's sake along their ridge at top, which makes them look at a distance, as if they were fringed, and withal affords a very curious prospect. There is hardly an Island, of the inhabited ones, but what hath a convenient harbour, with good anchoring ground, where ships may lie safe. ftll Japanese pilots know this very well, and will sometimes come to an anchor upon very slight pretences. Nor indeed are they much to be    [ 409]    blamed for an over carefulness, or too great a circumspection, which some would be apt to call fear and cowardize. For it must be consider'd, that by the laws of the Empire, their ships must not be built strong enough to bear the shocks and tossing of huge raging waves: the cabin itself, and the goods on board, are scarce secure from rain and sea-water, before they drop anchor and take down the mast. The deck is built so loose, that it will let the water run through, before the mast hath been taken down, and the ship cover'd, partly with mats, partly with the sails. The stern is laid quite open, and if the sea runs high, the waves will beat in on all sides. In short the whole structure is so weak and thin, that a storm approaching, unless anchor be forthwith cast, the sails taken in, and the mast let down, it is in danger every moment to be shatter'd to pieces and sunk.

 

Chap. III. A general Description of the several Edifices, and Buildings, publick and private, we met with along the Road.

In our Journey to Court we met with the following structurcs and buildings: all sorts of ships and barges in our voyage by sea, and in our Journey by land, many sacred and civil, publick and private buildings, as for instance; Castles, cities, boroughs, villages, hamlets, posthouses, inns, eating houses, publick places for proclamations and orders from the Government, places of executions, temples, convents, idols and relicks, of all which I propose to give a general description in this and the following chapter.

All the ships and boats, we met with in our voyage by s Sea, were built of firr or cedar-wood, both which grow in great plenty in the Country. They are of a different structure, according to the purposes, and the waters they are built for. The Pleasure boats, which make up one I sort, and are made use of only for going up and falling down rivers, or to cross small bays, are again widely different in their structure, according to the possessor's fancy. Commonly they are built for rowing. The first and lowermost deck is flat and low. Another more lofty with open windows stands upon it, and this may be by folding skreens divided as they please into several partitions. The roof, and several parts of the Ship, are curiously adorn'd with variety of flags and other ornaments. The figures of these boats will give the reader a better idea, than could be expected from the most accurate description. (Figs.95, 96.)    [ 410]     

The merchant ships, which venture out at sea, though 2 not very far from the coasts, and serve for the transport of men and goods, from one Island, or Province, to another, are the largest naval buildings of this Country.

They deserve a more accurate description, as by their means trade and commerce is carried on with all parts of the Empire. They are commonly fourteen fathom long, and four fathom broad, built for sailing, as well as rowing; they run tapering from the middle towards the stem; both ends of the keel stand out of the water considerably. The body of the ship is not built roundish, as our European ones, but that part which stands below the surface of the water, runs almost in a streight line towards the keel. The stern is broad and flat, with a wide opening in the middle, which reaches down almost to the bottom of the ship, and lays open all the inside to the Eye. This opening was originally contriv'd for the easier management of the rudder, but since the Emperor hath taken the resolution to shut up his dominions to all foreigners, orders were issued at the same time, that no ship should be built without such an opening, and this in order to prevent his subjects from attempting to venture out to the main sea, on any voyage whatever. The deck is somewhat rais'd towards the stern. It is broader on the sides where it is flat and streight. It consists only of dealboards laid loose, without any thing to fasten them together. It rises but little above the surface of the water, when the ship hath its full lading. It is almost cover'd with a sort of a Cabin, fuIl a manns height, only a small part of it towards the stem being left empty, for to lay up the anchor and other tackle. This cabin jets out of the ship about two foot on each side, alld there are folding-windows round it, which may be open'd or shut, as pleasure or occasion require. In the furthermost part are the cabins) or rooms, for passengers, separate from each other by folding-skreens and doors, with the floors cover'd with fine neat mats. The furthermost cabin is always reckon'd the best, and for this reason assign'd to the chief passenger. The roof, or upper deck, is flattish, and made of neat boards curiously join'd together. Inrainyweatherthemast is let down upon the upper deck, and the sail extended over it for sailors, and the people employ'd in the shipas service, to take shelter under it, and to sleep at night Sometimes, and the better to defend the upper deck, it is cover'd with common straw-mats, which for this purpose lie there at hand. The ship hath but one sail, made of hemp, and withal very large. She hath also but one mast, standing up about a fathom behind her middle towards the stern. This mast, which is of the same length with the ship, is wound up by pulleys, and again let down upon deck, when the ship comes to an anchor. (Figs. 97, 98.) The anchors are of Iron, and the cables twisted of straw, and stronger than one would imagine. Ships of this burden have commonly 30 or4o hands a piece to row them, if the wind fails. The watermen's    [ 411]    benches are towards the stern. They row according to the air of a song, or the tune of some words, or other noise, which serves at the same time to direct and regulate their work, and to encourage one another. They do not row after our European manner, extending their Oars streight forwards, and cutting just the surface of the water, but let them fall down into the water almost perpendicularly, and then lift them up again. This way of rowing, not only answers all the ends of the other, but is done with less trouble, and seems to be much more advantageous, considerin^, either the narrowness of the passage, ships sometimes chance to have, when they pass either through straights, or by one another, or that the benches of the rowers are rais'd considerably above the surface of the water. Their oars are besides made in a particular manner, calculated for this way of rowing, being not all streight, like our European oars, but somewhat bent, with a moveable joint in the middle, which yielding to the violent pression of the water, facilitates the taking of them up. The timberpieces and boards are fasten'd together in their joints and extremities, with hooks and bands of copper. The stem is adorn'd with a knot of fringes made of thin long black strings. Men of quality, in their voyages, have their cabin hung all about with cloth, whereupon is stitch'd their coats of arms. Their pike of state, as the badge of their authority, is put up upon the stern on one side of the rudder. On the other side there is a weather-flag for the use of the Pilot. In small ships, as soon as they come to an anchor, the rudder is wound up, and put ashore, so that one may pass thro' the opening of the stern, as thro' a back door, and walking over the rudder, as over a bridge, get ashore. (Figs. 97, 98.) Thus much of the ships. I proceed now to other structures and buildings, travellers meet with in their Journies by land.

It may be observ'd in general, that all the buildings of this country, either Ecchesiastical or Civil, publick or private, are by no means to be compar'd to ours in Europe, neither in largeness nor magnificence they being commonly low and built of wood. By virtue of the laws of the Empire the houses of private persons are not to exceed six Kins, or fathoms, in height. Nay, 'tis but seldom they build their houses so high, unless they design them for ware-houses. Even the palaces of the Dairi, or Ecclesiastical hereditary Emperor, those of the Secular Monarch, and of all the princes and lords of the Empire, are not above one story high. And although there be many common houses, chiefly in towns, of two stories, yet the upper story, if otherwise it deserves that name, is generally very low, unfit to be inhabited, and good for little else, but to lay up some of the least necessary houshold goods, it being often without a cieling, or any other cover but the bare roof. The reason of their building their houses so    [ 412]    very low, is the frequency of earthquakes this country is subject to, and which prove much more fatal to lofty and massy buildings of stone, than to low and small houses of wood. If the houses of the Japanese be not so large, lofty, or so substantially built as ours, they are on the other hand greatly to be admired for their uncommon neatness and cleanliness, and curious furniture. I could not help taking notice, that their furniture and the several ornaments of their apartments, make a far more graceful and handsome appearance in rooms of a small compass, than they would do in large lofty halls. They have none, or but few, partition walls, to divide their rooms from each other, but instead of them make use of folding skreens made of colourJd or gilt paper, and laid into wooden frames, which they can put on, or remove, whenever they please, and by this means enlarge their rooms, or make them narrower, as it best suits their fancy, or conveniency. The floors are somewhat raised above the level of the street, and are all made of boards, neatly covernd with lin'd, well stuffed, fine mats, the borders whereof are curiously fring'd, embroider'd, or otherwise neatly adorn'd. Another law of the country imports, that all mats should be of the same size in all parts of the Empire, to wit, a Kin, or fathom long, and half a Kin broad. All the lower part of the house, the staircase leading up to the second story, if there be any, the doors, wmdows, posts and passages are curiously painted and varnished. The cielings are neatly cover'd with gilt, or silver colour'd paper, embellish'd with flowers, and the skreens in several rooms curiously painted. In short, there is not one corner in the whole house, but what looks handsome and pretty, and this the rather, since all their furniture being the produce of the country, may be bought at an easy rate. I must not forget to mention, that it is very healthful to 1ive in these houses, and that in this particular they are far beyond ours in Europe) because of their being built all of cedar wood, or firs, whereof there is a great plenty in the country, and because of the windows being gener ally contrived so, that upon opening of them, and upon removing the skreens, which separate the rooms, a free passage is left for the air to strike through the whole house. I took notice, that the roof, which is cover) ;1 with planks, or shingles of wood, rests upon thick, strong, heavy beams, as large as they can get them, and that the second story is generally built stronger and more substantial than the first. This they do by reason of the frequent Earthquakes, which happen in this country, because they observe, that in case of a violent shock, the pressure of the upper part of the house upon the lower, which is built much lighter, keeps the whole from being overthrown.

 The Castles of the Japanese Nobility are built, either on great rivers, or upon hills and rising grounds. They take in a vast deal of room, and consist commonly of three different fortresses, or enclosures, which either cover and defend, or if possible encompass one another. Every    [ 413]    enclosure is surrounded and defended by a clean deep ditch, and a thick strong wall built of stone, or earth, with strong gates. Guns they have none. The principal and innermost castle, or enclosure, is call'd, Fon Mas, that is, the true, or chief castle. It is the residence of the Prince or Lord, who is in possession of it, and as such it is distinguish'd from others, by a square, large, white tower, three or four stories high, with a small roof encompassing each story, like a crown or garland. In the second call'd Winmas, that is, the second castle, are lodged the gentlemen of the prince's bedchamber, his stewards. secretaries, and other chief officers, who are to give a more constant attendance about his person. The empty spaces are cultivated, and turn'd either into gardens, or sown with rice. The third and outwardmost is call'd SotoCamei, that is, the outwardmost defence, as also Ninnomas, that is, the third castle. It is the abode of a numerous train of soldiers, courtiers, domesticks, and other people, ever,v body being permitted to come into it. The white walls, bastions, gates, each of which hath two or more stories built over it, and above all the beautiful tower of the innermost castle, are extreamly pleasant to behold at a distance. There is commonly a place without the castle call'd Oo-teguts, that is, the great frontier mouth, design'd for a rendezvous and review of troops. Hence it appears, that considering war and sieges are carried on in this country without the use of great guns, these castles are well enouCh defended, and of sufficient strength to hold out a long siege. The proprietors are bound besides, to take particular care, that they be kept in constant repair. However, if there be any part thereof going to ruin, the same cannot be rebuilt, without the knowledge and express leave of the Emperor. Much less doth the Emperor suffer new ones to be built in any part of his dominions. The castles where the Princes, or Lords, reside, are commonly seated at the extremity of some large town, which encompasses them in the form of a half moon.

Most of the towns are very populous, and well built. The streets are generally speaking regular, running streight forward, and crossing each other at right angles, as if they had been laid out at one time, and according to one general ground-plot. The towns are not surrounded with walls and ditches. The two chief gates where people go in and out, are no better than the ordinar gates, which stand at the end of every street, and are shut at night. Sometimes, there is part of a wall built contiguous to them on each side, meerly for ornament's sake. In larger towns, where there is some Prince or other resides, these two gates are a little handsomer, and kept in better repair, and there is commonly a strong guard mounted there, all out of respect for the residing Prince. The rest of the town generally lies open to the fields, and is but seldom enclosed even with a common hedge, or ditch. The frontier towns of the imperial demesns, or crown lands, although they be not fortify'd with any great art, yet in those narrow passages which lead to them, and which cannot be well avoided, they are defended    [ 414]    with strong gates, where a good Imperial Inqui

sition guard is constantly mounted. In our journey to court I counted 33 towns and residences of Princes of the Empire, some whereof we passad thro', but saw others only at a distance. Common towns, and large villages or burroughs, I computed from 75 to 80, or upwards. Not to mention some large Palaces, inhabited only by sheriffs of counties, or surveyors of some tracts of land, as also some others built to lodge men of great quality, in their journies to and from court. I could not help admiring the' great number of shops we met with in all the cities, towns and villages, whole large streets being scarce any thing else but continued rows of shops on both sides, and I own, for my part, that I could not well conceive, how the whole country is able to furnish customers enough, only to make the proprietors get a livelihood, much less to enrich them.

The villages along the highways, in the great Island Nipon, are but thinly inhabited by country people and labourers, the far greater part of the inhabitants being made up by other people, who resort there to get their livelihood, either by selling some odd things to travellers, or by servile daily labour. Hence it is, that most villages consist only of one long street, bordering on each side of the highway, which is sometimes extended to such a lencth, as to reach the next village within a quarter of a mile, more or less. Hence likewise it is, that some villages have two names. For having been originally two villages, which by the gradual increase of the inhabitants and houses came to be join'd together, each part retain'd its former name, tho' by people not appriz'd of this distinction the name of either part is sometimes, by mistake, given to the whole village. I must here desire the reader to observe, that the names and words are not always written and pronounc'd after the same manner, it being not inconsistent with the beauty of the Japanese language to abbreviate some words, to alter some letters in others, Just as it pleases every one's fancy, or to add to some syllables, the letter n, which they do frequently for the sake of an easier and more agreeable pronounciation. Thus sometimes they write Fonda for Fon Tomida Mattira for Matzidira, fagawa for Takawa, Firangawa for Firakawa, Nangasaki for Nagasaki, and so on. I thought it necessary once for all to make this observation, and to entreat the reader, not to take it amiss if he meets with the same names differently written in different places.

The houses of country people and husband-men are so E small and poor, that a few lines will serve to give the reader a full idea of them. They consist of four low walls, cover'd with a thatch'd or shingled roof. In the back part of the house, the floor is somewhat rais'd above the level of the street, and there it is they place the hearth; the rest is cover'd with neat mats. Behind the street-door hangs a row of course ropes made of straw not to hinder people from coming in or going out, but to serve instead of a lattice-window, to    [ 415]    prevent such as are without, from looking in and observing what passes within doors. As to houshold goods they have but few. Many children and great poverty is generally what they are possess'd oS, and yet with some small provision of rice, plants and roots, they live content and happy.

Passing through cities and villages, and other inhabited f places, we always found upon one of the chief publick } streets a Fudanotsiusi, as they call it, being a small place encompass'd with grates, for the supreme will, as the usual way ot speakint is in this country, that is for the Imperial orders and proclamations. (Fig. 91.) 'Tis the Lord, or Governor, of every Province, that publishes them in his own name for the instruction of passengers. They are written, article by article, in large fair characters, upon a square table of a foot or two in length, standing upon a post at least two fathoms high. We saw several of these tables, as we travell'd along, of different dates, and upon different subjects. The chief, largest and oldest contains the edict against the Roman Catholick Religion, setting forth also proper orders relating to the inquisition, (which I have describ'd at large in the third Chapter of the preceding book) specifying what reward is to be given to any person or persons, that discover a christian, or a priest. The Lords or Governors of Provinces put up their own orders and edicts in the same place. This is the reason, why there are sometimes so many standing behind or near one another, that it is scarce possible to see and to read them all. Sometimes also there are pieces of money, in gold and silver, stuck or nail'd to some, which are to be given as a reward to any person or persons, that will discover any fact, person, or criminal therein mention'd. These grated proclamation-cases, are commonly placed, in great cities just at the entry, in villages and hamlets in the middle of the chief streets, where there is the greatest passage through, or in any other place, where they are the most likely to be taken notice of. Going along the road in such places as are not inhabited, there are some other orders and instructions for passengers put up in the like manner, but upon lower posts. lrhese come from the sheriffs, surveyors of the roads, and other inferior officers, and although the things therein order'd, or intimated, be generally very trifling, yet they may involve a transgressor, or negligent observer, into great troubles and expence.

Another remarkable thing we met with, as we travelled along, were the places of publick executions. These are easily known by crosses, posts, and other remains of former executions. They commonly lie without the cities, or villages, on the Westside. It is the common opinion, suppos'd to hold true in all Countries: the more laws the more offenders. As to the magistrates of this, it is no inconsiderable proof of their wisdom and circumspection, as well as the tenderness and love for    [ 416]    their people, that they made it their endeavour to put a stop even to all imaginable opportunities, which might tempt and induce people to commit crimes, by express and severe laws, which are so far from being not, or but slightly observid, that none but corporal punsshments, or an unavoidable death are known to attend the least transgression thereof. Hence it is, that in this heathen country fewer capital crimes are tried before the courts of justice, and less criminal blood shed by the hands of pubfick executioners, than perhaps in any part of christianity. So powerfully works the fear of an inevitable shameful death, upon the minds of a nation, otherwise so stubborn as the Japanese, and so regardless of their lives, that nothing else, but such an unbound strictness, would be able to keep them within due bounds of continence and virtue. 'Tis true indeed, Nagasaki cannot boast of that scarcity of executions. For besides, that this place hath been in a manner consecrated to cruelty and blood, by being made the common butchery of many thousand Japanese Christians who in the last persecution seal'd up their faith with their blood. There have not been since wanting criminals and frequent executions, particularly of those people, who contrary to the severe Imperial Edicts, cannot leave off carrying on a smugling trade with foreigners, and who alone, perhaps of the whole nation, seem to be more pleasad with this unlawful gain, than Sightned by the shameful punishment, which they must inevitably suffer, if caught in the fact, or betray'd to the Governors. But it is time to turn off our eyes from these unpleasing objects, and to proceed to consider others more agreeable.

Of all the religious buildings to be seen in this country, the Tira, that is, the Buds Temples, or Temples built to foreign Idols, with the adjoining convents, are doubtless the most remarkable, as being far superior to all others, by their stately height, curious roofs, and numberless other beautiful ornaments, which agreeably surprize and amaze the beholder. Such as are built within cities, or villages, stand commonly on rising grounds, and in the most conspicuous places. Others which are without, are built in the ascent of hills and mountains. All are most sweetly seated, a curious view of the adjacent country, a spring, or rivulet of clear water, and the neighbourhood of a wood, with pleasant walks being necessary qualifications of those spots of ground, these holy structures are to be built upon. For they say, that the Gods are extremely delighted with such high and pleasant places, and I make no doubt but that their Priests readily conde scend to be of the same opinion, they being the most proper for their own pleasures and diversion. All these Temples are built of the best Cedars and Firs, and adorn'd within with many carved Images. In the middle of the temple stands a fine altar, with one or more gilt Idols upon jit, and a beautiful candlestick, with sweet scented candles burning before it. The whole temple is so neatly and curiously adorn'd, that one would fancy himself transported into a Roman Catholick Church, did not the monstrous shape of the Idols, which are therein    [ 417]    worship'd, evince the contrary. They are not unlike the Pagods of the Siamites and Chinese, both in structure and ornaments, which it is not here the proper place to give a more accurate description of. The whole Empire is fuL of these Temples, and their Priests are without number. Only in and about Miaco they count 3 8 93 Temples, and 37093 Siukku, or Priests, to attend them.

 The sanctity of the Mija, or Temples sacred to the Idols, as of old worship'd in the country, requires also that they should be built in some eminent pEace, or at least at some distance from unclean common grounds. I have elsewhere observ'd, that they are attended only by Secular Persons. A neat broad walk turns in from the highway towards these temples. At the beginning of the walk is a stately and magnificent gate, built either of stone, or of wood, with a square table about a foot and a half high, on which the name of the God, to whom the temple is consecrated, is written or engraved in golden characters. (Fig. 74.) Of this magnificent entry olle may justly say, Parturiunt Montes. For if you come to the end of the walk, which is sometimes several hundred paces long, instead of a pompous magnificent building, you find nothing but a low mean structure of wood, often all hid amidst trees and bushes, with one single gratedwindow to look into it, and within either all empty, or adorn'd only with a looking-glass of metal, placed in the middle, and hung about with some bundles of straw, or cut white paper, tied to a long string in form of fringes, as a mark of the purity and sanctity of the place. The same white paper is also hung round the Tooris, and galleries adjoining to most of them. The most magnificent gates stand before the temples of Tensio Daisin, Fatzman, and that Cami, or God, whom particular places chuse to worship as their tutelar CWod, and him who takes a more particular care to protect and defend them. I need not enlarge upon this subject, having already and amply consider'd it in the second Chapter of the 3d Book, and likewise in the fourth Chapter of the 4th Book.

Other religious objects, travellers meet with along the roads, are the Fotoge, or foreign Idols of Stone, chiefly those of Amida, and Dsisoo, as also other monstrous Images and Idols, which we found upon the highways in several places, at the turning in of sideways, near bridges, convents, temples, and other buildings. They are set up partly as an ornament to the place, partly to remind travellers of the devotion and worship due to the Gods, and the paths of virtue and piety, which they ought to tread in. For this same purpose draughts of these Idols, printed upon entire or half sheets of paper, are pasted upon the gates of cities and villages, upon wooden posts, near bridges, upon the proclamation-cases above describ'd, and in several other places upon the highway, which stand the most exposed to the traveller's view Travellers however are not oblig'd to fall down before them, or to pay    [ 418]    them any other mark of worship and respect, than they are otherwise willing to do.

On the doors and houses of ordinary people (for men, of quality seldom suffer to have theirs thus disfigur'd), there is commonly pasted a sorry picture of one of their Lares, or House-Gods, printed upon one half sheet of paper. The most common is the blackhorn'd Giwon otherwise call'd Godsu Ten Oo, that is, according to the literal signification of the characters, this word is express'd by, the Ox-headed Prince of Heaven, whom they believe to have the power of keeping the family from distempers, and other unlucky accidents, particularly from the Sekbio, or Small-pox, which proves fatal to great numbers of their children. (Fig. 99.) Others fancy they thrive extreamly well, and live happy, under the protection of a countryman of Jeso, whose monstrous frightful picture they paste upon their doors, being hairy all over his body, and carrying a large sword with both hands, which they believe he makes use of to keep off, and as it were to parry all sorts of distempers and misfortunes, endeavouring to get into the house. On the fronts of new and pretty houses, I have sometimes seen Dragons, or Devil's heads painted with a wide open mouth, large teeth and fiery eyes. The Chinese and other Indian Wations, nay even the Mahometans in Arabia and Persia, have the same placed over the doors of their houses, by the frightful aspect of this monstrous figure, to keep off, as the latter say, the envious from disturbing the peace in families. Often also they put a branch of the Fanna Skimmi Tree over their doors, which is in like manner believ'd to bring good luck into their houses; or else Liverwort, which they fancy hath the particular vertue to keep off evil spirits; or some other plants or branches of trees. In villages they often place their indulgenceboxes, which they bring back from their Pilgrimage to Isje, over their doors, thinking also by this means, to bring happiness and prosperity upon their houses. Others past long pieces of paper to their doors, which the adherents of the several religions, sects and convents, are presented with by their clergy, for some small gratuity. There are odd unknown characters, and divers forms. of prayers, writ upon these papers, which the superstitious firmly believe, to have the infallible virtue of conjuring and keeping off all maner of misfortunes. Nay they hang up these very papers within doors, in several apartments of their houses. Many more Amulets of the like nature are pasted to their doors, such as are particularly directed against the plague, distempers, and particular misfortunes. There is also one directed against Poverty. Houses with this last mark must needs be very safe from thieves and house-breakers.    [ 419]

 

Chap. IV Of the Post-houses, Inns, Eating-houses, and Tea-booths.

To accommodate travellers, there is in all the chief villages and hamlets a Posthouse belonging to the Lord of the place, where at all times they may find a competent number of horses, porters, footmen, and what else they might be wanting to continue the journey in readiness, at certain settled prices. Horses, or men, which are either much fatigu'd by their journey, or were hir'd no further, may be exchang'd at these places. Travellers of all ranks and qualities, with their retinues, resort to these Posthouses, which are by the Japanese call'd Siuku, because of that conveniency of finding every thing ready they may have occasion for. They lie at one and a half to four miles distance from each other, but are generally speaking not so good, nor so well furnished upon Kiusju, in the way from Nagasaki to Kokura, as we found them upon the great Island Nipon, where we came to 56, going from Osacca to Jedo. The Post-houses, properly speaking, are not built for Innkeeping, but only for convenient stabling of horses, for which reason and in order to prevent the exchangint horses and men from being troublesome to the publick streets, there is a spacious court belongs to each. Clerks and book-keepers there are enough, who keep accounts, in their masteres name, of all the daily occurrences. The price of all such things, as are to be hirad at these Post-houses, is settled in all parts of the Empire, not only according to the distance of places from each other, but with due regard had to the goodness or badness of the roads, to the price of victuals or forrage, and the like. One way with another, a Norikaki, that ist a horse to ride on, with two portmantles and an Adofski. or trunk, may be had for 33 Senni a Mile. A Karassiri, that is a horse, which is only saddled, and hath neither men nor baggage to carry, will cost 25 Senni; Porters, and Cango's-Men, 19 Senni, and so on. Messengers are waiting day and night at all these Post-houses, in order to carry the letters, edicts, proclamations, &c. of the Emperor, and the Princes of the Empire, which they take up the rnoment they are deliver'd at the Post-house, and carry them to the next with all speed. They are kept in a small black varnish'd box, bearing the coat of arms of the Emperor, or Prince who sent them, and the messenger carries them upon his shoulder ty'd to a small staff. There are always two of these messengers run together, that in case any accident should befal either of them upon the road, the other may take his place, and deliver the box at the next Siuku. All    [ 420]    travellers whatsoever, even the Princes of the Empire, and their retinues, must retire out of the way, and give a free passage to those messengers, who carry letters or orders from the Emperor, which they take care to signify at a due distance, by ringing a small bell, which for this particular purpose they always carry about them.

There are Inns enough, and tolerable good ones, all 12 along the road. The best are in those villages, where there are posthouses. At these even princes and princely retinues may be conveniently lodg'd, treated suitably to their rank, and provided with all necessaries. They are, like other well built houses, only one story high, or if there be two stories, the second is low and good for little else but stowage. The Inns are not broader in front, than other houses, but considerably deep, sometimes forty fathom, with a Tsuboo, that is, a small pleasure-garden behind, enclosed with a neat, white wall. The front hath only lattice windows, which are kept open all day long, as are also the folding-skreens, and moveable partitions, which divide the several apartments, unless there be some man of quality with his retinue at that time lodged there. This lays open to travellers, as they go along, a very agreeable perspective view cross the whole house into the garden behind. The floor is raised about half a fathom above the level of the street, and jetting out to some distance both towards the street and garden, forms a sort of a small bench, or gallery, which is cover'd with a roof, where travellers pass their time diverting themselves with sitting, or walking. From thence also they mount their horses, for fear of dirting their feet by mounting in the street. In some great Inns there is a passage contrivid .For the ease and conveniency of people of quality, that coming out of their Norimon's, they may walk directly to their apartments, without being obliged to pass through the fore-part of the house, which is commonly not over clean, and besides very obscure, making but an indifferent figure. It is cover'd with poor sorry mats, and the rooms divided onlv by common lattice windows. The kitchen also is in this fore-part of the house, and often fills it with smoak, they having no chimneys, but only a hole in the roof to let the smoak pass through. Here foottravellers and ordinary people live among the servants. People of fashion are accommodated in the back part of the house, which is kept clean and neat to admiration. Not the least spot is to be seen upon the walls, floors, carpets, posts, windows, skreens, in short no where in the room, which looks at all times, as if it were quite new, and but newly furnish'd. There are otherwise no tables, chairs, benches, or other houshold goods to be found in these rooms. They are only adorn'd with some Miseratsie's, as they call them, which are commonly things of value, artfully made and held in great esteem by this nation. They are put into or hung up in the rooms, for travellers to spend some of their leasure moments to consider and to examine them, which indeed some of them very well deserve.    [ 421]    The Tsubo, or garden behind the house, is also very curiously kept for travellers to divert themselves with walking therein, and beholding the fine beautiful flowers it is commonly adorn'd with. A more accurate description, both of the Miseratsje's and Tsuboo, will I hope not be thought improper. But I shall first take a short and general survey of the rooms themselves.

The rooms in Japanese houses have seldom more than one solid wall, which is pargetted and cast over with clay of Osacca, it being a good fine sort, and so left bare without any other ornament. It is besides made so thin, that the least kick would break it to pieces. On all other sides the room is enclos'd, either with windows or folding skreens and doors, which move in double joints both above and below, on purpose that they might be easily put on, or removed, as occasion requires. The lower joints are cut in a sill, which runs even with the carpets covering the floor, and the upper joints run in a beam, which comes down about two or three foot lower than the cieling. The paper windows, which let the light come into the room, have wooden shutters on both sides, which are hid in the day time, but put on at night, lest any body should get into the house out of the court, or from the gallery, which runs along the outside of the house. The beams, in which the joints are, are in like manner cast over with clay of Osacca, as is also the place from thence up to the cieling. The cieling is sometimes neither planed nor smoothed, by reason of the scarcity and curious running of the veins and grain of the wood, in which case it is only cover'd with a thin slight couch of a transparent varnish, to preserve it from decaying. Sometimes they paste it over with the same sort of variously coulour'd and flower'd paper, which their skreens are made of.

In the solid wall of the room there is allways a Tokko, as they call it, or a sort of a cupboard, raised about a foot, or more, above the floor, and very near two foot deep. It commonly stands in that part of the wall, which is just opposite to the door, it being reckon'd the most honourable, as is in Russian houses that corner, where they hang up their Bog, or Saint. Just below this Tokko, or cupboard, two extraordinary fine carpets are laid one upon the other, and both upon the ordinary mats or carpets, which cover the floor. These are for people of the first quality to sit upon, for upon the arrival of travellers of less note, they are remov'd out of the way. At the side of the Tokko, is a Tokkiwari, as they call it, or side cupboard, with some few boards in the middle, standing over one another in a very particular manner, the view whereof affords some amusement to a curious traveller. The boards themselves are called Tsigadanna, and serve for the landlord, or travellers, if they please, to lay their most esteem'd Book upon it, they holding it, as the Mahometans do their Alcoran, too sacred to be laid on the ground. Upon the arrival of the Dutch, this sacred    [ 422]    book of the landlord is put out of the way. Above the Tsigai is a particular drawer, where they put up the inkhorn, paper, writings, books, and other things of this kind. Here also travellers find sometimes the wooden trunk, which the natives use at night instead of pillows. It is almost cubical, hollow, and made of six thin boards join'd together, curiously varnish'd, smooth'd, and very neat without, about a span long, but not quite so broad, that travellers by turning it, as they please, may lay their head in that posture, which they find the most easy. Travellers have no other night cloathes, or bedding, to expect from the landlord, and must carry their own along with them, or else lie on the carpet, which covers the floor, covering themselves with their own cloaths, and laying their heads on this piece of wood, as on a pillow. In that side of the room, which is next to the Tokko, is commonly a very fine balcony, of an uncommon but very beautiful structure, serving for the person, who is lodged in this, as in the chief room of the house, to look out into the neighbouring garden, or fields, or upon the next water, without stirring from the carpets placed below the Tokko.

 Beneath the floor, which is cover'd with fine well stuff'd mats and carpets, is a square walltd hole, which in the winter season, after having first removid the carpets, they fill with ashes, and lay coals upon them to keep the room warm. The landladies in their room, put a low table upon this fire hole, and spread a large carpet, or tablecloth over it, for people to sit underneath, and to defend themselves against the cold, much in the same manner, as they do in Persia under a Kurtsij. In rooms, where there are no fireholes, they make use in the winter of brass or earthen pots, very artfully made, and fill'd with ashes, with two iron sticks, which serve them instead of firetongs, much after the same manner, as they use two other small sticks at table instead of forks.

I come now to the abovemention'd Miseraatsie's, as they call them, being curious and amusing ornaments of their rooms. In our journey to court, I took notice of the following, though not all together in one room, but in the several Inns we came to, as we went along. I. A paper neatly border'd with a rich piece of embroidery, instead of a frame, either with the picture of a Saint, done with a course pencil to all appearance, and in a few perhaps three or four strokes, wherein however the proportions and resemblance have been so far observed, that scarce any body can miss finding out, whom it was design'd to represent, nor help admiring the ingenuity and skill of the master: Or else a judicious moral sentence of some noted philosopher, or poet, writ with his own hand; or the hand of some noted writingmaster in that city or province, who had a mind to shew his skill by a few hasty strokes or characters, indifferent enough at first view, but nevertheless very ingeniously drawn, and such as will afford sufiicient matter of amusement    [ 423]    and speculation to a curious and attentive spectator. And lest any body should call their being genuine in question, they are commonly sign'd, not only by the writingmasters themselves, but have the hands and seals of some other witnesses put to them. They are hung up no where else, but in the Tokko, as the most honourable place of the room, and this because the Japanese set a very great value upon them. 2. The pictures of old Chinese, as also of birds, trees, landskips and other things, upon white skreens, done by some eminent master, or rather scratch'd with a few, hasty, affected, strokes, after such a manner, that unless seen at a proper distance, they scarce appear natural 3. A flowerpot standing under the Tsigaidanna, which they take particular care to keep constantly in good order, fill'd with all sorts of curious flowers and green branches of trees, such as the season affords, and curiously rang'd according to the rules of art, it being as much an art in this country to range a flowerpot in proper order, as it is in Europe to carve, or to lay the table cloth and napkins Sometimes there is, instead of a flowerpot, a perfuming pan of excellent good workmanship cast in brass or copper, resembling a crane, lion, dragon, or other strange animal I took notice once, that there was an earthen pot of Cologn, such as they use to keep Spawwater in, with all the cracks and fissures, carefully mended, put in lieu of a flowerpot, it being esteem'd a very great rarity, because of the distant place it came from, of the clay it was made of, and of its uncommon shape. 4. Some strange uncommon pieces of wood, wherein the colours and grain either naturally run after a curious and unusual manner, or have been brought by art to represent something extraordinary. Sometimes the Tsigaidanna itself is made of such a scarce sort of wood, and sometimes the frame and case of the balcony, or the Tokko, or the Tokowara, or the door which leads into the room, or that which opens into the gallery towards the garden, sometimes also the pillars and posts which are in the room, chiefly that, which supports the Tokko. Whatever things they be, that are made of such uncommon pieces of wood, they very often for fear of lessening the natural beauties, keep them rough and unpolish'd, with the bark on in several places, and only to preserve them, as well as for neatness sake, they cover them with a thin, slight transparent varnish. 5. Some neat and beautiful network, or branched work, adorning either the balcony and windows towards the garden, or the tops of the doors, skreens and partitions of the chief apartments. 6. Some other scarce and uncommon piece of wood, or a bunch of a tree, or a piece of a rotten root of an old stump, remarkable for their monstrous deform'd shape, which are either hung up in some corner of the room, or lie in the Tokowara.

After this manner the chief and back apartments are furnish'd in great inns, and houses of substantial people. The other rooms gradually decrease from that cleanliness, neatness and delicacy of furniture,    [ 424]    because the skreens, windows, mats, carpets, and other ornaments and houshold goods, after they have for some time adorn'd the chief apartments, and begin to be spotted, and to grow old, are remov'd by degrees into the other rooms, there to be quite worn. The chief and largest of the other rooms is that, where they keep their plate, china ware, and other houshold goods rang'd upon the floor in a curious and very particular order, according to their size, shape and use. Most of these goods are made of wood, thin, but strongly varnish'd, the greatest part upon a dark red ground. They are wash'd with warm water every time they are used, and wip'd clean with a cloth, and so laid by, against the next time. By this means, if they be lacker'd, and the varnish good, they will, though constantly used, keep clean and neat, and in their full lustre for several years.

The small gallery or walk, which jets out from the house towards the garden, leads to the house of office, and to a bathing-stove, or hothouse. The house of office is built on one side of the back part of the house, and hath two doors to go in. Going in you find at all times, a couple of new small mats, made either of straw or spanish broom, lying ready, for the use of those persons, who do not care to touch the ground with their bare feet, although it be kept neat and clean to admiration, being always cover'd with mats. You let drop what you need, sitting after the Asiatic fashion, through a hole cut in the floor. The trough underneath is fill'd with light chaff, wherein the filth loses it self instantly. Upon the arrival of people of quality, the board, which is opposite to your face, sitting in this necessary posture, is cover'd with a clean sheet of paper, as are also the bolts of the two doors, or any other part they are likely to lay hold of. Not far from the little house stands a bason fill'd with water, to wash your hands after this business is over. lNhis is commonly an oblong rough stone, the upper part whereof is curiously cut out, into the form of a bason. A new pail of bambous hangs near it, and is cover'd with a neat fir, or cypress board, to which they put a new handle every time it hath been us'd, to wit a fresh stick of the bambou cane, it being a very clean sort of a wood, and in a manner naturally varnish'd.

The bagnio, or bathing place, is commonly built on the backside of the garden. They build it of cypresswood. It contains either a Froo, as they call it, a hot house to sweat in, or a Cifl*roo, that is, a warm bath, and sometimes both together. It is made warm and got ready every evening, because the Japanese usually bath, or sweat, after their days journey is over, thinking by this means to refresh themselves and to sweat off their weariness. Besides, as they can undress themselves in an instant, so they are ready at a minute's warning to go into the bagnio. For they need but untie their sash, and all their doaths falls down at once, leaving them quite naked,    [ 425]    excepting a small band, which they wear close to the body about their waste. For the satisfaction of the curious, I will here insert a more particular description of their Froo, or hothouse, which they go into only to sweat. It is an almost cubical trunk, or stove, rais'd about three or four foot above the ground, and built close to the wall of the bathing place, on the outside. It is not quite a fathom high, but one fathom and a half long, and of the same breadth. The floor is laid with small plan'd laths or planks, which are some few inches distant from each other, both for the easy passage of the rising vapours, and the convenient out-let of the water people wash themselves withal. You are to go, or rather to creep in, through a small door or shutter. There are two other shutters, one on each side, to let out the superfluous damp. The empty space beneath this stove, down to the ground, is enclos'd with a wall, to prevent the damps from getting out on the sides. Towards the yard is a furnace just beneath the hot-house. The fire-hole is shut up towards the bathing stove, to prevent the smoke's getting in there. Part of the furnace stands out towards the yard, where they put in the necessary water and plants. This part is shut with a clap-board, when the fire is burning, to make all the damp and vapours ascend through the inner and open part into the hot-house. There are always two tubs, one of warm, the other of cold water, put into these hot-houses, for such as have a mind to wash themselves, either for their diversion, or out of necessity.

The garden is the only place, we Dutchmen, being treated in all respects little better than prisoners, have liberty to walk into. It takes in all the room behind the house. It is commonly square, with a back door, and wall'd in very neatly, like a cistern, or pond, for which reason it is call'd Tsubo, which in the Japanese language signifies a large water-trough, or cistern. There are few good houses and inns, but what have their Tsubo. If there be not room enough for a garden, they have at least an old ingrafted plum, cherry, or apricock tree. The older, the more crooked and monstrous this tree is, the greater value they put upon it. Sometimes they let the branches grow into the rooms. In order to make it bear larger flowers, and in greater quantity, they commonly cut it to a few, perhaps two or three branches. It cannot be denied, but that the great number of beautiful, incarnate, and double flowers, which they bear in the proper Season, are a surprizingly curious ornament to this back part of the house, but they have this disadvantage, that they bear no fruit. In some small houses, and Inns of less note, where there is not room enough, neither for a garden, nor trees, they have at least an opening or window to let the light fall into the back rooms, before which, for the amusement and diversion of travellers, is put a small tub, full of water, wherein they commonly keep some gold or silver fish, as they call them, being    [ 426]    fish with gold or silver-colour'd Tails alive For a farther ornament of the sarne place, there is generally a flower-pot or two standing there. Sometimes they plant some dwarf-trees there, which will grow easily upon pumice, or other porous stones, without any ground at all, provided the root be put into the water, from whence it will suck up sufficient nourishment. Ordinary people often plant the same kind of trees before the street-doors, for their diversion, as well as for an ornament to their houses. But to return to the Tsubo, or Garden, if it be a good one, it must have at least 30 foot square, and consist of the following essential parts. 1. The ground is cover'd partly with roundish stones of different colours, gather'd in rivers or upon the seashore, well wash'd and cleanZd, and those of the same kind laid together in form of beds, partly with gravel, which is swept every day, and kept clean and neat to admiration, the large stones being laid in the middle, as a path to walk upon, without injuring the gravel, the whole in a seeming but ingenious conftusion. 2. Some few flower-bearing plants planted confusedly, tho' not without some certain rules. Amidst the Plants stands sometimes a Saguer, as they call it, or scarce outlandish tree, sometimes a dwarf-tree or two. 3. A small rock or hill in a corner of the garden, made in imitation of nature, curiously adorn'd with birds and insects, cast in brass, and placed between the stones, sometimes the model of a temple stands upon it built, as for the sake of the prospect they generally are, on a remarkable eminence, or the borders of a precipice. Often a small rivulet rushes down the stones with an agreeable noise, the whole in due proportions and as near as possible resembling nature. 4. A small bush, or wood, on the side of the hill, for which the gardiners chuse such trees, as will grow close to one another, and plant and cut them according to their largeness, nature, and the colour of their flowers and leaves, so as to make the whole very accurately imitate a natural wood, or forest. 5. A cistern or pond, as mention'd above, with alive fish kept in it, and surrounded with proper plants, that is such, as love a watry soil, and would lose their beauty and greeness if planted in a dry ground. It is a particular profession to lay out these gardens, and to keep them so curiously and nicely, as they ought to be, as I shall have an opportunity to shew more at large in the sequel of this history. Nor doth it require less skill and ingenuity to contrive and fit out the rocks and hills above-mention'd, according to the rules of art. What I have hitherto observ'd will be sufficient to give the reader a general Idea of the Inns in Japan. The accommodation travellers meet with in the same, I intend to treat of in a chapter by itself.

There are innumerable smaller Inns, Cook-shops, Sacki, or Ale-houses, Pastry-cook's, and Confectioner's shops, all along the road, even in the midst of woods and forests, and at the tops of mountains, where a weary foot-traveller, and the meaner sort of people, find at all times,    [ 427]    for a few farthings, something warm to eat, or hot Tea-water, or Sacki, or somewhat else of this kind, wherewithal to refresh themselves. 'Tis true, these cook-shops are but poor sorry houses, if compar'd to larger Inns, being inhabited only by poor people, who have enough to do to get a livelihood by this trade: and yet even in these, there is always something or other to amuse passengers, and to draw them in; sometimes a garden and orchard behind the house, which is seen from the street looking thro' the passage, and which by its beautiful flowers, or the agreeable sight of a stream of clear water, falling down from a neighbouring natural or artificial hill, or by some other curious ornament of this kind, tempts People to come in and to repose themselves in the shadow; at other times a large flower-pot stands in the window, fill'd with flowering branches of trees, (for the flowers of plants, tho' never so beautiful, are too common to deserve a place in such a pot,) dispos'd in a very curious and singular manner; sometimes a handsom, welllooking house-maid, or a couple of young girls well dress'd, stand under the doora and with great civility invite people to come in, and to buy something. The eatables, such as cakes, or whatever it be, are kept before the fire, in an open room, sticking to skewers of Bambous, to the end that passengers, as they go along, may take them, and pursue their journey without stopping. The landladies, cooks, and maids, assoon as they see any body coming at a distance blow up the fire, to make it look, as if the victuals had been just got ready. Some busy themselves with making the tea, others prepare the soop in a cup, others fill cups with Sacki, or other liquors to present them to passengers, all the while talking, and chattering, and commending their merchandize with a voice loud enough to be heard by their next neighbours of the same profession.

The eatables sold at these cook-shops, besides Tea, and sometimes Sacki, are; Mansje, a sort of round cakes, which they learnt to make from the Portuguese, they are as big as common hen's-eggs, and sometimes fill'd within with black bean-flower and sugar; cakes of the jelly of the Kaads root, which root is found upon mountains, and cut into round slices, like carrots, and roasted; snails, oysters, shell-fish and other small fish roasted, boil'd or pickel'd; Chinese Laxa, is a thin sort of a pap, or paste, made of fine wheat-flower, cut into small, thin, long slices and bak'd; all sorts of plants, roots and sprigs, which the season affords, wash'd and clean'd, then boil'd in water with salt; innumerable other dishes peculiar to this country, made of seeds of plants, powder'l roots, and vegetable substances, boil'd or bak'd, dress'd in many different ways, of various shapes and colours, a still subsisting proof of the indigent and necessitous way of life of their ancestors, and the original barrenness of the country, before it was cultivated and improv'd to what it now is. The common sauce for these and other dishes is a little Soje, as they call it, mix'd with Sakki or the beer of the country. Sansjo    [ 428]    leaves are laid upon the dish for ornament's sake, and sometimes thin slices of fine ginger and lemon-peel. Sometimes they put powder'd ginger, Sansjo, or the powder of some root growing in the country into the soop. They are also provided with sweet-meats of several different colours and sorts, which generally speaking are far more agreeable to the eye, than pleasing to the taste, being but indifferently sweeten'd with sugar, and withal so tough, that one must have good teeth to chew them. Foot-travellers find it set down in their printed roadbooks, which they always carry about them, where, and at what price, the best victuals of the kind are to be got.

It now remains to add a few words concerning the Tea, the rather since most travellers drink scarce any thing else upon the road. It is sold at all the inns and cookshops along the road, besides many Tea-booths set up, only for this trade, in the midst of fields and woods, and at the tops of mountains. The Tea sold at all these places is but a course sort, being only the largest leaves, which remain upon the shrub after the youngest and tenderest have been pluck'd off at two different times, for the use of people of fashion, who constantly drink it before or after their meals. These larger leaves are not roll'd up, and curl'd, as the better sort of Tea is, but simply roasted in a pan, and continually stirr'd, whilst they are roasting, lest they should get a burnt taste. When they are done enough, they put them by in straw-baskets under the roof of the house, near the place where the smoak comes out. They are not a bit nicer in preparing it for drinking, for they commonly take a good handful of the Tea-leaves, and boil them in a large iron kettle full of water. The leaves are sometimes wrapt up in a small bag, but if not, they have a little basket swimming in the kettle, which they make use of to keep the leaves down, when they have a mind to take out some of the clear decoction. Half a cup of this decoction is mix'd with cold water, when travellers ask for it. Tea thus prepar'd smells and tastes like lye, the leaves it is made of, besides that they are of a very bad sort, being seldom less than a year old; and yet the Japanese esteem it much more healthful for daily use, than the young tender leaves prepar'd after the Chinese manner, which they say affect the head too strongly, tho' even these lose a great part of their narcotick quality when boil'd.

I omit taking notice in this place of the shops and warehouses, which are without number within and without cities, in villages and hamlets, by reason of their being not very different from ours in Germany, and because I have elsewhere mention'd the goods and manufactures of the country, which are therein expos'd to sale.    [ 429]

 

Chap. V. Of the great Numbers of people, who daily travel on the Roads.

It is scarce credible, what numerous people daily travel on the roads in this country, and I can assure the reader from my own experience, having pass'd it four times, that Tokaido, which is one of the chief, and indeed the most frequented of the seven great roads in Japan, is upon some days more crowded, than the publick streets in any the most populous town in Europe. This is owing partly to the Country's being extreamly populous, partly to the frequent journies, which the natives undertake, oftner than perhaps any other nation, either willingly and out of their own free choice, or because they are necessitated to it. For the reader's satisfaction, I will here insert a short preliminary account of the most remarkable persons, companies and trains, travellers daily meet upon the road. The Princes and Lords of the Empire, with their numerous retinues, as also the Governors of the Imperial Cities and Crown-lands, deserve to be mention'd in the first place. It is their duty to go to court once a year, and to pay their homage and respect to the Secular Monarch, at certain times determin'd by the supreme power. Hence they must frequent these roads twice every year, going up to court and returning from thence.

They are attended in this journey by their whole court, and commonly make it with that pomp and magnificence, which is thought becoming their own quality and riches, as well as the Majesty of the powerful Monarch, whom they are going to see. The train of some of the most eminent among the Princes of the Empire fills up the road for some days. Accordingly tho' we travell'd pretty fast ourselves, yet we often met the baggage and ioretroops, consisting of the servants and inferior officers, for two days together, dispers'd in several troops, and the Prince himself follow'd but the third day attended with his numerous court, all marching in admirable order. The retinue of one of the chief Daimios, as they are call'd, is computed to amount to about 20000 men, more or less, that of a Sjomio to about 10000; that of a Governor of the Imperial Cities and Crownlands, to one, or several hundreds, according to his quality or revenues.

If two, or more of these Princes and Lords, with their numerous retinues, should chance to travel the same road at the same time, they would prove a great hindrance to one another, particularly if they should happen at once to come to the same Siuku or village, for as much as often whole great villages are scarce large enough to lodge the    [ 430]    retinue of one single Daimio. To prevent these inconveniencies, it is usual for great Princes and Lords, to bespeak the several Siuku's, they are to pass through, with all the Inns some time before; as for instance, some of the first quality, a month, others a week or two before their arrival. Moreover the time of their future arrival is notified in all the cities villages and hamlets, they are to pass through, by putting up small boards on high poles of Bambous, at the entry and end of every village, signifying in a few characters, what day of the month such or such a Lord is to pass through that village, to dine, or to lie there.

To satisfy the Reader's curiosity, it will not be amiss to describe one of these princely trains, omitting the forerunners, baggage, led horses, cangos, and palanquins, which are sent a day or two before. But the account, which I propose to give, must not be understood of the retinues of the most powerful Princes and petty Kings, such as the Lords of Satzuma, Cango, Owari, Kijnokuni and Mito, but only of those of some other Daimions, several of which we met in our journey to court, the rather as they differ but little, excepting only the coats of arms, and particular pikes, some arbitrary order in the march, and the number of ledhorses, Fassanbaks, Norimons, Cangos, and their attendants.

1. Numerous troops of fore-runners, harbingers, clerks, cooks, and other inferior officers, begin the march, they being to provide lodgings, victuals and other necessary things, for the entertainment of their prince and master, and his court. They are follow'd by,

2. The prince's heavy baggage, pack'd up either in small trunks, such as I have above describ'd, and carried upon horses, each with a banner, bearing the coat of arms and the name of the possessor, or else in large chests cover'd with red lacker'd leather, again with the possessors coat of arms, and carried upon men's shoulders, with multitudes of inspectors to look after them.

3. Great numbers of smaller retinues, belonging to the chief officers and noblemen attending the prince, with pikes, scymeters, bows and arrows, umbrello's, palanquins, led-horses, and other marks of their grandeur, suitable to their birth, quality, and office. (Figs. 100, 101.) Some of these are carried in Norimons, others in Cangos, others go on horseback.

4. The Prince's own numerous train, marching in an admirable and curious order, and divided into several troops, each headed by a proper commanding officer: As, 1. Five, more or less, fine led horses, led each by two grooms, one on each side, two footmen walking behind.

2. Five, or six, and sometimes more porters, richly clad walking one by one, and carrying Fassanbacks, or lacker'd chests, and japan'd neat trunks and baskets upon their shoulders, wherein are kept the gowns, cloaths, wearing apparel, and other necessaries for the daily use of the Prince; each porter is attended by two footmen, who take up his charge by turns. 3. Ten, or more fellows walking again one by one, and carrying rich scymeters, pikes of state, fire-arms, and    [ 431]    other weapons in lacker'd wooden cases, as also quivers with bows and arrows. (Figs. 102, 103.) Sometime for magnificence's sake, there are more Fassanback bearers, and other led horses follow this troop. 4. Two, three, or more men, who carry the pikes of state, (Fig. 103) as the badges of the Prince's power and authority, adorn'd at the upper end with bunches of cockfeathers, or certain rough hides, or other particular ornaments, peculiar to such or such a Prince. They walk one by one, and are attended each by two footmen. 5. A gentleman carrying the Prince's hat, which he wears to shelter himself from the heat of the Sun, and which is cover'd with black velvet. He is attended likewise by two footmen. 6. A Gentleman carrying the Prince's Somberiro or Umbrello, which is cover'd in like manner with black velvet, attended by two footmen. 7. Some more Fassanbacks and varnish'd trunks, cover'd with varnish'd leather, with the Prince's coat of arms upon them, each with two men to take care of it. 8. Sixteen, more or less, of the Prince's pages, and gentlemen of his bed-chamber, richly clad, walking two and two before his Norimon. They are taken out from among the first quality of his court. 9. The Prince himself sitting in a stately Norimon, or Palanquin, carried by six or eight men, clad in rich liveries, with several others walking at the Norimon's sides, to take it up by turns. Two or three Gentlemen of the Prince's Bed-chamber walk at the Norimon's side, to give him what he wants and asks for, and to assist and support him in going in or out of the Norimon. 10. Two or three norses of state, the saddles cover'd with black. One of these horses carries a large elbow-chair (Fig. 104), which is sometimes cover'd with black velvet, and placed on a Norikako of the same stuff These horses are attended each by several grooms and footmen in liveries, and some are led by the Prince's own pages. 11. Two Pike-bearers. 12. Ten or more people carrying each two baskets of a monstrous large size, fix'd to the ends of a pole, which they lay on their shoulders in such a manner, that one basket hangs down before another behind them. These baskets are more for state, than for any use. Sometimes some Fassanbak bearers walk among them, to encrease the troop. In this order marches the Prince's own train, which is follow'd by

5. Six to twelve Led-horses, with their leaders, grooms and footmen, all in liveries.

6. A multitude of the Prince's Domesticks, and other officers of his court, with their own very numerous trains and attendants, Pike-bearers, Fassanbak Bearers, and footmen in liveries. Some of these are carried in Cangos, and the whole troop is headed by the Prince's high-steward carrled in a Norimon.

If one of the Prince's Sons accompanies his Father in this journey to court, he follows with his own train immediately after his Father's Norimon.

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It is a sight exceedingly curious and worthy of admiration, to see all the persons, who compose the numerous train of a great prince, the pike-bearers only, the Norimonmen and Liverymen excepted, clad in black silk, marching in an elegant order, with a decent becoming gravity, and keeping so profound a silence, that not the least noise is to be heard, save what must necessarily arise from the motion and rushing of their habits, and the trampling of the horses and men. On the other hand it appears ridiculous to an European, to see all the Pike bearers and Norimon-men, with their cloaths tuck'd up above their waste, exposing their naked backs to the spectator's view, having only their privities cover'd with a piece of cloath. What appears still more odd and whimsical, is to see the Pages, Pikebearers, Umbrello and hat-bearers, Fassanbak or chestbearers, and all the footmen in liveries, affect a strange mimic march or dance, when they pass through some remarkable Town, or Borough, or by the train of another Prince or Lord. Every step they make, they draw up one foot quite to their back, in the mean time stretching out the arm on the opposite side as far as they can, and putting themselves in such a posture, as if they had a mind to swim through the air. Mean while the pikes, hats, umbrello's, Fassanbacks, boxes, baskets, and what ever else they carry, are danced and toss'd about in a very singular manner, answering the motion of their bodies. The Norimon-men have their sleeves tied with a string, as near the shoulders as possible, and leave their arms naked. They carry the pole of the Norimon either upon their shoulders, or else upon the palm of the hand, holding it up above their heads. Whilst they hold it up with one arm, they stretch out the other, putting the hand into a horizontal posture, whereby, and by their short deliberate steps and stiff knees, they affect a ridiculous fear and circumspection. If the Prince steps out of his Norimon into one of the green huts- which are purposely built for him, at convenient distances on the road, or if he goes into a private house, either to drink a dish of tea, or to drop his needs, he always leaves a Cobang with the Landlord as a reward for his trouble. At dinner and supper the expence is much greater.

All the pilgrims, who go to Isje, whatever province of l the Empire they come from, must travel over part of this l great road. This pilgrimage is made at all times of the year, but particularly in the spring; and 'tis about that time vast multitudes of these people are seen upon the roads. TheJapanese of both sexes,young and old, rich and poor, undertake this meritorious Journey, generally speakmg on foot, in order to obtain at this holy place indulgences and remission of their Sins. Some of these pilgrims are so poor, that they must live wholly upon what they get by begging along the road. 'Tis    [ 433]    particularly on this account, and by reason of their great number, that they are exceedingly troublesome to the Princes and Lords, who at that time of the year go to Court, or come from thence, though otherwise they address themselves in a very civil manner, bare headed, and with a low submissive voice, saying, Great Lord, be pleas'd to give the poor Pilgrim a farthing towards the expence of his journey to Isje, or words to this effect. Of all the Japanese, the Inhabitants of Jedo and the Province Osju are the most inclin'd to this holy Pilgrimage, and frequently resort to Isje, often wlthout the knowledge of their parents and relations, or leave from their magistrates, which they are otherwise oblig'd to take in that and other Provinces. Nay children, if apprehensive of a severe punishment for thelr misdemeanors, will run away from their parents and go to Isje, there to fetch an Ofarrai, or Indulgence, which, upon their return is deem'd a sufficient expiation of their crimes, and a sure means to reconcile them to them Multitudes of these Pilgrims are oblig'd to pass whole nights, lying in the open fields, expos'd to all the injuries of wind and weather, some for want of room in inns, all the inns and houses of great villages, being at sometimes of the year not sufficient to harbour them; others out of poverty: and of these last many are found dead upon the road, in which case their Ofarrai, if they have any about them, is carefully taken up, and hid in the next tree or bush. Sometimes idle and lazy fellows, under pretence of this pilgrimage, go begging all the year round, or so long as they can get enough wherewithal to subsist and to carry on this idle way of life. Others make this Pilgrimage in a comical and merry way, drawing people's eyes upon them, as well as getting their money. Some of these form themselves into a society, which is generally compos'd of four persons, clad in white linnen, after the fashion of the Kuge, or persons of the holy Ecclesiastical Court of the Dairi, or Ecclesiastical Hereditary Emperor. Two of them walking a grave, slow, deliberate pace, and standing often still, carry a large barrow adorn'd and hung about with Firbranches, and cut white paper, on which they place a large bell made of light substance, or a kettle, or something else taken out and alluding to some old romantick history of their Gods, and Ancestors. Whilst a third, with a commander's staff in his hand, adorn'd out of respect to his ofiice, with a bunch of white paper, walks or rather dances before the barrow, singing, with a dull heavy voice, a song relating to the subject they are about to represent. Mean while the fourth goes begging before the houses, or addresses himself to charitable travellers, and receives and keeps the money which is given them out of charity. I9heir day's journies are so short, that they can easily spend a whole summer upon such an expedition.

The Siunre are another remarkable sight travellers meet with upon the roads. Siunre are people, who go to visit in Pilgrimage the 33 chief Quanwon Temples, which lie dispers'd in several provinces of the Empire. They commonly travel two or three together, singing a miserable    [ 434]    Quanwon-song from house to house, and sometimes playing upon a fiddle, or upon a Guitar, as vagabond beggars do in Germany: However they do not importune travellers for their charity. They have the names of such Quanwon Temples, as they have not yet visited, writ upon a small board hanging about their neck in proper order. They are clad in white, after a very singular fashion, peculiar only to this sect. Some people like it so well to ramble about the country after this manner, that they will apply themselves to no other trade and profession, to get a livelihood by, but chuse to end their days in this perpetual pilgrimage.

Sometimes one meets with very odd strange sights, as a for instance, people running stark naked about the streets in the hardest frosts, wearing only a little straw about their waste to cover their privities. These people generally undertake so extraordinary and troublesome a journey, to visit certain temples, pursuant to religious vows, which they promis'd to fulfil in case they shouid obtain from the bounty of their Gods deliverance from some fatal distemper, they themselves, their parents or relations labour'd under, or from some other great misfortunes they were threaten'd with. They live very poorly and miserably upon the road, receive no charity, and proceed on their journey by themselves, almost perpetually running.

Multitudes of beggars crowd the roads in all parts of the Empire, but particularly on the so much frequented Tokaido. Among them there are many lusty young fellows, who shave their heads. This custom of shaving the head hath been originally introduced by Sotoktais, a zealous propagator of the Fotoge, or doctrine of the foreign Pagan worship, and was kept up ever since. For being vigorously opposed in the propagation of his doctrine by one Moria, he commanded all that had embraced his worship, to shave part of their heads, to be thereby distinguish'd from the adherents of Moria, and likewise order'd, that their male-children should have their whole head shav'd, after the manner of their Priests, and by virtue of this solely enjoy the privilege of begging.

 To this shav'd begging tribe belongs a certain remarkf able religious order oS young Girls, call'd Bikuni, which is as much as to say, Nuns. They live under the protection of the Nunneries at Kamakura and Miaco, to whom they pay a certain sum a year, of what they get by begging, as an acknowledgement of their authority. Some pay besides a sort of tribute, or contribution, to the Khumano Temples at Isje. Their chief abode is in the neighbourhood of Khumano, from whence they are call'd Kfiumano no Bikuni, or the Nuns of Khumano, for distinction's sake from other religious Nuns. They are, in my opinion, by much the handsomest girls we saw in Japan. The daughters of poor parents, if they be handsom and agreeable, apply for and easily obtain this privilege of begging in the habit of Nuns, knowing that beauty is one of the most persuasive inducements for travellers to let them feel the effects of their generosity. The Jammabos, or begging Mountain-Priests,    [ 435]    (of whom more hereafter) frequently incorporate their own daughters into this religious order, and take their wives from among these Bikuni's. Some of them have been bred up in bawdyhouses, and having serv'd their time there, buy the privilege of entering into this religious order, therein to spend the remainder of their youth and beauty. They live two or three together, and make an excursion every day some few miles off their dwellinghouses. They particularly watch people of fashion, who travel in Norimons, or in Cango's, or on Horseback. Assoon as they perceive some body a coming, they draw near and address themselves tho' not all together, but singly, every one accosting a gentleman by herself, singing a rural song: if he proves very liberal and charitable, she will keep him company and divert him for some hours. As on the one hand very little religious blood seems to circulate in their veins, so on the other it doth not appear, that they labour under any considerable degree of poverty. 'Tis true indeed, they conform themselves to the rules of their order by shaving their heads, but they take care to cover and to wrap them up in caps or hoods made of black silk. They go decently and neatly dress'd after the fashion of ordinary people, and wear gloves without fingers on their arms. They wear also a large hat to cover their faces, which are often painted, and to shelter themselves from the heat of the sun. They commonly have a shepherd's rod or hook in their hands. Their voice, gestures, and apparent behaviour, are neither too bold and daring, nor too much dejected and affected, but free, comely, and seemingly modest. However not to extol their modesty beyond what it deserves, it must be observ'd, that they make nothing of laying their bosoms quite bare to the view of charitable travellers, all the while they keep them company, under pretence of its being customary in the country, and that for ought I know, they may be, tho' never so religiously shav'd, full as impudent and lascivious, as any whore in a publick bawdyhouse.

Having thus given an account of these Bikunis, it will not be improper to add a few words of another religious begging order of the Jammabos, as they are commonly call'd, that is Mountain-Priests, or rather Jammabus, that is Mountain-Soldiers, because at all times they go arm'd with swords and scimiters. They do not shave their heads and follow the rules of the first founder of this order, who mortify'd his body by climbing up steep high mountains, at least they conform themselves thereunto in their dress, apparent behaviour, and some outward ceremonies, for they are fall'n far short of his rigorous way of life. They have their Head, or General of their order, residing at Miaco, to whom they are oblig'd to bring up a certain sum of money every year, and in return obtain from him a higher dignity, with some additional ornament, whereby they are known among themselves. They commonly live in the neighbourhood of some famous Cami Temple, and accost travellers in the name of that Cami, which is worship'd there, making a shortdiscourse of his holiness and miracles, with a loud course voice, mean while to make the noise still louder,    [ 436]    they rattle their long staffs loaded at the upper end with Iron rings to take up the Charitymoney which is given them; and last of all they blow a trumpet made of a large shell. They carry their children along with them upon the same begging errand, clad like their fathers, but with their heads shav'd. These little bastards are exceedingly troublesome and importunate with travellers, and commonly take care to light of them, as they are going up some hill or mountain, where because of the difficult ascent they cannot well escape, nor indeed otherwise get rid of them without giving them something. In some places they and their fathers accost travellers in company with a troop of Bikuni's, and with their rattling, singing, trumpeting, chattering, and crying, make such a horrld frlghtful noise, as would make one mad or deaf. These Mountain-Priests are frequently address'd to by superstitious people, for conjuring, fortune-telling, fbreteJling future events, recovering lost goods, and the like purposes. They profess themselves to be of the Cami lteligion, as establish'd of old, and yet they are never suffer'd to attend or to take care of any of the Cami Temples.

There are many more beggars, travellers meet with

of along the roads. Some of these are old, and in all appearance honest men, who, the better to prevail upon people to part with their charity, are shav'd and clad after the fashion of the Siuko, or Budsdo Priests Sometimes there are two of them standing together, each with a small oblong book before him, folded much after the same manner as publick instruments are in the Chancery of Siam. This Book contains part of their Fokekio, or Bible, printed in the significant or learned language.

However, I would not have the Reader think, as if they themselves had any understanding in that language, or knew how to read the book plac'd before them. They only learn some part of it by heart, and speak it aloud, looking towards the book, as if they did actually read in it, and expecting something from their hearers as a reward for their trouble. Others are found sitting near some river, or running water, making a Siegaki, a certain ceremony for the relief of departed Souls. This Siegaki is made after the following manner. They take a green branch of the Fanna Skimmi Tree, and murmuring certain words wlth a low voice, wash and scower with it some shavings of wood, whereon they had written the names of some deceased Persons. This they believe to contribute greatly to relieve and refresh their departed souls confin'd in Purgatory, and for ought I know, it may answer that purpose full as well, as any number of Masses, as they are celebrated to the same end in Roman Catholick Countries. Any person that hath a mind to purchase the benefit of this washing, for himself or his relations and friends, throws a Senni upon the Mat, which is spread out near the beggar, who doth not so much as offer to return him any manner of thanks for it, thinking his art and devotion deserve still better, besides, that it is not customary amongst beggars of note, to thank people for their charity. Any one, who hath learn'd the proper ceremonies necessary to make the Siegaki, is at    [ 437]    liberty to do it. Others of this tribe, who make up far the greater part, sit upon the road all day long upon a small course mat. They have a flat bell, like a broad mortar, lying before them, and do nothing else, but repeat with a lamentable singing-tune the word Namanda, which is contracted from Namu Amida Budsu, a short form of prayers, wherewith they address the God Amida, as the patron and advocate of departed souls. Mean while they beat almost continually with a small wooden hammer upon the aforesaid bell, and this they say, in order to be the sooner heard by Amida, and I am apt to think, not with out an intent to be the better taken notice of by passengers too.

Since I have hitherto entertain'd the reader with an account of the beggars, and numerous begging companies of this country, I must beg leave, before I quit this subject, to mention two or three more. Another sort we met with, as we went along, were differently clad, some in an Ecclesiastical, others in a Secular habit. These stood in the fields next to the road, and commonly had a sort of an altar standing before them, upon which they placed the Idol of their Briareus, or Quanwon, as they call him, carv'd in wood and gilt; or the Pictures of some other Idols scurvily done; as for instance, the picture of Amida the supreme judge of departed souls, of Jemau 0, or the head-keeper of the prison, whereunto the condemn'd souls are confin'd; of Dsisoo, or the supreme Commander in the Purgatory of children, and some others, wherewith and by some representations of the Bames and torments prepared for the wicked in a future world, they endeavour to stir up in passengers compassion and charity.

Other beggars, and these to all appearance honest enough, are met sitting along the road, clad much after the same manner with the Quanwon beggars, with a Dsisoo staff in their hand. These have made vow not to speak during a certain time, and express their want and desire only by a sad, dejected, woeful countenance.

Not to mention numberless other common beggars, some sick, some stout and lusty enough, who get people's charity by praying, singing, playing upon fiddles, guitars and other musical instruments, or performing some juggler's tricks, I will close the account of this vermin with an odd remarkable sort of a beggar's musick, or rather chime of bells, we sometimes, but rarely, met with in our journey to court, and which is from the number of bells call'd Fatsio Canne, the chime or musicjc of eight. A young boy with a sort of a wooden roof or machine pendant from his neck, and a rope with eight strings about it, from which hang down eight bells of different sounds, turns round in a circle, with a swiftness scarce credible, in such a manner, that both the machine which rests upon his shoulders, and the bells turn round with him horizontally, the boy in the mean while with great dexterity and quickncss beating them with two hammers makes a strange odd sort of a melody. To encrease the noise, two people sitting near him beat, one upon a large, the other upon a    [ 438]    smaller drum. Those, who are pleas'd with their performance, throw them some Sennis, or farthings, upon the ground.

The crowd and throng upon the roads in this country is not a little encreas'd by nurnberless small retail-merchants and children of country people, who run about from morning to night, following travellers, and offering them to sale their poor, for the most part eatable merchandize; such as for instance several cakes and sweetmeats, wherein the quantity of sugar is so inconsiderable, that it is scarce perceptible, other cakes of different sorts made of flower, Soccani, or else all sorts of roots boil'd in water and salt, roadbooks, straw-shoes for horses and men, ropes, strings, tooth-pickers, and a multitude of other trifles made of wood, straw, reed and Bambous, such as the situation of every place affords.

In some places, both within and without cities and villages, one meets sometimes empty Cangos and Palanquins, or empty and saddled, tho' otherwise but meanlooking horses, with the men to attend them, who offer themselves and their horses to carry weary foottravellers to the next post-house, or where they please, for a small matter. Commonly they have been already employ'd, and would be oblig'd to return empty to the place, from whence they set out, if they did not pick up some body by the way, that will, or hath occasion to make use of them.

To compleat the account, I propos'd to give of what h multitudes of people travellers daily meet with along the e road, I must not forget to take particular notice, of numberless wenches, the great and small Inns, teabooths, and cook-shops, chiefly in villages and hamlets, in the great Island Nipon, are abundantly and at all times burnish'd withal. About noon, when they have done dressing and painting themselves, they make their appearance, standing under the door of the house, or sitting upon the small gallery or bench, which is before the house, from whence, with a smiling countenance and good words, they invite the several travelling troops, that pass by, to call in at their Inn preferably to others. In some places, where there are several inns standing near one another, chiefly in the Siuku, or such villages as have Posthouses, they make, with their chattering and rattling no inconsiderable noise, and prove not a little troublesome. The two villages Akasaki and Goy, lying near one another, are particularly famous on this account, all the houses therein being so many Inns, or rather bawdy-houses, each furnish'd with no less than three, six, or seven of these wenches, for which reason also they are callnd the great storehouse of Japanese whores, and by way of banter, the common grind-mill. Very seldom any Japanese pass thro' these villages, but they pick up some of these whores and have to do with them. I cannot forbear mentioning in this place a small mistake of Mr. Caron, in his account of Japan, where he shews so tender a regard tor the honour of the Japanese sex (perhaps out of respect to his lady, who was a Japan woman) as to assert, that besides the publick and priviledg'd bawdy-houses, this trade is not carried on in any other city or village    [ 439]    throughout the Empire. It is unquestionably true, that there is hardly a publick Inn upon the great Island Nipon, but what may be call'd a bawdyhouse; and if there be too many customers resort to one place, the neighbouring Innkeepers will friendly and willingly lend their own wenches, on condition, that what money they get shall be faithfully paid them. Nor is it a new custom come up but lately in this country, or since Mr. Caron's time. On the contrary, it is of very old date, and took its rise many hundred years ago, in the times of that brave General and first Secular Monarch Joritoma, who apprehensive, lest his soldiers weary of his long and tedious expeditions, and desirous to return home to their wives and children, should desert his army, thought it much more adviseable to indulge them in this particular, and to gratify their carnal appetites, by allowing publick and private bawdyhouses. 'Tis upon the same account, that the Chinese us'd to call Japan the bawdy-house of China, for this unlawful trade being utterly and under severe penalties forbid throughout all the Chinese Emperor's dominions, his subjects frequently resorted to Japan, there to spend their money in company with such wenches.

 

Chap. VI. Of our Journey to the Emperor's Court in general, and how we were acommodated on the road.

All the Princes, Lords and Vassals of the Japanese Empire, being obligg'd to make their appearance at Court once a year, it hath been determin'd by the Emperor, what time and what day they are to set out on their journey. The same was observ'd with regard to the Dutch, and the 15th or 16th day of the first Japanese month, which commonly falls in with the middle of our February, hath been fixed for our constant departure for times to come. 'Tis towards that time we get every thing ready to set out, having first sent the presents, we are to make at Osacca, Miaco, and at the Emperor's Court (sorted and carefully pack'd) together with the victuals and kitchen furniture for our future voyage by Sea, and other heavy baggage, to the city of Simonoseki, on board a barge built for this sole purpose. Every other year this barge must be provided with new tackle, and the cabin hung with new furniture, according to the custom of the country, and it is with no little expence that it is kept in constant good repair. If she grows out of use, a new one must be bought or built for a considerable sum.

All the presents and other goods being put on board, she sets sail for Simonoseki, some time before our own departure, because as we make that part of our journey by land, and in less    [ 440]    time, sbe must wait our arrival there, in order to take us and our retinue on board, and to carry us to Osacca. Formerly we went on board our selves in the harbour of Nagasaki, and made the whole voyage from thence to Osacca by Sea, but a very sudden and violent storm having once befallen and put us into eminent danger, the Emperor, out of a tender regard for the security of our persons, hath since order'd, that we should make this first part of our journey by Land. Three or four weeks after this barge hath set sail to Simonoseki, and a few days before our departure, our Resident attended with his usual train, goes to visit the two Governors of Nagasaki, at their Palaces, in order to take his leave of them, and to recommend the Dutch, who remain in our factory, to their favour and protection.

The next day all the goods and other things, which

must be carried along with us, either by horses or men are mark'd, every bale or trunk with a small board, whereupon is writ the possessor's name, and what things are therein contain'd. The very day of our departure, all the officers of our Island, and all persons, who are any ways concern'd with our affairs, particularly the future companions of our voyage, come over to Desima early in the morning. They are follow'd soon after by both Governors, attended with their whole numerous court, or else by their deputies, who come to visit us, and to wish us a good journey, as persons that are now going to have the singular honour of being admitted into the presence of the supreme majesty of the Empire. The Governors, or their deputies, having been entertain'd as usual upon this occasion, and taken their leave, are by us accompanied out of our Island, which is done commonly about nine in the morning, at which time also we set out on our journey. The Bugio, or Commander in chief of our train, and the Dutch Resident enter their Norimons. The chief Interpreter, if he be old, is carried in an ordinary Cangos: Others mount on horseback, and the servants go a foot. All the Japanese officers of our Island, and several friends and acquaintances of the Japanese companions of our voyage, keep us com pany out of the town so far as the next Inn. Our train is not the same in the three several parts of our journey to court. In that part which we make by Land from Nagasaki to Kokura, travelling over the Island Kiusju, it may amount with all the servants and footmen, as also the gentlemen, whom the Lords of the several provinces, we pass through, send to compliment us, and to keep us company during our stay in their dominions, to about an hundred persons. In our voyage by Sea- it is not much less, all the sailors and watermen taken in. But in the last part of our journey, when passing over the great Island Nipon we go from Osacca to Jedo, it is considerably greater, and consists of no less than an hundred and fifty people, and this by reason of the presents and other goods, which carne from Nagasaki as far as Osacca by Sea, but must now be taken out and    [ 441]    carried by land to Jedo by horses and men. All our heavy baggage is commonly sent away some hours before we set out ourselves, lest it should be a hindrance to us, as also to give timely notice to our landlords of our arrival.

Our day's journies are very long and considerable, for . we set out early in the morning, and save only one hour, we rest at dinner, travel till evening, and sometimes till late at night, making from ten to thirteen Japanese miles a day. In our voyage by sea we put into some harbour, and come to an anchor every night, advancing forty Japanese water-leagues a day at farthest.

We are better treated, and more honourably receiv'd, 4 every where in our journey over Kiusju, than we are upon the great Island Nipon, and in general, we have much more civility shewn us by strangers, I mean by the natives of Japan, than by the Nagasakian companions of our voyage, and our own servants, who eat our bread, and travel at our expence. In our journey across the Island Kiusju, we have nearly the same honours and civility done us by the Lords of the several Provinces, we pass thro', which they shew only to travelling Princes and their retinues. The roads are swept and clean'd before us, and in cities and villages they are water'd to lay the dust. The common people, labourers and idle spectators, who are so very troublesome to travellers upon the great Island Nipon, are kept out of the way, and the inhabitants of the houses, on either side of the roads and streets, see us go by, either sittinz in the back-part of their houses, or kneeling in the fore-part behind the skreens, with great respect and in a profound silence.

The Princes and lords of the Island Kiusju, whose dominions we are to pass thro', send one of their noblemen to compliment us, assoon as we enter upon their territories; but as he is not suffer'd to address us in person, he makes his compliment in his master's name to the Bugjo, or Commander in chief of our train, and to the chief Interpreter, offering at the same time, what horses and men we want for us and our baggage. He likewise orders four footmen to walk by every I)utchman's side, and two Gentlemen of some note at his court, who are clad in black silk with staffs in their hands to preceed the whole train. After this manner they lead us thro' their master's territories, and when we come to the limits thereof, the Tapanese companions of our voyage are by them treated with Sacki and Sokana, and so they take their leave. For our passage over the harbours of Omura and Simabara, the Lords of these two places lend us their own pleasurebarges, and their own watermen, besides that they furnish us with abundance of provisions, without expecting even so much as a small present in return for their civil and courteous behaviour; and yet our thievish Interpreters never miss to lay hold of this advantage, putting this article upon our account, as if we had actually been at the expence, and they commonly put the money in their pocket. In our whole journey over Saikokf, from Nagasaki to Kokura, every body we meet with shews us    [ 442]    and our train that deference and respect, which is due only to the Princes and Lords of the Country. Private travellers, whether they travel on foot, or on horseback, must retire out of the way, and bareheaded humbly bowing wait in the next field, till our whole retinue is gene by. Those who will not pay us this respect willingly, and of their own free choice, are compell'd to do it by the officers aforesaid, who preceed our train. Peasants and common foottravellers, generally speaking, are so civil as to retire out of the way into the next field, before they are compell'd to it, and there they wait bareheaded and prostrate almost flat to the ground, till we are gone by. I took notice of some country people, who do not only retire out of the way, but turn us their back, as not worthy to behold us, which same respect is paid in Siam to the women of the King's Seraglio, and indeed almost all over the East-Indies to persons of a superior rank. In Japan it is the greatest mark of civility a native can possibly shew us, whether it be out of respect for the Supreme Majesty of the Empire, into whose presence we are a-going to be admitted, or as our interpreters would fain persuade us, out of deference to the Bugjo, as representing the authority of the Imperial Governors of Nagasaki. Howbeit, thus much is certain, that none or but few of these publick marks of honour and respect are shewn us in our journey over the great Island Nipon.

Farther, as to what concerns our accommodation on the road, the same is for our money as good as we could possibly desire, with regard to the carriage of us and hR of our baggage, the number of Horses and Men provided for the same, the Inns, lodgings, eating, and attendance. But on the other hand, if we consider the narrow compass of liberty allow'd us, we have too much reason to complain. For we are treated in a manner like prisoners, deprived of all liberty excepting that of loolzing about the Country from our Horses, or out of our Cango's, which indeed 'tis impossible for them to deny us. Assoon as a Dutchman alights from his Horse, (which is taken very ill, unless urgent necessity obliges him to do it) he that rides before our train, and the whole train after him must stop suddenly; and the Dosen and two Baily's must come down from their Horses, to take immediate care of him: Nay they watch us to that degree, that they will not leave us alone, not even when nature obliges us to drop our needs. The Bugjo, or Commander in chief of our train studies day and night not only the contents of his instructions, but the Journals of two or three preceding voyages, that none of his care and application should be wanting, exactly and step for step to follow the actions and behaviour of his Predecessors. 'Tis look'd upon as the most conxrincing proof of his faithfulness and good conduct still to exceed them. Nay some of these blockheads are so capricious, that no accident whatsoever can oblige them to go to any other Inns, but those we had been at the year before, should we upon this account be forc'd in the worst weather, with the    [ 443]    greatest inconveniency, and at the very peril of our lives, to travel till late at night.

We go to the same Inns, which the Princes and Lords of the Country resort to in their own Journeys to the Imperial Court, that is to the very best of every place. The apartments are at that time hung with the colour and arms of the Dutch East-India Company, and this in order to notify to the neighbourhood by the Livery, who they be that lodge there, as is customary in the Country. We always go to the same Inns, with this difference only, that upon our return from Jedo, we lie at the place we din'd at in going up, by this means equally to divide the trouble, the Inn-keepers must be at upon our account, which is much greater at night than at dinner. We always take up our lodging in the back apartment of the House, which is by much the pleasantest, because of the view into a curious garden. It is also otherwise reckon'd the chief, by reason of its being the remotest from the noise and tumult of the street and forepart of the House.

The Landlord observes the same customs upon our arrival, which he doth upon the arrival of the Princes and Lords of the Empire. He comes out of the Town or i village into the fields to meet us and our train being clad X in a Camisimo or garment of ceremony, and wearing a short scimiter stuck in the girdle. In this dress he addresses every one of us, making his compliments with a low bow, which before the Norimons of the Bugjo, and our Resident, is so low, that he touches the ground with his hands, and almost with his forehead. This done, he hastens back to his house and receives us at the entry of the same a second time, in the same manner, and with the same compliments.

As soon as we are come to the Inn, our guardians and keepers carry us forthwith across the house to our apartments. Nor indeed are we so much displeas'd at this, since the number of spectators, and the petulant scoffing of the children, but above all the troubles of a fatiguing journey, make us desirous to take our rest, the sooner the better. We are otherwise, as it were, confin'd to our apartment, having no other liberty allow'd us, but to walk out into the small, but curious garden, which is behind the house. All other avenues, all the doors, windows and holes, which open any prospect towards the

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any other person presume to come into our apartment, unless it be by their leave, and in their presence. In their absence they commit this care to some of their own or our servants, tho' all the companions of our voyage in general are strictly charg'd to have a watchful eye over us. Those who exceed their fellow-servants in vigilance and good conduct, are by way of encouragement permitted to make the voyage again the next year: Otherwise they stand excluded for two years.

As soon as we have taken possession of our apartment, in comes the landlord with some of his chief male domesticks, each with a dish of tea in his hand, which they present to every one of us with a low bow, according to his rank and dignity, and repeating with a submiss deepfetch'd voice, the words, ah, ah, ah! They are all clad in their compliment gowns, or garments of ceremony which they wear only upon great occasions, and have each a short scimeter stuck in their girdle, which they never quit, so long as the company stays in the house. This done, the necessary apparatus for smoaking is brought in, consisting of a board of wood or brass, tho' not always of the same structure, upon which are plac'd a small fire pan with coals, a pot to spit in, a small box fill'd with tobacco cut small, and some long pipes with small brass heads; as also another japan'd board or dish, with Socano, that is, something to eat, as for instance, several sorts of fruits, figs, nuts, several sorts of cakes, chiefly Mansie, and rice cakes hot, several sorts of roots boil'd in water, sweet-meats, and other trumperies of this kind. All these several things are brought in, first into the Bugjo's room, then into ours. As to other necessaries, travellers may have occasion for, they are generally serv'd by the housemaids, if they be natives of Japan. These wenches also lay the cloth, and wait at table, taking this opportunity to engage their ghuests to farther favours. But 'tis quite otherwise with us. For the landlords themselves, and their male domesticks, after they have presented us with a dish of tea, as abovesaid, are not suffer'd, upon any account whatever, to approach or to enter our appartments, but whatever we want, 'tis the sole business of our own servants to provide us with the same.

There are no other spitting pots brought into the room but that which came along with the tobacco. If there be occasion for more, they make use of small pieces of Bambous, a hand broad and high, being saw'd from between the joints, and hollow'd. The candles brought in at night, are hollow in the middle; the wick, which is of paper, being wound about a wooden stick, before the tallow is laid on. For this reason also the candlesticks have a punch or bodkin at top, which the candles are fix'd upon. They burn very quick, and make a great deal of smoak and stink, because the oil or tallow is    [ 445]    made out of the berries of bay-trees, camphire-trees, and some others of this kind. 'Tis somewhat odd and ridiculous to see the whirling motion of the ascending smoke follow'd by the flame, when the candle is taken ofl~ from the punch at the top of the candlestick. Instead of lamps they make use of small flat earthen vessels, fill'd with train oil made of the fat of whales, or with oil made of cotton seed. The match is made of rush, and the abovesaid earthen vessel stands in another fill'd with water, or in a square lanthorn, that in case the oil should by chance take fire, no damage might therefrom come to the house. What obliges them to be very careful, is the great havock, fires make in this country, where the houses are all built of wood.

The Japanese in their journeys sit down to table thrice a day, besides what they eat between meals. They begin early in the morning and before break of day, at least before they set out, with a good substantial breakfast; then follows the dinner at noon, and the day is concluded with a plentiful supper at night. Their table is spread, and their victuals dress'd after the fashion of the country, which I have describ'd elsewhere. It being forbid to play at cards, they sit after meals drinking and singing some songs to make one another merry, or else they propose some riddles round, or play at some other game, and he that cannot explain the riddle, or loses the game, is oblig'd to drink a glass. 'Tis again quite otherwise with us in this respect, for we sit at table and eat our victuals very quietly. Our cloth is laid, and the dishes dress'd after the European manner, but by Japanese cooks. We are presented besides by the landlord, each with a Japanese dish. We drink European wines, and the rice-beer of the country hot. All our diversion is confined in the day time to the small garden, which is behind the house, at night to the Bagnio, in case we please to make use of it. No other pleasure is allow'd us, no manner of conversation with the domestics, male or female, excepting what through the connivance of our Inspectors, some of us find means to procure at night in private and in their own rooms.

s When every thing is ready for us to set out again, the landlord is call'd, and our Resident, in presence of the two Interpreters, pays him the reckoning in gold, laid upon a small board. He draws near in a creeping posture, kneeling, holding his hands down to the floor, and when he takes the table which the money is laid upon, he bows down his forehead almost quite to the ground, in token of submission and gratitude, uttering with a deep voice the word, ah, ah, ah! whereby in this country inferiors shew their deference and respect to their superiors. He then prepares to make the same compliment to the other Dutchmen, but our Interpreters generally excuse him this trouble, and make him return in the same crawling posture. Every    [ 446]    landlord hath two Cobangs paid him for dinner, and three for supper and lodgings at night. For this money he iS to provide victuals enough for our whole train, the horses, the men that look after them, and the porters only excepted. The same sum is paid to the landlords in the cities, where we stay some days, as at Oosaka, Miaco, and Jedo, viz. five Cobangs a day, without any further recompence; a small matter ind'eed, considering that we must pay double for every thing else we want.

The reason of our being kept so cheap as to victuals and lodging is, because this sum was agreed on with our landlords a long while ago, when our train was not yet so bulky as it now is. The landlords upon Saikaido, in our journey from Nagasaki to Kokura, receive only a small matter by way of reward for the trouble we give them, for our own cooks take care to provide themselves what is requisite for our table. It is a custom in this country, which we likewise observe, that guests before they quit the Inn, order their servants to sweep the room they lodg'd in, not to leave any dirt or ungrateful dust behind them.

From this reasonable behaviour of the landlords, on our behalf, the reader may judge of the civility of the whole nation in general, always excepting our own officers and servants, and the companions of our voyage. I must own, that in the visits we made or receiv'd in our journey we found the same to be greater than could be possibly expected from the most civiliz'd nation. The behaviour of the Japanese, from the meanest countryman up to the greatest Prince or Lord, is such that the whole Empire might be call'd a School of Civility and good manners. They have so much sense and innate curiosity, that if they were not absolutely denied a free and open conversation and correspondence with foreigners, they would receive them with the utmost kindness and pleasure. In some towns and villages only we took notice, that the young boys, who are childish all-over the world, would run after us, call us names, and crack some malicious jests or other, levell'd at the Chinese, whom they take us to be. One of the most common, and not much different from a like sort of a compliment, which is commonly made to Jews in Germany, is, Toosin bay bay, which in broken Chinese, signifies, Chinese, have ye nothing to truck?

To give the reader an Idea of the expences of our Journey to court, I will here set down the chief articles express'd in round sums and Rixdollars. For victuals and lodging at 50 Rixdollars a day, in our journey by land, makes in two month's time     3000

For 40 horses, and so many men, to carry our baggage from Osacca to Jedo, which number is greater in going up to court and less upon our return, a 15 Thails a horse, and 6 Thails a man, as hath been agreed on of old, (half of which money the Interpreters put in their pockets,) amounts to    3000    [ 447]     

A sum of money divided among our retinue, to bear some extraordinary expences of the journey, of which every Dutchman receives 54 Thails, and the others more or less, according to their office and quality, amounts to about      1000

For hiring a barge (or if she be ours, for building her) 420 Thails, to the sailors 50 Thails: For the cabin-furniture and tackle 90 Thails: For maintaining and repairing the said barge 40 Thails; amounts in all to 600 Thails,

For victuals, drink, tea, tobacco and other necessary provisions for our voyage by sea   1000

For the usual presents in money; as for instance, to the Bugjo or Commander in chief of our train, 30c Thails, or 500 Rixdollars, and much the same to the Innkeepers, their sons and domesticks at Osacca, Meaco, and Jedo, in all  1000

Hire for the Norimon-men, as also for the Cangos, we make use of instead of horses, in order to be carried over mountains and bad roads, as also to visit certain Temples and pleasurehouses: For passage-money to be ferry'd over rivers and harbours: For some extraordinary expences and presents, whether necessary, or for our diversion, may amount in all to     2000

Presents to be made to his Imperial Majesty, of little value indeed for so powerfill a Monarch, but what, if sold, would bring in a sum of at least 2500 Presents to be made to fourteen of the Prime Ministers, and chief Officers of the Imperial Court at Jedo; to the two Governors of that city; to the chief judge at Meaco, as also to the two Governors of that city, and of the city of Osacca These presents consist in some foreign commodities, and are but a trifle to every one of them, but brings us to an expence of at least 3000 Presents to the two Governors of Nagasaki, which they receive before our departure in raw silk and stuffs, which they sell again to very good advantage, make to us a sum of     2500

Sum total of all the Expences of our journey 20000 or about 4oooL. sterling.

Before I proceed to the Journal of our Journey to the Imperial Court, it may not be amiss to observe, that it is not an indifferent matter to travellers in this country, what day they set out on their journey. For they must chuse for their departure a fortunate day, for which purpose they make use of a particular table, which they say hath been observ'd to hold true by a continued experience of many ages, and wherein are set down all the unfortunate days of every month, upon which, if travellers were to set out on any journey, they would not only expose themselves to some    [ 448]    inconsiderable misfortune, but likewise be liable to lose all their expences and labour, and to be disappointed in the chief intent of their journey. However the most sensible of the Japanese have but little regard for this superstitious table, which is more credited by the common people, the Mountain-Priests, and Monks. A copy of this table is printed in all their road and housebooks, and is as follows.

A Table shewing, what Days of the month are unfortunate and improper to begin a jowney, invented by the wise and experienc'd Astrologer Abino Seimei.

Month.

         I.     7.

2. 8.

3- 9

4. so.

5.    II.

6. 12.

Unfortunate Days.

 3.   II.    19.   27-

         2.    I0.    I8.    26.

         I.     9     I7.    25.

         4.    I2.    20.   28.

         5.    I3.    2I.    29.

         6.    I4.    22.   30.

To give the more weight and authority to this table, they say, that it was invented by the aforesaid Astrologer Seimei, a man of great quality and very eminent in his art. He was born a Prince. King Abino Jassima was his father, and a Fox his mother. Abino Jassima was married to this fox upon the following occasion. He once happen'd with a servant of his to be in the temple of Inari, who is the God and Protector of the foxes, mean while some courtiers were hunting the fox without doors, in order to make use of the Lungs for the preparation of a certain medicine. It happen'd upon this that a young fox, pursued by the hunters, fled into the temple, which stood open, and took shelter in the very bosom of Jassima. The king unwilling to deliver up the poor creature to the unmerciful hunters, was forced to defend himself and his fox, and to repell force by force, wherein he behav'd himself with so much bravery and success, that having defeated the hunters, he could set the fbx at liberty. The hunters ashamnd, and highly offended at the courageous behaviour of the King, seiz'd in the height of their resentment an opportunity, which offer'd to kill his royal father. Jassima muster'd up all his courage and prudence to revenge his father's death, and with so much success, that he kill'd the traitors with his own hands. The fox to return his gratitude to his deliverer, appear'd to him after the victory, which he obtain'd over the murderers of his father, in the shape of a Lady of incomparable beauty, and so fired his breast with love, that he tooksher to his wife. 'Twas by her he had this son, who was endow'd with divine wisdom, and the precious gift of prognosticating, and foretelling things to come. Nor did he know, that his wife had been that very fox, whose life he sav'd with so    [ 449]    much courage in the temple of Inari, till soon after her tail and other parts beginrfing to grow, she resum'd by degrees her former shape.

This is not one of the least considerable of the histories of their Gods. And I must take this opportunity once for all to beg the Reader's pardon, if in the account of our journey to court I shall trouble him, as occasion shall require, with other stories of the same kind, there being scarce any thing else worth observing, that relates to the antiquities of this country. Senmei not only calculated the abovemention'd table, by the knowledge he acquir'd of the motions and influence of the stars, but as he was at the same time a perfect master of the Cabalistic Sciences, he found out certain words, which he brought together into an Uta, or Verse, the sound and pronunciation whereof is believed to have the infallible virtue of keeping off all those misfortunes, which upon the days determin'd in the said table to be unfortunate, would otherwise befal travellers. This was done for the use and satisfaction of poor ordinary servants, who have not leisure to accommodate themselves to this table, but must go when and wherever they are sent by their masters. The verse itself is as follows.

Sada Mejesi Tabiaatz Fidori Josi Asijwa Omojitatz Figo Kitz Nito Sen.

 

Chap. VII. Our Journey by Land from Nagasaki to Kokura.

Saturday the tenth of February 1691, Mr. Von Butenheim Director, of our trade, and Ambassador to the Emperor's Court, went to take his leave of the two Governors of Nagasaki, with the usual formalities and attendance, and to recommend the Dutchmen, who were order'd to stay at Desima, to their favour and protection. The two following days we were busy with packing up our baggage, and getting all our trunks and bales mark'd according to order, with small boards made and sign'd by the Japanese clerks of the Embassy. On Thursday Feb. 14. being the day of our departure, the two Governors of the City came over to Desima early in the morning, attended by their whole court, and having been treated as is usual upon this occasion, they accompanied us between eight and nine of the clock out of our Island, where we took our leave of our remaining countrymen, and then set out on our journey. 'Tis a journey of about 200 German Miles, to go from Nagasaki to Jedo. We pass thro', or see at some distance, 33 large cities with castles, 75 small towns not fortifynd and boroughs, besides innumerable villages and hamlets. The first part of our journey is over the Island Saikofk thro' the Provinces Fisen,    [ 450]    Tsikungo, Tsikusen, and Busen to Kokura This takes in 55 Japanese and about 22 German miles, which are divided into the following day's journies, from Nagasaki to Sonongi 10 miles, from thence to Orda 11 miles, from thence to Sangen 4 miles, to Taisero 11 miles, to Itzka 10 miles, and from thence to Kokura 13 miles. In the Province Fisen I found the miles to be of an hour's moderate riding or strong walking each, but in the other provinces only of three quarters of an hour. Five water leagues make three land-miles upon the coasts of Japan. But in more distant seas they compute, that two leagues and a half make a Dutch league. An ordinary mile contains the length of thirty six streets, but the miles in the Province Isje each fifty. The length of a street is of sixty Ikins, or Mats, and at Wagasaki of 56. Montanus in his Japanese Embassy, p. 104, computes 25 Japanese miles for a degree, and 354 from Nagasaki to Jedo, to wit, 220 from Nagasaki to Osacca, and 134 from thence to Jedo.

Our train consisted of the following persons, who march'd in the following order.

First rode a Dosen, or with his more honourable title, a Deputy Bugjo, then his Deputy, a Bailiff of Nagasaki, then our Resident in his Norimon. After him follow'd our old chief Interpreter Joseimon, otherwise call'd Brasman, Abouts a merchant, Dr. Kaempfer and his assistant Dubbels, all on horseback. Next to them rode the Deputyinterpreter Trojemon, and his son as apprentice, after him another Bailiff of Nagasaki, all again on horseback. Last of all came the Joriki or Bugjo, Assagina Sandan Nosin, as head and commander in chief of our train, carried in his Norimon, with a led-horse before him, and his pike-bearer after him, carrying his pike of state, adorn'd at the upper end with a ball and a silver board, pendent from it, as a badge of the authority he is invested with by his masters. As soon as we enter another Province, this order is alter'd in some things. The annex'd figure, (Fig. 105) will give the reader a much better Idea than the most accurate description. Our cooks and their servants, with the necessary kitchin-furniture, as also two clerks of our train, set out always sometime before us, the first to take care, that every thing be ready at the Inn against our arrival, the others to keep an exact account of aal the expences of our journey, of our goods and baggage, of the number of horses and men employ'd to carry the same; as also to take notice, how many mlles we travel a day, what Inns we go to, and in general to take memorandums of whatever remarkable happens upon the road. The cooks and clerks are follow'd by our servants and footmen, the men who look after our horses, and some porters, who are to release each other by turns, all on foot. The horses, we rode, had each two trunks and an Adofski, and the mats, which we lie upon at night, were spread over them. Travellers on horseback sit cross legg'd, or in what other posture they please, or find it convenient. But of this I have treated more at large in the first chapter of this book. We were waited upon out of the town by numerous swarms of our other Interpreters, cooks, taylors and others    [ 451]    of our inferior officers and servants, as also by the sons, nephews, and relations of some of our chief officers, every one of whom expected an Itzebe at least from our Resident for the honour of his company.

The way through Nagasaki is steep and troublesome going all up hill. Having got through the town, we came to a small village call'd Mangome, not far from the place of execution, and on this account, inhabited by leathertanners, who do the office of publick executioners in this country. Here we staid a little while in a small house belonging to the keeper of our bargle, where our Interpreters and some of our officers and servants, who had favour'd us with their company out of town, treated us with a glass of Sacki and Soccana. These beggars, far from being satisfynd with the handsome return we made them for this their unnecessary civility, caused several young boys to be presented by the Interpreters to our Resident, withal acquainting him, how nearly they were related to him. All these several particular compliments and honours, shewn us upon our departure, consumed such quantities of Itzebos and Silver Bontzes, as upon a very moderate computation amounted to the value of at least an hundred Thails. Having staid about an hour at this place, we proceeded on our journey, and after an hour and a half's riding came to the village Urakami. Half an hour after we saw a stone pillar, or boundstone, about a fathom and a half high, with characters cut upon it, importing, that the boundaries of the territories of Nagasaki and Omura are there. About an hour after we came to the village Tockitz, upon the bay of Omura, three miles from Nagasaki. We din'd here, and tho' we had brought our own provisions along with us, and had caus'd them to be dress'd by our own cooks, yet they made us pay for Sacki and other trifles, which we neither saw nor tasted, thirteen Thails. We dismiss'd also here, with presents, some relations and acquaintances of our Joriki, who wou'd needs keep him company so far as Tokitz. The way from Nagasaki hither is very rough and uneven, stony and mountainous, as is also the whole country thereabouts. Some fruitful valleys run between the hills, and the hills themselves are, through the industry of the Inhabitants, cultivated up to their tops. Scarce any thing remarkable occurr'd between Nagasaki and Tockitz. However to omit nothing, I must take notice, that coming out of Nagasaki we saw the Idol of Dsisos, who is the God of the roads and protector of travellers, hewn out of the rock in nine different places. Another of the same sort stood not far from the village Urakami, being about three foot long, adorn'd with flowers and Fannaskibba, and plac'd upon a fathom high stone pillar. Two other smaller stone pillars, hollow at top, stood before the Idol: Upon these were plac'd lamps, which travellers light in honour of this Idol. At some small distance stood a bason full of water, for those to wash    [ 452]    their hands, who had a mind to light the lamps, or to offer any thing to the Idol. Just before we came to Urakami, a stately Toori presented itself to our view, being a gate leading to a Camitemple, as was express'd in a table standing at top of it. (The better to understand the following account of our journey to Kokura, the reader is desir'd to consult Fig. 137)

At Tokitz we were met by the steward of the houshold of the Prince of Omura, who in the name of his Master offered us, out of respect for the Emperor and without any consideration, all possible assistance to forward our journey, and acquainted us, at the same time that two Feifeneers, or pleasure-boats, lay ready to carry us over the bay to the village Sinongi, which is seven miles and a half distant from Tokitz. These pleasure boats were built of wood, after the fashion of the country, strong but neat. They were row'd each by fourteen watermen, clad in blue gowns with white lines running across. The Prince's flag stood upon the stern, with his coat of arms, being a rose of five leaves in a blue field. Before the flag was plac'd the usual badge of superior authority, being a bunch of cut paper tied to the end of a long staff, next to which the Bugjo planted his pilre, and then one of the Prince's clerks seated himself on one, and the Pilot on the other side. The Bugjo and our Resident took possession of the two cabins. We went on board in the afternoon about half an hour after two, and arriv'd at Sinongi at half an hour after six, having travell'd to day ten Japanese miles. 'Tis fifteen miles travelling by land from Tokitz to Sinongi, because of the going about the bay of Omura. This bay is very shallow, and not at all fit for large ships to ride in. It runs W S W and hath the tide, and a communication with the Sea by a narrow streight. We saw the town of Omura the residence of the Prince, situate on the harbour, about two miles off on our right. Behind Omura we took notice of a smoaking mountain, which probably was that near Usen. There are shells in this bay, which yield pearls. Formerly a rich gold sand was found along the coasts, which are now fallen in, the Sea having gain'd ground. Omura belongs to the great province Fisen, as do also Nagasaki, Firando, Gotho, Urisijno, Ficassari, and several other smaller districts, all which were formerly govern'd by the King of Fisen. Nay, 'tis a common tradition among the Japanese, that in ancient times the whole Island Kiushu, which makes nearly a fourth part of the Empire of japan, was govern'd by one monarch.

We left Sinongi on Wednesday February 14, early in the morning, and after an hours riding we pass'd by a large camphire tree famous for its uncommon largeness. The trunk seem'd to have no less than six fathoms in circumference, but was hollow within. What the Japanese relate of this tree, that it cannot be measur'd about is true so far, as it stands at the top of a hill. A mile further, having rode    [ 453]    about the foot of the mountain Tawara, we came to the borders of Omura, and enter'd into the small district of Urisijno, govern'd by a prudent and generous Lord, who having been ask'd for an hundred men, freely and generously offer'd double that number. Ten men swept the roads before us, till we came to a village of that name, where we found fresh horses with three men each, and two of that Lord's Gentlemen in quality of Bugjo, and Deputy Bugjo, to conduct us thro' his Dominions.

Not far from the village, on the side of a small river, which falls down from a neighbouring hill, is a hot bath, famous for its vertues in curing the pox, itch, rheumatism, lameness, and several other chronical and inveterate distempers. This Bath we had leave to see. I found the place rail'd in with Bambous in a very handsom manner. Within the inclosure was a watch-house, and a small booth for the guests to divert themselves. Along one side of the rails was built a long room or gallery, divided into SlX smaller rooms, or baths, all under one roof. Every bath was a mat long and broad, and had two cocks, one to let in cold, the other hot water, and this in order that every body might mix it to what degree of heat they can best bear. At the side of this long room was a place for the guests to repose themselves, cover'd with a thatch'd roof. The well was likewise cover'd with a small square thatch'd roof. It is not very deep, but the water bubbles out with great vehemence and noise, and is withal so hot that none of our retinue had courage enough to dip his fingers into it. I found it had neither smell nor taste and therefore made no scruple to assign its vertues meerly to its heat. The man that shew'd us the place, in order to convince us that there was something extraordinary in this water, pluck'd down a branch of a Camphire-tree (which stood hard by and was about the bigness of a large oak, being the second of an uncommon size we saw since we set out from Nagasaki) dipt it into the hot well, and then gave every one of us a leaf to chew, which made our mouth and tougue look as if they had been painted with a mix'd colour of green and yellow. Not far from the spring there were two other large baths for the use of poor people. I took notice, that a small brook of cold water, which runs hard by the place, smoak'd in some places, perhaps because of another hot spring in its bed. (Fig. 106.)

There are many more hot wells upon this Island, of the same and some, of stiU greater vertues. By my repeated and diligent enquiries, I could hear cmf the following: Jumotto is a hot bath in Arima, which they make use of to cure lameness: Another of the same vertue is at Tskakaki, in the Province Fisen. Another is at Obamma in the Province Simabara, situate not far from the coasts, and overflow'd in high water. This is but small, shallow, and hath a salt mineral taste, which they look upon in this country, as something very remarkable. About three miles from thence, at the foot of the famous mountain Usen, are several hot springs of this kind, within about an hundred paces circumference, all which have a    [ 454]    sulphurous smell, and are withal so hot, that no use can be made of them, unless they be mix'd and cool'd by a proportionable quantity of cold water. There was another Pond of warm water at Jamaga in Figo, but it is now dry'd up. I have mention'd some others in the 8th chapter of the first book, whither I refer the reader.

Having left this hot bath, we came in half an hour's time to the other part of Urisijno, and from thence after two hour's riding, (having past by a great number of houses, which we had to our left travelling along) to the village Swota, where we dined. They make here that sort of large earthen pots to hold water, which are made

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Fig 10. The retinue of the Dutch Ambassadorss in their journey to court, compos'd of the following persons. 1, 2. Dutch alld Japancse cooks, with the kitchin furniture. They always set out sometime before us. 3. Two guides appoillted by the Lords of several provinces to attend us in our passage thro' their dominions. 4. The train-master. 5. A led-horse of the Dutch Ambassador. 6 A Dosen, one of the Governor's soldiers of the second rank. 7. A chest with medicines. 8. A strong box with money. 9. The Dutch Ambassador in his Norimon, carried by four men alternately, with three servants to attend hlm. 10. The chief Interpreter carried in a Cango. 11. An apprentice of the Interpreter's on horsback, with one servant. 12. A Bailiff of Nagasaki 13. Two secretaries of the Embassv, each with one servant. 15. Dr. Kaempfer, as physician. 16. A Deputy Interpreter. 17. Another Baillif of Nagasaki 18. The led-horse of the Bugjo. 19. The Bugjo's pikebearer. 20. The Bugjo, or chief in hist Norimon, with several servants, carried alternately by three men. 21. Some of his friends taking leave of hlm. 22. Some of our friends from Nagasaki who keep us company two or three miles out of town. The train is preceded by two clerks.

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use of at Sea instead of casks, and are by the Europeans call'd Martuan, from the kingdom of Martan, where there is a great quantity of them made, and from thence exported all over the Indies. This commodity can be exported from Swota by water, a very large and commodious river running from thence Eastwards over a large plain into the gulf of Simabara. At this same place, as also at Urisijno, and upon the neighbouring hills and mountains, besides several other places up and down Fisen, is made the Japanese Porcellane, or China Ware, out of a whitish fat clay, which is found there in great plenty. This clay, altho' it be of itself good and clean, yet it requires nevertheless a good deal of kneading, washing and cleaning, before it is brought to that degree of perfection, that the dishes, pots, and other China Ware made of it, become transparent. This manufacture being so exceedingly laborious and troublesome, gave birth to the old fabulous saying, That humane bones are an ingredient of China Warc. Having stay'd about an hour at Swota, we set out again, crossing several rivers, some whereof are navigable, and going over wooden-bridges, we came, thro' the villages Narisij, and Wewaki, to the village Ooda, where we intended to lie that night, having travell'd to day from Sonogi to Ooda, eleven Japanese miles. Just at the entry of this village we saw a large monstrous head of an Idol, in the shape of a calf's-head, in a grated case, standing upon pales under a very large Camphire-tree, which was the third remarkable one for its uncommon largeness, we met with since our departure from Nagasaki. We travell'd this day mostly thro' pleasant fruitful valleys, and agreeable rice-fields. Round the latter were planted Teashrubs, for some paces from the road. These shrubs are not above two yards high, and make but a naked sorry appearance, when stript of their leaves, as they then were. The rice-fields we saw without this village on our right, seem'd to me to be by much the finest, one could set his eyes on in any part of the world. The whole Province Fisen is famous for producing rice, to a much greater quantity than any other Province in Japan, and they count ten differing sorts, which grow within its district, the best whereof grows about Omura, and is that very sort, which must be sent up to Jedo for the Emperor's own use. The Provinces of Cango and Finongo are next to that of Fisen, as to the beauty and fruitfulness of the rice-fields.    [ 455]    On Thursday Feb. 15th, we set out by break of day, and travell'd a good pace all day long, passing thro' Sanga, the capital of the Province Fisen to the village Todoroki, where we propos'd to lie that night, having made in all between ten and eleven Japanese miles. The country thereabouts was flat, full of rivers and rice-fields. The most remarkable places we pass'd thro', not to mention several small inconsiderable hamlets, were Torimatz, a long village, about half a mile from Ooda. Here we saw for the first time some women of Fisen, and it was a matter of surprize to us, to see short young women, which one might have mistook for young girls, with their own children, some sucking, some running after them. They were, as most others of this Province, short indeed, but well shap'd, of a handsome comely appearance, and agreeable genteel behaviour. They all paint themselves, which makes them look like so many Babies. When married, they pluck out the hairs of both eye-brows. About a mile from Torimatz is the large and long village Kongawamas. A large muddy river runs thro' the middle of it, and about four or five miles from thence looses itself into the Sea. A fine wooden-bridge is laid over it, and the river itself is seldom without some pleasure-barges and small boats rowing up and down. About a quarter of a mile further is the village Utsinsin, where we chang'd our Porters, Norimon and Cangos-men. About halr a mile further lies the village Botack. Next to this, at some small distance, is the large village Kasijnomas, which consists of three parts, or rather three smaller villages. The first, which is on this side of a large river, running S. E. is call'd Fooknamatz; the second, which is join'd to the first by a bridge of 150 paces in length, built over the aforesaid river, is call'd Jakimootzmas, and the third and last Fasijnomas. In the two first parts of this village, there are several good manufactures of silk-stuffs, and paper. Out of the same stuff, which they make paper of, they likewise spin a sort of yarn for making of sails. Between the second and third village we saw a man lying on the cross, who was executed for having in a violent passion strangled a young boy to death, with his handkerchief, only because he had reprimanded him for stealing some wood. The crosses in this country are made, as Lipsius relates in his Letters. A long cross-beam is placed at the upper end, on which are extended the arms, and another at the lower end for the feet of the malefactors. About the middle stands out another small piece of wood for them to sit on. They are not nail'd, but ty'd to the cross with ropes. A quarter of a mile from this village we came to the suburbs Onsijmatz, and soon after entered the city of Sanga. Sanga is the capital of the Province Fisen. The Prince, or Petty King of this Province, Matzendniro Fitzino Cami resides here in a large castle, which commands the city. This city is very large, but extends more in length than in breadth. It is exceedingly populous. Both going in and coming out, we found strong guards at the gates. It is enclos'd with walls and gates, but more for state than defence. The streets are Large, running streight    [ 456]    East and South, with channels and rivers running thro', which lose their waters into the Sea of Arima, as they call it, near a place of that name. The houses are but sorry and low, and, in the chief streets, fitted up for manufactures and shopkeepers. The shops are hung, for ornament's sake, with black cloth. The inhabitants are very short-siz'd, but well shap'd, particularly the women, who are handsomer and better shap'd, than I think in any other Asiatic Country, but so much painted, that one would bFe apt to take them for waxfigures, rather than living creatures. Their behaviour is otherwise genteel, and the lively colour of their lips is a proof of their healthy complexion. The country, for several miles round, is a fruitful plain cut through with channels and rivers, defended with sluices, which being open'd that part of the Country may be set under water at command, which very much quickens the growth of rice. In short Fisen is after the Province Cango, which produces both rice and corn, the most fruitful Province of all Japan, and would deserve, in my opinion, to be preferr'd to the fruitful Media, were it as well stor'd with cattle and fruit trees, of both which I could see but few. I took notice as of somewhat remarkable, that all this day we saw neither priests nor temples, excepting only one Toori with golden characters upon it, doubtless leading to some neighbouring Mia. It seems, that little regard is had in this province to the maintenance of priests and temples. Fisen is the largest province in Saikokf, and comprehends the dominions and districts of Nagasaki, Simabara, Omura, Arima, Sauda, Karatz, Firando, the Islands Goto, &c. Some of these still belong to the Prince of Fisen, but others have been taken from him by the Emperors, and given to other Princes, who now pay their homage, as do all the rest, by going up to court once a year. The Prince of Fisen however, to keep up his grandeur, hath still 40000 villages and hamlets subject to him. Satzuma, another province in Saikokf, is next to Fisen in extent, but far superior to it, and indeed to all others in this Island, in riches and power, having the best soldiers, and producing a great quantity of camphire. It hath also several rich gold and silver mines, the disposal whereof the Emperor reserv'd to himself. We pass'd through Sanga without stopping, and from our first entring the suburbs we were riding a moderate pace for an hour and a half till we got to the other end of the city. Without the city gates, I took notice of a long walk of fir trees, which run strait to S. E. for at least half a mile, so far as I could see. Here I saw for the first time two faulcons, which were carried as usual, by two men upon their hands; as also two storks perch'd upon trees in a small wood standing on a neighbouring hill. They seem'd to me to be something smaller, than our European storks are. I took notice, that the country people hereabouts plough with horses. A mile from Sanga is the village Farnomatz. From thence having pass'd through several small hamlets, and cross'd some rivers, we came about one in    [ 457]    the afternoon to the great village Kansacki, about two miles distant from Farnamatz, and seven from the place we lay at last night. It consisted of seven or eight hundred houses. We dined here, and having staid about an hour, set out again a fresh pace. The roads were all along clean and even, and fresh sand spread over them, in short as good as one could wish. Near four Japanese miles further we came to another large village Todoroki, consisting of about 500 houses, being the place we design'd to lie at, and the last villace in the province Fisen. Formerly our retinue us'd to tie at the village Taisero, about half a mile further. But an unlucky accident happen'd at that village about four years ago. For our Bugjo, or commander in chief, having had some quarrels with the chief Interpreter, and high words arising between them, he kill'd him upon the spot, and afterwards made away with himself. He design'd to have serv'd his Dosen, or deputy, in the same manner, but he escap'd with the loss of his hand, which the furious Bugjo cutt off in the height of his passion. Ever since it hath been order'd, that this place should be for the future avoided as fatal. We cross'd this afternoon some small rivers, and pass'd thro' several small villages, the chief whereof were Haddi, or Faddi, (it being not well possible to distinguish in the pronunciation of the natives the H from the F,) Nittanwah and Magabar. We pass'd likewise thro' a small, but very pleasant, wood of firrs, a rare sight in this flat part of the country. The trees were large and tall, but the nuts small, like Cypress-nuts. About an hour's riding from Magabar, we came to the foot of some neighbouring mountains, which we had to our left, but soon lost them again. From thence we saw on our right

 the castle of Kurume, being the Residence of the Prince of Tsikungo, about a mile distant. It appear'd all white from the colour of the walls, and seem'd to be a stately building.

On Friday Feb. the sixteenth, we set out betimes in the morning with fresh horses, and having pass'd through Urijino, a small hamlet, lying just without the gates of Todoroki, we came half a mile further to the above mention'd village Taisero, consisting of about five or six hundred houses, built in some few streets with gates. This village, along with its district, was some few years ago by the Emperor's order taken from the Prince of Fisen, and given to the Lord of Tsussima and Simabara, who till then had nothing in possession upon the continent of Japan, but was only Lord of-these two Islands Iki and Tsussima, which lie towards Corea. The Bugjo, who attended us in our passage through the dominions of the Prince of Fisen took his leave here, and was reliev'd by another sent by the Prince of Tsussima. Having chang'd our Horses in the street without stopping, we proceeded on our Journey, and passing some small Rivers, we came through Imamatz, Farda, Dsusancka, and some small hamlets to the village Jamaijo, which is three Japanese miles and a half distant from Taisero. Here we dined. Near    [ 458]    Dsusanska, the highway was divided into two separate roads, one of which went to our right towards Kurine, the other run to the left round some mountains towards Fakatto, the residence of the Lord of Tsikutsiu and Fakatto, lying about four Japanese miles off. The village Jamoijo reckons several hundred houses, within its compass, and is very well inhabited. It hath a large and handsome Inn, which we went to. Just before the village stood another large Camphire tree, the fourth of an uncommon largeness we met with in our Journey. After dinner we set out again in Cangos, because of the neighbouring hills and mountains, we were now to travel over, and which are not easily to be pass'd on horseback. It is a very incommodious way of travelling in these Cangos, they being like small square baskets, open on all sides and only cover'd with a small roof, to which is fastened the pole. Thus equipp'd they took us up, and carried us half a mile running to the foot of the mountain Fiamitz, two men being appointed to every Cangos. A mile up this Hill we came to a small village which hath no name, whose Inhabitants, they told us, were all descended of one man, who upon our coming there was yet alive. Whatever there be in this story, we found the Inhabitants of this village, handsome and well shap'd, and both in their conversation and manners so genteel and civil, as if they had been bred in a Nobleman's family. Having staid about half an hour in this village we went farther up hill for about a quarter of an hour, and then down again, a mile and a half to the village Utsijno, which signifies, In mountains. Here we staid about half an hour, and having taken something to refresh our selves, we exchang'd our Cango's for fresh horses, and so proceeded on our Journey passing some Rivers, and through several small villages, the chief whereof they call'd Tinto matz. In the evening we came to the village Itska, where we propos'd to lie, having travell'd this day ten Japanese miles. Itska consists of several hundred houses, and is well Inhabited. It lies on the other side of a river which is navigable for small boats. Our ambassador and whole train were forded through, but I obtain'd leave to walk over a long narrow wooden bridge, laid over it. We travell'd to day through variety of hills, mountains, woods bushes and desert places, this part of the Country being not unlike some woody and mountainous parts of Germany. We observ'd likewise that the shape and countenance of the Inhabitants were remarkably alter'd from what they are in the Province Fisen. But particularly the Inhabitants of the mountains we found contrary to expectation, extreamly civil and modest, we saw no cattle grazing any where all day long, excepting a few cows and horses for carriage and plowing. I took notice of two more storks, not unlike ours in Europe. In going down the mountain Fiamitz we found the fields enclos'd with    [ 459]    tea shrubs for about eight paces from the road. They make so much of the ground in this Country, that they won't allow even the tea any other room but just round their fields.

On Saturday Feb. 17th. Having to day a Journey of thirteen miles, to make, to wit, ten to Kokura by land, and three by water to Simonoseki, we set out before break of day with flamboys made of bambous shavings. We pass'd in the forenoon through Tababukro, a village of some hundred houses, and some small hamlets, we were also ferried over two shallow, rapid rivers in flat prows or boats, and having travell'd five small Japanese miles, we came to the village Kujanosse consisting of two or three hundred houses. The two rivers aforesaid united into one a little way on this side Kujanosse by which village, the united stream runs and is from thence call'd Kujanossegawa. After dinner we proceeded on our Journey with fresh horses, riding along the bank of this river for about half amile. Two miles farther we came to the village Kurosaki, which lies upon the Northern Gulf, as they call it, and consists of two or three hundred Houses or rather Cottages, as do also most of the smaller hamlets. We pass'd by some coal mines, which they shew'd us as something extraordinary. At Kurosaki we again mounted fresh Horses, and having travell'd a mile and a half we came to two other bound stones, or pillars with characters upon them, placed at about ten paces distance from each other, which separate the territories of Tsikusen and Kokura. A small mile further we came to Fijomi a small village very near Kokura, and from thence we enter'd the city of Kokura it self, attended by two Benjos, or Gentlemen of the Prince of Kokura his Court. We went strait to our Inn, which lies in the third and furthermost part of the City, on the other side of a bridge. It was abundantly furnish'd with all manner of necessaries, and is very agreeably seated, having a fine view over a large plain.

Kokura lies in the great Province Busen. It was formerly a wealthy and populous City, but since the Territories about it have been divided among several princes, it is much falln from its antient splendour. It lies not far from the coast, and extends for about a Japanese mile in length from East to west, making an oblong square figure. It consists of four parts a large castle, being the residence of the Prince, and three Towns or rather three parts of one Town separate from each other. The castle takes in a large square spot of ground and is surrounded with ditches and low walls, built of free stone up from the very foundation, and fortified, or rather adornd, according to the fashion of the Countrey, with wooden bastions, chiefly along the riverside. In the midle of the castle is the residence of the Prince, taken in with a neat white wall. It hath some few cannon planted upon a tower six stories high, the usual sign of Princely residences. In this castle resided, upon our arrival, Ungasawara ukon no Cami, Prince of    [ 460]    Kokura, and its small district. His yearly revenue doth not exceed 15 Mangokf. The City, and every part of it, is of a square figure. Every gate hath two large doors, and stands between two solid walls built of square stones. An open guard house built of wood stood next to each door, with three soldiers upon duty. There were also six pikes planted there, adorn'd at the upper end with bunches of black horse hair. Within we found three gentlemen gravely sitting, well clad, with their faces turn'd towards the door. The houses are small, and low, the streets broad and regular, running some South, others West. There are several large Inns and cook-shops in this City, with rais'd firehearths and grates, not unlike ours in Germany, as also with Bagnio's and curious gardens behind. A river runs through the City from South to North, separating its third and furthermost part from the two first and the castle, and then looses itself into the Sea. There were at least an hundred small boats, which lin'd the banks of this river on both sides. For it is so very shallow that large ships cannot come up, but must ride at anchor at Simonoseki. A large bridge about 200 paces long is built over it, with Iron rails supported by four strong wooden pillars, curiously adorn'd. The whole situation of this city will appear by the annex'd figure (Fig. 108) wherein a is the inner part of the castle, where the Prince resides, b the place round the residence, with gardens and houses belonging to the chief officers of the Prince's Court. c. The tower of the castle. D. the first, E, the second and F, the third part of the City. on our Larboard-side, at a very small distance. It lies upon the continent of Nipon, in the Province of Bingo, from whence it is call'd Bingono Toma, for distinction's sake from a village of the same name. It lies on a rising ground at the foot of the mountain, and consists of some hundred houses, which made a pretty good appearance, being built round the harbour, which is nearly semicircular. In the chief street, which runs along the harbour, there is a Mariam, or bawdy house, and two pleasant Temples. They fabricate here very fine mats and carpets, wherewith they cover the floors in this country, and which are exported from thence in great quantity into several other Provinces. Behind the City, in the ascent of the mountain, there is a fine monastery. About a quarter of a German mile before you come to the village, stands a famous temple of the idol Abbuto, which is said to be very eminent for miraculously curing many inveterate distempers, as also for procuring a favourable wind and good passage. For this reason sailors and passengers always tie some farthings to a piece of wood, and throw it into the Sea as an offering to this Abbutoquano Sama, or Lord God Abbuto, as they call him, in order to obtain from him a favourable wind. The priest of the temple, says, that these offerings never fail to drive on shore, and to come safe to his hands. However, for cautionzs sake, he comes out himself in still weather in a small boat, to ask this sort of tribute to his idol, of what ships and boats sail by. Just before this village lay an island full of wood and timber, as were in a great measure the neighbouring mountains. The wind continuing still favourable, we sail'd seven Japanese water miles further to a village call'd Sijreisi, situate upon a small Island on our Starboard-side. Here we dropt anchor an hour before sun-set, because if we had gone further, we could not have come soon enough to another good harbour. This village consists of about fifty houses It lies in a pleasant well cultivated valley, at the end of a harbour, which is open to the north. The God Kobodais, is worshipp'd in this island, in a cavern, at the top of a mountain just behind this village. There were besides ours twelve other barges cast anchor in the same harbour, all which following our example let down their masts upon deck to avoid being tossed in the night. We made to-day, the wind being favourable, in all eighteen water miles, sailing E. and N.E.

On Thursday Feb. 22. we weigh'd anchor by break of day, and having sail'd seven water miles between several small islands, we came to the town of Sijmotzi or Sijmotsui, situate upon the continent of Nipon, upon the rocky coasts of the Province Bitsju, at the foot of a mountain, which hath a row of fir-trees planted over its top, after the manner of other cultivated mountains, chiefly in the several Islands we pass'd by in our voyage from Simonoseki. This town consists of four to five hundred houses, and is divided into three parts, each govern'd by a Joriki. Opposite to it, on the right hand, stands a castle call'd Sijwos, built of free-stone, with a neighbouring small village. A view of Simodsi is represented in Fig. 110. Not far from thence we came in sight of another remarkable high Island call'd Tsusi Jamma, standing out of the water in form of a pyramid. We discover'd it already at Sijmotsi, bearing East, and being to steer Eastwards we stood in directly for it. The sea hereabouts began again to grow narrower, the Coasts of Nipon and Tsikoko drawing near one another. On our Larboard side, on the coasts of the abovemention'd Province Bitsju, we saw a large harbour, where some few barges lay at anchor. It was open and pretty much expos'd to southerly winds. There was a village on each side call'd Sijbi. Eight miles from thence, on the same northern coasts lies the large and fine village Sijmodo, or Usijmano, which is defended by a small fort. Seven miles further lies the well built castle Ako, which with its white ulal]s, high towers, and the town of Ako lying behind, offers to the eye a very pleasing and curious sight. The Coasts about it are very rocky, and seem to have no good anchor ground. It is the residence of a petty prince call'd Assino Tackomin, whose revenue doth not exceed five Mangokfs. About five in the evening we got into the famous harbour Muru, which is about three miles distant from Ako. We cast anchor there about twenty paces from the shore, amidst upwards of hundred other barges The wind continued still favourable. We had made to day in all twenty seven water miles. The harbour of Muru is not very spacious, but one of the safest in case of a storm, it being well defended by a mountain which runs out westward from the main continent, and covers a great part of it. Going in ships must steer N.E. then turn S.S. by E. in order to come to an anchor not far from the city. Great part of the harbour is enclosed with a strong wall built of free-stone. The situation of the city is very pleasant and agreeable. It is built along this wall and belongs to the Province Bisen. It consists of one long narrow street, which runs along the sernicircular shores, and some few others, which run backwards up towards the mountains. The number of houses may amount in all to about six hundred. It is inhabited chiefly by Sacki brewers, alehouse keepers and mercers, who can richly maintain themselves, because of the multitude of ships, which daily resort to this harbour. The city is govern'd by a Bugio. There is a famous manufactury here of horses hides, which they tan after the manner of Russian leather, and varnish. Several were offerwd us to sale at four Maas a piece. So nasty as this city is, and how mean soever its inhabitants, yet for their pleasure and diversion they keep a Mariam, or publick bawdyhouse. The neighbouring mountains are cultivated up to their tops, which view'd at a distance affords to the eye a very curious sight. The wood, which stands behind the city on one side of the mountain, which covers the harbour, representing a sort of a peninsula, makeS a very beautiful and agreeable variety in the prospect. It stands upon a stony ground, round it are built several round bastions, guard-houses, and other houses neatly built, and agreeably seated, for the officers and soldiers to live in. At the westend of the harbour, near the entry, stands a small fort, with a guard, built as it were for the defence of the harbour, as one would conjecture more by its having the form of a fort, and by ten pikes, and six halbards, which are planted in the front, than by the presence of soldiers. The hill, whereon this wood or fort stands, is join'd to the city by a small neck of land, but again separate from it by gates and walls, to prevent an unnecessary communication. We went into the city, attended, as usual, by our inspectors and guards, I mean the companions of our voyage. We were led through the house of a Sacki brewer into the long street, and in that to a Bagnio, there to wash and refresh ourselves. The house was full of guests, for besides the benefit of the bagnio the landlord sold likewise Sacki, and some eatables. Having well wash'd and refresh'd ourselves, we went back to our barge, and found the streets on both sides lin'd with multitudes of spectators, who came hither in flocks to see us go by, which they did, however, very respectfully kneeling, and without offering to make any the least noise. (A view of the town and harbour of Muru, and its castle, is represented in Fig.111.)

On Friday, Feb. 23. We weigh'd anchor by break of day, and row'd our barge for about 2000 paces, till we got out of the harbour to the main sea, and could make use of our sails. We went by the following places, all which we had on our Larboard side, as being situate upon the coasts of Nipon. Abosi is a city defended by some 29 forts; it hath a large Imperial warehouse, and is govern'd in the Emperor's name by a Bugio, who resides upon the place. There is also an Imperial steward resides there, to receive and take care of the Emperor's revenues. It lies upon the territories of the Prince of Farima. Fimesij or Fimedsi is another small town with a stately castle, the residence of Matzidairo Jamatto. The coasts about both these places are shallow and rocky. Takasango, or Takasanni, is another srnall town about seven miles distant they say hath very rich mines, yielding a good quantity of gold. We cast anchor in this harbour about one of the cloek in the afternoon, having advanc'd to day in all eighteen miles.

On Saturday February 24th, We left our great barge early in the morning, which could not well be brought as far as Osacca, because of the shallowness of the harbour of that city, and hir'd four small boats to bring us and our goods over to that place. We saw several remarkable towns and castles, as we went by, all situate upon the coasts of Nipon, as amongst others, the town and castle Amangasaki, which is but three leagues distant from Osacca. NVe saw also the Imperial city Sakai, bearing S. E. as we enter'd the River of Osacca, from which it is four Japanese water miles distant. Having made to day ten miles, we got as far as the mouth of the River of Osacca, and about eleven in the forenoon enter'd its navigable arm, steering E. S. E. We were receiv'd here by our landlord, who conducted us up the River in two stately boats. We pass'd by several new villages and small towns, or rather suburbs of Osacca, which had been built along the banks of this river for these several years last past, and amidst upwards of a thousand boats we enter'd the city it self, which is separate from the suburbs by two strong stately guard-houses, one on each side of the river. Having pass'd under six fine wooden bridges, we had leave at last to go on shore, and having walk'd up some stone steps, we turn'd into a narrow street, through which we were led to our Inn, which lies at one of the corners facing the great street, where we arriv'd between one and two of the clock in the afternoon. We were immediately conducted by our landlord into our several apartments in the upper part of the house, which we found, as usual, divided by standing skreens, and would have been commodious enough, if we had not been very much incommoded by the smoak, they knowing nothing in this country of chimnies. As soon as we arriv'd at our Inn, we sent our Interpreters to the two Governors of the City, to desire leave to wait upon them with some small presents. Nossi Ssemono Cami, one of the Governors, was gone to court, to lay before the Emperor, and his ministers of state, the necessary accounts of his transactions in his government. The other Odagiri Tassano Cami happen'd not to be at home, but sent us word in the evening, that he should be glad to see us the next morning at eight of the clock.

 

Chap. VIII. Our Voyage from Kokura to Osacca.

Having staid about an ht our Inn in Kokura, and sufficiently refresh'd ourselves with Japanese victuals, we left that city, attended by the two abovemention'd Gentlemen of the Prince of Kokura's Court. We went the nearest way to the Sea-side. in order to aboard two Kabajas, or small passage-boats, which were to bring us over from thence to Simonoseki. Coming out, we found the above-mention'd large bridge, and the square which was before our Inn, crowded with upwards of a thousand spectators, chiefly ordinary people, who came to see us go by. They lin'd both sides of the way, all kneeling and keeping a profound silence, no body presuming to stir, or oSering to make the least noise, probably out of respect to us, or to the Prince of Kokura, who was represented by the two gentlemen of his    [ 461]    court, who were order'd to attend us. We left Kokura amidst this numerous throng of people, and went on board our two passage-boats, about half an hour before sunset, and so bid farewell to the Island Kiusju, or as the common people call it, Nisijno Kuni, that is, the country of nine, it being divided into nine large Provinces. It is also call'd Saikokf, or the Western Country, bearing West to the great Island Nipon. Simonoseki lies but three small miles from Kokura. Our large barge, on board which we were to go to Osacca, and which had been dispatch'd thither about four weeks before our departure from Nagasaki, had not been there above five days before us. The small boat, on board which I went, was five hours working its passage over to Simonoseki, so that we came thither very late at night, and two hours after the other. The reason of this delay was our Pilot's missing his course, and running his boat aground several times. We all went to lie on board our large barge, and found every thing ready for our reception. In this small passage from Kokura to Simonoseki, tho' but a narrow streight, form'd by an Island call'd by some Kikusima, and by others Finosima, and the coasts of the Province Busen, are shewn several places remarkable in their histories for things that happen'd there in former times. On our right, upon the coasts of the Province Busen, within the district of Kokura, is a large green plain, or field planted with trees, and call'd Jamasima, which is as much as to say, Pearl-Island. Not far from it is an inhabited place call'd Dairi, because it was formerly the residence of the Dairi, or Ecclesiastical Hereditary Emperor, whose name it still retains. Between this place and the neighbouring Island Kikusima, which is not above a quarter of a mile distant, there is a rock stands out of the Sea, with a pillar or monument of stone upon it, call'd by the natives Joribe, which was set up in memory of a Pilot of that name, who undertook to carry over the great Emperor Taiko, when he came to subdue these Western Provinces, and to establish that form of Government which now obtains in this Empire. This Pilot having unfortunately put the Emperor into eminent danger near this very rock, did, to punish himself, or to prevent the punishment he apprehended for his carelessness and neglect, rip open his belly, to eternize which action, the Emperor order'd this monument to be set up. The same rock is farther famous for the death of an Emperor's son and heir of the crown in the time of the Civil NVars with the Ecclesiastical Hereditary Emperors. The thing happen'd as follows: Feki, or Fege, a Prince of great courage and personal bravery, having been several years engaged in a War with Gege, had at last, as courage and conduct are not always crown'd with success, the misfortune to be forc'd by his enemy to quit his residence Osacca, and to fly to Fijungo The unhappy Emperor could not long maintain himself m this place, but pursued by his enemy was forced to abandon it likewise, and soon after lost his life. The nurse of the Emperor's son, who was then but seven years of age, endeavour'd to make her escape with him by water, but having got so far as this rock, closely    [ 462]    pursued, and seeing it was absolutely impossible to avoid falling into the enemy's hands, she clasp'd the young prince between her arms, and with that courage and resolution, which is so peculiar to the Japanese nation, threw herself along with him into the Sea. It is mention'd in Japanese histories, that Fege, seeing his destruction approaching and almost unavoidable, sent seven ships laden with gold and silver to China, where after his death a stately temple was erected to his memory, as was another, (now call'd Amadais) at Simonoseki, to the memory of the untimely death of the unhappy prince his son.

Simonoseki is situate on a famous harbour at the foot of a mountain, in the province Nagatto, which is the futhermost Province to the West, upon the continent, or rather great Island Nipon. A narrow streight, not above a Japanese mile broad, is form'd by the coasts of this province, and those of the Island Kiusju. Nipon is the largest of the several Islands, which make up the Empire of Japan. Its shape is not unlike that of a jaw-bone, and it is divided into fifty two provinces: Two crreat roads cross it from one end to the other. The one broes from West to East, from Simonoseki over Osacca and Miaco to Jedo, along its Southern coasts: Part of this, to wit, from Simonoseki to Osacca, is made by water because the coasts between these two places are very mountainous. The other great road goes from Jedo, North and North East, to the extremities of the province Osju, for upwards of forty miles. The present Lord of Simonoseki, who is one of those that must make their appearance at court once a year, is call'd Mori Fidan no Cami. His residence is six miles from Nagatto. The Town of Simonoseki it self consists of four to five hundred houses, built chiefly on both sides of one long street, which runs quite through, there being but a few smaller streets, which turn off side-ways, and all terminate into this great one. The city is full of shops, wherein are sold victuals and provision for ships, which daily put in there in great numbers. Upon our arrival, there were no less than two hundred, great and small, lay there at anchor, it being the common harbour for ships bound from the Western provinces to the Eastern, or coming from these. We likewise saw here several neat stone-cutters who make inkhorns, boxes, plates, and several other things out of a grey and black serpentine stone, which is hewn in the quarries about the town.

On Sunday February 18, being the day after our arrival at Simonoseki, we lay still, partly to repose our selves from the fatigues of the preceeding journey, partly because of our being detain'd by contrary winds, which would not permit us to come out of the harbour. We spent the afternoon, viewing the abovemention'd shops of the Serpentine stone-cutters, and the temple Amadais, which egl. is famous throughout Japan, and was built in memory of that unhappy Prince, whose History I have above related. We were attended thither by two    [ 463]    officers of the town, to keep off the crowds of people. Having walk'd up twenty four steps, hewn out of a rough stone, we saw three small temples, standing before us, being but mean sorry structures of wood. The temple Amadais stood behind them on our left, as we came up. We were receiv'd before the temple by a young Priest, who carried us into a foreroom, or hall, hung with black crape, in like manner as they do their Theatres: Upon the midelle of the floor was laid a carpet interwoven with silver. It was in this room, the Image of the deceas'd Prince stood upon an altar. He was a fat jolly boy, with long black hair: All the Japanese of our retinue made their obeisances to him after the country fashion, bowing their heads down to the ground. On each side of the Prince stood the Images of two other Princes of the Imperial blood, as big as the life, and clad in black, after the fashion of the Dairi's court. The Priest, who conducted us thither' lighted a lamp, and then made a pathetical speech upon this tragical event, mean while he led us into another room adjoining to this, where he shew'd us gilt pictures of such other persons, as he had mention'd in his speech. From thence he brought us into a large handsome open apartment, being the hall of audience of the monastery. Whilst we enter'd this hall, in came also the prior of the monastery, an old, thin, grave looking man, and sate himself down on the floor. He was clad like the other priests, in a black crape gown. A silver ribbon hung down on his left side coming from the right shoulder, and behind his head, between the two shoulders, hung another square piece of the same stuff, both being marks of his priorship and authority in the monastery. Seeijng, that we did not come near him, nor take any notice of him, he rose again, and went out into the adjoining cells of the monastery, being small rooms, separate from each other by standing skreens. We left an Itzebe, (a piece of gold, worth about two Rixdollars and a half, or twelve shillings sterling) as a present to the monastery, and so were conducted by the abovesaid two officers of the town back to our Inn, where we were entertain'd with Japanese victuals, and having taken the diversion of our landlors Bagnio, we return'd on board our ship in the evening. There was also another temple built in memory of Fatzima, who was the founder and first inhabitant of this town, but being an indifferent small structure, we did not think it worth our while to spend any time upon it.

On Monday, February 19, we set out on our voyage to Osacca early in the morning. The first day's run being very long, and there being but two harbours to retire to in case of danger, one ltocko, the other Kadatz, neither of which is secure against a storm, and both very difficult to enter, we seldom set sail but with a settled Westerly wind. The whole voyage, from Simonoseki to Osacca, is suppos'd to be of I36 Japanese water miles. Others reckon it still more, the    [ 464]    diferent situation of the harbours, where we come to an anchor at night, and the variation of the winds, making-a considerable difference. Some of our Pilots gave me the following account of the distance of the several harbours from hence to Osacca.

 

Water-Miles.

From Simonoseki to the Island, harbour and village Caminoseki

35

From thence to the Island and village Kamagari

20

From thence to Tomu

18

From thence to the City and harbour Muru

30

From thence to the village and harbour Fiogo or Simongi

18

From thence to Osacca

13

From Simonoseki to Osacca. In all

134

The Account I had from others stands thus

 

From Simonoseki to Caminoseki

35

From thence to Camiro

7

From thence to Mitarei

18

From thence to Fanagari

5

From thence to Tomu

10

From thence to Sijrei

3

From thence to Sijmotz

7

From thence to Itzijmodo

10

From thence to Muru

10

From thence to Akasi

13

From thence to Fiogo

5

From thence to Osacca.

13

In all

136

All the several places abovemention'd, whose distances make up in all 136 Japanese water miles, or about 46 and a half German miles, have convenient and secure harbours, where ships may safely come to an anchor, and find shelter in stormy weather. However, we sail by most of them, leaving them on our left going up to Osacca, they being situate upon the main continent of the great Island Nipon. There are several other remarkable places, harbours, islands, towns, villages and hamlets upon and about the said great Island Nipon, which I shall forbear mentioning, referring the curious reader to the Ceneral map of Japan (see end of Vol. 111.) and to the particular map of our voyage to Osacca (Fig. 112.) Coming out of the streights of Simonoseki we must tack about for a few miles, whatever the wind be, till we begin to get clear of the coasts and to come to the main. We then advance tolerably well, if otherwise the wind be not contrary, and having got about half way we steer North-East in quest of Osacca. But our whole course is very irregular, by    [ 465]    reason of the several Islands both great and small, to our right and left, about or by which we sail, some whereof are fruitful and well cultivated, even to the tops of the mountains, with villages and good harbours, others barren and uninhabited. Osacca itself bears E. by N. to Simonoseki, which may be observed for correcting the maps of Japan. I found the declination of the magnetical needle at Osacca to be five degrees East. In this whole voyage we have the coasts of the great Island Nipon on our Larboard-side, at one or some few miles distance. On our Starboard-side we have, first the coasts of the Province Busjen, or Bungo, upon the Island Saikokf, next the Island Tsikokf, which is divided into four provinces; lastly the small Island and Province Awadsi. Thus much of our voyage to Osacca in general. It is now time to proceed to a more particular account thereof.

We set sail from Simonoseki early in the morning, with a brisk favourable gale, mixt with some small drizling rain. Having made about two miles, we came in sight of a large palace, built near the village Tannora, where the Princes of Saikokf in their journies to and from court usually lodge. Five miles farther we made the village and famous mountain Mottojamma. Here we begun to be a little more at large, the coasts of Saikokf turning off on our Starboard-side, and forming themselves with those of Nipon into a spacious open bayb Here we met upwards of an hundred ships under sail, all which had been forc'd by contrary Easterly winds to ride at Simonoseki for several days last past. VVe out-sail'd them all before evening, our ship being not only a better Sailor, but also better mounted. Having sail'd about eighteen miles, we lost sight of Saikokf, and soon after made a large island call'd Jwoissima. A little way further we got in sight of the high mountain Cassada Jamma which is about ten miles distant from Caminoseki. Here also we saw at a distance, the high snowy mountains of the Province Jjo, situate upon the large Island Tsikokf, which is divided into four large Provinces, and is computed to have 70 Japanese miles in length. Sailing further we came near the dangerous rocks call'd Sso Sine Kso, some of which are under water, others standing out. Pilots must be very careful to avoid them. We then enter'd a streight, which separates the continent of the Island Nipon from a neighbouring Island, and is withal so narrow, that we could not perceive that there was any passage at all, but took it for one continued coast, till we came near it. Going thro' there is on the Larboard-side a village call'd Moritzu, situate upon the Island Nipon, and on the Starboard-side another village call'd Caminoseki, upon an Island of the same name. Both villages consist of about fourscore houses, and are govern'd by a Cousin of the Prince of Imoo, they lying upon the extremities of his Province Nagatto. They were assign'd by him to his Cousin as an appennage. Just before the harbour there is a wooden Pharos, built upon a high rock, for the security of navigation thro' this streight in the nighttime. (A view of this streight and the villages Morizu and Caminoseki, see in Fig. 109.) This Island boasts of a great and    [ 466]    powerful Idol. The sea between Simonoseki and Caminoseki, which we had now pass'd without any sinistrous accident, is call'd Siwonada, that is, the harbour of Siwo, because it washes chiefly the coasts of the Province Suwo. From Caminoseki, the wind continuing still favourable, we sail'd seven miles further to Dsino Camiro, that is, Lower Camiro, and then cast anchor near eight of the clock at night, having made to day in all 45 Japanese water-miles. There were great number of other barges lay there at anchor along the coasts. Dsino Camiro is a village of about 100 cottages, and a few good houses. It lies upon the coasts of the Province Aki, at the end of a harbour enclos'd with mountains, and is so call'd by way of distinction from another village Okino Camiro, or Upper Camiro, which lies not far from it upon the same coasts. Dsino Camiro is well known to mariners, because of the good anchorground in the harbour there.

On Tuesday Feb. 20. It was calm in the morning, so that we made what way we could by rowing. We set out pretty early, and soon made the abovemention'd village Okino Camiro, consisting of about forty houses, and situate upon the eastern extremity of a small, but fruitful Island, whose hills and mountains, we took notice, were cultivated up to their very tops. About noon we made another Island Tsuwa, which we had on our Starboard-side. There is very safe riding at anchor upon the southern coasts of this Island, in an almost semicircular harbour, round which there are about two hundred houses. It was very pleasant to see the mountains, we

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    [ 473]

 

Chap. IX. Our Journey from Osacca to Miako, the Residence of the Ecclesiastical Hereditary Emperors, with a Description of both these Cities.

Osacca is one of the five great Imperial Cities. It is both commodiously and agreeably seated in the Province Setzu, in a fruitful Plain, and on the banks of a navigable river in 34o. 50o. of Northern Latitude. It is defended on the East end by a strong castle, and on the Western extremity by two strong stately guard-houses, which Separate it from its suburbs. Its length from West to East, that is, from the suburbs to the above-mention'd Castle, is between three and four thousand common paces. Its breadth is somewhat less. The river Jedogawa runs on the North-side of the City from East and West, and loses itself below the same into the Sea. This river con veys immense riches to this City, on which account it well deserves a short description. It arises a day and a half's journey from thence to N. E. out of a Midland-lake, situate in the Province Oomi, which according to Japanese Histories arose in one night's time, that spot of ground, which it now fills up, being sunk in a violent earthquake It comes out of this lake near the village Tsitanofas, where there is a double stately bridge laid over it which is double, because of a small Island, which lies between them, and upon which one of the two bridges ends, and the other begins. It then runs by the small towns Udsi and Jedo, from which latter it borrows its name, and so continues its course down to Osacca. About a mile before it comes to this city, it sends of one of its arms streight to the Sea. This want, if any, is supply'd by two other rivers, Jamattagawa and Firanogawa, both which lose themselves into it just before the city, on the Northside of the castle, where there are stately bridges laid over them. The united stream having wash'd one third of the city, part of its waters are convey'd thro' a broad canal to supply the South Part thereof, which is also the larger, and that where the richest Inhabitants live. For this purpose several smaller channels are cut out of the large one, thro' some of the chief streets. Other channels convey the waters back to the great arm of the river. These are deep enough to become navigable for small boats, which may enter the city, and bring the goods to the merchantxs doors. All these several channels run along the streets, and are all very regular, as also of a proportionable breadth. Upwards of an hundred bridges, many whereof are extraordinary beautiful, are built over them. Some indeed are muddy, and not too clean, for want of a sufficient quantity and run of water. A little below the    [ 474]    coming out of the abovemention'd canal, which supplies the city, another arm arises on the North-side of the great stream, which is shallow and not navigable, but runs down Westward with great rapidity, and at last loses itself into the Sea of Osacca. The middle and great stream still Continues its course thro' the city, at the lower end whereof it turns Brestward, and having supply'd the suburbs, and villacres, which lie without the city, by many lateral t.ranches, it at last loses itself into the sea thro' several mouths (Fig 11) This river is narrow indeed, but deep and navigable. From its mouth, up as far as Osacca, and hi(rher, there are seldom less than a thousand boats, going up and down, some with merchants, others with the Princes and Lords of the Empire, who live to the West of Osacca, when they go up to Court or return from thence. The banks are rais'd on both sides into ten or more steps, coursly hewn of freestone, so that they look like one continued stairs, and one may land wherever he pleases. Stately bridges are laid over the river at every three or four hundred paces distance, more or less, all which are built of sound and withal the best cedar-wood of the country. They are rail'd on both sides, and some of the rails adorn'd at the top with brass-buttons. I counted in all ten such bridges, three whereof are particularly remarkable because of their length, being laid over the great arm of the river, where it is broadest. The first and furthermost to the East is sixty fathoms long, and rests upon thirty arches, each supported by five, or more strong beams. The second is exactly the same as to its dimensions. The third goes over both arms of the river,

Where it divides into two. This hath 150 paces in length. I:rom thence to the further end of the city there are seven more, which decrease in length, as the river grows narrower, and are from twenty to sixty fathoms long, proportionably resting upon thirty to ten arches. The streets in the main, are narrow, otherwise regular, and cutting each other at right-angles, as they run some southwards, me westwardsw From this regularity however we must except that part of the city, which lies towards the sea, because the streets there run W. S. W. along the several ranches of the river. The streets are very neat, tho' not pav'd. However, for the conveniency of walking, there is a small pavement of square stones runs along the houses on each side of the street. At the end of every street are strong gates, which are shut at night, when no body is suffer'd to pass from one street to another, without special leave and a passport from the Ottona, or commanding officer. There is also in every street a place rail'd in, where they keep all the necessary instruments in case of fire. Not far from it is a cover'd well for the same purpose. The houses are, according to the standing laws and custom of the country, not above two stories high, each story of one fathom and a half, or two fathoms. They are built of wood, lime and clay. The front offers to the spectator's eye the door, and a shop where the merchants sell their goods, or else an open room, where handicrafts-men and artificers, openly and in every body's sight, exercise their trade and    [ 475]    manufactures. From the upper end of the shop, or room, hangs down a piece of black cloth, partly for ornament, partly to defend them, in some measure, from the wind and injuries of the weather. At the same place hang some fine patterns of what is sold in the shop. The roof is flat, and in good houses cover'd with black tiles laid in lime. The roofs of ordinary houses are cover'd only with shavings of wood. All the houses are kept within doors clean and neat to admiration, tho' they have no tables, stools, or any other such furniture, as our European rooms are furnish'd with. The stair-cases, rails, and all the wainscotting, is varnish'd. The floors are covered with neat mats and carpets. The rooms are separate from each other by skreens, upon removal of which several small rooms may be enlarg'd into one, or the contrary done if needful. The walls are hung with shining paper, curiously painted with gold and silver flowers. The upper part of the wall, for some inches down from the cieling, is commonly left empty, and only clay'd with an orange-colour'd clay, which is dug up about this city. and is, because of its beautiful colour, exported into several other remote provinces. The mats, doors and skreens) are all of the same size, to wit, one fathom long, and half a fathom broad. The houses themselves, and their several rooms, are built proportionably according to a certain number of mats, more, or less. There is commonly a curious garden behind the house, with an artificial hill, alld variety of flowers, such as I have describ'd elsewhere. behind the garden is the Bagnio, or Bathing-stove, and sometimes a vault, or rather a small room with strong walls of clay and lime, there to preserve, in case of fire, the richest houshold-goods and furniture.

Osacca is govern'd by Mayors, and the court of the Ottona's, headboroughs, or commanding officers of every c street. Both the Mayors and Ottona's stand under the superior authority of two Imperial Governors, who have also the command of the adjacent country, villages and hamlets. They reside at Osacca by turns every other sear, and when one iS upon his government, the other in the mean while stays with his family at Jedo, the capital of the Empire and residence of the Emperor. The government of the four other Imperial Cities, is put upon the same foot, with this difference only, that at Nagasaki there are three Governors, two whereof constantly reside upon the spot, commanding by turns, mean while the other stays at court for a year. The two Governors of Miaco must go to court only once in three years. The two Governors of Jedo constantly reside there, and command by turns each a year. I need not enlarge upon the policy, as it is observid at Osacca, and the regulation of the streets of this city, it being the same with that of Nagasaki, which I have fully describ'd in the 2d and 3d chapters of the 4th book, whereto I refer the reader. I took notice only of one particular relating to the nightwatch, and the way of making known, what hour of the night it is. For whereas at Nagasaki the same is done by the watchmen's beating two wooden cylinders against one another, they make use here    [ 476]    of a different musical instrument for every individual hour. Thus the first hour after sun-set, is made known by beating a drum, the second by beating a Gum Gum, (a brass instrumetlt in the form of a large flat bason, which being beaten makes a loud rushing noise,) the third, or midnight, by ringing, or rather beating a bell with a wooden sticle. The first hour after midnight they again beat the Drum, the second the Gumgum, the third the Bell. This third hour after midnight, or sixth hour of the night, is also the last, and ends with the rising-sun. It must be observ'd here, once for all, that both day and night are divided by the Japanese into six equal parts or hours, and this all the year round. Hence it is, that the hours of the day are longer, and those of the night shorter in summer, than they are in the winter, and to the contrary.

 Osacca is extreamly populous, and if we believe, what the boasting Japanese tell us, can raise an army of 80000 men, only from among its Inhabitants. It is the best trading town in Japan, being extraordinary well situated for carrying on a commerce both by land and water. This is the reason, why it is so well inhabited by rich merchants, artificers and manufacturers. Victuals are cheap at Osacca, notwithstanding the city is so well peopled. Even what tends to promote luxury, and to gratify all sensual pleasures, may be had at as easy a rate here as any where. For this reason the Japanese call Osacca the universal theatre of pleasures and diversions. Plays are to be seen daily both in publick and in private houses. Mountebanks, Juglers, who can show some artful tricks, and all raryshew people, who have either some uncommon, or monstrous animal to shew, or animals taught to play tricks, resort thither from all parts of the Empire, being sure to get a better penny here than any where else. Of this one instance will suffice. Some years ago, our East India company sent over from Batavia, a Casuar, (a large East India bird, who would swallow stones, and hot coals,) as a present to the Emperor. This bird having had the ill luck not to please our rigid censors, the Governors of Nagasaki, to whom it belongs to determine, what presents might be the most acceptable to the Emperor, and we having thereupon been order'd to send him back to Batavia, a rich Japanese and a great lover of these curiosis, assured us, that if he could have obtain'd leave to buy him, he would have willingly given a thousand Thails for him, as being sure within a years time, to get double that money only by shewing him at Osacca. Hence it is no wonder, that numbers of strangers and travellers daily resort thither, chiefly rich people, as to a place, where they can spend their time and money with much greater satisfaction) than perhaps any where else in the Empire. The Western Princes and Lords on this side Osacca have all their houses in this city, and their people to attend them in their passage through, and yet they are not permitted to stay longer than a night, besides that upon their departure they are oblig'd to follow    [ 477]    such a road, as is entirely out of sight of the castle. The water, which is drunk at Osacca, tastes a little brackish. But in lieu thereof they have the best Sacki in the Empire, which is brew'd in great quantities in the neighbouring village Tenusij, and from thence exported into most other Provinces, nay by the Dutch and Chinese out of the country.

 On the East-side of the city, or rather at its North East extremity lies the famous castle in a large plain. Going up to Miaco, we pass by it. It hath been built by the Emperor Taico. It is square, about an hour's walking in circumference, and strongly fortified with round bastions, according to the military architecture of the country. After the castle of Fingo, it hath not its superior in extent, magnificence, and strength throughout the whole Empire. On the North-side it is defended by the river Jodogawa, which washes its walls, after it hath receiv'd two other rivers. And tho' the united stream, was of it self of a very considerable breadth, yet for a still greater security they have thought it necessary to enlarge its bed still farther. On the East-side its walls are wash'd by the river Kasiiwarigawa, before it falls into the great arm of the river Jodogawa. Beyond the river Kasijwarigawa, opposite to the castle, lies the great garden belonging to the same. The South and West end border upon the extremities of the city. The moles, or butteresses, which support the outward wall, are of an uncommon bigness, and I believe at least seven fathoms thick. They are built to support a high strong brick wall, lin'd with free stone, which at its upper end is planted with a row of firs, or cedars. I took notice that there was a small narrow gate just in the middle of two sides, with a small bridge leading to them. This is all we could observe of the situation and present state of this renown'd castle. As to farther particulars, I had the following account given me by the natives. Coming in through the first wall, a second castle of the same architecture, but smaller, presents it self to your view, and having enter'd this second, you come to the third and middlemost, which according to the country fashion, is adorn'd in the corners with beautiful towers several stories high. In this third and uppermost castle there is another stately tower several stories high, whose innermost roof is cover'd and adorn'd with two monstrous large fish, which instead of scaleslare cover'd with golden Cubangs finely polish'd, which in a clear sun-shiny day reflect the rays so strongly, that they may be seen as far as Fiongo. This tower was burnt down about thirty years ago (to compute from 1691.) In the gate which leads to the second castle, there is a black polish'd stone, wall'd in among the rest, which for its uncommon bigness, weight, and for having been brought over to Osacca by water, is by the natives esteem'd a wonder, being five fathoms long, four fathoms broad, and much of the same thickness, and consequently almost of a cubical figure. 'Twas the    [ 478]    then Governor of Fiongo, who having been orderad by the Emperor Taiko, when he was about building this castle, to furnish him with large stones, caus'd six large barges to be join'd together, to transport this stone to Osacca, from an Island Initzma, situate five miles on this side Tomu, where it lay. The Emperor built this castle for the security of hiS own person; and to execute this design, he laid hold of that favourable opportunity, when having declar'd war aaainst the Coreans, he thereby found means to remove several of the most powerful of the princes and lords of the Empire, whom he was most apprehensive of, from his court and their dominions, by sending them over upon that expedition. A strong garrison is constantly kept in this castle, as well for the defence of the Imperial treasures, and the revenues of the Western provinces, which are hoarded up therein, as also to keep the said provinces in awe and submission, and to hinder the Western princes from attempting any thing against the security of the Emperor and Empire. The castle and garrison are commanded by two of the Emperor's chief favourites. They enjoy their command by turns, each for the term of three years. When one of the Governors returns from court to his government, his predecessor must quit the castle forthwith, and go up to court himself, in order to give an account of his behaviour. And what is very remarkable, he is not permitted to see or to speak to his successor, but must leave the necessary instructions for him in writing in his apartment in the castle. The Governors of the castle have nothing at all to do with the affairs relating to the city of Osacca, nor have they any business with the Governors thereof. However, they are superior to them sn rank, as may be concluded, from that the late chief justice of Miaco, who is one of the chief and most considerable officers of the crown, and in a manner the right arm of the Emperor, was raised to that eminent post from the government of this castle.

On Sunday, Feb. 25. We were admitted to an audience of the Governor of the city, whither we caused ourselves to be carried in Cango's, attended by our whole train of Interpreters and other officers. It is half an hours walking from our Inn to the Governor's palace, which lies at the end of the city, in a square, opposite to the castle. Just before the house we stept out of our Cango's, and put on each a silk cloak, which is reckon'd equal to the compliment gown, or garment of the ceremony, which the Japanese wear on these occasions. Through a passage thirty paces long we came into the hall, or guard-house, where we were receiv'd by two of the Governor's gentlemen, who very civilly desir'd us to sit down, till notice of our arrival could be given to their master. Four soldiers stood upon duty on our left, as we came in, and next to them we found eight other officers of the Governor's court, all sitting upon their knees and ancles, which way of sitting is reckon'd much more respectful, than the usual fashion of    [ 479]    sitting cross-leg'd. The wall on our right was hung with arms ranged in a proper order. There hung fifteen halberds, on one side, twenty lances in the middle, and nineteen pikes on the other, which latter were adorn'd at the upper end with fringes. From hence we were conducted by two of the Governor's secretaries, through four rooms, which however upon removing of the skreens might have been enlarg'd into one, into the hall of audience. I took notice, as we came by, that the walls were hung and adorn'd with bows about a fathom and a half long, with sabres and scimeters, (some of these and other arms, which are commonly to be seen in the palaces of great men, are represented in Figs. 113- 115) as also with some fire-arms, kept in rich black varnish'd cases. In the hall of audience, where there were seven of the Governor's gentlemen sitting, the two secretaries sat themselves down at three paces distance from us, and treated us with tea, meanwhile they carried on a very civil conversation with us, till soon after the Governor appear'd himself with two of his sons, one of seventeen, the other of eighteen years of age, and sat himself down at ten paces distance in another room, which was laid open towards the hall of audience, by removing three lattice windows, through which he spoke to us. He seem'd to be about forty years of age, middle siz'd, strong, active, of a manly countenance, and broad faced, very civil in his conversation, and speaking with a great deal of softness and modesty. He was but meanly clad in black, and wore a grey honour gown, or garment of ceremony, over his dress. He wore also but one ordinary scimiter. His conversation turn'd chiefly upon the following points: that the weather was laow very cold, that we had made a very great journey, that it was a singular favour to be admitted into the Emperors presence, that of all nations in the world only the Dutch were allow'd this honour. He then ask'd us, whether we were not extreamly delighted with the sight of their country, after the troubles of so long and fatiguing a voyage. Last of all he promis'd us, that since the chief justice of Miaco, whose business is it to give us the necessary passports for our journey to court, was not yet return'd from Jedo, he would give us his own passports for that purpose, which would be full as valid, and that we might send for them the next morning. He also assur'd us, that he was very willing to assist us with horses, and whatever else we might stand in need of for continuing our journey. On our sides we return'd him thanks for his kind offers, and desir'd, that he would be pleased to accept of a small present, consisting in some pieces of silk stuffs, as an acknowledgment of our gratitude. We also made some presents to the two secretaries, or stewards of his houshold, and having taken our leave, we were by them conducted back to the guard-house. Here we took our leave also of them, and return'd through the abovemention'd passage back to our Cango's. Our Interpreters permitted us to walk a little way, which    [ 480]    gave us an opportunity to view the outside of the above describ'd famous castle. We then enter'd our Cango's, and were carried back through another long street to our Inn. We had also brought along with us some presents for the second Governor, but he being at that time not at Osacca, we were necessitated to stay till our arrival at Jedo, there to consult with that of the Governors of Nagasaki, who was then in that capital, what was proper to be done with them. For we must behave ourselves in this country with the utmost circumspection, lest we should incur the displeasure of any of these great men.

On Monday Feb. 26. we staid at Osacca, according to custom, as we did also

On Tuesday Feb. 27th. all the preparations for our journey being not yet ready. We hir'd this day forty horses, and one and forty porters, after a hot dispute with our interpreters, who would have had more. And yet we might do our business with much less, were it not, that our thievish Interpreters carry a good quantity of their own goods under our name, and at our expence. In the afternoon we sent our old chief Interpreter to the Governor of the city, to take leave of him in our name, and to desire the Pasports he had promis'd us in our audience) which were forthwith granted, and the Interpreter commanded to wish us a good journey.

On Wednesday Feb. 28. We set out by break of day on our Journey to Miaco, because we intended to reach that place the same day, it being but thirteen Japanese miles, or a good day's journey distant from Osacca, to wit, three miles to Suda, two to Firacatta, three to Jodo, and five from thence thro' Fusimi to Miaco. (Concerning this journey) the Reader is desir'd to consult Fig. 117, being a Map of the road from Osacca to Fammamatz.) Coming out of Osacca we went over the Kiobas, as it is here call'd, or Bridge to Miaco, which is laid over the river, just below the castle. We then travell'd for about one mile thro' muddy rice-fields riding over a low damm, rais'd along the banks of the River Jodogawa, which we had on our left. We saw likewise on our left several houses, which lay dispers'd for about half a mile beyond Osacca, and belong to the suburbs of this city. We continued our journey along the banks of the river Jodogowa. Multitudes of Tsadanil Trees are planted along it. This tree grows as tall in this country, as oaks do with us. It hath a grey rugged bark: It had then no leaves, because of the winter-season, but its branches hung full of a yellow fruit, out of which the natives prepare an oil. The country hereabouts is extraordinary well inhabited, and the many villages along the road are so near one another, that there wants little towards making it one continued street from Osacca quite up to Miaco. The chief and largest villages, consisting of no less than 200 houses each, are Immitz, Morigutz, where they make the best Cinnamon, Sadda, Defudsj. Next follows Firakatta, consisting of near 500 houses, where we arriv'd at half an hour after nine in the morning, it being but

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five miles distant from Osacca. We staid here about half an hour at dinner. There are multitudes of Inns, Tea-booths, and Sacki-houses in this village, where one may also get at all times something warm to eat for a small matter. All these Inns, and Publick houses, are easily known by wenches, with their faces strongly painted, standing at the doors, and calling upon traveIlers to come in. From this place we took notice on our left, on the other side of the river, of a white castle, the residence of a Petty Prince, whose name is Facatzuki, which made a very good figure seen at a distance. After dinner we proceeded on our journey, and came thro' the villages Fatzuma of 200, and Fasimotto of 300 houses, to the small city of Jodo. Fasimotto is also remarkable for the multitude of Inns and Bawdy-houses. The small but famous city Jodo is entirely enclosed with water, and hath besides several Cannals cut thro' the town, all deriv'd from the arms of the river which encompass it. The suburbs consist of one long street, across which we rode to a stately woodenbridge, call'd Jodo Obas, which is 400 paces long, and supported by 40 arches, to which answer so many ballisters, adorn'd at the upper end with brass-buttons, the whole making an extraordinary good figure. At the end of this bridge is a sincle well-guarded gate, thro' which we enter'd the city. The city itself is very pleasant and agreeably situated, and hath very good houses, tho' but few streets, which cut each other at right angles running South, some East. Abundance of artificers and handicrafts-men live at Jodo. On the West-side of the city lies the Castle rais'd of brick in the middle of the river, with stately towers several stories high at each corner, and in the middle of its walls, which give a very stately and pleasing aspect to the whole building. The place before the castle is taken in with a strong brick-wall, which reaches far into the city. This castle is the residence of Prince Fondaisiono. Coming out of Jodo wee again pass'd over a bridge 200 paces long, supported by 20 arches, which brought us into another suburb, at the end whereof there was a strong guard-house. We left on our right, lying on the other side of the river tho' out of sight, the famous village or small open town Udsij known throughout Japan for its producing the very best sort of Tea, which for its uncommon goodness is cultivated and sent up to Jedo for the Emperor's own use. (See the History of the Tea in the Appendix.) After about two hours riding, we came at two in the afternoon to the town of Fusimi, or Fusijmi. This small open town, or rather village, consists of a few streets, some broader than long, some of a good length, some running up towards the neighbouring woody hills, which lay on our right, or to the East of the city. Some smaller arms of the abovemention'd river run thro' and by this city. The middle and chief street of Fusijmi reaches as far as Miaco, and is contiguous to the streets of that capital and residence of the Ecclesiastical Emperor of Japan, insomuch that Fsijmi might be caIl'd the suburbs of Miaco, the rather since this last city is not at all enclos'd with walls, but lies open towards the fields. It was to day Tsitats with the

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Japanese, being the first day of the month, which they keep as a Sunday, or Holiday, visiting the temples, walk into the fields, and following all manner of diversions. Accordingly we found this long street, along which we rode, for full four hours before we got to our Inn, crowded with multitudes of the inhabitants of Miaco, walking out of the city to take the air, and to visit the neighbouring

000000000000000000000000000000

482-86 missing

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whence they can have customers enough for such an immense quantity of goods. 'Tis true indeed, there is scarce any body passes through Miaco, but what buys something or other of the manufactures of this city, either for his own use, or for presents to be made to his friends and relations. The Lord chief Justice resides at Miaco, a man of great power and authority, as having the supreme command, under the Emperor, of all the Bugjo's, Governors, Stewards and other Officers, who are any ways concern'd in the government of the Imperial cities, crown lands and tenements, in all the Western Provinces of the Empire. Even the Western Princes themselves must in some measure depend of him, and have a great regard to his person, as a mediator and compounder of quarrels and difficulties, that may arise between them. No body is suffer'd to pass through Array, and Fakone, two of the most important passes, and in a manner the keys of the Imperial capital and court, without a passport sign'd by his own hand. The political government and regulation of the streets is the same at Miaco, as it is at Osacca and Nagasaki, of which above. The number of the Inhabiat tants of Miaco will appear by the following Aratame, wherein however are omitted all those persons, who live in the castle and at the Dairi's court. Those who live in so many monasteries and religious houses are computed by themselves. The Aratame is a sort of an inquisition into the life and family of every inhabitant, the number of his Children and domesticks, the sect which every one professes, or the temples to which they belong, which is made very punctually, once every year, by commissioners appointed for this purpose. In the last Aratame, which is hereby subjoin'd, the number of Inhabitants, as also of the temples, palaces, publick and private buildings, streets and bridges, stood thus.

    KIOOTO ARATAME.

Tira, that is, Temples of the Budsdo Religion, or foreign Pagan worship, great ar d small 3893 Mia Sintos Temples, or Temples of the Sintos Religion, as of old establish'd in the country 2127 Sokkokf Dai Mio Jassiki, that is, Palaces and houses of the princes and Lords of the Empire 137 Matz, or Streets 1858    [ 487]     

(1.) Ken, or houses, Siusanwan fassenku fiaku sijtzi siuku, as express'd in Japanese, that is 138979 Bridges 87

Negi, Secular Persons attending the Sintos Temples 9003

Jammabos or Mountain-Priests, which order hath been fully treated of in Lib. III. Ch. V. 6073

(2) Siukke, Ecclesiasticks of the Budsdo Religion 37093

As to the number of Secular Persons, who live at Miaco, it was found by this same Aratame, to stand as follows.

Siusi Oboj ji, or a List of all the sects and religions profess'd at Miaco, together with the number of Persons, who adhere to the same.

Ten Dai Siu 1009

Singon Sui 18095

Sen Siu 16058

Rissiu  9998

Fosso Siu 5513

Fokke Sui 97728

Sioo Dosui 159113

(3.) Dai Nembudsiu 289

(4.) Nis fonguan Si siu 54586

Fogas tonguan si siu 99016

(5.) Bukkwoo si siu 8576

Takkada siu    7576

Hence it appears, that when the last Aratame was taken at Miaco, there were then 52169 Ecclesiasticks, and 477557 Laymen in that Capital, besides numberless strangers, who resort daily to this place from all parts of the Empire, and the whole court of the Dairi, or Ecclesiastical Hereditary Emperor, no account of whom could be procured. The few following notes will serve to explain some of the most obscure words in the list above (as also in that which hath been inserted Vol. I. p. 331 of this History) of which little or no mention hath been hitherto made.

1. Ken, signifies properly a roof, but is taken in a wider sense for the house itself.

2. Siukke. All the Budsdo Priests are caIl'd Siukke, which word denotes Persons who retire from the world, and go to spend the remainder of their days in Convents and Monasteries, wholly applying themselves to studies and religious exercises, after the manner of the Roman Catholicks. These people, if they are sent from one Convent to another, or go a travelling upon any other account, a letter from their Osjo, or Father Prior of their Monastery, suffices to let them pass every where in the Empire, whereas other people must provide themselves with passports from the proper Magistrates.    [ 488]    3. Dai Nembudzsui, are persons, who devote themselves in a more particular manner to the worship of Amida. Otherwise they profess the Budsdo religion, and adhere particularly to the Siudosiu sect, whose temples they frequent. Nembutz, or Namanda, which words they often repeat in their prayers and ejaculations, is contracted from Namu Amida Budzu, Great God Amida help us. They are, in fact, a parcel of idle beggars, meeting together in the streets, on the roads, and in publick places, praying and singing Namanda, and beating of bells, for which their trouble they expect the charity of superstitious believers, for as much as they pretend, that their prayers and songs in honour of Amida contribute very much to the relief of their deceased parents and relations, if confined to a place of torment. Among themselves they assist one another to the utmost of their power and capacity, and have made the common interest of the fraternity one of their fundamental laws. If one dies, they bury him with their own hands, as many of them as can be summon'd together, and if he died poor and not able to bear the necessary expences of his funeral, they contribute among one another, and what money is wanting, they raise it by begging. If rich people are desirous to be admitted as members of this society, the first and chief question, they are ask'd, is, whether or no on occasion they will lend a helping hand to bury a dead brother? and if they answer in the negative, they stand for that very reason excluded. This custom is observ'd by them in all parts of the Empire.

4. Fonguansi sui, otherwise Ikosiu, which signifies the richest, is another particular sect of the Budsdoists, who make the temple Fonguansi, the place of their chief worship. They are divided into Nis Fonguan si siu, or the Western adherents of the Fonguan sect, and Figos Fonguan si siu, or the Eastern adherents of the same.

5. Bukkwoo si siu, are so call'd, likewise from a temple Bukkwo, where they worship preferably to others Otherwise they agree in most articles of their belief with the Montesiu sect.

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Chap. X. Our Journey from Miaco to Fammamatz, being half Way to Jedo.

We set out from Miaco in Cango's on Friday the second of March, and after an hour's travelling came to the end of a street in the suburbs, which is call'd Awattagus, where we went into an Inn, and were treated by our landlord of Miaco, with Sacki and Sockani (cold victuals). We staid there about an hour, and our landlord had in return for his civility a Cobang, his son half a Cobang, and the landlady an Itzebo. Thence passing thro' a narrow mountainous path, we came to the long villages Finoka, and Jakodsieja, which are a mile distant from Miaco. We drank here some Tea, our heads having been pretty much affected by the too large quantity of Sacki, we had been oblig'd to drink upon our departure from Miaco. This village reaches as far as the village Jabunosa, which is so call'd from the plenty of Bambous, which grow in the neighbourhood. It produces also the very best sort of Tobacco. We saw here on our left, some Pistol-shots from the road, a monastery call'd Muro Tai Dai Moosin, with a stately Tori, or Temple-gate, standing near the road, to shew the way to that convent. A little further is a Quanwon-Temple, with a large gilt Dsisoo, standing in a sex-angular building. A quarter of an hour further we came to Iwanotseja, a small hamlet, and soon after to the large village Ojiwaki, consisting of one long street of about four hundred houses, inhabited by lock-smiths, turners in wood and ivory, carvers, makers of assiz'd weights, wiredrawers, but particularly painters, and other persons who sell all sorts of Idols and Images. We saw here on our right, a high mountain as yet cover'd with snow, and call'd Ottowano Jamma. There is a footway goes from hence streight to Fusimi. Having travell'd about a quarter of an hour longer, we came an hour before sun-set to the City Oitz, where we intended to lie that night, having advanced to day not above three Japanese miles beyond Miaco. Ootz, or Oitz, is the first City in the Province Oomi coming up from Miaco. It consists of one long street, which runs thro' its middle in the form of an elbow, and hath some few smaller streets going from it. The number of houses may amount in all to a thousand. There are some very good Inns there, and those never without wenches, according to the custom of the country. It lies on a lake of fresh water, whicb hath no peculiar name, but is calltd the lake of Oitz from this place. It belongs to the Imperial Demesns, and is govern'd, along with the adjacent country, by a Steward sent thither by the Emperor. 'Tis recorded in Japanese Histories, that this lake arose in one night, the spot of ground,

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which it now fills, having been sunk by a violent earthquake and cover'd with water. 'Tis further mention'd) that the mountain Fusijamrna (of which more hereafter) became higher at the same time, than it had been before. The lake is pretty narrow, but extends forty or fifty Japanese miles North, as far as the Province Canga. All the commodities, which are sent from thence to Miaco, are brought by water as far as Oitz. There is plenty of fish in this lake, among the rest delicious Salmons, Carps, Baldheads, and a great many other sorts. Wild Ducks are seen at all times swimming in swarms like clouds. It discharges its superfluous waters by two rivers, one of which runs thro' Miaco, the other thro' Jodo and Osacca into the Sea. Not far from this lake, on the left going up to Jedo, lies the famous, high, but pleasant mountain Jesan, or Jiosan which is as much as to say Fairhill. It i hath numberless tall and beautiful trees growing up to its very top, and is said to have no less than 3000 temples in its compass, besides many villages, consequently a great number of monks and country-people. The situation, but much more the sanctity of this mountain, made it a sanctuary and place of refuge for the inhabitants of Miaco, in the intestine wars, which desolated that city. But Nobunanga, Secular Monarch of Japan, and Predecessor of the great Emperor Taico, out of a general hatred he l ore to all Priests and Monks, as well as to revenge some particular insults he receiv'd from those, who inhabited this famous mountain, invaded and conquer'd it at the head of a numerous army, consum'd and destroy'd all its temples and religious buildings, and cruelly butcher'd all that vermin of Priests, as he call'd them, with all the other Inhabitants Behind this mountain, at about two miles from the road, appear'd some others, call'd Firanotacki, which were then cover'd with snow, and extend to a considerable length along the lake of Oitz. Behind these mountains there are two very narrow and troublesome roads over other mountains, over which some of the Western Princes pass in their Journies to court. (Fig.117 is a particular Map of the road from Osacca to Miaco, and from thence thro' Oitz to Fammamatz.)

On Saturday March 3d. we set out before break of day, in order to reach to day the village Tsutsi Jamma, which is thirteen miles distant from Oitz. We were nqlr half an hour getting to the end of the long street of this city, where we took notice of a square paper-lanthorn, lighted and put up before some old houses, because just before us an Imperial Envoy had pass'd thro' the city in his way to court. The streets of the suburb reach'd as far as the pleasant town of Dsedsie, or Dsedsje Siesij, the Residence of Fondasijro Cami Prince of Facatta. On the sides of the Gates of this town were rais'd low but neat walls. The streets I found to be all regular, as far as I could see, running some South, some t:ast, and all the houses were white-wash'd. The castle lies at the Northend of the city, and is encompass'd partly by the lake of Oitz, partly by the town. It is a large but stately building, adorn'd according to the

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country fashion, with square towers several stories high, with a particular curious roof to each story. Not far from the castle is a large temple of the God Umano Gongin. We came soon after to another gate, where we found some of that Prince's soldiers upon duty, and took notice, that the black cloth, wherewith the guard roomwas hung,bore his coat of arms, being a character between two leaves standing upright. The roads begin here anew to be planted with firs on both sides, and continue so up to Jedo, unless some rocky mountains or barren sandy grounds prevented the planting thereof. The miles also are regularly measur'd, and at the end of each mile there is a round hill rais'd, with a ttee standing at the top, whereby travellers may accurately know the distance of places, and how many miles they advanc'd. Half a mile from Dsedsje we came to the village Tsetta, or Tsijtto; some pronounce it Sjetta, some Seta. The houses are built along the road on both sides. The river Jodogawa runs through it, coming out of the lake of Oitz, by the name of Jocattagawa. A double wooden bridge is laid over this river, just where it comes out of the lake, which is by much the largest I have seen in this country, and famous all over the Empire by the name of Tsettanofas, or the bridge of Tsetta, so call'd from the neighbourhood of this village. Both parts, or rather both bridges, meet each other upon a small Island, which lies in the river. The first is forty, the second three hundred paces long, both have ballisters, which are adornrd in the latter with brass balls at the top. I cannot forbear stopping a little at this famous bridge, in order to communicate to the Reader some odd, fabulous and ridiculous stories, which the Japanese firmly and religiously believe to have happen'd in the neighbourhood. A Dsia or Dragon, an animal in high esteem with most heathen nations of Asia, but particularly with the Chinese and Japanese, who represent it in their pictures as having hands, legs, and two horns, liv'd upon the shores of the lake of Oitz. There was at the same time a very large scolopendra or forty-leg, as long as two men, and proportionably big, liv'd upon a mountain, or rather round hill, situate on the road about two miles from the habitation of the Dragon, which from this monstrous animal is still call'd Mukaddo Jamma, or the forty-leg mountain This monstrous forty-leg very much infested the roads thereabouts, and in the night time came down from its mountainous seat to the habitation of the Dragon, where it destroy'd and eat up the eggs laid by him. Upon this a stout battle arose between the two animals, wherein the Dragon obtain'd a compleat victory, and kill'd his enemy. To perpetuate the memory of this action, a temple was erected in that part of the village, call'd Tawarrattadu, which temple still subsists, and was shewn us, as a convincinc proof of this event. But to proceed to another. The stone columns, which support the extremity of this famous bridge, are said to have been formerly    [ 492]    possess'd by an evil spirit, which very much molested travellers, as well as the inhabitants of the village. It happen'd one day that the famous Apostle of the Japanese Koosi, whose memory is still in great repute of sanctity, travelling that way, all the people of the neighbourhood earnestly entreated him by his miraculous power to deliver them from this insufferable evil, and to cast this devil out of the said columns, which in compliaAlce to their instant desire he did accordingly. The Japanese a people superstitious to excess, expected that he wou'd use a good many prayers and ceremonies, but found to their utmost surprize, that he only took of the dirty cloth, which he wore about his waste, and tied it about the column. Koosi perceiving how much they were amaz'd, address'd them in the following manner. Friends, said he, 'tis in vain you expect, that I should make use of many ceremonies. Ceremonies will never cast out devils, faith must do it, and it is only by faith, I perform miracles, and then continued his journey. A remarkable saying in the mouth of a heathen teacher! From thence passing through Kantangiwara, Sinde, Noodsi, or Nosij, and several other smaller villages, or rather long streets, as also over the river Okamigawa, which arises, a mile and a half from thence in the mountain Okami, we came after a mile and a half travelling to the city, or large village Kusatz. Coming along we took notice of six stone pillars, being the boundaries of the manors and villages, belonging to the Prince of Jodo, in the Province Oomi. Kusatz, or Kusatzi, reckons about five hundred houses, which are built for the best part on both sides of one long street. We staid here a little while to drink a dish of tea. We were full half an hour travelling from one end of this village to the other. In the neighbouring country grows that particular sort of reed, or Bambou, which is call'd Fatsiku, whose roots are made use of for walking canes, and imported into Europe by the name of Rottang. They are generally speaking cheap enough, at sometimes however they are sold very dear, when the lord of the Province forbids the (ligging of them for some years, which he is often necessitated to do, least too great a consumption should injure the growth of the plant, the roots lying very deep, and being not easily to be come at, unless the openings be considerably large. The Fatsiku reed is found also in other countries, but with short roots not fit tor use. There are only some particular people in this village, who make it their business to dig for these roots, and to trade with them, for which they have obtain'd a privilege from the lord of the Province. The whole art of preparing them, and making them fit for use, consists ill the following particulars. All the useless parts at the upper and lower end are cut off, with this necessary precaution however, that the remainder, which is sav'd, be not too short for use. This done, they cut of, also with a aood knife, particularly temper'd for this purpose, the young roots, and fibres, which surround the joints, and of rvhich there are allways some marks left, being    [ 493]    small circular holes round each joint; if they are grown crooked, they are streightned by the help of fire. Last of all, they must be weli wash'd and clean'd. A quarter of a mile farther we came to the village Mingawa, which hath its name from a river, which runs through it. This village consists of about four hundred houses, built along the road, and making one long street, which reaches as far as the village Tabara, or Tebuira, which hath about three hundred houses, and is contiguous in the very same manner to the village Minoki, and this again to some of the neighbouring, being like so many long streets, every one of which hath its particular name. Minoki is a village dispers'd on both sides of the road. It is famous for a medicine of great virtue, being a powder call'd Wadseran, which hath been first found out here, and is made no where else. It is given inwardly in all sorts of distempersu but particularly in that sort of cholick, which as peculiar and endemial to the natives of this country, and which I have given an account of in my Amoenitates Exoticae pag. 582 seq. (This account hath been inserted itl the Appendix of this History.) It is made of Putsju, a foreign bitter sort of Costus, and several other roots, and bitter plants, which grow wild in the neighbouring mountains. All the different ingredients, together with the Costus, having been first dried, and grosly cut, are carry'd to three neighbouring houses, built at some distance from each other, where they are ground to a powder, which is afterwards kept for use. The m! llstone, such as we saw it upon our return, is turned by four poeple, much after the same manner, as they do in our mills, when they grind mustardseed. The rest of the management is left to two women, who take care of the ground powder, carrying it back to the house, where they put it into square papers, four square fingers long and broad, whereupon is writ in red and black characters the name of the powder, together with its use and virtues. Every powder weighs somewhat more than two drams, and is given, according to the age and disposition of the patient, in one, two, or three doses, each to be taken in a dish of warm water. In the houses, where this powder is made, they sell it likewise ready prepar'd, and boil'd in warm water. A pious, but poor man, an inhabitant of the street, or village Tebara, is said to have been the first inventor of this medicine. He gave out, that the God Jakusi, who is the Apollo of the Japanese, and protector of physick and physicians, appear'd to him in the night in a dream, shew'd him all the ingredients of this medicine, growing upon the neighbouring mountains, and commanded him to make it up for the use and relief of his countrymen. This story brought his medicine into great credit, and it being sold in large quantities, the man soon grew rich, and became able to build a fine house for himself to live in, and opposite to his shop a chappel, or small temple, richly adorn'd in honour and gratitude to the God, who reveal'd this secret to him. In this temple he plac'd the Idol of Jakusi, standing upright on a gilt Tarate flower (the Nympha a palustris maxima,    [ 494]    or Faba Agyptiaca Prosp. Alpini) under one half of a large cockleshell extended over his head. The head was surrounded With a crown of rays, as a mark of his holiness: In his right hand he held something unknown, and in the left a scepter The whole Idol was strongly guilt. The Japanese, as they go by, seldom miss paying their duty and reverence to his golden Idol, some with a low bow, Others in an humble posture and bareheaded approaching the temple, where they ring, or rather beat a bell which is hung up before it, and then holding both their hands to their foreheads, make their prayers. Two relations of this man, living at Minoki, having obtainad a receipt of this powder, began the same trade, which soon enrich'd them also, and enabled them to build in like manner, each a chappel to Jakusi. Nay one of them went still farther, buildi ng besides a small house close to the chappel, wherein he maintains a priest, whose business it is to attend the chappel, to clean it, to light lamps before the Idol, and to do other services of this kind, in respect and honour of him. Having left Minoki, we soon lost sight of the lalee of Oitz, which till then we had seen on our left, at different but small distances, some hills and low mountains drawing near and covering the same, of the number whereof was the famous mountain Mikadde, or Mikame Jamma, of which above, being about half a mile distant from the road. The roads hereabouts had been Creatly damag'd and almost wash'd away by much rain, for which reason we follow'd the new road, which went round a mountain on our right, and after half a miles travelling brought us again into the old one. Soon after, about eleven in the forenoon, we came to Issibe, a large village of about four hundred houses, six miles distant from Oitz. We dined here in a large stately inn. Formerlv we us'd to dine at the small town of Minakutz, beyond Issibe, but our inn there having been burnt down, they now chose this village. After dinner we continued our journey as far as Dsutsi Jamma, a village of about three hundred houses, situate at the foot of a mountain of the same name, where we arriv'd at five in the afternon, having made to day in all twelve Japanese miles. We pass'd this afternoon through several great and small villages, almost contiguous to each other. About half way from Issibe to Dsutsi Jamma lies the small town of Minakudsi, which belongs to Catto Sadano Cami, one of the Emperor's counsellors of state of the second rank It consists of three long streets running very irregularly. At one end stands a low castle, or rather palace of the lord of the place, it having neither walls, nor ditches, though there were some soldiers stood upon duty at the gates. Some part of this town, which had been lately destroy'd by a fire, lay still in ashes. They make very fine hats here, and baskets of all sorts, of rushes and split reeds. We met here a great multitude of people, men and women, most on foot, some few on horseback, and sometimes two or three mounted on one beast. There were not a few beggars among them. They were all pilgrims,    [ 495]    some going to, some returning from Isje, a famous place situate at the South end of the Province of that name. They did not fail to importune us, as is usual with them, for our charity and assistance towards their pilgrimage. Many of them had the name of the place, to which they went, or from which they return'd pilgrims, as also their own name, and the name of the Province and place where they live, writ upon their hats, to know who they are, in case any accident should befal them on the road. Those who return from Isje, have their Ofarrai, or indulgence box tied under the brim of their hat before their forehead; to the opposite brim they tie a wisp of straw wrapt up in a piece of paper, only to balance the Of arrai.

On Sunday March 4th, we were carried in Cangos from our Inn over the mountain Dsutsika, as far as the village Sakanosta, which is two miles distant from Dsutsi Jamma. The road was all along very crooked and heavy. The mountain it self is very barren, the soil being either a drv sand, not fit for culture, or turff, and yet there are several small hamlets in its passage, whose Inhabitants get their livelihood chiefly by travellers. The descent of this mountain is not unlike that of a winding stair-case, some broad stone steps hewn out of the border of a deep precipice, leading down to another neighbouring mountain, is very remarkable for being a sort of a weather glass to the pilots of this country, who by its top being clear, or cover'd with clouds, and some other Signs, know how the weather Is likely to prove, and consequently whether or no it be safe for them to venture out to sea, on their voyages. Coming up the mountain, a temple presented it self to our view on the road. Not far from it, there was a small chappel, wherein was kept a gilt Idol, before whom two monks perform'd their prayers and devotions, thereby to excite good natur'd and religious passengers to give them their charity. We were full a quarter of an hour coming down the mountain. At the foot we took notice of another chappel, before which stood a gilt Lion. Some priests presented here to travellers a relick to kiss, and by way of reward took from them a farthing a piece. A quarter of an hour further stands another chappel hewn in the rock, call'd Jwei Jano Fano, but we saw no priests attending, or any body worshipping there. Sakanosta is a village of about an hundred houses, & the first in the Province Ise. It is a rich village with many Inns, and lies in a very pleasant country. We took notice here of a small open chappel, wherein was kept a bood provision of small thin boards, with some sacred and significant characters writ upon them, suppos'd to have the infallible virtue of keeping off all sorts of distempers and misfortunes. They were sold at some few farthings a-piece Having drank a dish of tea at Sakanosta, we again mounted on horseback, and after a quarter of an hour s riding came to the small village Futzkaki, or Kudsukaki, where they sold roasted chesnuts, and Kokoro roots boil'd, both    [ 496]    which grow in great plenty in this Province. Three quarters of an hour further, we came to Sekinosisi, a large village of about four hundred houses. Many of its Inhabitants get their livelihood, by making large quantities of matches out of scrap'd and split reeds, as also hats shoes and several other things, which the children crying ing about the street, and importuning people to buy them, prove very troublesome to travellers. we din'd here, having made only four miles this morning, bu, made great haste to set out again, in order to reach Jokaitz which is seven miles distant from Sekinosisi. Without this village there is a road going strait to Isje, a place in great repute of sanctity among the Japanese, which lies thirteen miles off, each mile being a full hour in this Province. Isje is reckon'd to be thirty miles distant from Miaco. After three quarters of an hour's riding, we came to the town of Kamme Jamma, which lies on a rising ground, or the flat top of an eminence. It is a prettv large town, taken in with a wall, as far as I could see, and likewise defended with strong gates and guards. On the South-side of the town stands the castle, tolerably well fortified with ditches, walls, and round bastions. We were riding near an hour before we got to the third guard and to the end of the suburbs, the streets running very irregularly, because of the unevenness of the ground, on which the town stands. A small mile further we came to Munitsaya, a small village, situate near the large village Tsjono, where we were overtaken by such a shower of rain, as forc'd us for a while to retire into the houses for shelter. From hence there is another road goes to Isie which is much frequented by the Inhabitants of the East and Northern Provinces. Travelling further we pass'd through several villages, the chief whereof were, Tsjono, Isijakus, Tsietsuki, Ojewata, and Finakawa, each of no less than two hundred houses. And the last, which is about half a mile distant from Jokaitz, is much larger since there belong to it near an hundred houses, built on the other side of the river, which hath given its name by this village. The country, we had this day travel through, was mostly barren and mountainous, with a few middling good spots of ground. For the last two miles from Tsitsuki to Jokaitz, it begun to be tolerably fruitful, flattish and low, and abounding chiefly in rice, not unlike the Province Fisen. Just before we came to our Inn, an Imperial Envoy, who had been sent to the Dairi, pass'd by us in great haste. He was upon his return from Miaco to Jedo, which journey he had orders to perform in eight days time. He was a person of a comely appearance. His train consisted in two Norimons, several pike-bearers, a saddle horse, which was led, seven servants on horseback, besides the footmen. Jokaitz, is a pretty large town of about a thousand houses: It hath several good Inns, where travellers are extraordinary well accommodated; for the Inhabitants must make a shift to get their livelihood partly by them, partly by what the neighbouring Sea, which    [ 497]    washes the Southern Coasts, on which the town stands, affords of fish, crabs, sub-marine plants, and the like. Among the pilgrims we met this day, there was a woman well dress'd in silk, and strongly painted, leading a blind olel man and begging before him, which we thought a very extraordinary sight. We also met several young Bickuni's, a sort of begging Nuns (of which I have already given some account in the 5th chapter of this book) who accost travellers for their charity, singing some songs to divert them, tho' upon a strange wild sort of a tune. They will stay with them for a small matter as long as they desire it. Most of them are daughters of the Jammabos, or Mountain-Priests, and consecrated as sisters of this holy begging order, by having their heads shav'd. They go neatly and well clad, wearing a black silk-hood upon their shav'd heads, and a light hat over it to defend thelr faces from the heat of the sun. Their behaviour is to all appearance modest and free, neither too bold and loose, nor too dejected and mean. As to their persons, they are as great beauties as one shall see in this country. In short the whole scene is more like a comedy, than the begging of indigent and poor people. 'Tis true indeed, their fathers could not send out, upon the begging-errand, persons more fit for it, since they know not only how to come at traveller's purses, but have charms and beauties tnouth to oblige them to farther good services. For distinction's sake, from other begging Nuns, they are call'd Komano Bikuni, because they go always two and two, and have their stations assign'd them only upon the road5 hereabouts. They are oblignd to bring so much a year, of what they get by begging, to the temple at Isje, by way of a tribute.

On Monday March 5, We set out from Jokaitz by sun rise. The Imperial Envoy above-mention'd had left this place at midnight. At eleven in the forenoon we came to Quano, having made three miles, travelling thro' a flat fruitful country. We went thro' ten villages, and cross'd several rivers, two whereof had bridges laid over them, one of 150 paces in length, the others we were necessitated to ford. I have set down the several villages in the Map of E our journey, and therefore forbear mentioning their names in this place, the rather, since passing thro' nothing occur'd to me remarkable, which I had not observ'd elsewhere. I took notice only, that at the village Navi they roasted the Jamaguri Oysters with a fire made of Pinenuts, and offer'd them to foot-travellers to sale. Kuwana Kfana, or Quano, is a very large city and the first in the Province Owari. It lies on a large and spacious harbour, or rather Gulf of the Southern Sea, which runs a good way up into the country. It consists of three different parts, as so many different towns. We were full three quarters of an hour before we came to our Inn, which was at the extremity of the third. The first part of the city is taken in with a high wall and ditches, as is also the third. The gates are strong and well guarded. The second, or middle part, hath no walls,

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but is entirely surrounded with water, the country being flat and full of rivers. On the South-side of the third part stands the castle, and residence of Matzindairo Jetsu Cami, built in the water. (Fig. 118.) Its walls are very high, with loopholes broke thro' and neatly cover'd with a roof. Blockhouses are built on them, at small distances. This castle takes in a large square spot of ground. The Eastside only is a little roundish. A deep and large ditch divides it from the city, over which, for communication's sake are laid two bridges. Three sides of it are wash'd by the sea. In the middle of the castle there is a square white tower rises aloft several stories high, with several roofs according to the country fashion, which adds very much to the beauty of the place. This castle was built by the Emperor Gengoin, uncle of the now reigning Monarch, who having a natural aversion to the female sex, but more particularly to the Empress his spouse, order'd, that she, together with the ladies of her court, and his the Emperor's own nurse, should spend therein the remainder of their lives.

Having din'd at Quano, and the weather proving fair after a good shower of rain we left this place about noon, and went with our horses and baggage on board four ships, which were to bring us over to Mia, which is several miles and a half distant from Quano. The great river Sajjah loses itself into the sea near a village of that name about three miles from Quano. Vast quantities of wood are floated down this river, out of the Province Owari, and several other places. The harbour is very shallow, and full of muddy banks, which stand up in low water four or six foot. This shallowness oblig'd us to leave the four large boats we had hir'd for our passage, about an hour before we came to Mijah, and to make use of smaller ones, tor us and our baggage, as far as that city. These small boats were drawn, or rather pull'd, over the muddy banks by the help of poles of Bambous, two men beirlg appointed for each boat, one before, and another behind This singular kind of navigation, tho' it seem'd to us strangers, that were not us'd to it, very ridiculous and odd, yet it went on very well, the upper surface of the mud being very soft and smooth, the ground hard and the boats small, containing not above seven or eight persons, and still less, if laden with other goods. Accordingly we came to Mia betimes, about two hours before sunset. We found upwards of fifty passage-boats riding at anchor near this city, tho' at about half a mile's distance, because of the shallowness of the harbour. The way by land from Kwano to Mia, is much better, but longer, it being ten miles only from the village Sajah to Mijah. Considering this, we need not wonder at Ulysses and his Argonauts, if sometimes, as occasion requir'd, thev r pursued their navigation by land, as Rudbeck takes notice by in his Atlantica. To this day the same is observ'd by the Cossacks, who draw their boats from the river Tanau over to the river Wolga near the city Zarich. In my travels thro' Muscovy into Persia it happen'd, that just the day before our arrival at Zarich 800 Cossacks, had brought over their boats after this manner from    [ 499]    the Tanau to the Wolga, with an intent to fall down that river, in order to pursue their Enemies the Calmuckian Tartars, and to recover the booty which they had taken from them. But i'd. to return to our own subject. Mia hath no was. There is only a sorry ditch both going in coming out of the town. It is very populous and large, tho' not quite so large as Quano, consisting only of about two thousand houses. On the right is a square palace built in form of a castle, where the Emperor lodges in his journey to Miaco, as do also some of the greatest Princes of the Empire in their journies to and from court. The streets run across each other, with as much regularity as the disposition of the ground would admit of. A long street, or row of houses, runs for near two miles from Mijah, and terminates at Nagaija, the residence of the Lord of this province, who is a Prince of the Imperial Blood. The castle, wherein he resides, is reckon'd the third in the Empire for strength and extent. 'Tis with the utmost magnificence this Prince makes his journey to Court. Only his van-guards consists of upwards of 2000 men, with ledhorses, halberds, pikes, bows, arrows and other arms, baskets, trunks, and numberless other things, some for use, some for state, all with his coat of arms upon them. When the Dutch meet him upon the road, the whole retinue must alight from their horses, our resident come out of his Norimon, and all in silent humble posture, out of respect for the Imperial Blood, stay till he hath been carried by. The country hereabouts is flat, fruitful, and well inhabited. Going thro' Mijah we pass'd by a small Sintos Temple, which had been built four years ago, and is call'd Azta, or the Temple of the three Scimiters. Two red gates, such as are usually to be seen before temples, stand at the entry of this. Three miraculous Scimiters, which had been used in the ancient times of that race of Demi-gods, who inhabited this country, and carried on cruel xvars against each other, are preserv'd in this temple as sacred relicks. They were kept formerly in the temple at Isje, from whence about the time, above-mention'd, they were remov'd hither. Five Sintos Priests attended at this temple, clad in white Ecclesiastical Gowns, with black lacker'd caps, such as are wore at the court of the Dairi, or Ecclesiastical Hereditary Emperor. Two of the lowest rank stood on the floor of the temple, two others of a higher rank sate behind them somewhat rais'd, and the fifth sate about the middle of the temple, placed higher than all the rest. There is likewise another temple of this kind to be seen in this town, call'd Fakin, or the Temple of 8 Scimiters, wherein are preserved, with great care and veneration, eight swords used by the Half-divine Heroes of those ancient times. Priests clad, as abovesaid, attended also this temple.

On Thursday March 6, we set out by land from Mijah by break of day, and pass'd thro' several villages and hamlets, the chief whereof were Kassadira, a village of about an hundred houses, so call'd from a temple of this name, built in honour of an eminent Idol. The Japanese, as they went by, rung a bell hung up before this temple, making a low bow, some say-    [ 500]    ing a short prayer. Narimni, or Narumi, is another village of about 400 houses, and cottages. Arimatsi hath not above an hundred houses. They make and sell here good suits of cloaths made of Cotton. Imokawa, is a village of about 200 houses. Tsiwa, or Tsiriu, is a small town, the first in the Province Mikawa. Okasacki is a very large town, and the residence of the Lord of this Province. We din'd here, having travell'd this morning seven miles. Okasacki reckons about 1500 houses, most of which are well built. It is enclos'd with a neat hedge, or palisado's of Bambous, and in some places with a wall. The castle lies on the South-end of the town on a hill, and is enclos'd with ditches, and a white wall rais'd on a low rampart. The wall is defended with strong Guard-houses built of stone at different distances. Towards the hill, where it is most liable to an attack, it is defended with a triple strong wall. The high tower in the middle of the castle, the usual mark of Princely Residences, shews itself on the South-westside to admiration. The suburbs I found to consist of about 200 houses. A large river, which hath its name from the city, runs across it. This river, tho' pretty broad and not wanting water, is yet not navigable, being very shallow. It arises in the neighbouring mountains to the North-west, from whence it continues its course with great rapidity, till it loses itself into the Sea. A strong and magnificent wooden-bridge is laid over it, which the Japanese say is 158 Ikins, or fathoms long, but my servant measuring it, found it to be of 350 paces in length. From our entring the suburbs, we were half a mile going to our Inn, which was a very magnificent one. After dinner we set out again, and travell'd five miles farther, as far as the town of Akasaka. We pass'd thro' several small villages, and hamlets, and thro' one small town, or rather borough, call'd Fusikawa, which is a mile and a half distant from Okasaki. There is a large river betweell these two places, over which is laid a bridge of 130 paces in length. About half an hour's riding beeond Fusikawa, near the village Osijra, we were met by three couple of Bikunis, or begging Nuns, and as many young Jammabos, or Mountain-Priests, who came in company out of a neighbouring wood, and did their best with singing, praying and preaching to get our charity. We prov'd kinder to the Nuns, than to the Priests, because they kept us company a good while to divert us with tneir vocal musick. The best part of Akasaka is one long well built street, with good houses, and many stately inns. Every Inn hath a competent number of wenches, strongly painted, to wait upon the guests, from whence this town obtain'd the name of the Magazine of Publick Stews. The country we had this day travell'd thro', was flat in the forenoon, with woods and undergrowth in some places, and cultivated fields in others, the whole being a plain, which from Tsirijn seem'd to extend five miles up towards the next hills. In the afternoon it became mountainous for about two miles and a half from Okasaka, the rest was flat, fruitful and well cultivated land.

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Some rheumatick pains, of which our old chief Interpreter was taken ill in the night, retarded our setting out on Wednesday March 7, in the morning at the usual early hours. We left Akasaka about nine, and travell'd seven miles to Array, where we din'd. After dinner we had but three miles and a half left to go to Fammamatz, where we intended to lie that night, it being half way up to Jedo. The chief places we pass'd thro' before dinner, were Goju a village of very near 300 houses, Khomra another of 15o, Simosij of 100. Here we pass'd over a bridge 350 paces long into the suburbs of Josijda, or Jostsljda, which is three miles distant from Akasaka. The town of Josijda is built on a rising ground. It hath gates and guard-houses, with a small garrison, more for state, or Ornament, than for defence. It consists of about a thousand houses, or rather cottages, inhabited by indigent people, and built on both sides of one long street, which runs across the town, and some few side-streets turning off from the great one. It hath two suburbs, one going in, the other coming out of the town. The first reckons about 100, the other 250 houses, built on both sides of the road, which makes it full an hours riding to get from the entry of the first suburbs, through the town, to the extremity of the other. The castle stands on the North East side of the town, and is a square building, as usual. Three sides of it are enclos'd with walls and ditches, on the fourth it is defended by a river, which runs by it. The walls are high, white and neat, otherwise without guardhouses, or any other defence, the castle having been built only to receive and lodge the princes of the Empire in their journies to and from court. The Governor of this castle had order'd a file of twenty Bugjos, or soldiers of the first rank, to receive us under arms, in order to honour our passage. There is a great deal of smithis work made and sold here. I took notice that the country people had brought great quantities of wood, leaves, hay, pease, and other produce of the country to market, perhaps because it was a market day at the place. From thence to Array, which is very near five miles distant, we pass'd through no considerable villages, excepting only Sijrosaka, which consists of about two hundred houses built along the seashore. Here we first discover'd the top of the high mountain Fusi, or Fusino Jama, which in beauty, perlhaps, hath not its equal. About half a mile further we reach'd Array, a small town of about four hundred houses situate not far from the sea, at the narrow extremity of a small harbour. We din'd here. The town is open without either walls or ditches. The goods and baggage of all travellers, but particularly of the princes of the Empire, must be visited in this town by Imperial commissioners appointed for this purpose, who are to take care, that no women nor any arms pass further. This is one of the political maxims which the new reigning Emperors have round necessary to practise, in order to secure to themselves the peaceable possession of the throne, for the vives and female children of all the princes of the Empire are

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kept at Jedo, the Imperial Capital, as hostages of the fidelity of their husbands and parents. And as to the exportation of arms, a filll and effectual stop hath been pu, to that, lest, if exported in any considerable quantity, Some of these princes might take it into their heads to raise rebellions against the Government, as it is now

establish'd. As to our goods and baggage they were not open'd, but only look'd over: Only my Adofski, or trunk, which was tied behind the saddle of my horse, met with some difficulty, because of its weight, which made them suspect, that there was something extraordinary, and for ought thev knew, arms hid in it; but however, upon some reasons offer'd them, it escap'd being untied and open'd. Having been thus search'd, we appear'd before the Imperial commissioners, who receiv'd us with a great deal of civility, and without any difficulty gave us leave to depart when we would. Accordingly we forthwith went on board an Imperial pleasureboat, which was to carry us over this harbour, to the village Mijasacka, which is but half a mile distant from Array. This harbour, which is call'd Sawo, hath seven miles and a half in circumference. From a small entry it soon gro vs broader, towards the mountainous coasts to the North-West it is very near round, but towards the East it sends an arm a cross into the country, which ends in a narrow point, where there is another Imperial guard kept, to prevent any bodys attempting to cross over the harbour on that side, and so to escape heing search'd at Array. At Mijasacka we took fresh horses, and travell'd three miles further, through some feas villages, as far as Fammamatz, where we arriv'd at five in the evening, and staid that night. Fammamatz is a small town of some hundred houses, or rather cottages, built along some few but regular streets. It is a goosl deal longer, than broad, being three quarters of an hour walking from one end to the other. It lies on a plain, which on the right extends for one mile towards the coasts, and on the left runs up for about four miles to the foot of the neighbouring hills. The streets make a very good appearance in the day time, because of the great number of open shops. On the North-side, about the middle of the town stands a large castle, though without any defence, being enclos'd only with a thin wall. It being either the yearby fair of the place, or some other holiday, the boys diverted themselves walking in procession through the streets of the town, with drums and other musical instruments, and lighted Candles, which they carried upon Bambous. The country, which we travell'd through this forenoon was but thinly inhabited for about three miles, though plain, and well cultivated, particularly about Josijda, and for about two miles further we pass'd through very fruitful corn and ricefields. Next follow'd another agreeable plain with some bushes and woods, which run up as far as Array. The afternoons journey was likewise through a flat pleasant country, not unlike that we pass'd through in the morning, otherwise but thinly inhabited.   [ 503]

 

Chap. XI. Our Journey from Fammamatz to Jedo, the Place of the Emperor's Residence.

We set out from Fammamatz later than usual, by reason of the indisposition of our old chief Interpreter. Having rode near two miles we came to the rapid river Ten Rijn, which then fell down towards the sea in two distinct arms. This river is very broad, the banks being a quarter ulstant from each other. Its rapidity is so great, that it will bear no Bridges. We forded through the first arm on horseback, and were ferried over the second in flat prows. We then mounted our horses again, and pass'd through several villages, which it is needless here to mention, because I have set them down in the map of our journey from Fammamatz to Jedo. (Fig. 119.) Among other places we pass'd through the town of Mitzedai, consisting of two hundred and fifty houses, where we took notice of a particular stately Tori, or gate leading to a temple. Mitzka is another town of about five hundred houses. From thence passing over a bridgre five hundred paces long, we came to Fukuroy, a large village of about four hundred houses, where we din'd. After dinner we came to the town of Kakinga, or Kakegawa) two miles from Fukuroy. This town hath its cates and guards, and a suburb at each end. The castle lieth on the North side. It is a large square building, but enclos'd only with one plain wall, without any guard hoof the town was saved, although there were no less than two hundred houses, chiefly along the middle and great street, lay in ashes. Two miles further we came to Nisij sacca, a village of about two hundred houses, where we exchanged our horses for Cangos, in order to be carried over a mountain to the village Canaja, where we again took fresh horses. A quarter of a mile further we came to the large and famous river Ojingawa, which comes down from the neighbouring mountains with uncommon force and rapidity, and falls into the sea about half a mile below this place. It having been fair weather for some time, the bed of this river, which is full a quarter of a mile broad, was in a great measure emptied, and the water run down in separate streams. It is impossible to ford through this river after great rains, when the water is high, and even in low water the passage is attended with no small difficulty and danger, because of the force and rapidity of the torrent, and the great large stones which it frequently brings down from the neighbouring mountains, where it arises. For this reason particular persons, who are well acquainted with the bed of the river, are appointed to ford men and horses through at determin'd rates, and lest they should not have a due regard to the lives of their passengers, it hath been order'd by the laws of the country, that if any should be lost or drown'd. all those that had the care of him should be put to death. They are paid in proportion to the depth of the river, or the height of the water, which is measur'd by a post put up on the shore. When we were forded through. althou h the water was then very low, and scarce knee deep, yet five men were appointed to each horse, two on each side to hold him under the belly, and a fifth to take him by the bridle. When the water is higher, there mUst be six persons on each side of the horse, two to hold him under the belly, and four to hold these and to support one another, meanwhile a thirteenth takes him by the bridle . Japanese writers, particularly poets, frequently allude to this River, because of its singularities. Having passed over this river, which took up half an hour, we soon came to the village, or small town of Simada, being s but a quarter of a mile long. We staid there that night, having made five miles before, and six miles after dinner. the country we had this day travell'd through, was a fruitful plain as far as Farangawa, but from thence to iimada, where we lay, it became mountainous, and in a great measure barren. Not far from Mitzka, where we had the mountains on our left about half a mile off, and where we could plainly discover the sea to our right, we pas ,'d through woods and bushes, and fruitful fields, boarderld with tea, though only for about half a mile. Among the several singular sorts of beggars, we met this day, there was a boy of thirteen years of age, such as I have already given some account of in the fifth Chapter of this Book. He had a wooden machine pendent from his neck, and a rope about it by way of a necklace with eight strings, from the extremities whereof hung so many bells: with this singular collar, he turn'd himself round without stirring from the place he stood at, and this he did with so surprizing a swiftness, that the whole machine seem'd to turn with him horizontally, meanwhile with tlvo hammers, which he held in his hands, he beat the bells, making a strange odd sort of a musick.

On Friday March 9. We set out at seven in the morning, and having pass'd through several villages, we came to a large river, which from the town of Fusij Jedo, lying on the opposite side, is call'd Fusij Jedogawa. It is broad, rapid, and not easily to be forded through, without beint assisted and supported by skilful persons well acquainted with its bed. When we pass'd it, the water was very low, and far from reaching the banks. There were two garded gates leading in and out of the town, the streets we found irregular, and the houses poor, more cottages. We were full half an hour getting to the end of the suburbs. The castle and residence of the error was on our left. Not far from Fusij Jedo, we were shew'd a famous castle call'd Fanunkasijo, situate on uses or other defence. A stately white tower several stories high, adorn'd, as usual, the middle of the residence. Upon our arrival at this place the following accident happen'd. A poor man, an inhabitant of the town, sitting with his domesticks under the door of his house, a large kettle, wherein they were boiling oyl out of some fruits, accidentally took fire, which in an instant set the house all in a blaze, and the wind blowing hard, the flame was instantly communicated to the neighbouring houses. We did not take notice of any fire behind us, but perceiving only a thick smoak coming upon us, which quickly cover'd the sky, we begun to be apprehensive of a sudden storm and to look for our cloaks. But the wind blowing upon our back, soon involv'd us into such a cloud of smoke and heat, that to escape being suffocated we were forc'd to ride on a full gallop, and to get as fast as we could out of the was. Being got some hundred paces from the town on a little eminence, we looked back, and saw the whole town all cover'd with smoak and flames, that we could perceive nothingg but the upper part of the castle tower arising, as it were, out of a thick cloud. However upon our return

[504]

from Jedo, passing again through this place, we found the misfortune less than we apprehended, for the castle had receiv'd no damage, and more than one half

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our right about half a mile off. A mile further we pass'd over a bridge fifty paces long, at the end whereof was a small hamlet call'd Okabe. A quarter of a mile further lies a village of that name, which we reach'd riding between mountains. From hence for two miles we had a very bad way over some rocks and hills, where the abovemention'd river arises, till we got into the plain again, and soon after came to Muriko, a small town of about three hundred houses. We din'd at Muriko, and set out atain in the afternoon, some in Norimons, and Cangos others on horseback. After half an hours riding we came to Abikava, a double village, being situate on both sides of a large river, which divides it in two, and not far from thence discharges its waters into the sea, by three separate mouths. A quarter of a mile from this river we came to the capital of the province Suruga, or Sijringa, which is by some call'd Sumpu, by others Futsju from its castle, but commonly Suruga from the name of the Province. It is an open town, having neither gates nor walls. The streets are regular and broad crossing each other at right angles. The houses are low, but the whole town is full of well furnish'd shops. They make and sell here at an easy rate, paper stuffs curiously flower'd and of various colours for habits, hats, baskets, boxes, and other things ingeniously twisted of split reeds, as also all sorts of lacker'd ware. There is likewise a mint here, as well as at Jedo and Miaco, where they coin Cobangs, being flat oval pieces of gold, worth about five ducats each, and Itzebos oblong square pieces of gold of two ducats and a half each. The castle lies on the North East side of the town. It is a square building, well defended with ditches and high walls of free stone. A

[506]

few years ago its stately tower was consumed by a fire, which thev say was occasion'd by some pidgeon's dung, which had been gather'd in the uppermost story of the tower for several years together, and at last, through the heat of the pidgeons hatchino their young, took fire and burnt this noble building down to the ground. They say the like accident happen'd very frequently in this country, for which reason they now shut the garrets of their houses and uppermost stories of their towers, to prevent pidgeons getting in to build there. The Emperoras elder brother Tejitonani having conspir'd against him, was confined to this castle, where after a long imprisonment he made away with himself, ripping up his belly. He was a natural son of the Emperor Gonju, who resided at Suruga, and made him lord of that Province. The youth at this place seem'd to be well bred, and to have better manners than elsewhere) since passing through we had no Toosin baibai cried after us. It is an hours riding from one end of the town to the other. Three miles Som Suruga we came to a small village call'd Jesira or Jeseri, which had nothing to recommend itself but the beauty of its situation, being not far from the gulf Totomina. It may not be improper to observe in this place, that most of the gulfs of this country have their particular names. The village Jesira consists of one irregular street, along which are built some hundred poor cottages. A deep river runs through it. A larte quantity of a particular sort of wood, as hard as iron, which from this village is call'd Jeseriwood, is floated dowll this river to the sea, and from thence exported all over Japan. Not far from this place is a harbour, where are kept some of the Emperor's men of war, if otherwise they deserve to be so call'd, being nothing but barges of the first rate, built for the defence of the gulf of Totomina, in case of need. Opposite to it, a little farther, on a high mountain, lies the famous fortress Kuno, or Kono, which is by the Japanese esteem'd invincible, and hath been built in ancient times to secure the Imperial Treasures. But this custom hath been left off of late, the now reigning Emperors chusing rather to keep their treasures in their own capital and residence at Jedo, where they can look after them themselves, and have them at command when wanted. There are also some gold and silver mines in that mountain, but they are at present not work'd. We travelled this day through a flat well

 

2 SEITEN FEHLEN

 

at Jumatz, and having rode an hour and a half, we came to the large village or town of Cambara. Here we left the coasts of this Gulf for some time, tho' they run up some miles farther towards the East, and having for two days before travell'd North-East, we now turn'd North, towards the great river Fudsikava. After an hour's riding and a half, we came to the great village Iwabutz, the only place where this dangerous and rapid river is passable. It arises on the high mountain Fudsi, or :Fusi, which is filll seven Japanese miles distant from thence to the North East, and having took up by the way several smaller brooks and rivulets, arising on the neighbouring lower mountains and hills, it falls down with great force and rapidity, and loses itself into the Gulf of Totomina. It is very broad, but not equally deep. It runs down in two separate streams, a large piece of ground standing out about the middle, like an Island, on which they have built some shops. The first stream we could ford thro', but the second is not passable otherwise than in a particular sort of boats, which they call Prowes, and even in these the passage is very dangerous and difficult. They have flat broad bottoms made of thin planks, or boards, which, if in the passage the boat runs on a stone or shallow, will yield, and let it slip over. Such an invention was absolutely requisite for the passage of these rivers, not only because of the rapidity of the torrent, but by reason chiefly of their unequal shallowness, and the huge large stones they roll down from the mountains, where they arise. As to what reg!ards our own passage, the boats, which were to ferry us over the second stream, were first hawl'd on shore, to take us and our baggage up, then turn'd off, when the force of the river on one side drivine them down, and the watermen on the other rowing With all their might, brought us obliquely to the opposite shore Having pass'd this river we took fresh horses, and after an hour's and a half travelling thro' several villages, or rather long streets, almost contiguous to each other, vve came about one in the afternoon to the town or large village of Jostjiwara, and dined there. This village is the nearest to the mountain Fudsi, or Fusij Jamma, of any we vere to pass thro' in our journey to court. Taking the direction with my compass, I observ'd it to bear five Degrees from North to East. It is suppos'd to be six Japanese miles from Jostijwara to this mountain in a streight line. But because of the unevenness of the road it is reckon'd seven miles travelling to a field, which lies at its foot, from thence six other miles thro) the snow up to    [ 509]    the top. It is incredibly high, and not unlike the pike of Teneriff) the adjoining mountains appearing like so many low hills. We were directed by it in our journey, it being seen a great distance, and for my own particular, it help'd me not a little in drawing and correcting the map, I propos'd to make of the road. It is of a conical figure, tapering from a large basis, and to all appearance even, that it may deservedly be esteem'd one of the finest mountains, tho' otherwise it be quite barren, no grass, nor plants, growing upon it, and the best part of the year cover'd with snow, which in the summer-season indeed, thro' the heat of the sun, diminishes considerably, but is seldom entirely melted, so as to lay its top bare. According to the account of persons that went up, there is a large deep hole, or opening near the top, which in former times belch'd out fire and smoke, till at Last the uppermost hill arose, but now it is fill'd with water. Its top being almost perpetually cover'd with snow, and there being constantly some flocks of it blown off on all sides, it looks in high winds, as if it were cover'd with a hat of clouds and smoke. For it must be observ'd, that it is seldom calm at the top, for which reason people ascend it for religious purposes, there to worship their Aeolus, or God of the Winds. They are three days going up, but say, that they can come down again, if they please, in three hour's time, by the help of sledges of reed, or straw, which they tie fast about their waste, and so glide down over the snow in winter and over the sand in summer, it being, as hath been observ'd, surprizingly smooth and even. The Jammabos, or Mountain-Priests, are of this order of Aeolus, and their watch-word is Fusij Jamma, which they frequently repeat in discoursing and begging. Poets cannot find words, nor Painters skill and colours, sufficient to represent this mountain, as they think it deserves. After dinner we set out again, and after half a milezs riding we came to Mottosjojro, a miserable village of about three hundred cottages, dispers'd along the road in a sandy ground, extending near half a mile. The poor children of this village came in flocks to our horses and Cangos, and applied for our charity in a very comical manner, tumbling in the sand, twenty or thirty paces before us. Numbers of farthings were thrown among them, and it was diverting to see, at what rate they push'd and pull'd one another, who should have the money. Travellers know before hand that they are to expect this diversion, and for this purpose they take care to provide themselves at Josijwara with a string of Casses, these poor children keeping them company sometimes for half a mile out of the village, or as long as they see they have money to throw out. Cas is a flat piece of brass about the bigness of a shilling, and the value of a farthing. They have a hole in the middle, for the conveniency of being ty'd to a string, which is hung at the horse's side. From thence we pass'd through several inhabited places, the chief of which were Farra, a village of about two hundred and fifty houses, and Numatsju, a town of near two thousand houses. This    [ 510]    town hath no walls and is more like a great village. The chief and middie street runS lengthways for about half a mile. Our servants went here to see a temple, call'd Kamanomia, and by some Sannomia where iS kept, as a great piece of curiosity, a large kettles which belong'd to Joritomo, (some say to his elder brother Fostsine) Commander in chief of the Imperial troops, and first Secular monarch of Japan. It is said to have the breadth of two mats in diameter, and to have serv'd to boil the wild boars, kill'd in hunting about the mountaill Fusino Jamma. At NumatsJu the night broke in upon us so that we were necessitated to travel an hour and a half in the dark to Misijma, where we intended to lie.

We pass'd through several small hamlets, almost contiguous to each other, as also over a bridge forty five Kin, or fathom long. The river, over which this bridge is laid, arises in the mountains of Artaga, and Fakone, from whence having wash'd several hills, it runs amidst an almost continu'd row of cultivated fields towards the Sea. It is commonly call'd Ksingava, or Sisingava, and by some Kamagafuti. This latter name owes its origin to the following fabulous story. They say that at the above-mention'd Sanno temple, there was kept an extraordinary large Kama, or hunting Instrument, formerly made use of in the Fusinomakagiri, as they call them, or the old great chases about the mountain Fusino Jamma. One night some thieves broke into the temple, and robb'd the Kama, but as they were carrying it away, it grew so heavy upon them, that they were forc'd to let it drop and fall down in the river. The fall of an instrument so monstrously big and heavy, made a great Futz, or hole in the bed of the river, which is from thence call'd Kamagafutz. The Kama itself became a Soul, which now hath the direction and government of the river. Misijma is a small town, wherein I told about 650 houses, as we pass'd through, buiit chiefly along the middle street, which is at least a quarter of a mile long. Two rivers run through this town, and a third washes one end of it; bridges are laid over each, they being pretty deep. It had formerly several remarkable and stately temples and chappels, famous on account of several fabulous stories reported of them. But in a late dreadful fire in 1686, which consum'd the whole town, they were all laid in ashes. The town indeed hath been since rebuilt, much handsomer than it was before, as was also one of the temples, now standing in a spacious Square ground all pav'd with square stones. Having had all opportunity in our second journey to court, of viewing this temple more particularly, I refer the reader as to a farther description. We travell'd this day through a barren mountainous country, as far as Cambara. From thence we came through a plain, which as far as Josiiwara particularly about this village, was fruitful enough, atl planted chiefly with rice, but higher up became more barren and sandy, tho' not without some middling good spots of ground.   [ 511]    On Sunday March 11, we set out in Cangos after Sunrise, in order to be carried over the mountains of Fakone through several villages and hamlets, which I have set down in the map, as far as the town of Odowara, being eight miles distant from Misijma. In the forenoon we had four miles to go up hill, the ground being for the most part sandy and barren, tho' in some places not without plenty of reed, and reed grass. My Dodsutski, or Japanese road book, gives a particular advice to travellers to take care of themselves in this desart and solitary way At the top of the mountain we took notice of a Boundstone put up on the side of the road, where the Province of Idsu borders upon that of Sagami, at the entry of the dominions of Odowara. From thence we went down hill for the length of ten streets, as the way of speaking is, or thereabouts, and after an hour's travelling we came to the village Togitz, or as it is commonly called Fakone, from the mountains at the foot whereof it lies. We din'd here, having made half our day's journey. This place is remarkable for its situation and several other things, but particularly for the lake of Fakone, on which it lies, tho' every where encompass'd with mountains. The village itself reckons 250 houses, or rather small cottages, built chiefly along one long and irregular street, upon the SouthEast shore of the lake. This lake is every where surrounded with high mountains, which shut it up on all sides in such a manner, that there is no room to apprehend its overflowing the adjacent country. Tho' the mountainSv which encompass it, be of a very great height, yet the top of Fusino Jamma rises still higher, being seen to the W. N. W. by the Inhabitants of Togitz. The breadth of this lake, from East to West, is something above half Japanese mile, and its length from South to North full a mile. I was told, that not far from its Northern shores, there was a very rich Gold-Oar dug up. From the Eastern shore rises aloft the high mountain Fitango Jamma, which runs up tapering almost into a point, at the foot of which lies the village Motto Fakone, and between that and Togitz, the village Dsoogassima, which is as much as to say, the Island Dsoo, or Ssio. There is no going round this lake, by reason of the steep mountains which encompass it, and which in several places have asmost perpendicular precipices terminating into the lake. But they cross over, in small boats, to what part of the shores they please. It is said to yield plenty of fish, and of different sorts, of which however they could name me but two, to wit, Salmons, which are very large and fat, and another sort, which we call Strohmling. We were told, that in tormer times this place sunk in by a violent earthquake, and that in lieu of it sprung up this lake. In proof of this they advance the great quantity of incorruptible Suggi, or cedar trunks, of an uncommon size, which lie at the bottom, and are fetch'd up from thence by divers, when the Lord of the place commands it, or hath occasion for them. For the neighbourhood produces every where great plenty of this tree, and the tallest and finest    [ 512]    cedars that are to be found any where in Japan. The air of the place is cold, moist, heavy, and withal very unhealthy, insomuch that strangers cannot live there, without impairing their health, particularly in the winter. Mr. van Camphuysen, Director General of the Dutch East India Company at Batavia, often assur'd me, that the weakness and indifferent state of health, which attended him after he was rais'd to that eminent post, was oxving entirely to the unhealthiness of this village, through which he pass'd in his journey to court, when he was Director of our Factory in Japan. In the Summer, indeed, it must be pleasant enough to lie at this place, because one is not incommoded and pester'd with flies and gnats. At the end of the village, where the roads grows narrower, there is such another Imperial Guard, as I took notice above there was at Array. It is likewise call'd Gosikkiso, and hath been establish'd to seize upOn all arms or women, if any should be attempted, by any body whatever, to be carried from Jedo Westwards of the said place. It is stronger than that of Array, and people are examin'd with more rigour, it being, as it were, the key to the Imperial capital, which none of the Western Princes, nor indeed any body that comes from those Pro vinces, can avoid passing through in their journeys to court. For besides that the road on both sides of the Guard-house is very narrow, and shut up by several strong gates, Nature herself hath fortify'd this place by inaccessible mountains to the right, and the lake above describ'd to the left. After dinner we continu'd our journey, down the mountains, to the place, where we intended to lie that night, travelling all the while through a very pleasant road, which offer'd to our view agreeable limpid streams, falling down from the neighbouring mountains, and several curious plants and shrubs. In the first place we came to the Imperial guard at the end of the village, where all the Japanese came out of their Norimons and Cangos, and those on horseback alighted from their horses, presenting themselves very respectfully and bareheaded, to be search'd, which however was done but slightly. If there be any the least suspicion of a woman disguis'd in manzs cloaths, they must be more narrowly search'd, with this difference however, that in this case they are examin'd by women. Private persons going up to Jedo, must shew their Passports at this place, otherwise they are kept under arrest for three days, before they are permitted to pursue their journey. A little beyond the village, not far from the guard gates, just upon the shores of the lake, we took notice of five indiferent small wooden chappels, standinr in a row. In the two first stood the busto of an old woman upon an altar, and there was a Priest in each sitting, and playing a Namanda upon a bell, that is, beating with a hammer upon a small flat bell, whilst howling with a frightful noise, and murmuring between their teeth, they repeat the short Prayer, Namu Amidu Budzu, or contracted Namanda, being the form of ad-    [ 513]    dressing Amida tor the relief of departed souls. All the Japanese foot travellers of our retinue threw them some Casses, or farthings into the chappel, and in return receiv'd each a paper, which they carried bareheaded, with great respect, to the shore, in order to throw it into the lake, having first tied a stone to it, that it might be sure to go down to the bottom. These blind superstitious people believe, that the bottom of this lake is the purgatory for children, svhich die before seven years of age, and are there tormented, till their redemption is brought about by some way or other. They are told so by their priests, who tor their comfort assure them, that as soon as the water washes off the names and characters of the Gods and Saints, which are writ upon the papers they give them, the children at the bottom feel great relief, if they do not obtain a full and effectual redemption. Our footmen therefore would not miss the opportunity of doing so good a work for the benefit of their own, or their relations children, not doubting but that thereby they would be undoubtedly reliev'd. I have seen the very same thing done by priests themselves. The place, where the souls of these children are said to be confin'd, is called Sainokawara, and a heap of stones in form of a pyramid hath been laid upon the shore, to shew, where it is. Amidst the abovesaid chappels stands the small temple Fackone Gongin, a very famous for several remarkable curiosities, which are a kept and shewn there. Such are: four sabres or scimeters great and small, with the handles made of Sawaas? and inlaid with gold, one of the four being still rusty with blood, so as to stick fast to the sheaths, they belong'd formerly to certain ancient heroes, whose names and heroick achievements, said to be done with the very same swords I purposely omit: two fine branches of coral: two horns of horses, each two Suns, and six Bus long, and equally thick: two vast large cockleshells; two stones, one taken out of a cow, the other out of a stag: a suit of cloth made of Ama, such as the Angels wear in Heaven and can fly with: the comb of the first secular monarch Joritomo, with his coat of arms upon it: the bell of Kobodais, founder of the N. sect, which he rung, when in prayers, and a letter wrote by Takimine's own hand. Every one of these curiosities, which they call Gongins, or jewels, hath its particular name, as being reckon'd exceedingly scarce and valuable things. From thence we went down a crooked, stony path, sometimes on the side, sometimes at the foot of the mountain Fitango, and having made about a mile, there presented it self to our view, as we were looking round some trees, on our right the high and beautiful mountain Come Jamma, crown'd with lofty trees growing close together, on our left a very remarkable Cataract. For the lake of Togitz, or Fakone being entirely surrounded with mountains, hath no other outlet but through one of these mountains, being the same which is call'd Fitangojama, and which lets the water come through three different openings, from whence they fall down the mountain side in the    [ 514]    nature of Cataracts to a considerable height, and soon receiving other rivulets, from the neighbouring mountains, form themselves into a river, which with a frightful horrid noise crosses the valley, running down over stones and sometimes precipices towards the sea. The road was all along very narrow, sometimes along the banks of this river, sometimes higher, and the descent in the main was much more steep and difficult than we found the ascent in the forenoon. However, some amends were made us, for the troubles and difficulties of the road, by the agreeable prospects and variety of things, which occurred to our view. Eastwards we discover'd the sea across a ronq of mountains. All around us we were deliahted by the green sides of the mountains, beset with various sorts of tall and curious trees, and a wonderful variety of plants and flowers. The plants, which grow upon these mountains, are esteem'd by the physicians of the country to have greater virtues in proportion, than others of the same kind growing elsewhere, and are therefore carefully gathernd and laid by for physical uses. They have a particular value for a very beautiful sort of an Adiantum, or cappillus veneris, with shining purple black stalks, and ribbs, which is said far to exceed in virtues all the rest of this family. It growing plentifully upon these mountains, there is hardly any body passes there, but takes some provision along with him, for his own use, or that of his family. It is known by no other name, but that of Fa ckona ksa, that is, the Plant of Fackone. The places we travell'd through this afternoon were, Hatta, or Fatta, a village of about an hundred houses, where the abovesaid river receives the brook Osawa, and soon becomes broad enough to have three bridges laid over it, each nine Kin or fathom long. We went over these bridges. Near this village, to the right, is a temple of the Sensju sect call'd Tawanodira. Jumotta, which is as much as to say, warm Water, is a double dispers'd village. It borrowrd its name from a hot source which arises in a wood beyond the river, and being soon receiv'd by another small brook, they run jointly for sometime, till at last they discharge their waters into the above said river. Behind the village is a Sorinsi temple, and two Dsitso Temples within it, with some Dsitso columns standing before them. Near one of these temples they shew upon a stone the miraculous impression of the right foot of a son, who with great courage and magnanimity reveng'd the unjust death of his father. The story, or rather fable, doth not deserve to be here inserted. Isiuda is another village, to the left of which stands a stately temple call'd Tsjo-Tai-si, built on a court pav'd with square stones. On one side of the court stands a fine fountain, on the other a table with olden characters upon it, and not far from it the Tsjo Too San, or temple-gate, which is built of stone with an Inscription, likewise in golden characters. Kattama, or Ka'amatz, an inconsiderable village, opposite to which, to the right, is situate the green    [ 515]    mountain Iskaki Jamma, very famous in Japanese histories, being the mountain, on which the great Emperor Taiko lay once with his army It was otherwise call'd Sijro Jamma, that is Castle Mountain, from a strong castle, which Joritomo had built there. Without the village there is a way going up to a neighbouring high hill, call'd Odowara Isij, or Odowara Ijsch, from a famous quarry, where they dig up a parti cular sort of a stone, which is carried to Jedo, and there cut into pots, which will bear fire. A quarter of a mile from this village, and about half an hour after iour, we came to Odowaranoitzi, or the suburbs of the town of Odowara, which is most pleasantly seated not far from the Sea. The suburbs begin upon the very banks of the river, which arises from the lake of Fakona, and discharges it self into the Sea, not far from thence, having finish'd its course between pleasant mountains and green hills, which extend as far as Odowara, and are wash'd on one side by the Sea, ending on the other into a large plain about a German mile long, on which the town stands. The town is well defended with strong gates and guard houses, ornamented with handsome structures on each side. The streets within are broad, neat and rezular, particularly the middle street is remarkable for its largeness. The town is longer than broad, and it is full half an hours riding from one end of the suburbs to the other. It reckons about a thousand small houses very neatly built, white wash'd for the most part, with square court yards before. and curious gardens behind. On the North-side of the town stands the castle and residence of the Prince, which presents it self, as usual, by a beautiful high tower. The temples are built on the same side, in the ascent of the mountain. The empty shops shew, that there is no great trade, nor manufactures carried on at this place, for all it lies so near the Sea. However, the perfumed Catechu or Terra Japonica, is prepar'd here, and made up into pills, small Idols, flowers, and several other forms, which are afterwards put into small neat boxes, and sold for use. The women particularly love and use it much, because it

 

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Mappa Specialis Itineris Terrestris a Pago Fammamatz ad IEDO, Summi Japoniae Monarchae, Sedem, Suscepti ab ENGELBERTO KAEMPFERO Ad Autoris Orig. & Observationes delineatam sistit. J.G.S.

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fastens the teeth, and renders their breath agreeable. This inspissated juice is lmported into Japan unprepar'd, by the Dutch and Chinese, and after it hath been prepar'd at Miaco, or Odowara, and mix'd with amber, camphire of Borneo, and other things, they buy it up, and export it a again. The politeness in the dress and the civil behaviour of the Inhabitants of this place, particularly the womer, are a proof, that there are only rich people live here, which are under no necessity of getting their livelihood by trade, but are able to maintain themselves by their own revenues, and chose this town to live in, preferably to other places, by reason of its good air and pleasant situation. But the young boys were full as insolent with regard to us, as we founc them at Fakona, and by their bawling and crying after us, shew'd that there is not much care taken of their education. This town, with its district, be-    [ 516]    long'd formerly to the family of Minosama, and Inaba Mino no Cami, was the last of that family, who had it in possession. It now belongs to Cangosama, President of the Emperor's Council of state. Upon our arrival at Odowara, we dispatch'd an express to Jedo, to notify the same to our landlord there.

On Monday March 12. We set out early in the morning, in order to get in the forenoon as far as Fusisawa, which is eight miles distant from Odowara. Having left Odowara we first came to the river Sakava, which, tho' it was then not above three foot deep, is yet so rapid, and when swell'd, rushes down with so much violence, that they were necessitated to raise its banks, and to fortify them with strong dikes fill'd with stones and bushes, lest it should break thro' and set the adjacent low country under water. We were ferried over this river in flat boats, and then pass'd thro' the following places, Sakava, and Koosi, two villages of about an hundred houses each. Mejigawa, and Misawa, two other villages of about two hundred houses each. Before we came to the latter, we pass'd over a bridge fifty paces long. After about an hour's travelling from Misawa, we came to Koysa, a small town of some hundred houses, and half a mile further to the village Firatzka, which reckons about 300 house5 Before we came to this village, we cross'd a river of the same name, riding over a bridge an hundred paces long Half a mile further we pass'd another village Bansju, or Bendju, of about an hundred houses, and a large river of the same name, which is very famous among the Japanese. It rushes down to the Sea with great force, and tho' it was then very shallow, yet its rapidity would not permit us to ford it thro', so that we made use of flat prows, which are very proper to cross rivers of this kind, by reason, as hath been observ'd above, of the thinness of their bottom, which will yield to the shock of the waves, and to stones lying in the bed of the river. The mountains, which we had till then seen on our left, sometimes pretty near us, sometimes at a greater distance, ended here in a large plain, whereof we could see no end, it running up as far as Jedo. After we had been ferried over this river, we continued our journey thro' an uncultivated spot of ground (wherein however there are three villages, Matzija, Nango and Kowanda, or Kowarav the Inhabitants whereof get their livelihood merely by travellers) till we came to the village Jootsuja. A mile on this side Jootsuja, opposite to the village Kawanda or Komara, there appears, not far from the coasts, a very singular rock arising out of the sea in form of a Pyramid, and about a mile off the coasts, directly South, lies the famous Island, Kamakura. which signifies coasts. It seems to be round, small, not above a mile in compass, full of timber, otherwise flat; the coasts only are extraordinary high, so that we could see them at a considerable distance. The Emperor confines here some of his disgrac'd Noblemen, who, when once sent to this Island, may be sure to spend there the remainder of their life. The coasts are steep and rockJ like those of the Island Fatsisio, and there being no ascent    [ 517]    round the whole Island, the boats, which bring prisoners or provisions, must be hawl'd up, and let down again bs a crane. About a mile from JootsuJa, we came to the town of Fusisawa, where we dined tho' not in the Inn we us'd to go to, it being then full. Fusisawa consists only of one street, which is about half a mile long. A river runs thro' it, which a quarter of a mile from the town discharges itself into the sea. Having had the sea on our right ever since Odowara, we now lost it again, the coasts running S. S. E. for about six miles, so that continuing our journey we saw for four miles together nothing but Land on both sides of the road, till we came to Fodogai, where we met the sea again, and thenceforward did not lose sight of it till we came to Jedo. But before we quit this place, I must not forget to mention, that at the end of it there liv'd in a Monastery an old grey Monk, fourscore years of age, and a native of Nagasaki. He had spent the greatest part of his life in holy pilgrimates, running up and down the country, and visiting almost all the temples of the Japanese Empire. The superstitious vulgar had got such a high notion of his holiness, that even in his life-time they canoniz'd and reverenc'd him as a great Saint, and would worship his statue, which he caus'd to be carv'd of stone, exceeding in this even Alexander the Great, who had no divine honours paid him during his life. Those of his countrymen, who were of our retinue, did not fail to run thither, whilst we were at dinner, to see and pay their respect to that holy man. After dinner we continu'd our journey as far as Canagawa Two miles from Funisawa, we came to a small town callrd Totzka, which together with its suburbs, 5 consisted of about 500 houses built on both sides of a river. We were half an hour travelling from the beginnltlg of the chief and middle street, which runs irregularly) and in some places along the course of the river to the end. Two miles further we came to another town or village call'd Fodogai, likewise consisting of one long and irregular street, running first East, then North East, and containing several hundred houses, part of which being destroy'd by a late fire, lay still in ashes.

Fodogai lies on the Sea, where the coasts form a sort of a small gulf, or inlet, into which the river, which runs thro) the town, discharges itself, making a secure harbour for pleasure-boats, several of which we saw there at anchor near the mouth of the river. The night overtook us here, but we continu'd our journey one mile further by moonshine, travelling along the coasts, as far as the small town or village of Canagawa, where we arriv'd at nine in the evening, and lay that night, having made this after noon five miles. This town consisted of one street of about 600 houses, and was near half a mile long. Tho it hath the name of a river, yet there is none runs thro' it. The Inhabitants have all their drinking-water from some wells dug at the foot of a mountain or rather long hill at the end of the town. It is clear, but tastes somewhat brackish. The coasts hereabouts appear at lowwater to be a soft muddy clay. The country we had this day travell'd thro', was exceedingly populous and fruitful, particularly towards the latter end of our    [ 518]    journey it became plain, with a few rising hills, and an almost continued row of towns and villages: The fields we took notice, were cover'd in several places with ropes of straw, ty'd to canes, which made a very uncommon appearance. This was done to keep the birds from damaging the growth.

On Tuesday March 13, we set out before break of day, tho' we had but six miles left to reach our Inn in the Imperial capital of Jedo. We travell'd chiefly along the Sea, through a fruitful, and populous country. The most remarkable places we pass'd through, in our way thither, were the village Tsisi, or Tsisicku, not far from Canagawa, of about 150 houses, and half a mile further the town of Kawasaki of upwards of 300. Near the latter we cross'd a smooth but deep river in boats, and came to a small hamlet call'd Rockingo, where we saw several fisher-boatsz there being very good fishing upon the neighbourinct coasts. A mile and a half further we came to another fisher's village, Tsusunomoori, where we staid a little while. They catch here plenty of shell-fish, the coasts from Canagawa being very shallow, with a smooth soft clay at the bottom, where the shell-fish, and submarine plants, chiefly Alga3, are found plentifully, and are in low , ater gather'd for victuals. I took notice, that they prepar'd the Alga marina for the table in the following manner: There are chiefly two sorts of plants found growing upon the shells they take up; one is green and thin, the other reddish and broader. They are both tore off and sorted, each sort is afterwards put into a tub of fresh water and well wash'd. This done, the green sort is laid upon a piece of wood, and with a large knife cut small like Tobacco, then again wash'd, and put into a large square wooden sieve, two foot long, where there is fresh water pour'd upon it, to make the pieces stick close together: having lain there for some time, they take it up with a sort of a comb made of reed, and press it with the hand into a compact substance, squeezing the water out, and so lay it in the Sun to dry. The red sort, which is found in much less quantity than the green, is not cut small, otherwise they prepare it much after the same manner, and form it into cakes, which are dried and sold for use. At the end of this village is a Fatzman Temple, or a Temple built in honour of the God of War of the Japanese, wherein is kept a smooth black stone, call'd i Susunotsi, or the famous stone of Susu. It lies upon a ' shelf of Bambous in the middle of the Temple, and is shewn to pious travellers, as a remaining monument and convincing proof of some fabulous story. Behind the Stone hangs a sheet of paper cut in the form of a net, or grate, to prevent people's seeing, what other holy things are kept in the back part of the temple. At the upper end of the wall, a drawn sword was hung a-cross, with two small carv'd figures of horses, all which bear some relation to the same fabulous story, which the monks tell to superStltlous people concerning the stone aforesaid.    [ 519]    Half a mlle further begins Sinagawa, one of the suburbs of Jedo, which is reckoned two miles distant from that capital, or rather from its chief bridge. (called Niponbas, that is the bridge of Japan, by way of pre-eminence:) It is otherwise contiguous to the true suburb, as we took notice above, Fudsimi was to that of Miaco. Just before we came to Sinagawa, the place of publick executions offePd to our view a very shocking and unpleasing sight, human heads and bodies, some tending to putrefaction, some half devour'd, lying among other dead carcasses, with multi tudes of dogs, ravens, crows, and other ravenous beasts and birds, waiting to satisfy their devouring appetites upon these miserable remains.

Sinagawa is so call'd from a small river, which runs thro' it. It consists of one long irregu]ar street, which hath the sea on the right, and a hill on the left, on which stand some temples. Some few narrow streets and lanes turn off from the great one towards these temples, some of which are very large and spacious buildings, and all pleasantly seated, adorn'd within with gilt idols, without with large carvGd idols, curious gates, and stony stair cases leading up to them. One of them was remarkable for a magnificent tower four stories high. In the main, tho' the Japanese spare no trouble nor expence to adorn and beautify their temples, yet the best fall far short of that loftiness, symmetry and stateliness, which is observ able in some of our European Churches. At the entry of this suburb, on our left, we took notice of a large square stately palace, perhaps the residence of some Prince, encloswd with a wall and several other buildings. Having rode about three quarters of a mile thro' Sinagawa, we went into a small Inn, pleasantly seated on the sea-side, there to refresh, and to prepare ourselves for our entry into Jedo. From this Inn we had a full view of the city, and its spacious lofty buildings, as also of the harbour, then, as indeed it is all times, crowded with many hundred ships and boats of all sizes and shapes, the smallest pleasure-boats and other boats lying nearest the city, the largest barges and merchant-ships one or two leagues of, they being not able to go hifrher, by reason of its shalloW~ness. The Innkeeper told us, that young Gentlemen of quality often resorted to this Inn incognito, because of the fine view. Having refreshnd our selves with victuals, dress'd after the Japanese manner, and our horses and every thing being ready for our entry into Jedo, we set out after about an hours stay. Our Bugjo quitted his Norimon here, and went on horseback, people of his extraction being not suffer'd to enter the capital of the Empire in a Norimon. We travell'd about a quarter of a mile to the end of the suburbs of Sinagawa, and then enter'd the suburbs of Jedo, which are only a continuation At of the former, there being nothing to separate them but a En small guard-house. The sea comes here so close to the Je4 foot ot the hill, that there is but one row of small houses built between it, and the road, which for some time runs along the coasts, but soon widens into several irregular streets of a considerable length, which after about half an hours riding became broader, more uniform, handsom and regular, whence, and    [ 520]    from the great throng of people, we concluded, that we were now got into the city. Just at the entry of the city we pass'd across the fish-market, where they sold several sorts of sub-marine plants, shells, cockles, sea-qualms and fish, which are all eat here. We kept to the great middle street, which runs Northward across the whole city, tho' somewhat irregularly. We pass'd over several stately bridges, laid over small rivers and muddy ditches, which run on our left towards the castle, and on our right towards the sea, as do also several streets) all which turn off from the great one. Among the bridges, there is one of 42 fathom in length, famous all over Japan, because from it, as from a common center, are measured the roads, and distances of places to all parts ot the Empire. It is call'd Niponbas, that is, the bridge N of Japan, by way of preeminence, and seem'd to be about 600 paces distant from the outermost ditch, which encompasses the castle, and sends down that branch of the river, over which the bridge is laid. The throng of people along this chief and middle street, which is about 50 paces broad, and crosses the whole city, running Northwards, tho' not very regularly, is incredible, and we met, as we rode along, many numerous trains of Princes of the Empire and great men at court, and Ladies richly apparell'd, carried in chairs and palankins. Among other people we met a company of fire-men on foot, being about one hundred in number) walking much in the same military order as ours do in Europe: they were clad in brown leather-coats to defend them against the fire, and some carried long pikes, others fire-hooks upon their shoulders: their Captain rode in the middle. On both sides of the streets are multitudes of well furnish'd shops of merchants and tradesmen, drapers, silk-merchants, druggists, Idolsellers, booksellers, glass-blowers, apothecaries and others. A black cloth hanging down covers one half of the shop. They stood out a little way into the street, and curious patterns of the things sold therein, lay expos'd to people's sight. We took notice, that there was scarce any body here had curiosity enough to come out of his house, in order to see us go by, as they had done in other places, probably because such a small retinue as ours, had nothing remarkable or uncommon to amuse the inhabitants of so populous a city, the residence of a powerful Monarch, where they have daily opportunities to see others far more pompous and magnificent. Having rode about a mile along this great street, and pass'd by 50 other streets, which turn'd off on both sides, we at last turn'd in ourselves, and coming to our Inn, we found our lodgings ready in the upper story of a back-house, which had no other access but a by-lane, not far from the entry of the street on the left. We arriv'd there at one in the afternoon, having compleated our journey from Nagasacki in 29 days.

The better to understand the description of Jedo in this and the following Chapter, the Reader is desir'd to consult Fig.120 being the Plan of this Capital, faithfully abridg'd from a large Plan, four foot and a half long, and as many broad, which was made by the Japanese themselves, and is now in the hands of Sir Hans Sloane.)   [521]    

 

 

Chap. XII Description of the City of Jedo, its Castle and Palace, with an account of what happen'd during our stay there; our Audience and Departure.

Of the five great trading towns, wnich belong to the Imperial demesns, or crown lands, Jedo is the first and chief, the residence of the Emperor, the capital, and by much the largest city of the Empire, by reason of the many Princes and Lords, who with their families and numerous the Imperial court, and the inhabitants of the city, to an incredible number. It is seated in the X province Musasi in 35, 32' of Northern Latitude, according to my own observations, on a large plain, at i the end of a gulph, which is plentifully stored with fish, crabs, and shells, and hath Kamakura and the Province Idsu on the right, sailing down from Jedo, and the two provinces Awa and Kudsu on the left, but is so shallow, with a muddy clay at the bottom, that no ships of any considerable bulk can come up to the city, but must be unladen a league or two below it. Towards the sea the city hath the figure of a halfmoon, and the Japanese will have it to be seven miles long, five broad, and twenty in circumference. It is not enclos'd with a wall, no more than other towns in Japan, but cut through by many broad ditches and canals, with high ramparts rais'd on both sides, at the top whereof are planted rows of trees, but this hath been done, not so mUch for the defence of the city, as to prevent the fires, which happen here too frequently, from making too great a havocke I took notice however, that towards the castle, these ramparts are shut up by strong gates, probably because they serve there for defence too. A large river arising Westwards of the city runs through it, and loses itself in the harbour. It sends off a considerable arm, which encompasses the castle, and thence falls down intO the said harbour in five different streams, every one of which hath its particular name, and a stately bridge laid over it. The chief and most famous of these bridges, by reason of its bigness and stateliness, is call'd Niponbas, or the bridge of Japan, of which in the preceding chapter. Another is call'd Jedo Baschi, that is, the bridge of Jedo.

This city is extream populous, and the number of natives, foreiCners, and ecclesiasticks almost incredible, and indeed it cannot be otherwise, considering the multitude of officers of all ranks, posts and quality, who compose the imperial court, but more particularly the families of all the princes of the Empire, which stay there all the year round, with numerous retinues suitable to their quality, whilst the princes    [ 522]    themselves are allow'd but six months absence from court, during which they take care of the government of their hereditary dominions, and then return to Jedo.

Jedo is not built with that regularity, which is observable in most other cities in Japan (particularly Miaco,) and this because it swell'd by degrees to its present bulk. However, in some parts of the town the streets run regularly enough, cutting each other at right angles. This regularity is entirely owing to accidents of fire, whereby some hundred houses being laid in ashes at once, as indeed it very frequently happens, the new streets may be laid out, upon what plan the builders please. Many of these places, which have been thus destroy'd by fire, lie still waste, the houses being not built here with that dispatch, as they are at Moscow, where they sell them ready made, so that there needs nothing but to remove and set them up, where they are wanted, without lime, clay, or nails, any time after the fire. The houses in Jedo are small and low, as indeed they are in all other parts of the Empire, built of firwood, with thin clay'd walls, adorn'd within, and divided into rooms by paper skreens, and lattice windows. The floors are coverd with fine mats) the roofs with shavings of wood. In short, the vhole machine is a composition of so much combustible matter) that we need not wonder at the great havock fires make in this country. Almost every house hath a place under the roof, or upon it, where they constantly keep a tub full of water, with a couple of maps, which may be easily come at, even without the house, by the help of ladders By this precaution indeed they often quench a fire in particular houses, but it is far from being sufficient to stop the fury of a raging flame, which hath got ground already, and laid several houses in ashes, against which they know no better remedy at present, but to pull down some of the neighbouring houses, which have not yet been reach'd, for which purpose whole companies of firemen patrol about the streets day and night. The city; is well stock'd with monks, temples, monasteries, and other religious buildings, which are seated in the best and pleasantest places, as they are also in Europe, and I believe, all other countries. The dwelling houses of private monks are no ways diferent from those of the laity, excepting only that they are seated in some eminent conspicuous place, with some steps leading up to them, and a small temple, or chappel hard by, or if there be none, at least a hall or large room, adorn'd with some few altars, on which stand several of their Idols. There are, besides many stately temples built to Amida, Siaka, Quanwon, and several other of their Gods, of all sects and religions establishvd in Japan: But as they do not differ much neither in form nor structure from other temples erected to the same Gods at Miaco, which we shall have an opportunity to view and describe more particularly upon our return to that city, I forbear at present swelling this Chapter with an account thereof.   [ 523]    There are many stately palaces in this city, as may be easily conjectur'd by its being the residence of a powerful Emperor) and the abode of aIl the noble and princely famllies of this mighty Empire. They are separate and distinguish'd from other houses, by large court-yards and stately gates; fine varnish'd stair-cases, of a few steps lead up to the door of the house, which is divided into several magnificent apartments, all of a floor, they being not above one story high, nor adorn'd with towers, as the castles and palaces are, where the Princes and Lords of the Empire reside in their hereditary dominions. The city of Jedo is a nursery of artists, handicraftsmen merchants and tradesmen, and yet every thing is sold dearer, than any where else in the Empire, by reason of the great concourse of people, and the number of idle monks and courtiers, as also the difficult importing of provisions and other commodities. The political government of this city, is much the same as at Nagasaki and Osacca, whereto I refer the Reader as to a more ample description. Two Governors have the command of the town by turns, each for the space of one year. The chief subaltern officers, are the Burghermasters, as the Dutch call them, or Mayors, who have the command of particular quarters, and the Ottona's, who have the inspection and subordinate command of single streets.

The castle and residence of the Emperor is seated about the middle of the city. It is of an irregular figure inclining to the round, and hath five Japanese miles in circumference. It consists of two enclosures, or forecastles, as one may call them, the innermost and third castle, which is properly the residence of the Emperor, two other strong well fortified, but smaller castles at the sides, and some large gardens behind the Imperial Palace. I call all these several divisions castles, because they are separately, and every one by itself, enclos'd with walls and ditches. The first and outermost castle takes in a large spot of ground, which encompasses the second, and half the Imperial residence, and is encloszd itself with walls and ditches, and strong well guarded gates. It hath so many streets, ditches and canals, that I could not easily get a plan of it: Nor could I gather any thing to my satisfaction out of the plans of the Japanese themselves, which however, such as they are, I do here present to the Reader, together with the plan of the city of Jedo itself (Fig. 120) In this outermost castle reside the Princes of the Empire, with their families, living in commodious and stately palaces, built in streets, with spacious courts shut up by strong heavy gates. The second castle takes in a much smaller spot of ground; it fronts the third, and residence of the Emperor, and is inclos'd by the first, but separate from both by walls, ditches) draw-bridges, and strong gates: The guard of this second castle is much more numerous, than that of the first. In it are the stately palaces of some of the most powerful Princes of the Empire, the Councellors    [ 524]    of state, the prime ministers, chief officers of the crown, and such other persons, who must give a more immediate attendance upon the Emperor's person. The castle itself, where the Emperor resides, is seated somewhat higher, than the others on the top of a hill, which hath been purposely flatted for the Imperial palace to be built upon it. It is enclos'd with a thick strong wall of free stone, with bastions standing out much after the manner of the European fortifications. A rampart of earth is rais'd against the inside of this wall, and at the top of it stand, for ornament and defence, several long buildings and square guardhouses built in form of towers several stories high. Particularly the structures on that side, where the Imperial residence is, are of an uncommon strength, all of free stone of an extraordinary size, which are barely laid upon each other, without being fasten'd, either with mortar or braces of iron, which was done, they say, that in case of earthquakes, which frequently happen in this country, the stones yielding to the shock, the wall itself should receive no damage. Within the palace a square white tower rises aloft above all other buildings. It is many stories high, adorn'd with roofs, and other curious ornaments) which makes the whole castle look at a distance maanificent beyond expression, amazing the beholders, as do also the many other beautiful bended roofs, with gilt dragons at the top and corners, which cover the rest of the buildings within the castle. The second castle is very small and more like a citadel, without any outward ornament at all. It hath but one door, and there is but one passage to it, out of the Emperor's own residence, over a high long bridge. The third castle lies on the side of this second, and is much of the same structure. Both are enclosed with strong high walls, which for a still better defence are encompass'd with broad deep ditches, fillad by the great river. In these two castles are bred up the Imperial Princes and Princesses, if there be any. Behind the Imperial residence there is still a rising ground, beautified according to the country fashion, with curious and magnificent gardens and orchards, which are terminated by a pleasant wood at the top of a hill, planted with two particular differing and curious kinds of plane-trees, whose starry leaves variegated with green, yellow and red, are very pleasing to the eye. It is remarkable, what they affirm of these trees, that one kind is in full beauty in the spring, the other towards the autumn. The palace itself hath but one story, which however is of a fine height. It takes in a large spot of ground, and hath several long galleries and spatious rooms, which upon putting on or removing of skreens, may be enlarged or brought into a narrower compass, as occasion requires, and are contriv'd so, as to receive at all times a convenient and sufficient light. The chief apartments have each its particular name. Such are for instance, the waiting room, where all persons, that are to be admitted to an audience, either of the Emperor or of his prime ministers of state,    [ 525]    wait, till they are introduced; the council chamber, where the ministers of state and privy counsellors meet upon business, the hall of thousand mats, where the Emperor receives the homage and usual presents of the princes of the Empire, and ambassadors of foreign powers; several halls of audience; the apartments for the Emperor's houshold, and others. The structure of all these several apartments is exquisitely fine, according to the architecture of the country. The cielings, beams, and pillars are of cedars or camphire, or Jeseriwood, the grain whereof naturally runs into flowers and other curious figures, and is therefore in some apartments cover'd only with a thin transparent layer of varnish, in others japan'd, or curiously carv'd with birds and branched work neatly gilt. The floor is cover'd with the finest white mats, border'd with Cold fringes or bands; and this is all the furniture to be seen in the palaces of the Emperor and Princes of the Empire. I was told that there is a particular private apartment under ground, which instead of the cieling hath a large reservoir of water, and that the Emperor repairs thither, when it lightens, because they believe that the force of lightning is broke in the water. But this I deliver only upon hearsay. There are also two strong rooms wherein are kept the Imperial Treasures, and these are secured from fire and thieves by strong iron doors, and roofs of copper. In this castle resided the successors of the Emperor Jejas, the first of this family who govern'd the Empire of Japan in the following order. 1. Jejas, after his death call'd Gongin. 2. Teitokwin his son. 3. Daijojin, a son of Teitokwin. 4. Genjojin, a son of Daijojin, and 5. Tsinajos, the now reigning monarch, Genjojills brother's son. Thus much of the castle and residence of the Secular Emperor of Japan. I proceed now to resume the thread of my journal.

As soon as we came to our inn, we sent our second Interpreter, the first and chief not beinz able to go out by reason of his indisposition, to notify our arrival to the Imperial commissioners appointed for inspecting and retulating foreign affairs, and to that of the Governors of Nagasaki, who was then at Jedo, being Genseimon, who for his great care in regulating the affairs of foreign trade, in the year 1685, to the advantage of his country, and the entire satisfaction of the Emperor, was by him honournd with the title and character of Sino Cami. He forthwith gave orders to our Bugjo to keep us close to our apartments, and to suffer no body to come up to us, besides our own servants, which orders they never fail strictly to comply with, though otherwise one should have thought our apartments sufficiently remote from the street) being the upper story of a back house, to which there was no entry, but through a narrow passage, which could be lock'd up, if needful. For a farther security there were two doors, one at the upper, and another at the 1ower end of the stair case, and the rooms were shut up on three sides. My room had one single narrow window,    [ 526]    through which I could, with much ado, observe the meridian height of the sun. We were told, that four days before our arrival, forty streets and upwards of 4ooo houses had been burnt down. This very evening a fire broke out about two leagues from our Inn to the East, but was soon extinguish'd, having laid only a few houses in ashes.

On the 14th of March, the Imperial Commissioners, and Sino Cami, sent to congratulate us upon our happy arrival, and to acquaint us in the mean time, that they had notified the same to the Counsellors of state. The same day we opennd, in the presence of our Bugjo, and another officer sent by Sino Cami, the presents which were to be made to the Emperor and the great men at court, and bespoke the necessary boxes for Calamback and Camphire of Borneo.

On the 14 of March, two taylors came to cut the European stuffs for the Emperor, as usual. The same day we bespoke bottles and other vessels for the tent and Spanish Wines, and wooden tables to lay the presents upon. Our Bugjo went to pay a visit to Sino Cami, by whom he was strictly forbid not to give any body leave to see us, before we had been admitted to an audience of the Emperor, unless he receiv'd express orders from him, Sino Cami, for so doing. This evening another fire broke out about two leagues from our Inn, but did no great damage.

On the 17th of March, we were acquainted by our Bugjo with news from Nagasaki, importing, that within a fortnight after our departure from thence twenty Chinese wonks were got safe into that harbour. He desir'd us at the same time not to throw any papers, with European characters upon them, out of our windows amongst the dust. This morning we again perceived fire not far from

On the 18th of March, we were busy about drawing the tent and Spanish wines into long bottles and flasks, and putting the Galambak and Camphire into boxes, and regulating all things as they were to be presented to the Emperor at the next audience. This evening a violent fire broke out near a mile and a half from our Inn Westwards, and a Northerly wind blowing pretty strong at the same time, it burnt with such violence, that it laid twenty five streets, though they were very broad there, and about 600 houses in ashes, within four hours time, before it could be put out. It was said to have been laid in by incendiaries, two of which were seiz'd.

On the 20th of March, we were told, that Matzandairo Inaba Cami, who was to go to Miaco in quality of chief justice of that place, set out from Jedo accordingly on his way thither, attended by another lord, who was to present him to the people, and at the same time to bring presents from the Emperor to the Dairi. Sino Cami sent this day one of his officers to acquaint us, that he hoped, we should have our audience from the Emperor on the 28th of this month, and withal to    [ 527]    command us to preserve our health, and to keep every thing in readiness towards that time.

On the 21st of March, our chief Interpreter went to pay a visit to the Imperial Commissioners, and to desire leave to be carried to court on the day of our audience i1z a Cangos, which was granted to him, after he had first nlade affidavit upon oath, sign'd with his blood, that by reaSon of his sickness he was not able to go otherwise Cotto Tsiosimon, Burgher-master of Nagasaki, set out to day for that place, having had his audience of the counsellors of state on the 1sth of the second Japanese month, and his audience of leave on the 21st.

On the 23d of March, we sent by our second Interpreter Trojemon, a present of a bottle of Aqua vita: to the young I.ord of Firando, who was then at Jedo, as a small token of our grateful remembrance of the kind protection, his father had given us, when we had our factory upon the Island Firando. This day, about an hour before noon) the weather being calm, there was felt of a sudden a violent Earthquake, which shook our house with great noise. It lasted so long, that one could have told fifty This sudden accident convinc'd me of the reasonableness and necessity of that law, whereby it is forbid throughout the Empire to build high houses, and that it is no less requisite to build them as they do in this country, all of slight stuflf and wood, and to lay a strong heavy beam under the roof, by its weight and pressure upon the walls of the house, to keep them together in case of such a shock.

On the 24th of March, being Saturday, the weather awas very cold, with snow and rain, tho' it had been excessive hot just the night before. This day Makino Bingo, Councellor of State and the Emperor's chief favourite, sent a compliment to our Director, and desir'd some Dutch Cheese; we presented him with a whole Cheese of Eidam, and half a saffron Cheese taken from our own provision.

On the 25th of March, we were busy with putting the presents, which were to be made to his Imperial Majesty, and to some of the great men at court, in proper order, in hopes that we should be admitted to an audience on the 28th of this month, being a holiday: we also sent to desire Sino Cami, and the Imperial Commissioners to use their cood endeavours to forward the same. The ministers of state, and other great men at court, some of whom we were only to visit, and to make presents to others, were the five chief Irnperial councellors of state, call'd Goradzi, or the five elderly men, which were, 1.

Makino Bingono Cami. 2. Okubo Canga no Cami 3. Abi Bungono Cami. 4. Toda Jamajiro Cami. 5 Tsutsia Sagami Cami: Four Imperial under or deputy councellors of state, call'd Waka Goridzi, who were, 1. Akimotto Tadsijma Cami. 2. Katta Saddono Cami. 3. Naito Tambano Cami. And 4. Inagi sawa Dewano Cami The Dsisja, as they are call'd, that is, Lords of the Temple, being three. I. Toda no Tono    [ 528]    Cami. 2. lsondakino Cami. And, 3. Ongasawara Saddono Cami. Matzaro Ikono Cami, Lord of Firando, of the family of Fisen. The Imperial Commissioners, as we commonly call them, who are as it were, the Emperor's Attorney generals for the city of Jedo, Todo Ijono Cami, and Obutto Sabboro Saijemon sama: The two Governors of Jedo, Fodso Awana Carni and Nosij Ismono Cami: Last of all that of the Governors of Nagasaki, who is at Jedo, being then Kawagatz Gensaimon, or according to his new title, Kawagatz Tsino Cami, the two others, Jama Okkasiubioje and Mijaki Tono mo, being upon their Government.

On the 26th of March, Tsino Cami sent to acquaint us, that our audience was deferr'd a day longer, to wit, to the 26th of March, because of the death of Makino Bingo his brother, which would not permit that favourite of the Emperor, and first counsellor of state, to appear in publick before that day.

On the 27th of March, after dinner, Firanno Sosats, one of the Emperor's Physicians, an elderly fat man, came to pay me a visit, and to ask my advice about the cure of some distempers.

On the 28th of March, the two Imperial Commissioners and Sino Cami, sent their Secretaries to acquaint us, that tve should have our audience from the Emperor the next morning, that therefore we should repair to court betimes, and stay there in the great Imperial Guard-room, till we could be introduc'd

The 29th of March, being the last of the second Japanese month, is one of the usual court days, on which the Emperor gives audience. And yet we could have hardly flatter'd our selves of so quick a dispatch, had not Makino Bingo purposely appointed it for the day of our audience, in order to get rid of us, because on the fifth of the ensuing third ,Tapanese month, he was to have the honour to treat the Emperor at dinner, a favour, which requires a good deal of time and vast preparations. This Bengo, or Bingo was formerly Tutor to the now reigning Monarch} before he came to the Crown, but is now his chief favorite, and the only person whom he absolutely confides in. At our audience, it is he that hath the honour to receive the Emperor's words and commands from his own mouth, and to address the same to us. He is near seventy years of age, a tall but lean man, with a long face, a manly and german-like countenance, slow in his actions, otherwise very civil in his whole behaviour. He hath the character of a just and prudent man, no ways given to ambition, nor inclin'd to revenge, nor bent upon heaping up immoderate riches, in short, of being altogether worthy of the great confidence and trust the Emperor puts in him. About three years ago, he had the honour to treat the Emperor at dinner, and was then by him presented with a scimeter, esteem'd worth ISOoO Thails, which the Emperor took from his own side, with 3000 Cobangs in gold, 300 Shuits of silver, several damask and fine Chinese silk stuffs, and an addition of 300,000 bags of rice to his yearly revenues,    [ 529]    which were then already of 4ooooo, so that now he hath in all 700000. It is reckon'd an inestimable honour to treat the Emperor, but such a one, as may undo and ruin the person upon whom this particular favour is bestow'd, because, whatever is scarce and uncommon, must be provided, and every thing pay'd at an excessive rate. As an instance of this, it will suffice to mention what Bengo did a few days ago. There being then a ball at court, he sent a Soccano, as the Japanese call it, (being a small treat of a few things laid on a wooden machine, made in form of a table, which the Japanese send to each other in token of friendship) to the Emperor, consisting of two Tah, or Steenbrassems, as we call them, which he bought for 150 Cobangs, and a couple of shell-fish, which cost him 9o Cobangs. A Cobang is worth about five Ducats, so that the whole treat amounted to saoo Ducats, or of about 2400 l. sterling. These two sorts of fish are the scarcest and dearest in Japan, particularly the Steenbrassems) which, when in season, are never sold under two Cobangs a piece, but in winter-time, and for great feasts, any price is given for them. In this case it is not only very profitable to the fishmonger, but the buyer esteems it a peculiar happiness to have met with a scarce and dear dish for such a guest, as he hath an uncommon value for. But there is something peculiar and superstitious hid in the very name of this fish, it being the last syllable of the word Meditah, which the Japanese make use of, when they wish one another Joy.

On the 29th of March therefore, being Thursday, and the day appointed for our audience, the presents design'd f for his Imperial Majesty were sent to court, attended by the Deputies of Sino Cami, and of the Commissioners for inspecting foreign affairs, to be there laid in due order, on wooden tables, in the hall of hundred mats, as they call it, where the Emperor was to view them. We follow'd soon after with a very inconsiderable equipage, clad in black silk cloaks, as garments of ceremony according to the fashion of Europe. We were attended by three Stewards of the Governors of Nagasaki, our Dosen or Deputy Bugjo, two town-messengers of Nagasaki, and an Interpreter's son all walking on foot. We three I)utchmen, and our second Interpreter, rode on horseback, behind each other. Our horses were led by grooms, who took them by the bridle, one groom for each horse, walking at his right side, on which side also it is the fashion of this country to mount, and to alight. Formerly we us'd to have two grooms for each horse, but of late this custom was left off, as putting us only to an unnecessary expence. Our Resident, or Captain, as the Japanese call him, came after us carried in a Norimon, and was followed by our old chief interpreter carried in a Cangos. The procession was clos'd by the rest of our servants and retinue, walking a foot at proper distances, so far as they were permitted to follow us. In this order we mov'd on towards the castle, and after about half an hour's riding, we came to the first enclosure, which we found well fortify'd with walls and ramparts. This we enter'd over a large bridge, with ballisters adorn'd at the upper end with brass    [ 530]    balls, laid over a broad river, which seem'd to run Northwards about the castle, and on which we then saw great numbers of boats and vessels. The entry is thro' two strong gates, with a small guard between them. Assoon as we pass'd thro' the second gate, we came to a large place, where we found another more numerous guard to our right, which however seem'd to be intended more for state than defence. The guard-room was hung about with cloath: Pikes were planted in the ground near the entry, and within it was curiously adorn'd with gilt arms, lacker'd guns, pikes, shields, bows, arrows and quivers. The soldiers sate down on the ground, cross-legg'd, in good order, clad in black silk, each with two Scimiters stuck in their girdle. Having pass'd across this first enclosure, riding between the houses and palaces of the Princes and Lords of the Empire, built within its compass, we came to the second, which we found fortifywd much after the same manner with the first. The bridge only and gates, and inner guard and pallaces were much more stately and magnificent. We left our Norimon and Cangos here, as also our horses and servants, and were conducted across this second enclosure to the Fonmatz, or Imperial Residence, which we enter'd over a long stone-bridge, and having pass'd thro' a double bastion, and as many strong gates, and thence about twenty paces filrther, thro' an irregular street, built, as the situation of the ground would allow it, with walls of an uncommon height on both sides, we came to the Fiakninban, that is guard of hundred men or the great guard of the castle, which was on our left, at the upper end of the abovesaid street, hard by the last door leading to the Emperor's palace. We were commanded to wait in this guard-room, till we could beintroduc'd to an audience, which we were told, should be done, assoon as the great Council of State was met in the Palace We were civilly receiv'd by the two Captains of the Guard, who treated us with tea and tobacco. Soon after Sino Cami and the two Commissioners came to compliment us, along with some Gentlemen of the Emperor's court, who were strangers to us. Having waited about an hour, during which time most of the imperial Counsellors of State, old and young, went into the palace, some walking on foot, others being carried in Norimons; we were conducted thro) two stately gates, over a large square place, to the palace, to which there is an ascent of a few steps leading from the second gate. The place between the second gate, and the front of the palace, is but a few paces broad, and was then excessively crowded with throngs of courtiers, and troops of guards. From thence we were conducted up two other stair-cases to the palace itself, and first into a spacious room, next to the entry on the right, being the place where all persons, that are to be admitted to an audience, either of the Emperor himself, or of the Counsellors of State, wait till they are call'd in. It is a large and lofty room, but when all the skreens are put on, pretty dark, receiving but a sEzaring light from the upper windows of an adjoining room, wherein is kept some furniture for the Imperial apartments. It is otherwise richly furnish'd, according to the    [ 531]    country fashion, and its gilt posts, walls and skreens, are very pleasing to behold. Having waited here upwards of an hour, and the Emperor having in the mean while scated himself in the hall of audience, Sino Cami and the two Commissioners came in and conducted our Resident into the Emperores presence, leaving us behind. As soon as he came thither, they cry'd out aloud Hollanda Captain, which was the signal for him to draw near, and make his obeisances. Accordingly he crawl'd on his hands and knees, to a place shew'd him, between the presents rang'd tl due order on one side, and the place, where the Emperor sat, on the other, and then kneeling, he bow'd his forehead quite down to the ground, and so crawl'd backwards like a crab, without uttering one single word. So mean and short a thing is the audience we have of this mighty Monarch. Nor are there any more ceremonies observZd in the audience he gives, even to the greatest and most powerful Princes of the Empire. For having been call'd into the hall, their names are cried out aloud, then they move on their hands and feet humbly and silently towards the Emperor's seat, and having shew'd their submission by bowing their forehead down to the ground, they creep back agam in the same submissive posture.

The hall of audience, otherwise the hall of hundred tmats, is not in the least like that which hath been describ'd and figur'd by Montanus, in his memorable embassies of the Dutch to the Emperors of Japan. The elevated throne, the steps leading up to it, the carpets pendent from it, the stately columns supporting the building which contains the throne, the columns between which the Princes of the Empire are said to prostrate themselves before the Emperor, and the like, have all no manner of foundation, but in that author's fancy. Every thing indeed is curious and rich, but not otherwise than my draught represents it. (Fig. 121.) For in our second voyage to court, the audience being over, the Governor of Nagasaki was pleas'd to shew us the hall, which gave me an opportunity of taking a draught of it, which in the end was no very difficult matter, considering, that it requir'd nothing but to tell over the number oz mats, posts, skreens, and windows. The floor is cover'd with an hundred mats, all of the same size. Hence it is call'd Sen Sio Siki, that is, the hall of an hundred mats. It opens on one side towards a small court, which lets in the light; on the opposite side it joins to two other apartments, which are on this occasion laid open towards the same court, one of which is considerably larger than the other, and serves for the Counsellors of State, when they give audience by themselves. The other is narrower, deeper, and one step higher than the hall itself. In this the Emperor sits, when he gives audience, cross-legg'd, rais'd only on a few carpets. Nor is it an easy matter to see him, the light reaching not quite so far as the place where he sits, besides, that the audience is too short, and the person admitted to it, in so humble and submissive a posture, that he cannot well have an opportunity to hold up his head, and to view him. This audience is otherwise very awful and majestic, by reason chiefly of the silent presence of all the Counsellors of State, as also of many Princes and    [ 532]    Lords of the Empire, the Gentlemen of his Majesty's Bedchamber, and other chief Officers of his Court, who line the hall of audience and all its avenues, sitting in good order and clad in their garments of ceremony.

Formerly all we had to do at the Emperor's court, was compleated by the captain's paying him the usual homage, after the manner above related. A few days after, some laws concerning our trade and behaviour were read to him, which, in the name of the Dutch, he promis'd to keep, and so was dispatch'd back to Nagasaki. But for about these twenty years last past, he and the rest of the Dutchmen, that came up with the Embassy to Jedo, were conducted deeper into the palace, to give the Empress and the Ladies of her court, and the Princesses of the Blood, the diversion of seeing us. In this second audience, the Emperor, and the ladies invited to it, attend behind skreens and lattices, but the Counsellors of State, and other Officers of the Court, sit in the open rooms, in their usual and elegant order. Assoon as the Captain had paid his homage, the Emperor retir'd into his apartment, and not long after we three Dutchmen were likewise callwd up, and conducted, together with the Captain, thro' several apartments into a gallery curiously carv'd and gilt; where we waited about a quarter of an hour, and were then, through several other walks and galleries, carried further into a large room, where they desir'd us to sit down, and where several courtiers shaved, being the Emperor's Physicians, the officers of his kitchin, and some of the clergy, came to ask after our names, age, and the like; but gilt skreens were quickly drawn before us, to deliver us from their throng and troublesome importunity. We staid here about half an hour, mean while the court met in the Imperial apartments, where we were to have our second audience, and whither we were conducted thro' several dark galleries. Along all these several galleries there was one continued row of lifeguardmen, and nearer to the Imperial apartments follow'd, in the same row, some great officers of the crown, who lin'd the front of the hall of audience, clad in their garments of ceremony, bowing their heads, and sitting on their heels. The hall of audience was just as I represented it in the Figure hereunto annex'd. (Fig. 124.) It consisted of several rooms, looking towards a middle place, some of which were laid open towards the same, others cover'd by skreens and lattices. Some were of IS mats, others of I 8, and they were a mat higher or lower, according to the quality of the persons seated in the same. The middle place had no mats at all, they having been taken away, and was consequently the lowest, on whose floor, cover'd with neat varnish'd boards, we were commanded to sit down. The Emperor and his Imperial Consort sate behind the lattices on our right. As I was dancing, at the Emperor's command, I had an opportunity twice of seeing the Empress thro' the slits of the lattices, and took notice, that she was of a brown and beautiful complexion, with black European eyes, full of fire, and from the proportion of her head, which was pretty large, I judg'd her to be a tall woman, and about 36 years of age. By    [ 533]    Lattices, I mean hangings made of reed, split exceeding thin and fine and cover'd on the back with a fine transparent silk, with openings about a span broad, for the persons behind to look through. For ornament's sake, and the better to hide the persons standing l)ehind, they are painted with divers figures, tho' otherwise it would be impossible to see them at a distance, chief y when the light is taken of behind. The Emperor himself was in such an obscure place, that we should scarce have known him to be present, had not his voice discover'd him, which yet was so low, as if he purposely intended to be there incognito. Just before us, behind other Lattices) were the Princes of the blood, and the Ladies of the Empress her Court. I took notice, that pieces of paper were put between the reeds in some parts of the Lattices) to make the openings wide, in order to a better an(l easier sight. I counted about thirty such papers, which made me conclude, that there was about that number of persons sitting behind. Bengo sate on a rais'd mat in an open room by himself just before us, towards our right on that side, on which I took notice above, that the Emperor sat behind the Lattices. On our left, in another room, were the councellors of state of the first and second rank, sitting in a double row in good and becoming order. The gallery behind us was fill'd with the chief officers of the Emperor's court, and the gentlemen of his bedchamber. The gallery which led into the room, where the Emperor was, was fill'd with the Sons of some Princes of the Empire then at court, the Emperor's pages and some priests lurking. After this manner it was, that they order'd the stave on which we were now to act. The commissioners for foreign affairs having conducted us into the gallery before the hall of audience, one of the councellors of state of the second rank, came to receive us there and to conduct us to the above describ'd middle place, on which we were commanded to sit down, having first made our obeysances after the Japanese manner, creeping and bowing our heads to the ground, towards that part of the Lattices, behind which the Emperor was. The chief Interpreter sat himself a little forward, to hear more distinctly, and we took our places on his left hand all in a row. After the usual obeysances made, Bengo bid us welcome in the Emperor's name. The chief Interpreter receivrd the compliment from Bengo's mouth and repeated it to us. Upon this the Ambassador made his compliment in the name of his Masters, withal returning their most humble thanks to the Emperor, for having graciously granted the Dutch liberty of commerce. This the chief Interpreter repeated in Japanese, having prostrated himself quite to the ground, and speaking loud enough to be heard by the Emperor. The Emperor's answer was again receiv'd by Bengo, who deliver'd it to the chief Interpreter, and he to us. He might have indeed receiv'd them himself from the Emperor's own mouth, and sav'd Bengo this unnecessary trouble: But I fancy that    [ 534]    the words, as they flow out ot the Emperor's mouth, are esteem'd too precious and sacred for an immediate transit into the mouth of persons of a low rank. The mutual compliments being over, the succeeding part of this solemnity turn'd to a perfect farce. We were ask'd a thousand ridiculous and impertinent questions. Thus for instance, they desir'd to know, in the first place, how old each of us was, and what was his name, which we were commanded to write upon a bit of paper, having for these purposes took an European Inkhorn along with us. This paper, together with the inkhorn itself, we were commanded to give to Bingo, who deliver'd them both into the Emperor's hands, reaching them over below the lattice. The Captain, or Ambassador, was ask'd concerning the distance of Holland from Batavia, and of Batavia from Nagasaki? which of the two was the most powerfial, the Director-general of the Dutch East-India Company at Batavia, or the Prince of Holland ? As for my own particular the following questions were put to me: What external and internal distempers I thought the most dangerous, and most difficult to cure? How I proceeded in the cure of cancrous humors and imposthumations of the inner parts? Whether our European Physicians did not search after some Medicine to render people immortal, as the Chinese Physicians had done for many hundred years? Whether we had made any considerable progress in this search, and which was the last remedy conducive to long life, that had been found out in Europe? To which I return'd in answer, That very many European Physicians had long labour'd to find out some Medicine, which should have the virtue of prolonging humane life, and preserving people in health to a great age; and having thereupon been ask'd, which I thought the best ? I answer'd, that I always took that to be the best which was found out last, till experience taught us a better: and being further ask'd, which was the last, I answer'd, a certain Spirituous Liquor, which could keep the humors of our body fluid and comfort the spirits. This general answer prov'd not altogether satisfactory, but I was quickly desir'd to let them know the name of this excellent Medicine, upon which, knowing that whatever was esteem'd by the Japanese, had long and high sounded names, I return'd in answer, it was the Sal volatile Oleosum Sylvii. This name was minuted down behind the lattices, for which purpose, I was commanded to repeat it several times. The next question was, who it was that found it out, and where it was found out? I answer'd Professor Sylvius in Holland. Then they ask'd, whether I could make it up ? Upon this our Resident whisper'd me to say, No, but I answer'd, Yes, I could make it up, but not here. Then 'twas ask'd, whether it could be had at Batavia? and having return'd in answer, that it was to be had there, the Emperor desir'd, that it should be sent over by the next ships. The Emperor, who hitherto sat among the Ladies, almost opposite to us, at a considerable distance, did now draw nearer, and sate himself down on our right behind the lattices, as near us as possibly he could. Then he order'd us to take    [ 535]    off our Cappa, or Cloak, being our Garment of Ceremony, then to stand upright, that he might have a full view of us; again to walk, to stand stih, to compliment each other, to dance, to jump, to play the drunkard, to speak broken Japanese, to read Dutch, to paint, to sing, to put our cloaks on and off. Mean while we obey'd the Emperor's commands in the best manller we could, I join'd to my dance a love-song in High German. In this manner, and with innumerable such other apish tricks, we must sufer ourselves to contribute to the Emperor's and the Court's diversion- The Ambassador, however, is free from these and the like commands, for as he represents the authority of his masters, sorne care is taken, that nothing should be done to injure or prejudice the same. Besides that he shew~d so much gravity in his countenance and whole behaviour as was sufficient to convince the Japanese, that he was not at all a fit person to have such ridiculous and comical commands laid upon him. Having been thus exercis'd for a matter of two hours, though with great apparent civility, some servants shav'd came in, and put before each of us al small table with Japanese victuals, and a couple of Ivory sticks, instead of knives and forks. We took and eat some little things, and our old chief Interpreter tho' scarce able to walk, was commanded to carry away the remainder for himself. We were then order'd to put on our cloaks again, and to take our leave, which we gladly, and without delay complied with, putting thereby an end to this second audience. We were then conducted back by the two Commissioners to the waiting room, where we took our leave of them also.

It was now already three of the clock in the afternoon, and we had still several visits to make to the Counsellors of State, of the first and second rank, as I have set them down above under the 25th of March. Accordingly we left the Fonmar forthwith, saluted as we went by the Officers of tbe great Imperial Guard, and made our round a foot. The presents had been carried before-hand to every one's house by our clerks, and because we did not see them in our audiences, I conjectur'd that they had been actually presented to the persons to whom they belong'd. They consisted in some Chinese, Bengalese, and other Silk Stuffs, some linnen, black serge, some yards of black cloth, gingangs, pelangs, and a flask of tent wine. We were every where receiv'd by the Stewards and Secretaries with extraordinary civility, and treated with tea, tobacco and sweet meats, as handsomly as the little time we had to spare would allow. The rooms, where we were admitted to audience, were fill'd behind the slireens and lattices with crowds of spectators, who would fain have oblig'd us to shew them some of our European customs and ceremonies, but could obtain nothing excepting only a short dance at Bengo's house (who came home himself a back way) and a song from each of us, at the youngest Counsellor's of State, who liv'd in the Northern part of the castle. We then return'd again to our Cangos and horses, and having got out of the castle, thro' the Northern gate, we went back to our Inn another way,    [ 536]    on the left of which we took notice that there were strong walls and ditches in severalplaces. It was just six in the evening, when we got home heartily tired. On Friday the 30th of March, we rode out again betimes in the morning, to make some of our remaining visits. The presents, such as above describ'd, were sent before us by our Japanese clerks, who took care to lay them on boards, and to range them in good order, accord ing to the country fashion. We were receiv'd, at the entry of the house, by one or two of the principal domestics, and conducted to the apartment, where we were to have our audience. The rooms round the hall of audience were every where crowded with spectators. As soon as we had seated our selves, we were treated with tea and tobacco. Then the steward of the houshold came in, or else the secretary, either alone, or with another gentleman to compliment us, and to receive our compliments in his master's name. The rooms were every where so disposed, as to make us turn our faces towards the Ladies, by whom we were very generously and civilly treated with cakes and several sorts of sweatmeats. We visited and made our presents, this day, to the two Governours of Jedo, to the three Ecclesiastical Judges, and to the two Commissioners for foreign Affairs, who liv'd near a mile from each other, one in the S. W. the other in the N. E. part of the castle. They both profess themselves to be particular patrons of the Dutch, and receiv'd us accordingly with great pomp and magnificence. The street was lin'd with twents men arm'd, who with their long staffs, which they heid on one side, made a very good figure, besides that they help'd to keep off the throng of the people from being too troublesome. We were receiv'd upon our entring the house, and introduc'd to audience much after the same manner as we had been in other places, only we were carried deeper into their palaces, and into the innermost apartment, on purpose that we should not be troubled with numbers of foreign spectators, and be at more liberty, our selves as well as the Ladies, who were invited to the ceremony. Opposite to us in the hall of audience, there were grated Lattices, instead of skreens, for the length of two mats and upwards,

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The hall of audience for the Dutch Ambassadors in the inward pa]ace. a. Is the room where Bingosama, President of the Emperor's Council of tour. b. It is the rooms where the ordinary, and extraordinary counsellors of state sit. c. The gallery, where several officers of the Emperor's court sat in a c, the mats than the room b. d. The place, where the Dutch Ambassador and hiis retinue were commanded to sit down. It was lower than the gallery audience having been remov'd and was cover'd with varnish'd boards. e. A side-cor,xrt, pav'd with small stones, which was laid open towards the hall of audience and whither to come in. 1. The skreen, behind which the Emperor and the Empress, and other persons of the Imperial family sat in our second Placed xxxx behind which sat the ladies and other persons of the Imperial court. 3,. Other Skreens, behind which the Emperor and Empress autience yor xxx In the first audience and whither they remov'd sometimes in the second.xxx The usual place of Bingosama. 6. Bingosama, as he sate in our 9. Son of of talking with the Emperor 7. The ordinary or chief counsellors of state. 3. The younger, or extraordinarx counscllors of xxx. x of the Emperor's court lining the gallery which went into the Imperial apartments. 10. The Lords of the Emperor's bed-chamber in xxxxx Lordi of the bed-chamber and persons of a high extraction. 12. Officers of the Imperial court of an inferior rank in one continued row xxxx into the hall of audience. 13. The Dutch Ambassador Cornelius Van Outhoorn. 14. Dr. Kaempfer dancing at the Emperor's command xxx 15. Secretaries of the Embassy. 16. Our Interpreter.

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behind which sat such numbers of women of the Commissioners own family, and their relations and friends, that there was no room left. We had scarce seated our selves, when seven servants well clad came in all in a row, and brought us pipes and tobacco, with the usual Apparatus for smoaking. Soon after they brought in something bak'd, laid on japan'd boards, then some fish fried, all after the same manner, by the same number of servants) and always but one piece in a small dish, then a couple of eggs, one bak'd, the other boil'd and shell'd, and a glass of old strong Sacki standing between t,hem. After this manner we were entertain'd for about an hour and a half, when they desir'd us to sing a song, and to dance, the first we refus'd to comply with, but satisfied them    [ 537]    as to the last. In the house of the first commissioners, a soop made of sweet plums was offer'd us instead of brandy. In the second Commissioner's house we were presented first of all with Mange bread, in a brown liquor, cold, with some mustardseed and radishes laid about the dish, and at last with some orange peels with sugar, which is a dish given only upon extraordinary occasions, in token of fortune and good will. We then drank some tea, and having taken our leave, went back to our Inn, where we arrived at five in the evening.

On the 31st of March, we rode out again at ten in the morning, and went to the houses of the three Governors of Nagasaki, two of whom were then absent and upon their government. We presented them on this occasion only with a flask of tent each, they having already receiv'd their other presents at Nagasaki. We were met by Sino Cami just by the door of his house. He was attended with a numerous retinue, and having call'd both our Interpreters to him, he commanded them to tell us, that his desire was, that we should make ourselves merry in his house: Accordingly we were receiv'd extraordinary well, and desir'd to walk about, and to divert ourselves in his garden, as being now in the house of a friend at Jedo, and not in the palace of our Governor and Magistrate at Nagasaki. We were treated with warrn victuals, and tea, much after the same manner, as we had been by the Commissioners, and all the while civilly entertain'd by his own brother and several persons of quality of his friends and relations. Having staid about two hours, we went to Tonosama's house, where we were conducted into the innermost and chief apartment, and desir'd twice to come nearer the lattices on both sides of the room. There were more ladies behind the skreens here, than I think, we had as yet met with in any other place. They desired us very civilly to shew them our cloaths, the captain's arms, rings, tobaccopipes, and the like, some of which were reach'd them between or under the lattices. The person that treated us in the absent Governor's name, and the other gentlemen who were then present in the room, entertain'd us likewise very civilly, and we could not but take notice, that every thing was so cordial, that we made no manner of scruple of making ourselves merry, and diverting the Company each with a song. The magnificence of this family appear'd illy by Ethe richness and exquisitiness of this entertainment, which was equal to that of the first Commissioners, but far beyond it in courteous civility, and a free open carriage. After an hour and a half we took our leave. Tonosama's house is the furthenriost to the N. or N. W. we were to go to, a mile and half from our Inn, but seated by much in the pleasantest part of the town, where there is an agreeable variety of hills and bushcs. Zubosama's family lives in a small sorry house near the ditch, which encompasses the castle. We met here but a few women behind a skreen, who took up with peeping at us through a few holes, which they made as    [ 538]    they sat down. The strong liquors, which we had been this day obliged to drink in larger quantities than usual, being by this time got pretty much into our heads, we made haste to return home, and took our leave as soon as we had been treated after the usual manner with tea and tobacco. We were the more impatient to be gone, because we were apprehensive, lest our Interpreters, who had been pretty much exercis'd all day, should grow too weary, and unwilling hereafter to attend us so long on the like occasions. The gentleman also, who was to entertain us in the Governor's name, altho' he affected a great civility, had somewhat so froward and disagreeable in his countenance, as forwarded very much our departure: For, we look'd upon ourselves on this occasion, not as merchants sent there to trade, but as Ambassadors to a potent Monarch, who ought to be treated with some regard and honour.

On the first of April, in the afternoon, we were promis'd by Josamma, that the next day we should have our audience of leave.

On the 2d of April, in the morning, we went to court on horseback in the same order, and the same way as on the day of our audience. We staid about an hour and a half in the guard room before the castle, where we receiv'd a visit from the two Commissioners and Sino Cami. We staid much about the same time in the great waiting room of the castle, which is taken in with gilt skreens, and the floor cover'd with six and thirty mats. We were again saluted here by the two Commissioners and Sino Cami, who call'd our old chief Interpreter out, in order to shew him the room, where the Ambassador should be admitted to audience, as also to acquaint him what ceremonies should be observed on that occasion. Soon after the Ambassador was call'd out himself, and was conducted from the waiting room to a great hall to the left, where with the usuaf obeysances he took his audience of leave, and had the commands of the Emperor read to him, consisting in five articles, relating among other things chiefly to the Portuguese trade. This being over, he was by Sino Cami conducted back to the waitingroom, where we staid for him, and where this Governor took his leave of him with great apparent civility, withal telling him, he hop'd he should see him at Nagasaki. And so we went away from Court, without paying our respects to the two Commissioners, and came home about one of the clock in the afternoon. Meanwhile we staid in the waiting room, several officers at Court, and the sons of some Princes of the Empire came to see us. Among the rest was the Prince of Facatta's grandson, who although he was blind of one eye, had nevertheless orders from the Emperor to stay at Court, among other young gentlemen of his quality, for no other reason but to serve as a hostage of his Grandfather's fidelity. Some of these people ask'd after the captain's name, and there was one among the rest, who had already taken it down in writing, but this was so quickly betraynd, that that minute orders were sent by Sino Cami, that our names should    [ 539]    be told no body. Our departure from Court was preceded by 30 gowns laid on three tables, as a present from the Emperor. In the afternoon some of the gentlemen, whom we had visited, and made presents to, sent us also their gowns, to Wit, 1. Noji Jsemono, Governor Of Jedo two black gowns. 2. Todotamasijro, one of the councellors of state, ten gowns. 3. Tsutsia Sagamisama, likewise ten 4. Fodioawanasama, the other Governor of Jedo two. 5. Kaganni K. S. and 6. Bongosama, each ten.

On the 3d of April, we were presented with some more gowns, to wit, with three by each of the two Commissioners, and with six by each of the extraordinary Counsellors of state. All our business at Jedo was compleated this day by one of the clock.

On the 4th of April the Emperor din'd at Bengos, for which reason the gates of the castle were shut, which is a custom the now reigning Monarch observes upon these occasions, many people wondering why.

 

Chap. XIII. Of our Return from Jedo to Nagasaki, and what happen'd there.

On the fifth of April, we set out on our return for Nagasaki, about eight of the clock in the morning. We were near two hours riding thro' Jedo and the suburbs thereof, and then bid farewel to this large and populous town. The country-people we took notice, were then busy with breaking up the rice-fields: They stood in mud and water up to the calf of their legs. At the entry of several villages we found boards with characters upon them, fix'd to high poles of Bambous, signifying, that no body should presume to go to the Inns of that place, because of the instant arrival of one of the Princes of the Empire, whose retinue would fill them all up. Passing by the place of execution near Sinagawa, we found that there was not at that time so shocking a sight as before, of half-corrupted carcasses of executed persons, with numbers of ravenous beasts waiting to devour them.

But we found a human head lying on the ground, about a mile and half before we came to the place we intended to lie at. We also met several sick Isje Pilgrims along the road. We din'd at Cawasaki, and came a little before evening, in dusky and rainy weather, to our inn at Totska. The country about Totska is very fruitful, somewhat hilly and terminates by a long promontory into the sew on the gulf of Jedo.

On the 6th of April we set out about an hour after break of day in wet weather. We met in the morning several of the avantguards    [ 540]

 or forerunners and heavy baggage of the prince of Kijnokuni, bearing the Imperial coat of arms stitch'd in gold. About noon follow'd that prince himself, with a very splendid and numerous retinue marching in the following order. Twenty men with cover'd guns marching behind each other, twenty with large bows and arrows, twenty with long wooden poles, all in the same order, between them march'd some with pikes, and some with varnish'd cases, wherein were kept arms and scimeters. Next follow'd four horses, and on the back of the last was plac'd a black chair adorn'd with two plumes, such as they fix to the top of pikes. The horses, harness and caparison were all black. Before and after these horses rode some gentlemen on horseback, and others walk'd on foot, carrying, some pikes, and three or four banners of black and white feathers: the prince's Norimon follow'd next with twelve footmen walking before it. We held still about twenty paces from his Norimon, and in token of respect alighted from our horses, and took off our hats. As he was carried by a slow pace, we sent our chief Interpreter to compliment him, and he return'd the compliment very civily, bowing his head and wishing us a good journey. He seem'd to be about thirty years of age, brownish, slender-fac'd, of a lean complexion, a grave but agreeable countenance. His Norimon was follow'd by some of his servants and pike-bearers on horseback. Then came the Steward of his houshold and others of the chief officers of his court, with their own pike-bearers, servants and numerous retinues, amounting to no less than a thousand men, all following their Prince and Masters with that silence, order and tranquility, as could not but amaze us in such a multitude of people. The Prince of Kijnokuni is a Prince of the Imperial blood. He hath a son, now at Tedo, who is shortly to be married to the Emperor's daughter, a young Princess of eleven years of age. We came to our Inn about five in the evening, amidst the insulting cries and scoffing of a parcel of roguish boys running after us.

On the 7th of April, we set out again betimes in the morning, and were carried in Cango's to Fakona, where we din'd, and were told, that not far from thence was to be seen the place, where Konginkami was defeated and slain. We left Fakona after dinner, and came to Misijma just before sun-set. Not far from Misijma stands a famous temple on a large spot of ground, pav'd with free stone. Not far from it is a fish-pond. Coming down the mountain from Fakona, we took notice, that the country run W. S. W. towards the Sea, which was about twelve miles distant. Not far from Misijma we were met, and indeed not a little importun'd by troops of Jammabo's sons and daughters, who accosted us begging, some with a good deal of assurance, others with a little more shame and modesty.

On the 8th of April, we left Misijma three hours before break of day. The reason of our setting out so early was, that we should not meet the Prince of Owari, who was married to the Emperor's sister, and who    [ 541]

was then at Numidzu, a place but an hour and a half distant from A Missima. However we met several troops of that Princews retinue, some a foot, others on horseback, and some also, as for instance his Stewards and Chancellors, in Norimons, travelling in great order and tranquility, by the light of flambeaux and lanthorns, which were lighted in houses, or hang up at the tops of them. Some of these Stewards, or Chancellors, I just now had occasion to mention, attend their Princes, rather as Spies than in any other capacity. For this purpose they are taken out from among the Emperor's own and most faithful Domesticks, and their business is to have a watchful eye Over the actions and whole conduct of the Prince to whom they are sent, and to give notice to the court of Jedo of every thing that happens at their court. Having left our Inn, we soon came to the bridge Numidsu, which was not far from it. We then enter'd the suburbs of this place, consisting of about a thousand houses, and soon after the place itself, where we did not find the Monks and Beggars asleep, tho ‘twas early in the morning, for they importun'd us very much, singing and rattling, as we went by. We took notice that some of the Isje Pilgrims lay in the open fields. From Numidsu we went West by North for about a mile, passing thro' several villages, where the country-people's children apply'd for our charity, Jumping and rolling over one another, and shewing many other strange tricks and gambols, till we came to a bridge about an hundred paces long, which led us farther off from the sea on our right. We then came to a large fine village, and passing thro' several fruitful rice-fields, which begun on our right at the foot of the neighbouring mountains, and on our left run off towards the sea, we came to Jostesiwara. Thence we proceeded S. W. then W. as far as Fisikama, where we enter'd upon a new road made at the expence of the Prince of that country. From thence we rode on still further Westward, but soon took Cangos, in order to be carried over the mountains to Akambara, thence to the village Katta Jamma, thence to Okitz, thro' a heavy and uneven road. At Okitz we again mounted on horseback, and so proceeded to Jeseri, where we arriv'd at five in the evening, and staid that night, tho' not at the same Inn we had been at in coming up. There are some gold and silver mines in the mountains call'd Kono, in the neighbourhood of Jeseri, but they are at present not work'd.

On the ninth of April, having left our Inn we travell'd through a fine, pleasant and fruitful country, seated between mountains, for about half a mile, when we got into a narrower and more sinuous road, which brought us to Syringa, where the mountains end in a plain, which extends it self so far, that our eyes could not reach the end of it. From Syringa we came to the river Abikava, then to Mariko, where we were surrounded by a troop of importunate beggars of both sexes. Not far from hence, there was a wooden cottage belonging to a monk, wherein he kept, and shew'd    [ 542]

the superstitious, a large Cilt Idol of the Goddess Quannon with twelve arms, I two of which, standing before the breast, held each a i child, two others she held up over her head, and the rest stood out from the back. Seven smaller Idols adorn'd her head, like a crown or garland, whereby is denoted that she was the happy mother of many a deified Hero. Nay, the Japanese look upon this Idol, as an emblematical representation of the birth of the Gods in general. From hence we came to the village Utznoja, the road being all along winding and crooked, thence to the village, or rather town of Okabe, where we dined. After dinner, we continu'd our journey on horseback, and soon enter'd the dominions of Ota Tsino Cami, Governor of Osacca, and passing by his castle, we came to Fusi Jeda, a town of about six hundred houses, thence to Simada, through a mountainous, and in some places pretty dangerous road, thence to the rapid river Ojingava, which we found to be about a quarter of a mile broad, and were forded through. There is a particular office to take care, that people be forded through this river, which is so rapid, that there is no passing it in boats. More or less men are appointed for every person according to the height of the water, and the rapidity of the stream. Every one of us had three men to attend him in his passage, and we had each an oil'd paper given us, sign'd at the bottom by the clerks of this office, by whom they are sold for a settled price, which is from 20 to 100 Casies each, according to the danger and difficulty of the passage, and the necessary number of men. They afterwards buy them up again for a small matter, of those who ford people through, and who must produce them upon demand, as serving in the nature of certificates, to shew that their pasSengers are got safe over; for according to the laws of the country, they are answerable for their passengers lifes, insomuch, that if any should have the misfortune to be drown'd, all those who had the care of him, would be executed infallibly. Having got safe over this river, and return'd the papers abovernentionedy we pass'd over some bridges, and then came to the town of Kana3a, where we arriv'd in the evening, and staid that night.

On the tenth of April, we took Cangos, and were carried through the town of Kanajaz which I found to consist of about 200 houses, to the town of Misisaka, otherwise Nitssaka, thence to the large village Faranga, passing through several reed fields. This place is accordingly one of the most famous in the Empire, for the best manufactures of mats and shoes of reeds. Then we came to a small town, where we were ferried over a river in boats, and then carried further in Cangos as far as Fammamatz, where we arriv'd a little before evening and staid that night. On this side Missisaka, we were accosted for our charity, by a young fellow who went stark naked, having only a little straw tied about his waste, and a pike in his right hand. His cottage was pasted over with Images of Saints and Heroes. We were also very much    [ 543]

importun'd by young wenches begging, who are very troublesome upon the roads hereabouts. In the middle of a field we found a Monk dying. The poor man lay on his face, throughly soak'd with water, it having rain'd pretty hard, but gave as yet some signs of life, and doubtless might have been reliev'd. Such a miserable object, one would think, should have mov'd the hardest stones to pity, but it had no manner of effect on the merciless Japanese. At Fammamatz we were very confidently told of a strange accident, which happen'd to an Isje Pilgrim, who then lay at a Monk's house at that place. He had obtained leave of the Prince, in whose service he was, to go thither in pilgrimage, but being not an over scrupulous observer of that purity and abstinence requisite to perform this holy act, he very impudently had to do with a whore in his journey thither, which so incens'd the Gods, that in punishment for their wickedness, the lewd couple could not by any force, or art, disengage themselves from their sinful embraces. They would make us farther believe, that they had lain in that condition then already a fortnight, and had been view'd by their relations and thousands of other spectators. The Japanese superstitiously believe, that the like accidents happen frequently and almost every year. The country on this side the mountains was very fruitful, abounding in corn and rice as did likewise the lower hills, many of which were cultivated up to their tops. We took notice, that at all the post villages seven poles, or high posts, were put up, with small square wooden tables fix'd to them, whereupon was written, what Princes were to come next to that place in their journies to or from court, and what day they were expected.

On the 11th of April we set out from Fammamatz in Cangos. It had rain'd very hard all night, and continu'd raining still. Fammamatz is a town of about 1200 houses. It hath a stately temple and castle, where the Prince resides: It hath also a suburb, and gates and guards at the entry. The country about it is very fruitful. On the left are nothing but rice-fields down to the sea, which lies about a mile off. To the right, at some distance, are seen some hills. From our Inn at Fammamatz, the road was straight and even for about three quarters of a mile, when we turn'd off towards our left, and after half a mile's riding, likewise in an even and very good road, we came between a pleasant wood to our right, and the sea on the left, to the large village Waggabasi, or rather Wackabejasi, or Wakabaesi. Half a mile further we enter'd another large village call'd Sijnowara, at the entry whereof was put up a pillar, to shew the way to the neighbouring places and their distances. The Country about this village, particularly to the left, is somewhat stony. Not far from it to the right begins a large gulf, which washes the foot of some high and steep mountains encompassing the same. Half a mile further we came to Majasacka and proceeding on the same road, for another half mile, we left our Cangos, and were in the Imperial guard-boat ferried over the gulf to Array, whence we continued our    [ 544]    journey to the village Fasijno, then thro' two smaller villages to Sijrassika, a place of about 500 houses. Hence we rode up towards the mountain Fuzi and then turning off again, we came to Bambat, or Saringabamba, thence thro' a wood to Fitangawa, a place of about 200 houses, seated at the foot of a pleasant woody hill. We eat a sorry dinner there, and then continuing our journey, we came to the town of Jostzida, or Josida, which encompasses the castle with regular streets. To the left of this place I took notice of a mountainous Island, which I took to be about three miles broad. Otherwise the country all about Josida is flat and even, some wood appearing to the right. From Josida we came to Kosakki, or Kosarei, thence thro' a wood to Sakaramatz, where we saw a castle belonging to the Prince of Owari, who is also Lord of the Island abovemention'd. We then came to a bridge fourscore paces long, which brought us to Koo, or Goy, a place remarkable for a good number of publick Stews, there being scarce an Innkeeper there but what carries on this trade. In the evening we came to Akasaka, where we lay that night. The houses at Akasaka are by much the largest we met with in our journey to Jedo, not excepting even that capital itself. The Inns might as well be call'd publick Stews as those at Goy.

On the 12th of April we set out from Akasaka, which we found to consist of about 200 houses, and soon came to the large village Kosoi, of 150 houses. Fine knit purses are sold at Kosoi. To the left of this place there is a famous temple, where they say, that Taicosama, the first absolute Secular Monarch of Japan, made his studies. Thus much is true, that this great Emperor, who was of a very mean extraction, serv'd a countryman in this very village, who employ'd him for cutting and carrying of wood, but soon growing weary of so low and troublesome a service, he did, as some say, run away from his Master, but according to others was by him honourably discharg'd, and recommended to the service of a neighbouring Gentleman. 'Tis therefore only to hide the meanness of these first scenes of his life, that they say, he was educated at this place, and instructed in all the arts and sciences becoming a man of quality. From thence we came to the village Samanka, thence passing thro' the town of Fijdzka, or Fusikava, of about 250 houses, thence to the village Ssonda, or Seoda, thence to a bridge 140 paces long, thence thro' the village Sinusku, to the town of Okasaki, where we din'd at a very fine Inn in the suburbs, tho' 'twas not yet dinner-time. The reason of our dining so soon was, because we heard, that one of the Emperor's Counsellors of State, who was upon his return from Miaco to Jedo, intended to dine at Tsijriu, the place we usually went to. But just as we were at dinner at Okasaki, his cook and some of his retinue came to that very Inn, in order to dress a dinner for their master. This made us hasten our departure from thence; accordingly we set out forthwith, and having cross'd the largest river, we had as yet met with, riding over a bridge 428 paces    [ 545]

 long, we came to the village Jasagi. This village is seated at the entry of a plain, which runs on for about three miles, and is terminated by a ridge of mountains, which run up into the country to the right, but turn'd off on the left towards the sea. In this very plain we were met by Abino Bongo Sama, first Counsellor of State. His advanc'd guards did not exceed an hundred men, and his retinue might amount to six hundred. Some few Pike-bearers and others, carrying several sorts of arms, walk'd before his Norimon, as did also eleven men clad in black. He sate in- his Norimon. We alighted from our horses out of respect, and sent our Interpreter to compliment him, for which he return'd us thanks, bowing his head very civilly, and as he had not time to let his Norimon stand still, he sent one of his retinue, a strong lusty man, about forty years of age, after us, to return the compliment. Some few more, with pikes and arms, walk'd irnmediately after his Norimon, and were follow'd by two led-horses and some more Norimons, with competent numbers of Pike-bearers and arm-bearers walking before and after. The procession was clos'd by twelve men on horseback attending so many Norimons. We then pass'd by a high mountain, which we found as yet cover'd with snow, and soon after came to Ksojamma, a place of about 200 or 250 houses, thence to the village of Ofammatsjei, where we stopt a little to rest and feed our horses, then passing over a large woody plain, we came to Tsiriu, a place of about IS0 houses. There is a large house at this place to lodge the Princes of the Empire, when they go to, or come from court. From Tsiriu we came to Imauuka, otherwise Imogava, a village of about 100 houses, many of which are Sacki houses. Thence passing thro' two villages, by as many hills and thro' some woods, we came to the small town of Arimatsi, which hath not above 50 houses. Thence travelling thro' a very good country, we came to Narumi, thence over a plain and a bridge, leaving another large village on our left, to the village Kassadira, and a temple of Kiomidz, where they celebrated a festival, and were worshipping the Idol Quanosama. They say, that there is such another temple at Nagasaki. From thence we came to the village Tobe or Tammasakki, which some call Kassadira, a place of about an hundred houses, thence passing over a bridge 45 paces long, we entered soon after the subllrbs and town of Mia, and arriv'd at our Inn before 'twas dark. At Mia we met some of the advanc'd guard of the Prince of Sussima, and that Prince was expected himself the next day, by land from Quano, in his journeg to court. Riding thro' Mia, we pass'd by a Mijah, or Sintos Ternple, which stood not far from the coasts on a rising ground. It had two gates leading to it, and had been built but four years ago at the expence of the Lord of that Province. Five Sintos Priests sat before the temple behind each other, wearing such caps, as are wore at the court of the Ecclesiastical Hereditary Emperor. Two others came begging to our Inn at night, one with rings in his hands, such as the Jammabos wear, the other with a bundle of paper. This temple is call'd Atzta, which signifies the temple    [ 546]    of Three Swords, which were brought thither from Isje, and are held in singular veneration as holy relicks. There is another temple at the same place call'd Fakkin, that is, the temple of Eight Swords, because some Priests of the same order have so many swords in their custody, which, they say, belong'd to some of the greatest and most antient Heroes of the country.

On the 13th of April, we took boat at Mia by break of day, and with a small land breeze sail'd over the gulf to Quano, or Kwano, where we arriv'd about ten in the morning. We din'd there, and set out again about eleven. That part of the town we pass'd thro' first, had a strang well fortify'd gate, with two guardhouses, walls aad ditches, as had also the castle. The middle part of the town was likewise well enough fortify'd according to the country fashion. The third and last part was enclosad with walls and ditches, but the gates of this were but sorry structures. However, a good guard was mounted there. Having left this large and populous place, we enter'd upon a well cultivated plain, which is bound to the right by a ridge of high mountains, at four or five miles distance, with some low hills between them, to the left by the sea, which however was at least half a mile off the road. We pass'd thro' several large villages, one of which is famous for the extraordinary skill of the Inhabitants in dressing of oysters, and other shell-fish; we staid there a little while, and then came to the village Fonda, then to the village Fatz, or Fas, then to Jokaitz, a large borough, then to the village Naga, having the sea still on our left a good mile off, then to Ojiwatsi another village, and thence thro' many fruitful well cultivated fields, where we found the country-people very busy about manuring, which is done with human excrement, to the village Jakutz, or Isijakutz, where we staid that night, and were by our landlord extraordinary well accommodated.

 On the 14th of April, we set out from Jakutz by sunrise, in dark, cold and windy weather. Jakutz, is an open village, without gates, of about 150 houses. At the end of the village stands a temple, where, as we went by, the Monks were performing divine service, according to their manner, some of them ringing bells. Having left the vtllage, we enter'd upon a large open plain, and travelling along a very good road, planted with trees on both sides, we came to a large river, over which was laid a paultry miserable bridge, which brought us to a small but pleasant village, Kummi Gwara. Thence proceeding on a very good road, we came to the long village Odamura, where we were met by the Prince of Nagatto, with a retinue of 300 Men, and ao led-horses. He had but eight footmen running before his Norimon. We pursu'd our journey without alighting from our horses, as we had done out of respect to some other Princes of the Empire, and soon after came to the small village Kawai, where we met another travelling retinue, compos'd of upwards of 50 men, thence to the village Wada, or Wanda, thence thro' two woods to the town of Kamma Jamma. Kamma Jamma is a large and    [ 547]    beautiful town built on two rising hills, with a small valley running between them. The castle stood to the right, its walls and ditches being contiguous to the streets of the town. The streets are very irregular, by reason of the uneven ground on which they are built. The town is enclos'd with strong gates and walls. It seem'd to consist of about 2000 houses, the buildings of the two suburbs not computed. Thence after a mile's riding in an even and very good road, we came to the village Sekidsjo, where we found the Inhabitants very busy with cutting of torches out of Bambous, putting the same up in their shops, and offering them to sale to travellers, not without some importunity. This place hath by much the best and handsomest Inns of any, we had as yet been at, and reckons about 600 houses. We staid here a little while, and then passing through an uneven mountainous road, we came to the village Fusikaki, or Kudsukaka, the houses whereof lay dispers'd up and down the road, and it took us up near half an hour, before we got clear of them. Half an hour further we came to the village Sakkanosta, which lies in the ascent of the mountains. We din'd there, and after about an hour's stay we proceeded on our journey in Cangos, first through this village, thence up the mountain, following a winding uneven road. Going up the mountain we came to a small temple, wherein stood some gilt lions, each with a horn before his breast, which was bent backwards. A little way further up, stood another temple. About half an hour after we set out from Sakkanosta, we came to the village Sawa, then along a brook to Jamma Naka, then to Inofanno, then to Kanni Sasakka three several villages, thence over a plain, seated between mountains, which in some few places rose into Iow hills to the village Tsutsi Jamma, where we arriv'd two hours before sun-set, and staid that night.

On the 15th of April, travelling between mountains and hills, and through woods, we came to the village Mejno, or Meijenu, then riding over a plain we pass'd through two other villages Ono and Imasikf, and not long after passing through some more villages, and riding aloncr some hills and woods, where several Kobasi, or Lilly-trees, and Tsungi a sort of a tree not unlike box, grew in great plenty, we came to the town of Minakuts. The finest hats, mats, and other things made of reed, are manufactur'd at Minakuts. The castle, which lies towards one end of the town, is but an indifferent building, having neither walls nor ditches. Leaving this place we enter'd upon a broad fine road, to the left of which appear'd in view, another ridge of steep and high mountains, and to the right we saw the lake of Oitz, lying at a distance beyond the village Itzummi or Jedzumi, through which we pass'd. Soon after we got in sight of the snow and scorpion mountains, (of which above) one of which we had on our left, the other on our right. We next pass'd through the village Tangawaa, then through the lonC village Nassumi, or as others call it, Natzummi and Natzume, near which stood a sort of a shop, for it deserv'd not to be    [ 548]    call'd a temple, with a wooden Idol within it, which had a small beard but no arms. There stood also a Priest in the shop and two beggars were without, neatly clad in their garments of ceremony, with scimeters stuck in their girdles. We then came to the village Farri, thence to Koosibukuro, where we saw such another small temple as above, only there was but one man clad in his garment of ceremony stood begging without, and within were two Idols, both black, the Iargest with curl'd hairs, and both arms stretch'd out, pointing with the fore finger of the right hand towards his breast, and holding somewhat in the left. From thence the road was very good to Issibe, where we din'd. Immediately after dinner, we set out again from Issibe, and travelling round a mollntain, in order to get upon the great road, we came to the great village Takano, or Takanomura, famous for a medicinal powder, which is sold there. The inventor of this powder liv'd in the small village Menoke, not far from hence, which we also pass'd through. The powders are bitter and very disagreeable to the taste. They were wrapt up each dose in a paper, with the manner of taking it, and its virtues writ upon it. Opposite to the powder shop stood a temple, with the Idol of Fanna, one of the chief Saints of the Japanese, sitting on a Tarate flower, his head cover'd with one half of a bivalve shell, and surrounded with a circle or glory of gold, he held a scepter in his right, and something unknown in his left. Those that went to worship, approach'd the temple bareheaded, and in a very humble posture, and having rung a flat bell which hung on the out-side of it, by striking it wlth a hammer at different times, they said their prayers holding both their hands over their heads. In the neighbourhood of this village we took notice, that the high mountains gradually decreas'd into lower hills. Thence proceeding further on our journey we came to Nagasi, thence to Migawa, thence to Sinjesi, three several villages, thence through another village to the town, or large borough Kusatzu, where the Rottang canes are made of the roots of a particular kind of Bambous. From hence we came to the small village Noosi, where we had the lake of Oitz on our right, and the mountain Jeso on our left. We then pass'd through several turnip fields, then through three small villages, or rather hamlets, then through Sietta a long village, thence further through the large village Zetta, where there is a small temple built on the shore, for several superstitious purposes. Next to this village we pass'd over the largest bridge we had met with in Japan, at the other end whereof there was a small village, which is by some call'd Zettanofasi, and by others Farinkawa. Thence we came to the town of Dsiedsi, the residence of Ondajjasama, who, we were told, had been oblig'd to stay at Jedo for several years last past. It is a neat and beautiful town, as is also the castle. Strong gates lead to the suburbs. Thence passing through the Suburbs of Ootz we came to our Inn in that town, where we design'd to lie. A good    [ 549]    quantity Of Rottang roots was brought hither from Kusatzu, and exposed to sale. The lord of the Province, wherein this particular kind of Bambous grows, is frequently necessi tated to prohibit the digging of the root for some time least the growth of the plant should be too much prejudiced thereby, the roots Iying very deep, and being not to be dug up without the loss of the plant. This is the reason, why they are then sold so dear. That sort which grows about Kusatzu, is call'd Fatziku. The same kind of Bambous grows likewise about Nagasaki, but the root there seldom exceeds the length of a span, or arm. As sorry as this place seem'd to be, when we enter'd it at night, as well did it look the day after, when all the shops, which were very numerous, and extraordinary well furnish'd, were open'd.

On the 16th of April, being Sunday, we set out from Ootz, and came to the borough of Odani, then to the village Ootzsakka, then to Ojewazi, or Ojwake, another village almost contiguous to the former. Thence riding over a fine green meadow, seated between hills, we enter"i the territory of Miako, and soon came to the villages of Jammasta and Jakadai, which we found contiguous to each other. We dined at the latter, and soon after dinner proceeding on our journey we came to the village Jamasiva. Then passing through another smaller village, and riding over a hill we enter'd the village Keangi, which is, as were, the beginning of the suburbs of Miaco, and soon after we came to Awatagatsi, or Awatagus, which lies still nearer that capital. Thence riding on through the suburbs we pass'd over three rivers, the first of which was 1500 paces distant from the second, but this not above an hundred from the third, and then we enter'd this mighty capital, riding between numbers of regular streets, which turn'd off to our right and left, as far as our eyes could reach. As we enter'd the city, we could not but take notice of the beautiful tower, which graces the castle on the West side, which presented itself, to our view in a very agreeable manner. About nine of the clock that night we came to our Inn.

On the 17th of April, we bought some of the manufactures and curiosities made at this place. The same day we went with the usual ceremonies to fetch the list of the presents from the lord chief justice at Miaco, who receives the best after the Emperor, as also from the two Governors of this place.

On the 18th, after dinner, we set out from Miaco in Norimons and Cangos. And first of all we were carried back one street, the same way we came the day before, and then over a bridge, towards the mountains, to our right. The streets were all along regular, neat and pleasant, lin'd with small but good houses and well furnish'd shops on both sides. We were set down in the court of the stately Imperial Temple Tsuganin, or Tschuganin. It is a custom of long standing, upon our return from court, and on the last day of our departure from Miaco,    [ 550]    to grant us the liberty of seeing the splendor and magnificence of the temples of this city, as being the largest, pleasantest and most stately religious buildings in the Empire, most curiously seated in the declivity of the mountains, which encompass this capital. Nay by degrees this custom turn'd almost to a law: and as things now stand, it can scarce be said that we have the liberty of seeing them, since we are carried thither, and must see them, almost whether we will or no, without any regard had to the inclination or pleasure of the Ambassador and Director of our Trade. A broad and spacious walk leads to this Temple, which runs along the foot of the mountain for upwards of 1000 paces, all upon a level. The gate was laree and stately with a double bended roof, like the roofs of temples and castle-towers of this country. Here we alighted from our Norimons, out of respect for the Emperor, as must also the Princes of the Empires themselves. This walk which was pav'd with gravel and sand, was lin'd on both sides with the high and stately houses of the officers of the Temple. Going up from the end of this walk, we came upon a large terrass finely gravell'd, and planted with trees and shrubs. Then passing by two stately buildings of wood, we walk'd up a neat and beautiful staircase, and so enter'd another magnificent building, which was likewise of woody lofty, higher, than the finest palaces and temples commonly are and in the front much statelier and handsomer than the very palace of the Emperor at Jedo. The gallery was curiously varnish'd, and the several rooms cover'd with fine mats instead of carpets. In the middle of the first and outermost hall, or large room, was a chappel, or small temple, wherein stood a large idol with curl'd hairs, surrounded with some smaller idols and other ornaments. Some more chappels stood on both sides, which yet were smaller and not so curiously adorn'd. We were thence carried into two particular apartments, built for the Emperor to sit in, they were rais'd two mats higher (as the way of speaking is in this country) than the antichamber, or rather the hall abovemention'd, and had the sight of these chappels through two doors. Next to these several apartments, at the foot of the mountain, (which of itself was exceeding pleasant for the variety of trees and bushes, and in the ascent of which were hid many srnaller temples ) was a small pleasure garden, as it were in miniature, curlously laid out after the Japanese manner, and with as much regularity as the narrowness of the place would admit. The walks were finely and neatly gravell'd with a whitish sand. Many scarce uncommon plants and trees, brought by art to a great degree of perfection, and curiously twisted, with some uncommon stones adorn'd the beds. But what was most pleasing the eyes, was a row of small hills artfillly made in imitation of nature, with the most beautiful plants and flowers growing thereon, and a shallow brook running across with an agreeable murmuring noise, over which were laid four small stone bridges for ornament, as well as for an easier communication with all parts of the garden. Having    [ 551]    got to the end of this garden, which indeed was a sight pleasing beyond expression, we went out through a back door on our left, to a neighbouring small temple seated somewhat higher on the mountain about thirty paces off. In this temple are kept the names of the deceased Emperors written on a table in golden Characters; several low stools were set round this table, with three large and one small written papers laid upon each, being forms of prayers to be said for the soul of Genjosin. Near the entry of the temple stood some chests, with vrated covers for people to throw Putjes in, and before the chests was a pulpit. Two young monks well bred, who had shewn us what was remarkable hitherto, conducted us from thence, over a large and separate square, to another stately Temple, which stood on thick strong pillars, one fathom and a half high. The magnificence of this temple, as it presented itself to the eye on the outside, consisted chiefly in the beauty of its bended roofs, which were four in number, bent over each other, the lowermost whereof, and also the largest, jetted out on all sides to cover the walk, or gallery, which went round the temple on the outside. The posts, and beams, and cornishes supporting the several roofs, were painted, by way of ornament, some red, some yellow. The floor within was cover'd with mats, the temple otherwise was empty up to the roof. It was supported by five times six pillars, or posts. On the right side of the middle temple was a large empty space, or room, and another on the left side. In the latter stood several Idols lock'd up in black lacker'd boxes, or cabinets. A curtain was drawn before the chief of these Tdols, and a round lookingglass stood before the curtain, with another alms-box, with grated covers, to receive people's charity. Having survey'd also this Temple, we were by our leaders conducted to another building, less magnificent indeed, as to the outward appearance, but no ways inferior in neatness and curious ornaments within, the middle room being likewise a sort of a temple, or chappel, sacred to devotion, and full of Idols and Images of their Gods. We were treated here by six young monks of the monastery, the eldest of whom I took to be about six and twenty years of age, and the youngest not above sixteen. They treated us with Sakki, mushrooms, roasted beans, cakes, Atsiaer fruits, roots and plants. After an hour and half we took our leave, and were by two of the monks conducted back to the large place, or walk, before this stately Imperial Monastery, which is said to have twenty seven temples within its compass. Thence we went to another temple, call'd Gibon, or flower temple, some thousands of paces distant from this. Some of us were carried thither in Norimons, others chose to walk it, the way being exceedingly pleasant, across an agreeable wilderness. This Gibon temple was surrounded with thirty or forty smaller temples or chappels, all regularly dispos'd. There were shops in several parts of the temple courts, and places for people to exercise themselves with shooting of arrows. The court was planted with pleasant trees at due distances, and it look'd    [ 552]    as if the whole had been purposely calculated for the diversion of young people. The temple itself was a long narrow building. In the middle room, which was separated from the rest by a gallery, stood a large Idol surrounded with many smaller ones, and divers other ornaments. Among the rest a large japan'd Image of a young woman stood there. It was from two to three fathoms long, with many other Idols and Images of Devils, and young heroes and other figures round it. A Dutch ship, some scirniters and swords, and other bawbles, were put up in the same place. From this temple we were conducted half a mile further, through a street call'd Ziwonjasakki, or Sijwonjasakki,which signifies the street of beggars and bawds, to the famous temple Kiomids. The first thing, which occurs remarkable in going to see this temple, is a high steeple, or tower seven stories high, the lowermost of which was rais'd but a few steps above the ground, being a chappel, or small temple, wherein stood one largeX and some small Idols. A little way further up the mountain stands the Kiomids temple itself, leaning on one side against the mountain, but supported on the other by pillars, some of which are eight Ikins and a half high. We met here a great crowd of people. In the temple, which was enclosed with grates, was nothing but a large round looking-glass, two alms-boxes, and some Gumgums, which those, who threw in some charity-money, rung by the help of a rope. Not far from the temple is a stone stair-case of 85 steps, leading down to a famous spring, which springs out of the rock in three different places and is said to make those that drink it, prudent and wise. It is call'd Otewantakki. It is a limpid clear water, and as far as I could perceive differs nothing from other springs at Miaco. From this spring we went further along the mountain over an artificial terras-walk, and having pass'd by several small temples, or chappels, we came to another large temple much of the same structure with that above, and supported in the same manner by the rock on one side, and high pillars on the other. The view from this temple was curious and fine beyond expression, the situation being very high. I took notice, that the chief Idols within were sitting and grasping their hands together. A view of this Kiomids temple is to be seen in Fig. 128. From hence we were conducted to the large temple Daibods, which was not far from the road to Fussimi. However, before we went to view that temple, we call'd at a neighbouring blind Inn, or rather bawdyhouse, where we were treated by our landlord, who in return for his compliment was by us presented with a Cobang, being four times as much as the entertainment, mean as it was, might have cost him. The Daibods temple is built on an eminence not far from the road (Fig. 130.) The temple court was inclos'd with a hiPh wall, built of free stones, extraordinary large, particularly those in the front, which were near two fathoms square. On the inside of the wall was a spacious walk, or gallery, laid open towards the court, but cover'd with a roof, which was supported    [ 553]    by two rows of pillars, about three fathoms high, and two fathoms distant from each other. I counted about fifty of these pillars on each side of the gate. The gate was a structure by itself, not very large indeed, but adorn'd with pillars, and for ornament's sake cover'd with a double bended roof. On each side of the entry stood the statue of a heroe, in black, almost naked, only with a loose piece of drapery about him, with the face of a lion, near four fathoms high, otherwise well enough proportion'd and rais'd on a pedestal one fathom high. Each of these statues had its particular meaning. The Daibods temple itself stood opposite to this gate in the middle of the court. It is by much the loftiest building we had as yet seen in Japan, and cover'd with a double bended stately roof, the top whereof rises aloft above all other buildings at Miaco. The temple was supported by eight times twelve pillars, or rather, there being two wanting in the middle, by 94. The doors were many and small, but run up as far as the first roof. The temple within was laid open quite under the second roof, which was supported by variety of beams and posts, variously disposed, and by way of ornament painted red. It was so dark, by reason of its unusual height, and the little light that came in, that we could scarce see it. The floor was contrary to custom pav'd with square marble stones; nor was there any other ornament to be seen within besides otle Iarge Idol. The pillars were excessive large, and at least a fathom and a half thick, several small posts being put together to form one great pillar. They were painted red, as was also all the carpenter's work in the temple. The Idol was gilt all over, and incredibly large, in so much that three mats could conveniently lie on the palm of the hand. It had long ears, curl'd hairs, a crown on the head, which appear'd through the window over the first roof, a large spot, not gilt, on the forehead. The shoulders were naked, the breast and body cover'd with a loose piece of cloth. It held the right hand up, and shew'd the palm of the left which rested on the belly. It was sitting after the Indian manner, cross legg'd, on a Tarate flower, which was supported by another flower, the leaves whereof stood upwards by way of ornament, both being raised about two fathoms above the floor. Against the back of this large Idol was an oval of branched work and imagery, gilt and adorn'd with several smaller Idols in human shapes sitting on Tarate flowers. This oval, which was flat, was so large that it cover'd four pillars. The Idol itself was so broad, that it reach'd with the shoulders from one pillar to another, though they were full five fathoms distant. The Tarate flower, on which the Idol was sitting, was enclosed with an eightangular gate, and 'twas in this ver,v place two pillars had been left out. Having sufficiently view'd this temple we went out through another gate, which had but one roof, into a court on one side, where we were shew'd a Gum Gum of an uncommon size, hung up by itself in a small house, or hut of wood. It was full a span thick, almost as deep as the    [ 554]    pike of a Benjos, and had one and twenty foot in circumference. From hence we went further to another temple, which was a very long structure in proportion to its breadth. In the middle of this temple sate a large Idol, which had forty six arms (Fig. 129); sixteen heroes in black, and bigger than the life, stood round it. A little further, on each side, were two rows of gilt Idols, much of the same shape, standing, with about twenty arms each. The furthermost of these Idols, which stood nearest to the larger, had thin long shepher'ds staffs in their hands, and the rest, some garlands of roses, others other instruments or ornaments. Over the head, which was crown'd with a circle of golden rays, were placed seven other Idols, the middlemost of which was also the smallest, but all had their breasts hung and adorn'd with divers ornaments. Besides these there were ten or twelve rows of other Idols, as big as the life, standing as close together as possibly they could, and behind one another in such a manner, that the foremost were always plac'd a little lower, for those behind to appear. They say that the number of Idols in this temple amounts in all to 33333, whence it is call'd San man San Ssin Sanbiak, Sansiu, Santai, that is the temple of 33333 Idols. (Fig 131.) Having view'd also this temple, we stept again into our Norimons and Cangos, and were carried along the same road as far as Fusimi, being about three hours distant. About three quarters of a mile from the temple of Daibods, towards the mountains to the left, there was another temple, where it seems, they were celebrating their flower festival, for we saw great numbers of children resorting thither, clad in white and colour'd Catabers adorn'd with flowers, and carrying flower branches in their hands. Other people follow'd them likewise clad in white Catabers, rejoycing and crying Jassai, Jassaja From thence to Fusimi there is one continu'd row of streets and houses. We supp'd at that place, and took boat after supper to fall down the river. We advanc'd so well, that soon after midnight we came very near the town, where there is more danger by reason of the several bridges, and were forc'd to lay by till break of day.

 On the 19th of April we enter'd the town before it grew quite light, and soon after went on shore not far from our Inn. Altho' we had with great difficulty obtain'd leave, to see their way of refining the copper, as also the village Tenoizi, or Tenosi, being the chief place in the Empire for brewing of Sakki, and the Imperial city of Sakkai, which lies about four or five miles from Osacca upon the same coasts, yet thro' the moroseness and ill nature of the commanding oicers of our retinue, we were oblig'd to stay at Osacca, and they would have us pursue our journey to Fijongo forthwith and by land.

However we tarried till the 21st of April, and being even then unwilling to go to Fijongo by land, we took two sorry open boats, and arriv'd in the harbour of Fijongo before sun-set in about three hours time. They    [ 555]    would not suffer us to go on shore at Fijongo. So we went immediately to bed, without eating a supper, because we din'd very late. As we were going over to Fijongo, we met the Prince of Sutzima, with about five or six pleasureboats, one of which was varnish'd, carv'd and gilt, and had a sort of a throne plac'd upon deck.

On the 22d of April we were by contrary winds detain'd in the harbour of Fijongo, and thro' the lunacy of our Bugio, or Commander, on board our barge. Some of the Benjos only, and the chief Interpreter, had leave to go on shore, to divert themselves incognito, without the pikes and badges of their authority, or any other attendance.

On the 23d of April we continued in the harbour of Fijongo for the same reason. This evening the Prince of Tsukkusen, or Facatta, which is the place of his residence, went by in great haste and confusion, with about fifty ships and boats, large and small. The wind being favourable for them, they had all their sails hoisted and their colours flying, being not unlike those of Batavia, blew and white.

On the 24th of April, we left the harbour of Fijongo, by break of day, and came to the village Jesijma which lies on an Island, where we took in our provision of fresh water, and then weigh'd anchor, and hoisted our sail, tho' there was so little wind, that what we advanc'd was owing more to our oars, which work'd all the while.

On the 25th of April, early in the morning, we made the borough, or large village Kiono Zura, which lies about 1S Japanese miles om Muru. With sun-rise a favourable gale sprung up, which brought us pretty forward, and as far as Zireisch, where the wind turning contrary, we came soon after in sight of Tomu, lying Westward of Zireisch. Tomu on the seaside represents itself in a very curious and particular manner, by reason of a hill which stands out far into the sea, like a Cape, tho otherwise the best part of the town makes but a sorry appearance, consisting only of Mariam's, as they call them, or Bawdy Houses, and poor cottages of fishermen and common people. We coasted round tbe hill, and cast anchor in the South part of the harbour, near that part Of the town where there are houses and warehouses built along the shore, as good as any we had as yet seen. The hills and mountains round the city are cultivated, as much as possible, the uncultivated parts being either deep precipices or woods and undergrowth. A fine temple and monastery of widows stands in the ascent of a hill, which adds not a little to the beauty of the prospect of the town and adjacent country. The wind turning favourable in the night, made us weigh our anchors. In the morning we came to Iwagi, or Iwangi, a village of about an hundred houses, for the best part fishermen's cottages. This village lies at the foot of a mountain, and the houses being built at some distance from each other, make it look larger and handsomer than it really is.    [ 556]     

On the 26th of April, tho' we had the currents against us, yet the wind was as favourable as we could wish. Nevertheless some guarrels arising, almost the whole morning pass'd away in disputes, before we made any advantage of it. We weigh'd anchor about nine, and passing thro' a streight, where the currents run very much against us, we made an Island lying on this side Tsuwa, where we cast anchor in twenty fathom, but soon weigh'd again, in hopes a favourable wind would carry us as far as this harbour. But we found ourselves disappointed, and having made but little way, were forc'd at last to let our anchor go again in 28 to 29 fathom.

On the 27th of April, early in the morning, we weigh'd anchor, and the wind being variable, tho' the currents run against us, we made soon after the harbour of Tsuwo, which is almost semi-circular, situated at the foot of a mountain, which is cultivated up to the top. It hath a Pharos, or lighthouse, built on the hill, where it stands out into the sea. This village consists of about 150 houses, being for the greatest part fishermen's cottages. We staid about a quarter of an hour taking in water, and then continued our voyage. The wind continuing still favourable, brought us as far as the streights of Caminoseki, but because of the narrowness of these streights we could make no further advantage of it, nor did we advance much with our oars, and therefore cast anchor near the village Sango, seated in an Island of the same name.

On the 28th of April, it being stormy, we remain'd at Sango, and went on shore to divert ourselves. All our Benjoses got drunk, excepting the under Benjos) who affected, on this occasion, to shew his authority by his morose and repeated commands, which his trouble seem'd to be very ill bestow'd. He would make us believe, that he was a Censor of the upper Benjos, that it was his duty to have a watchful eye over his actions, and to reprimand him for them upon proper occasions. It is a political maxim receiv'd and practis'd in Japan, on purpose, that people entrusted with power, knowing that there are persons appointed to watch their very least steps and actions, shoud be kept under a perpetual fear of being betray'd to court, and bv this means oblig'd to discharge the duties of their office honestly and faithfully, to the satisfaction of their superiors.

On the 28th of April, the wind being favourable, but not througly settled, we came within a mile of the town and castle of Siensi, where we cast anchor at noon. We set sail again in the evening, but the wind turning contrary we were soon forc'd to cast anchor near land, and to lie by in the night.

On the 30th of April, we set sail again early in the morning, but the wind being not altogether favourable, and rather contrary, we lost our course, and were forc'd upon the coasts of Bungo, which we had on our larboard. As we were endeavouring to get into a harbour, about six miles from Simonoseki, the wind turning almost of a sudden into a storm,    [ 557]    we made in for the land with all the haste we could, as did also several other ships that sail'd in company with us, and about noon, it still continuing to blow hard, we came to an anchor in a small gulf, or harbour, Muggo, or Mukko, near a village or mountain of this name six miles from Siensi, and I8 miles from Simonoseki. The mouth of this gulf was narrow, but the gulf itself wide and spacious, but shallow, and in low water half dry, when the Inhabitants gather shells and oysters upon the shore. On the same gulf, about a mile from Mukko, lies the small town of Mito Ziri. We saw to day several whales, of that sort, which the Dutch call Noord Capers. A Lord, with a retinue of seven ships with blue sails, pass'd by us, but the wind continuing contrary to our course, we were forc'd to lie at anchor, as did also eight other ships bound for Simonoseki.

On the first of May, early in the morning, some barks of the Prince of Tsukingo came to an anchor not far from us. The wind did not begin to blow favourably for our course till about five in the afternoon, when we set sail forthwith, and came, in a few hours, within a mile of Motto Jamma, and from thence, by the joint help of wind and oars, to Simonoseki, where we arriv'd late at night.

On the 2d of May we left our great barge, and were set in two small pleasure-boats over the streights of Simonoseki to Kokura, which was formerly a populous and wealthy town, but lost much of its antient splendour since the division of the Province to which it belongs. It consists of three parts, or three different towns, and is defended, in some measure, by a sorry wall, built only of bricks and wood towards the sea, where it is narrowest. After dinner we set out from Kokura on horseback. About two miles from thence the sea forms a large gulf, on which lies the town of Kurosakki, which we pass'd thro'. A mile and a half further, we came to the village Koosiakf, thence after an hour's travelling to a small village, where they dug coals, thence a mile further to Kujanosse, where we lay at a small sorry Inn.

On the 3d of May we set out from Kuianosse, and riding over a dike, rais'd along the banks of a river, we came to the villages Tonno and Nagatta, one of which we had on our right, the other on our left. The valley, we travell'd thro', was not above half a mile broad, with high mountains on both sides. The next place we came to, was the village Kadsino, thence we got to Kootaki) thence to two villages call'd Kawasso, in sight of the village Kammassuza, and three others, all which we had on our left. The country hereabouts begun to be more flat, and we came, in sight of fruitful well cultivated fields, to the village Tababukro, or Kawabukuro, thence to the village Katasijma, thence to two villages callad Oja, thence thro' Tatiwa to Itzka, a small town of about 200 houses. We din'd at Itzka. After dinner we were ferried over the river which runs by this town, and then came to the village Tentomatz, thence leaving the villages Taroma on our right, and Tsibakki on our left, we came to Nagawa, a    [ 558]    pretty long village, which runs up quite to the foot of a mountain, near which it lies. Thence passing thro' three small villages Oimatz, Joko and Jama, we came to the large village Utsijno, where we took notice, that the women were very handsom, but taller and of a more agreeable and manly countenance, than they generally are in this province. Having staid a little while at this place, we were carried in Cangos to Misi Jama, where the women are as famous for their great modesty and virtuous behaviour, as for their uncommon beauty. Hence we came to Jamaije, where we lay that night.

On the 4th of May we set out from Jamaije, and came to the village Ftamira, thence over a river through a pleasant wood to Farda, a small town of about 80 houses. Here the road grew very uneven and irregular,goingpartly over hills, partly across some fields. About half a mile from Farda are the boundaries of the territories of Tsikusen, we had now pass'd thro', and those of Tsussima, we were then a going to enter. Not far from hence we came to Sijra Saka, a small village of about twenty houses, with a water-mill, thence to the village Kifamabitz, then to Imamatz, Tsinoggi and Akasakka, three several villages. From Akasakka we came to Taisero, a town of about 400 houses, and from thence to Urijino a village of 300 houses, and Todorokki, another village of near the same number of houses, and almost contiguous to the former. We din'd there, and after dinner, as we were riding thro' this village, we were shew'd a place upon the neighbouring moulltains) where there stood formerly two strong castles. From thence we came to the village Muradanamatz, thence to the village Nagaba, thence to Tsionsmatz, another village of about 700 houses, thence to the village Kirisamura, thence to Nittawa and Betabara, two more villages) thence across a well cultivated plain to the village Faddi, and soon after to Kansaki, where we lay. Kansaki is a town of about 700 houses, but the streets are very irregular. We had here an unexpected piece of civility shewn us by our Upper Benjos, for our room happening not to be large enough to hold us conveniently, he quitted his own, and left us the use of it. This place is full of temples and Monks, and the walls of our rooms were stuck so full of indulgences, that there was no room left, and in several places those of a later date pasted over the old ones. These indulgences are of the length of a sheet of paper, and about the quarter of its breadth, folded after the manner of a letter, with a printed superscription in large characters, and the seal of the Prior of the Monastery, who hath the power of giving and selling them, in red. Within there are only some small sticks of wood, commonly of fir, tied together with strings, and split, with some holy papers ty'd round them. Nay, in some there was nothing but a small bit of paper, with some lines of Sso characters, and several printed seals in red. There were also some Ofarrai's from Isje put up in the same room, being thin square boxes with the like folded papers and sticks kept within. The Lord of this Province sent to compliment our upper Benjos on his safe    [ 559]    return, and to present him with a Cobang. The under Benjos receiv'd the like compliment, and a goose by way of a present. What the said Prince intended thereby, is more than we know. In the night-time the Monks here made a vast noise, singing and ringing of bells. The country hereabouts is very pleasant, and I was not a little delighted with the great numbers Of beautiful Sakanantzo and Satzugi Flowers, of different colours, growing both wild and in gardens.

On the fifth of May, having left our Inn at Kansaki, we came to the village Ratafirasikku, then to the village Ani, then over a bridge to Faranomatz, a village of about 200 houses, then to Takkavo, a pretty large borou';h, where we were ferried over another river, and soon aiter came to the town of Sanga. We did not stop at Sanga, but rode through without alighting, and then came to the village Ojematz, thence to Kasynomatz, another village, which is divided into two parts, and hath an empty space in the middle upon the banks of the river, being the place of execution of the town of Sanga, as appear'd by the remains of five malefactors, who had been lately executed there, four of whom we found still hanging on the cross, and the head of the fifth fix'd to a pale. I took notice that there were guard houses on both sides of the place, and soldiers to guard the bodies. They had set a house on fire, which burnt down lately at Sanga, and had been taken again, after they had once broke out of jail. One of these poor wretches to avoid the shame of a publick execution hang'd himself, but nevertheless his body was laid on the cross; the head was their landlord's, who harbour'd and conceal'd them, and was therefore sentenc'd to undergo the same punishment. From Kasje riding over a bridge I20 paces long, we came to the village Botak, a mile and a half off which was a high mountain, where within a mile's compass, I counted ten different villages. We then came to Utsisu, or Utsinsi, a village of about an hundred houses, then to Simatz another village seated at the foot of a mountain. Here we were ferried over a river, which hath the tide, and then came to the village Kangawa; an hour after, to the village Tiramatz, then to the village Torimatz, then through another small village to our Inn at Ooda, which is a pretty large borough. From Ooda, we came to the villages Owatz and Wewasi. We were ferried in boats over a river near the village Icongommi, then passing over a bridge laid over a large river, which not far from thence runs into the gulph of Simabara, and further passing through several small hamlets, dispers'd up and down, Xve came to Narsi, a large borough, where there is great cluantities of fire-wood sold, by reason of the woods and gorests lying round it. Thence we came to a small village and so on to another, riding all along between hills and through woods. From this latter village a plain runs down towards the Sea, with some more small hamlets dispers'd up and down, about half a mile from one another. At last, after an hour's riding,    [ 560]    we came to Swota a large borough, wash'd by a river which likewise discharges itself into the gulf of Simabara, on which at that time there were several barges laden with wood. Swota is very famous for extraordinary good china pots and dishes, and other china-ware, which is made there. We lay at Swota, and for want of a better accommodation, we were forc'd to take up with a sorry garret of a poor cottage.

On the sixth of May we left Swota betimes in the morning, and soon came to the village Tiromatz, thence riding tor near an hour along the banks of the abovemention'd river, we were ferried over it, and so came to Mino, a village situate at the foot of a mountain. Opposite to it lies another village call'd Ooksano Having pass'd through Mino, we were again ferried over a river, and so came to the village Imadira, then cross a large valley to Sijmosi another village, thence through the village Urissijno to the large village Jebosijwa. From Jebosi)wa we cross'd another valley, then passing by a wooden Mercury in the highway, and riding through three small hamlets, which were not above a quarter of a mile distant from each other, we came to the mountain Taura, or Tawara, where there is a Fisenban, as they call it, that is, a Guard of the Prince of Fisen, at a village call'd Tawarasakka, being just upon the edge of his dominions. On the other side of the mountain Tawara, is the large village Fide Jamma. Not far from Tawarasakka are two bound stones to separate the dominions of Fisen and Omurathe first of these bound-stones, tho' it stood lower than the other, by reason of the ways going up hill, yet it was much higher, to signify that the dominions of the Prince of Fisen are also much larger than those of the Prince of Omura. We then came to a small village, consisting only of eight houses, where an Upper Benjos of Tangosama, Prince of Fisen, who had conducted us through that Prince's dominions, took his leave of us and left us to pursue our journey over the mountain Tawara. The large camphire-tree, which I had mention'd above in the journal of our journey to court, was now in full blossom and a very beautiful sight. From thence we came to another wooden Mercury, there being great numbers of them up and down the country, thence to a large village, thence thro' some small hamlets and cross a fruitful field to Sonogi, which is the true name of the place, tho' some call it Sinongi. We staid here a pretty while, as it were to wait, till the barges which were to bring us over the gulf of Omura, could be got ready, but in fact, that we should not come to Tokitz too early, nor have any pretext to desire to make an end of our journey this day, and by this means to avoid the troublesome and chargeable honour, of being receiv'd the next day, as usual, by our Japanese friends of Nagasaki, who come to meet us at some distance out of the town. We were therefore necessitated to stay that night at Jokitz. It rain'd very hard all night, nor was there any appearance the next morning that the weather would clear up.   [ 561]     Nevertheless, on the 7th of May, we left Tokitz in the morning, in order to make the remaining, and indeed the worst part of our journey, and about noon we arriv'd safely at Desima. We were oblig'd, before we enter'd the town, to leave our Cangos, and to mount on horseback, and about thirty paces before we came to our Island, we alighted also from our horses. The Ambassador however, and the Bugjo, after some deliberation, caus'd themselves to be carried in their Norimons to the gate of our factory. And so we return'd thanks to Almighty God for his owerful protection in this journey to court.

I proceed now to give an account of the most remarkable occurrencies which happen'd after our return to Desima, till our next journey to court.

On the 8th of May, early in the morning, our barge came from Simonoseki, and cast anchor not tar from our Island.

On the 9th of May two Benjos, with the usual attendance, came over to Desima to be present at the unlading of our barge, and the opening of the watergates and warehouses, and to return to every one out of the said barge, what belong'd to him. I could not but take notice on this occasion of a particular instance, how far the Japanese are apt to mistrust one another: for the Benjos, g who was with us at court, came in thro' the land-gate, and went away by the water-gate; the other on the contrary came in by the water-gate, and went out by the land-gate, so that there was one of them present at the shutting of each gate.

On the 11th of May our Director and Abouts went to wait on the Governors of the town, for the first time since our return.

On the 12th of May arriv'd several Barges and Benjos in the harbour, which were sent by the Prince of Tsikusen, as is usual once a year, to relieve those of the Prince of Fisen.

Nothing remarkable happen'd till the 28th of May, when the first homeward bound Chinese yonks set sail for that Empire, to the number of twenty, within four days time.

The first of June was a holiday with the Japanese, tvhich the Dutch call Pelang. The Japanese on this day divert themselves upon the water, running races in boats and canoes, frequently crying Pelo, and ringing small bells All the houses are adorn'd with flags and other naval ornaments made of thick paper. However, the festival seems to be caIculated purely for the diversion of young people, all grown persons being forbid on that day to meddle or interfere with their pleasures- (See Vol. II., p. 27 of this History, and the History of the Tea in the Appendix.)

On the 3d of June some smuglers were apprehended in the night, who had smuggled some goods from the Chinese. One of them attempted to stab himself, but was quickly prevented by the person that arrested him, having receiv'd but a slight wound. But nevertheless, after he was secur'd, and depriv'd of all possible means of hurting himself, out of a rage and despair, he bit off part of his tongue, thinking thereby to make an end of his life, and to prevent the shame of a publick execution.   [ 562]    The Japanese Satsuki, or Rainy Season, begun about this time, setting in, as it usually doth, with heavy and almost continual showers of rain, stormy and wet weather.

 This is the proper season for planting rice, which is done in this country by women and young girls.

On the 20th of June, we view'd our barges, one of which was condemn'd, as being old, and not fit to be repair'd We din'd the same day, in one of the temples on a nelghbouring hill.

About this time several yonks and barges set sail for China and other places, and others came into this harbour, for which reason, and to prevent smugling, which is so severely forbid by the laws of the country, the town was kept shut in the niht-time, and all passengers, of what rank soever, narrow y search'd.

On the 29th of June, in the night, a Chinese yonk from Batavia, with the Prince's colours, came into this harbour.

On the 10th of July, ended the yearly sale, which lasts seven days. The same day was celebrated the festival of Giwon, one of the chief and most powerful Idols of the Japanese.

On the 16th of July, the oath was administred to our cooks, and to the rest of our officers, to oblige them not to enter into any familiarity, or private commerce with us, and they all sign'd it with their blood.

On the 20th of July, two young men were found dead in the streets, one of which had kill'd the other with his scimeter, and then, to avoid being apprehended and punish'd, cut his own throat. A few days before a servant made away with himself, ripping open his belly. Another servant cut his throat, for no other reason, but because he had been affronted by another servant, for which affront he could obtain no satisfaction from the Mayor of the town, who could not take the affair into his cognizance, by reason of its being done in the Governorvs own house. A few days after another was found drown'd under the bridge, with his throat half cut. So little apprehensive of death is this nation.

On the 30th of July, five men were brought prisoners from Amak. They broke into the village Isafaja, with an intention to steal some goods, which they had heard were brought thither privately by the Chinese. But they not only miss'd their booty, but were taken in the fact, and sent up to Nagasaki to be there committed to prison.

Several yonks from China, and other places, came into this harbour, for these several days last past, among the rest two large yonks from Siam, who had been sixty days on their voyage, and brought us news, that when they set sail from Siam, they had seen our ships in that harbour.

On the 1st of August, was celebrated the festival Tannabatta, as they commonly call it, otherwise Siokuso. The night before every man lies with his wife, and discharges his matrimonial duties, in memory of a certain remarkable event. The next morning the solemnity begins with mutual compliments.   [ 563]    The 3d of August, is a particular day for going to the temple. They call it the day of Quanwon, and Sennitzmaira, that is the day of thousand days, because he, that visits that day the temple of Quanwon, doth as good an act, as if he had been there for a thousand days together.

They have but one temple sacred to Quanwon at Nagasaki.

On the 8th of August, there was another festival call'd Bon. People on that occasion attend for one whole night at the tombs of their ancestors and relations, with lights and lanthorns. The solemnity of this festival began upon the 7th, and lasted for three days together. They believe, that the souls of deceas'd persons, whether they led a good or bad life, walk about, and visit the places of their fiormer abode.

On the 10th of August, we had notice given us of the arrival of our ship, calr'd the Wallenburg, and accordingly she enter'd the harbour soon after, and cast anchor not far from Desima, on the 11th, in the afternoon.

On the 12th of August, we receiv'd news, that another of our ships call'd Jacht wink op see, had been observ'd sailing towards the harbour, where she arriv'd the next day.

On the 15th of August, after the ships company on board the Wallenburg had been review'd as usual, they began to unIade that ship, which took up four days time.

On the 22d of August, they proceeded after the same manner to unlade the ship Tacht wink op see, which came by the way of China, and this business was done in three days time.

On the 23d of August, having had notice, that another of our ships had been seen sailing towards the harbour, I and some more were sent to meet her. We din'd in the Island Jwo, two German miles from Nagasaki, at the mouth of the harbour. After dinner we went one mile further with our boats to wellcome the said ship, which we found to be the Bosswinck from Batavia.

On the 24th of August, the Bosswink came to an anchor near Desima, and was review'd the next day, and then unladen in three days time.

About this time we had news from Jedo of the death of Kinmotsama, formerly Governor of Nagasaki, and the same, who in the year 1680, Dr. Cleyer being then director

Of our affairs, caused 18 Japanese to be executed for smugling) some of whom were beheaded, others hung on the cross. This he did of his own accord, without laaing the case before the council of state at Jedo, or waiting for orders from thence, and was for this reason depriv'd of his office, and condemn'd to an arrest in his own house, under which he died.

On the 7th of September was celebrated the festival of the Moon, as the Japanese call it, and the light of the Moon, according to the Chinese. People on thls occasion divert themselves with walking about in the night by moonshine: some take the diversion of rowing about in their boats. Little regard is had to this festival at Nagasaki, because of the strict    [ 564]    watch kept in this city, to prevent smugling, and the narrow search made after the Inhabitants several times in the night.

On the gth of September some of our goods were expos'd to be view'd, and on the Ioth was kept the first Camban, or day of sale.

On the 25th of September, four smuglers were brought prisoners to Nagasaki, and on the first of October four more were apprehended and brought hither by the whale fishers.

On the 2d of October, the boat, which belong'd to these smuglers, was brought hither also, with four more of the accomplices, two of which wript open their bellies, but nevertheless their bodies were salted and brought hither. That night another person, who was concern'd in this smugling affair, kill'd himself bycuttingopen his belly. Another made his escape notwithstanding the gates of the street had been shut, and strict enquiry made after him.

On the 4th of October, another of the accomplices made his escape, and an under Interpreter, who had lent money for this purpose, cut his belly. Their leader, who was likewise apprehended, bit off his tongue out of rage, and not to be oblig'd to betray his accomplices. Though he was laid in irons, and secur'd, as well as they could, yet he found means to tear his gown to pieces, and to make a sort of a rope, to strangle himself. A book was found upon one of the prisoners, wherein were set down the respective sums bought and sold, with the names of the accomplices, and how much money every one had advanc'd. This laid the whole state of the affair open, and discover'd many of the Inhabitants. For this reason strict enquiries were made day and night, and ever since the departure of the Chinese Yonks a strict review was made of all the Inhabitants of every street thrice every night. Three persons were apprehended at Nagasaki and put to the question. When the Chinese Yonks are upon their departure, and for some time after, there is a strict review made constantly every night, as soon as the gates of the streets are shut, to see whether there be no body wanting, that might be supposed to have follow'd the Chinese, who generally stay some days upon the coasts, waiting for smuglers. It is surprizing that the people of Nagasaki should so frequently expose themselves, and for a trifling gain run so great a hazard, knowing, that when discover'd, they have nothing but death to expect, either by their own hands, or those of the publick executioner, and one should wonder at the Chinese themselves that they are willing to lose much time waiting upon the coasts, whilst the Inhabitants of Tsukusiu Karatz, where there are not such strict inquiries made, have much more opportunities to carry on a smugling trade with them.

On the 6th of October, another of the accomplices found means to make his escape. On this occasion the gates of the streets were shut forthwith, and all the Japanese, who were then in our Island had orders to repair to their houses. One of the Ottona's was depriv'd of    [ 565]    his office, and arrested in his own house, because the person that escap'd was his prisoner, and an inhabitant of his street. Upwards of an hundred persons of every street, where there was any body missing, were commanded up into the mountains in quest of the fugitives.

On the 7th of October, two or three more Inhabitants

of Nagasaki were discover'd by the prisoners and committed.

This intricate affair, wherein very near an hundred natives of Nagasaki were concern'd, besides their relations and strangers, brought so much business upon the Goverwor's hands, that our Camban, or the sale of our goods, which should have been ten days sooner was deferr'd till the 11th of October. For the Governor was not to be spoke with for this fortnight last past, and even his own domesticks durst not interrupt him, unless upon very pressing occasions.

On the 14th of October, being Saturday, early in the morning, we perceiv'd two violent shocks of an Earthquake, which lasted about half a minute each. The shock was so sensible, even in the harbour, that the pilot of one of our ships, who was then on board, was thrown out of his bed. The dogs and ravens made a great noise on shore, being disturb'd in their sleep.

On the 1st of October, a Kuli, or porter, was apprehended at the gate, as he was coming away from our Island, and some Camphire was found upon him, upon which Mr. Reinss, of whom the prisoner confess'd he bought it, was immediately carried before the mayor of the town. The Kuli himself, the merchant for whom the Camphire was bought, and his landlord were by order from the Governor secured by their Ottona's, and laid in irons.

On the 22d of October, and some following days, all our ships were search'd, one after another, in presence of two Interpreters, for several things, as among the rest for Professor Silvius his Sal volatile oleosum, which had been demanded by the Emperor in our last audience, as an excellent Panacea of health and long Life.

On the 24th of October three smuglers were brought prisoners from Fisen. They were taken in the fact, as they were buying some goods of the Chinese, two of them found means to make their escape, upon which our Kuli, and some more of our servants were order'd forth with to quit their work, and to run after the fugitives The third ript open his own belly.

On the same 24th of October, the Governor sent his Secretary and a Benjos to acquaint our resident with the sentence, he had pronounc'd in the affair of the camphire, which was, that the person that bought it, and the merchant for whom it was bought, should be both beheaded, and further to desire him, that Mr. Reinss who sold the camphire, might be forthwith secur'd on board one of our ships in order to be sent to Batavia, and to be there deliver'd up to Justice. It was intimated at the same time, that since so many of their people had lost their lives for this crime,    [ 566]    they would be necessitated at last to take other measures, and in case Mr. Reinss, or any the like oSender, should not be exemplarily punish'd by the supreme court of judicature at Batavia, they would for the future do themselves justice.

Nothing was done on the first of November, it being the last day of a festival call'd Kunnitz, which is celebrated all over Japan, and begins upon the 27th of October.

On the fifth of November, some gentlemen came over to Desima, sent by the Governor. Both the directors of our trade, and the captains of the ships, and all the Dutchmen then at Desima from the highest to the meanest, were summon'd before them, upon which they represented to the directors of our factory, in a long and grave speech, that knowing how rigorous their laws were against smugling, and how often they prov'd fatal to their people, it was expected that we should have a little more regard thereto, than was hitherto done. Then two Japanese were brought before them, who smugled two Catti's of camphire, and were for this offence sentenc'd to be beheaded, upon which both the directors of our trade were desir'd in the strongest terms, for the future to use all their authority and attention, to prevent the like accidents, withal intimating to them, that if so reasonable a demand was not duly complied with, they would be necessitated to make our people undergo the same punishment, which so many of theirs had already suffer'd.

On the sixth of November, the Jacht Bosswinck, weigh'd anchor, and by the help of the tide fell down as far as the Papenberg.

On the seventh of November, she was follow'd by the Jackt Wink op See, and

On the eighth in the afternoon by the Floot Walenburg, on board which went the late director Mr. Butenheim, on his return to Batavia.

On the tenth of November, in the morning, we had notice given us as usual, by the guard at the tops of the mountains, that they had lost sight of all our ships. The same day the Japanese came to search our rooms, as they said, for they were satisfied with looking into them. The same day between nine and ten a clock in the evening there happen'd of a sudden another violent Earthquake. It lasted not so long as that on the 14th of October, but the shock was stronger, and broke some glasses in my room. It was follow'd after midnight by another shock, but less violent, the weather being all along serene and calm. This second shock was succeeded by three, and these by two more, which were so inconsiderable, that we scarce perceiv'd them.

On the 23d of November died Mr. Dieck, and was decently interr'd on the 24th, on the West-side of Inassa, or Inassa no Jamma, a small mountain. We attended his funeral with three large and two small prows, or boats.

On the 30th of November, I took an opportunity of writing to my very ingenious and learned friend Dr. Cleyer, by a chinese yonk, which lay ready to set sail for Batavia.   [ 567]    On the first of December, we sent several sorts of stuffs to the Governor's house, for him to chuse what he thought might be most acceptable to the Emperor.

On the second of December, and three following days we were busy in taking a list of the deceas'd Mr. Dieck his goods and effects. On the seventh of December arriv'd from Jedo Tsino Cami, formerly call'd Gensajmon, Governor of Nagasaki. Several Benjos came to Nagasaki before him, who had been sent by the Princes of Firando, Omura, Amakusa, Simabara, Karatz, and other neighbouring Daimio's to wait his arrival, and out of respect for the Emperor to compliment him on his safe return. If by chance any one of these Princes should be there to make his compliment in person, he for a while leaves the precedency to the Governor, tho' of an inferior rank, and this only out of respect for the Emperor, after whose health he enquires, for as soon as the mutual compliments are over, he takes place of him again. These few days last past the remaining twenty chinese yonks left this harbour to proceed on their several voyages.

On the 19th of September being Sunday, the three Governors of Nagasaki came to make us a visit at Desima, as is usual once a year. They pay another to the Chinese.

On the tenth of December, Tsino Cami, our great antagonist gave us the first instance, since his return, of his hatred and ill will, for he sent to acquaint us early in the morning, to keep our selves in readiness to see the execution of two persons condemn'd to die on our account, because, as I have mention'd above, they had privately bought some camphire of a Dutchman. An Account of this execution having been already given, Vol. II., pp. 244-7 of this History, the Reader is referr'd thither. I was told by Josejmon and Senbe, two of our Interpreters, that Sedaje, another of our Interpreters, was the sole cause of the execution of these two unhappy wretches, for the sum not exceeding ten Thails, he should not have laid the case before the Governor, the rather since the other Interpreters took no notice of it. We made besides another step to save their lives, and deliver'd the day before the execution a paper to the Governor, where n we represented to him, that the camphire had not been bought, but stole from our Island. But this severe and cruel Judge would not hearken to our proposals. The Judges in this country, generally speaking, are little illclin'd to mercy, the criminals are try'd without loss of time, and the facts being prov'd, which is the only thing they go upon, they are punish'd according to law mith the utmost severity.

About the same time Siubosama, one of the Governors s of this place, caused one of his own domestick Benjos to be beheaded, only for being drunk and quarrelsome. Another Benjos who interceded for him, and begg'd of the Governor not to punish him with so much severity, was for    [ 568]    his pains laid in irons. The like executions are said to be very frequent in their families.

On the 20th of December, at two of the clock in the morning, Siubosama set out on his journey for Jedo. Tho' it rain'd very hard, yet the civility, which is usually paid them on this occasion, requir'd that the officers of the town, and of our Island, should attend him out of Nagasaki. Two Kuli's were order'd to wait his arrival all night long, near a river on the road to Isafai, for all it was so cold, that one of them was starv'd to death, and the other taken dangerously ill.

On the 28th of December, eight and twenty malefactors were executed for smugling, thirteen of whom were laid upon the cross, and the rest beheaded. Among those laid on the cross, were the bodies of five, who, to prevent the shame of a publick execution, made away with themselves, ripping open their bellies. There were still many more languishing in prison, like to meet with no better treatment.

On the 18th of January 1692, we receiv'd advice from Osacca, that of the four smuglers, who had made their escape, three had been apprehended there by the spies sent after them by Sino Cami, who found them, as they were drinking and making merry together. It is to be fear'd many more will be discover'd by their confession.

On the 19th of January, in the night, a Smith coming from a Mariam or a Bawdy-house, cut three people, whom he met in the street, but the wounds prov'd not mortal. This cutting is said to be not uncommon in the streets of Nagasaki at night.

On the 20th of January, we heard, that the Prince of Imagada had been depriv'd by the Emperor of five Mangokf of his revenue, because some thousands of his subjects had been forc'd to run away, by reason of the heavy tases and exactions laid on them by his secretary, a young man lately come to this office, which was there upon taken from him, and given to his Predecessor, till the said five Mangokf should be by the Emperor assign'd to somebody else.

The 1st of February, and following days, were spent about making the necessary preparations for our next journey to court, chusing the presents for the Emperor, which was done by the Governors of this city, lading and sending our barge to Simonoseki, as also appointing and giving the necessary instructions to the proper officers, who were to go up with us to Court.   [ 569]

 

Chap. XIV. Our Second Journey to Court.

We set out from Desima, on our second journey to court, on the 2d of March, 6692, at eight of the clock in the morning. Sassamorifanfao, a Joriki, went with us, as Commander in chief, and the Dosen, Simadaskeimon, as his Deputy. They were attencted bv two town-messengers of Nagasaki, Sadaje as chief Interpreter, and a deputy Interpreter. Our Interpreters and friends of Nagasaki honour'd us with their company out of town, as far as a temple call'd Tensi, seated on the East-side of the town of Sakarababa, and attended by Jammabos, where we were civilly entertain'd by them. It was already ten in the morning, when we left that temple to proceed on our journey. We were carried in Cangos, the roads being very uneven and mountainous, to Fooge, the top of a Inountain of that name, from whence we came to the village Fimi, not far from which lies Aba, a large village inhabited by fishermen. We took horses at Fimi, and thence came to the village Jagami, where we dined, and svere again treated by some of our friends, who would keep us company so far, with Soccana and Sacci. After dinner they took their leave of us, not a little surpriz'd, that, contrary to custom, we did not make the usual returns for their civility. Little minding their sour looks we chearfully continued our journey, and came, through the village Koga, to another call'd Isafaja, having first rode over three bridges. Not far from Isafaja, we beheld not without admiration the side of a mountain, leaning or hanging over so much, that one could not help being apprehensive, that the stones would break lose every moment and tumble down. It was past seven a clock at night when we came to Isafaja, where we made but a short stay, eating a small supper, and immediately after, about eight that evening, went on board three barges belonging to the Prince of Fisen, which lay there ready to receive us, with another for the transport of ortr baggage, and a boat to go from one barge to another. We made the best of our way rowing as far as the village Takasakki, where we got before midnight, and cast anchor, lying by, some hours, to see whether the wind would be favourable for our passage; for had it prov'd contrary, we would have been oblig'd to go on shore there, and to continue our journey by land. This gulph is by the Dutch call'd the Boght van arima, and is the same which t for the insurrection of the christians living in these parts, and the dreadful war carried on against them near hundred years ago, is become so very famous in the Japanese history. It is very shallow about Takasakki, for which reason ships    [ 570]    and boats lying there at anchor, must wait for the tide in order to get off, which we did accordingly, and having set sail made On the third of March, early in the morning, the mouth of the river Janagawa, where it discharges itself into the gulf of Arima, about three quarters of a mile, computing its windings and turnings, firom the bridge and gate of the castle, the tower whereof made a very handsome appearance at a quarter of a mile's distance. We could not persuade the gentlemen, that were sent to attend us in our passage over this gulf, nor the watermen, to take any thing by way of return for their civility and trouble, tho' besides we had been handsomly treated by them, in the morning, with Japanese victuals and Sakki. They excused themselves upon having receiv'd express orders so to do from the Prince of Fisen his Lieutenant, who, during his absence, had the administration of his Principality, he himself being not yet return'd from Jedo. At the mouth of the river Janagawa we found a pleasure-boat ready to bring us up to that place. Janagawa hath nothing remarkable, but a castle and tower, the place itself consisting only of a few irregular streets, inhabited chiefly by fishermen. We din'd there, and after dinner we came, first to a small village, just upon the edge of the territory of Janagawa, where it borders upon that of Kuruma, thence passing thro' several small hamlets dispers'd up and down, we enter'd upon a plain, cut thro' by many canals, and then came to a village call'd Jokomiso, thence thro' Tokoromatz, by some Osymmatz, to Sijkkambas, both pretty considerable villages. From Sijkkambas we were ferried in small boats over a broad river, which runs down towards Sanga. Our horses were ferried over after the same manner, without being unladen, which enabled us to continue our journey without loss of time. We pass'd thro' several villages, which lay dispers'd on the road, and so came to Daisensi, a large borough, thence to the town of Kongo, or Kurmei Kongomatz, another considerable borough, thence to the town of Kurume where we arriv'd at five in the evening. Kurume hath a very good castle with walls, ditches, stately gates and drawbridges. We were honourably attended in our passage over the territory of Kurume, by six gentlemen

Peputed by the Lord of this small Principality, five whereof took their leave of us the next morning, kneeling ill a very submissive manner, but the sixth had orders to stay, and conduct us quite to the edge of his dominions. At night the street-door and backdoor of our Inn were both shut, and strongly bolted, in order, as they said, to guard us from thieves. It was in vain I took the liberty seriously to represent to our leaders, that it was the greatest affront they could possibly put upon us, to guard and watch us after this manner, and to make people think as if we were Criminals or Portuguese, or Priests carried up prisoners to court, and not free, and the Emperor's friends, going of our own accord to be admitted into his presence. Nothing durst be undertaken contrary to the strict orders given by our malicious chief Interpreter, who upon all occasions shewnd himself to be a profess'd and bitter enemy to our trade and nation.    [ 571]    This town consists of a few long but regular streets, cut at right angles. The number of houses may amount to about a thousand, many of which are open and uninhabited, looking more like cottages. It was remarkable that, in our passage thro' this town, there was no body to be seen in the street, along which we rode, all the Inhabitants being in their houses kneeling behind skreens and lattice windows, but the cross-streets were lin'd with crowds of spectators, kneeling on both sides and keeping a profound silence. And in our passage thro' this whole territory, every body we met on the road was commanded by our conductors to withdraw out of the way, to alight from their horses if on horseback, and kneeling and bareheaded to wait in the next field, till our whole retinue was gone by.

On the 4th of March, we set out from Kurume before break of day, and leaving the road, which goes to Ftsju an old castle, lying about a mile off on our right, we were ferried, with our horses and baggage, over the rapid River Mijanodsigawa, and then came to the village Mijanodsi, from whence the river hath borrow'd its name. Thence riding thro' a long village, the houses whereof lay very much dispers'd, and were inhabited chiefly by husbandmen, we came to the borders of the territory of Kurume, where it confines upon a small tract of land belonging to the crown. The man, that had attended us so far by express command from the Lord of Kurume, took here his leave of us, on his knees, and in a very submissive manner. The country between Janagawa and this place is very fiuitful, abounding chiefly in rice, the fields being cut thro' by many canals, deriv'd from the rivers. We travell'd the best part of the way over dikes rais'd on the banks of the rivers, and along these canals. But the small tract of ground we were now entring upon, was but an indifferent country, marshy and full of turf. We came next to Maatzgasaki, a village of about 150 houses, thence to Maatzsaki another village, thence thro' a small hamlet, and over a river to the boundaries of this small territory belonging to the crown, where it confines upon the dominions of Tsikusen, or Fakatta. Here we turn'd in towards the highway, which comes from Akitsuki in Tsikungo. The first place we came to was Isibitz a small village, from whence we got to the borough of Jamaijo, where the night before lay one of the Princes of the Empire on his return from court, which was the reason that we found the roads very neat and clean. We din'd at Jamaijo, and after dinner set out again in Cangos, preceded by two messengers of the Prince of Tsikusen. We came first to Togenotsieija, a small hamlet, then to the village Utsijno, where we exchang'd our Cangos against fresh horses. We got two Steenbrassems, (a sort of fish very much valu'd by the Japanese) at an Inn at this place, and were civilly treated by some Ladies with Sakki. We thence came to the village Oimatz, not far from which stands a temple, thence crossing the river, which we hitherto had on our right, to the large village Nagawa, thence to the village Mamida, thence to the borough of    [ 572]    Tentomatz, thence to the village Akimatz,

and thence over a wooden bridge to the suburbs and town of Mamidsuka, otherwise Itzka, where we lay that night.

On the 5th of March, we set out with flambeaux at four of the clock in the morning, and after an hour's riding we came to the village Kawabukura, two hours after to the village Kootaki, or Bambou, thence over a river to the village Akasi, an hour after crossing another river to the village Sakai, thence to Nogatta, the place of residence of Isijno, a son of the Prince of Tsikusen, which we took notice had no towers, as other princely residences have. From thence we came to Kujanosse, a large borough, where the people look'd very black and dirty, perhaps by reason of their burning coals. The country from the mountains of Iiiamitz, as far as this place, was exquisitely fine and fruitful; but here it became again indifferent and mountainous. We travell'd this day chiefly over dikes rais'd on the banks of a river. We din'd at Kujanosse, and after dinner we came to the village Tseijanofaru, thence to Isijsaki another village, where the road goes pretty much up-hill, thence to the village Koosiakf, thence to Ujenofar, another village, thence to the large borough of Kurosakki, where we exchang'd our horses against Cangos, which one may find ready at all times, it being pretty wet weather, and the roads very dirty and uneven. We thence came to the village Nandoki, thence to the village Kimmatz, thence to the suburb and temple Fijomi, Arom which we enter'd the town of Kokura. We were, according to custom, treated K by our landlord here, with Japanese victuals, and staid till eleven at night, during which time the Bugjo dispatch'd his letters for Nagasaki. As soon as the tide became favourable for our passage, we set out from Kokura in two boats, and got over to Simonoseki on the 6th of March, at two of the clock in the morning. Soon after we came to our Inn the breakfast was dress'd, first for the Japanese, then for us, but we refus'd to take it. Our other boat did not come to Simonoseki till six in the morning, they having not so many watermen. We went on board our barge the same day, but did not set sail, as well by reason of the wind's being against us, as pursuant to an old custom.

On the 7th of March, the wind was westerly and favourable, but, in the opinion of the Japanese too strong, so they kept us at anchor one day longer, pretending that the small boat which was to follow us, could not support the shocks of a sea, as they fancy'd, so stormy and boisterous. It was a very cold and snowy day.

The wind continuing favourable till the 8th of March, we set sail that day at four of the clock in the morning in clear and moon-shiny weather. In sight of the Island Fimesima, bearing E. S. E. we had the country and village Iwaja on our larboard. The high mountains between Fimesima and Busjen, were then cover'd with snow, as were also those of Nagatta, on our larboard. Looking out between them we saw the open sea, bearing S. E. and S. E. by E. when we came to Fimesima, which lies about three    [ 573]    or four miles off, the country of Jwaja, and two neighbouring Islands Kansju bore North, a mile and a half distant. Muko lies I8 miles from Simonoseki. At noon we pass'd the streights of Caminoseki, and had the Island Jokosima a head of us, the Island and mountain Sembo on our Larboard, and the course to Genjuri on our Starl}oard. At two in the afternoon we pass'd by the Island Okino Camiro, which we had on our Larboard in sight of Itsusima on our Starboard, half a mile distant. At half an hour after three we had a village and small gulf on our left, and the Island Insima on our right. Half a mile further we made vhe Island Tsuwano Marosima, thence after a course of two miles the Island and harbour Tsuwo, and half a mile further the village Nuwa, where we cast anchor with the setting of the sun, having made to day in all forty seven water miles.

On the 9th of March, we set sail again early in the morning, but the wind soon ceasing, we advanc'd but slowly, and tacking about all day long we could get no further than Mitarei, where we cast anchor at four in the afternoon in company of upwards of thirty other boats, two among the rest, with young wenches on board, which they offer'd to passengers sailing from ship to ship.

On the 10th of March, we set sail by break of day, alld the wind being very favourable, we left the streights of Fanaguri on our larboard, and directed our course to the starboard round Khurissima, which is the residence of a petty Prince, whose dominions consist in nine neighhouring Islands, besides a small tract of ground which he hath near Firesima on the continent of the province Aki. Though this residence be but small, yet the houses seem'd to be very neat and handsome. Two miles further S. E. we had on our right the town and castle of Imabara, the residence of a son of the prince of Kijnokuni. The castle particularly seem'd to be a large and spatious building svith a stately tower. We then steer'd East, passing between several Islands, and before sunset we came to Sijmotsui, a small town of about 4oo houses or upwards, Si built along the shore, with a wall built of free stone, in three separate places, being so many parts of the town, each govern'd by a Joriki. The mountain, at the foot whereof this town lies, hath a row of Matz-Trees planted along its ridge, as have also the hills and mountains of most neighbouring Islands, which affords a very curious si,ht, their tops appearing at a distance, as if they were fring'd. (See Fig. 110.)

On the 11th of March, the sea being becalmed almost of a sudden, a storm was apprehended, for which reason we let down our mast, and took in our sail. Nevertheless we set out before sunrise, and made what way we could by rowing, but a formidable storm quickly arising out of W. S. W. we were forc'd to cast six anchors, being a bood way off the bay, where we could have rode much safer. All this was done according to order from our malicious chief Interpreter, who envied us the pleasure of the town, and the safe riding there in company of other    [ 574]    barges. The next day when I represented to him, what danger he had expos'd us to by his capriciousness and malice, and that it would have been entirely laid to his charge, if any misfortune had happen'd to us, he pretended that it was done for no other reason, but that we should be readier to set sail upon the storm's blowing over.

On the 12th of March, the storm ceasing and the wind abating, but blowing favourably for our course, we set sail, and at three in the afternoon, we came to an anchor in the harbour of Muru, having run to day in all twenty water-miles. The harbour of Muru was at that time full of barges and boats, of which I counted upwards of 150. (See Fig. 111.)

On the 13th of March, we set sail with a small gale, soon after we were almost becalm'd, for which reason, and it being already past noon when we came to Fidsimi, we resolv'd to return to Muru, which is but five watermiles off, where we came to anchor at three in the afternoon. Fimedsi is a town with a spacious castle and stately tower, but it hath no harbour, nor any good anchoring ground, the bottom being shallow and rocky all thereabouts.

On the 14th of March, we continu'd at anchor in the harbour of Muru, the weather being stormy.

But on the Isth, we set sail early in the morning, and at two in the afternoon came to an anchor in the harbour of Fiongo, where we took small boats, and in the evening rr.ade the harbour of Osacca, where wte met our landlord, who came with several pleasureboats between six and seven at night, to bring us up the river to that city, as usual.

On the 16th we repos'd our selves from the fatigues of our preceding voyage.

On the 17th of March, we had our audience of the Governor: we were, besides the guard-room, carry'd thro' two other apartments wherein were hung up several arms, in the first, for instance, twenty small guns, with brass locks, black and blue matches of Bambous, boxes for keeping Gun-powder, and other instruments for lading, as also many great black japan'd bows, each of the length Of two mats, with a pair o leather gloves, ty'd to them, alld as many japan'd quivers fill'd with arrows. In the second room were hung up twice the number of the same 3rms. Having staid a little while in a small room, we Xvere thence conducted into a large apartment, whither the Governor repair'd soon after, and sate himself down, first at considerable distance from us, but soon drawing nearer, and seating himself within two mats of us, after the usual compliments, he enquir'd very civilly after our persons, quality and age. He then told me of a particular distemper one of his family had labour'd under, for then already ten years, enquiring whether I would undertake to cure the same; upon which desiring to see the patient, he return'd me in answer, that it was in a private part of his body, and withal desir'd me    [ 575]    to regulate my prescriptions and medicines, as well as I could, according to the description he had given me of the distemper, which I did that afternoon. The rest of the audience was taken up with examining our hats, with making us write, paint and sing. We were also desir'd to dance, and to shew them more of our customs and ceremonies, but we refus'd it. A little while after we took our leave. The Governor was a tall man, of a pale countenance, about fifty years of age, curious and inquisitive. He spoke much of our dress, and very civilly desir'd the Captain to take off his cloak, that he might have a fuller view of him.

The other Governor was gone to court. We were nevertheless oblig'd to call at his house, and made our compliments to his Steward, who receiv'd us in the guardroom. The Governor's house standing at the upper end of a narrow lane, about fifty paces from the street, we left our Cangos there, and walk'd up to it, tho' it rain'd pretty hard. We got home about noon, and spent the afternoon packing up our baggage.

On the 18th of March, we set out from Osacca before break of day, but could not go the comrnon road, which was then mending and shut up. We therefore travellzd over dilies and causways for about two miles, and in the first place came to the temple of Montodira, then to the village Nuda, then to the village Tsitziwanagara, to the right of which lies the village Kassingai about a mile from our Inn, then to the village Tomobutz, opposite to which on the left hand, and on the other side of the river, lies the village Sijmanagara, thence to the village Kimma) opposite to which lies the large village Sarrasij, inhabited chiefly by whitsters, who wash and whiten their linnen upon the banks of the river. Thence riding further we came to the village Akagawa, thence to the large village Nagi, thence to the village Imaiitz, where the common and shorter road from Osacca falls in with the causway we had been upon till then, and on which still continuing our journey we came to the village Ogire, having first pass'd by two other villages, one on each side of the river, thence to the village Sadda, to the right of which stands the famous temple Tensin, which hath a stately stone gate Ieading into a spacious court call'd Sadda Tensin. From hence we came to the village Symminotsuja, or Symmi, thence to the village Deguts, thence to a town of that name, where we saw a tempNe caIl'd Ikosju, thence to the village Firacatta, seated at the foot of a high mountain, where we din'd. After dinner we proceeded on our journey through the villages Nangisa, Siuke, Finoje, and Kudsjuwa, opposite to which on the other side of the river stands the village Jamasakki, seated at the foot of a mountain famous for two eminent monasteries and temples built at its top. Soon after we came to the town of Jodo. To the right of Jodo, on the road, lies the town of Jawatta, beyond which are several good houses and other buildings in the ascent of a pleasant mountain, on which stands a famous Fatzman Temple We saw several Priests here, and other people going to and coming from this place. From hence to Miaco, there is one continued ridge of hills and    [ 576]    mountains, u hich runs on still filrther beyond that city. Having pass'd thro' the suburbs of Jodo, and over a bridge supported l.\- twenty wooden arches, we enter'd the town itsel, which is reaular and well built, and hath a very good castle with a water-mill on the river-side. On the other side of the town, we came to another suburb with a famous Bensaiten Temple, and thence to Fusimi, thence passing by an Inari Temple, where there was a great crowd of people, it being a holiday, we got in the evening to our Inn at Miaco, which is not far from a Songuatz Temple of the Siudosju yect. Having notify'd our arrival to the Chief Justice of Miaco, and to the Governors of this place, this evening, we were

On the 19th of March, at ten in the morning, conducted to their audience. And in the first place, we went to the palace of the Lord Chief Justice. We left our Cangos about twenty paces on this side his palace, there being a large court before it, cross which we walk'd between a file of twenty soldiers arm'd with long staffs, which they held out, and two scimeters each. Entring his palace there was a particular guard of six soldiers sitting in a small room on the left hand, thro' which we pass'd into the great guard-room, where we found upwards of forty officers and common soldiers, with two clerks, all sitting in good order. We were thence conducted into the Antichamber, where we made our compliments to the Steward of his houshold, and signify'd to him, that being upon our journey to Kubosava, we would not fail, according to custom, to pay our respects to his master, in the name of our masters at Jaccatra, and, with due submission, to offer him a small acknowledgment of their just sense and _rratitude for his good ofl:ices, consisting in a present of tent-wine and some pieces of stuffs, which lay ready in the great guard-room, on proper tables, as the custom is this country. Upon this the presents were examin'd once more by our chief Interpreter, and after some time spent in mutual compliments, an answer was return'd us, importing, that the Chief Justice was very glad of our arrival, that he would accept of our presents, and instantly admit us to his audience. After this the presents were by his Domesticks, carried into the hall of audience, and there rang'd in proper order. We follow'd soon after and were desir'd to sit down in the middle of the said hall, opposite to another room, which was laid open, the skreens being remov'd. Meanwhile the ladies appearud in a room next to that, and having consider'd us for some time thro' the grates and lattice-wmdows, they disappearad again, upon which the windows of the room, wherein they had been, were open'd, for the light to come in on that side. That moment the Lord Chief Justice enter'd the room. He walked very upright, and sate himself down at two mats and a half distance, but without bowing. Then he bid us welcome, and told us, that he was very glad of our arrival in good health and good weather, which being interpreted to us, we return'd him thanks, acquainted him with the reason of our coming, and desir'd him to accept of our small present, and to grant us the necessary passports. His answer was,    [ 577]    that our presents were very acceptable to him, and that he would give orders, that our passports should be issued out forthwith. Upon this he enquir'd after our names and age, and seem'd to be very curious and willing to enter into a further and more particular discourse with us, had it not been for the low and submissive voice of our chief Interpreter, who could hardly make himself understood, neither by the chief Justice himself, nor hls Steward, who sat very near him. Thls audience pass'd with a great deal of order and decency, when one spoke, all the rest were silent. The chief Justice sat upright, but we and our Interpreter in an humble posture, bowing our heads aImost down to the ground. His steward, having invited us to stay to dinner, went away, and we were soon after conducted from the hall of audience back into the antichamber, where they presented us with tobacco, and a double set of pipes and other instruments for smoaking of a curious and rare make, and likewise with tea, as before the audience, with two large dishes of figs, sweetmeats and some other stables laid on varnish'd boards, according to the custom of the country. Mean while we were thus entertain'd, he chief Justice his steward came in with two passports, whiCh he deliver'd into the hands of our Captain, who receiv'd them with a low bow, holding them up to his forehead in token of respect, and then gave them to the chief Interpreter to keep them. This done we made our Compliments to the steward and took our leave. The steward went with us beyond the great guard room, where we renew'd our compliments, and took our leave a second time. He was a fat, tall, lusty man, with a large head, an agreeable countenance, a roundish face, with a middle siz'd nose, and seem'd to be thirty odd years of age. He walk'd with some difficulty, as if something had ail'd him, but otherwise shew'd a great deal of freedom and good humour in his behaviour. I have been the more particular in my account of the audience we had of the chief Justice of Miaco, because in our first journey to court we could not see him, he being then at court himself. I have mention'd elsewhere the importance and greatness of his office.

From the chief Justice we went to the second Governor, an austere old man. However he put on a smiling countenance, tho' it did not seem in the least natural to him. We lost no time waiting for him. For as soon as we had been presented with tea and tobacco, we were conducted to his apartment, where we found him sitting at four mats distance from the place we were desir'd to take. He bid us welcome and receiv'd our compliments seemingly with some sort of satisfaction, after they had been repeated to him by his steward, because of the low voice of our Interpreter. We were then conducted back to the waiting room, where we took our leave of his steward, and having pass'd through the great guard room and court, we stept into our Cangos again. His steward was a fat man, about 56, or 60 years of    [ 578]    age, of an agreeable Countenances and not ill shap'd. From thence we were carried to the house of the other Governor, who according to his former custom made us wait for him a long while After the audience, which pass'd in the same manner, as did the last year, with mutual compliments and civilities) though without asking after any of our things, we were treated with tea, tobacco and sweetmeats. He had tavo stewards, both gentIemen of a submissive and modest behaviour, and about fifty years of age. After the audience was over, we were shew'd a Thermometer, which had been presented by the Dutch about thirty years ago the nature and use of which I was desir'd to explain to the company.

On the 20th of March, we set out for Miaco, and took our leave in the suburbs, after we had pass'd over the great bridge. Thence continuing our journey we came to the village Finookatogge, situate between mountains two miles from Ootz, thence to the long and rich village Jabunosta, where there grows extraordinary good Tobacco, and fine Bambou's in great plenty, thence to the village Jakotsiera, which is almost contiguous to Jabunosta. On the left hand of Jakotsiera, about a mile of, is the famous monastery Morotamiosin, with a stately gate on the road Ieading to it, and a Quanwon temple with the famous large golden Idol of Dsiso, kept in a sexangular shrine. Not far from thence lay the village Jwanotsieja, from which we came to the village Oiwaki, situate at the foot of a high mountain, which it hath to the right. Thence passing through some more villages, and leaving others on our right and left, we came an hour before sunset to our Inn in the town of Ootz. Much rain and snow fell this day.

On the 21st of March, we set out from our Inn at five of the clock in the morning, and first came to a temple of Fatzman, thence through the gates to the town and castle of Dsiedsi, thence to some more temples, among which was another of Fatzman, thence passing through the following places, Katangiwara, Sinde, Satznanosi, all villages, Kusatz, a large borough, the village Tibora, which is almost contiguous to Menoke, where they sell the bitter powder, I have spoke of in my first journal, and some other medicines, we came to Issibe, a large village, or borough, where we din'd. After dinner, we pass'd through the following villages Koosibukuro, Firamatz, Fari, Natsume, Jostsinakavara, Tangava, Idsumimura remarkable for its length, and Kitawaki, to the town of Minakuts, thence further through the villages Dsinso, Kosatto, Imasuku, Ono, Tokuwara, Moijenu and Matzno Omura, to the town of Tsutsijamma, where we arriv'd at six in the evening, and lay that night. At Moijenu they sell a substance, which they call Amakas, it looks not unlike clay, is pretty hard to the touch, and smells exactly like the thin cakes made of flower and honey.   [ 579]    On the 22d of March, we set out betimes in the morning, in order to be carried in Cangos over the mountains of Sakanosta. Having past the worst of these mountains, we took fresh horses, and riding through a pleasant, agreeable valley, we came to the town of Sekidsiso, where they make the best matches of Bambous. There are several stately temples and fine inns at this place, but it seems little care is taken of the education of their youth. Sekidsiso, where we din'd, consists of one street half a mile long. After dinner we set out again and came to the following places, as first upon the road to Ise, then to the river Sekigava, thence to the villages Ootzbara, Nosiri, Nomura, the town of Kamevi, or Camme Jamma, the suburb of Natijamatz, the village Simmatz, the open boroughs Sioono and Isijakus, the villages Odani, Kodani, Simitzdaki, Tsumatzukimura, where there is a fine temple, Umenegawa, Ongosomura, Oywakes Tomari, Tsinangamura, Aka fori, and Fammada, and lastly in the evening to our Inn in Jokaitz. We had another instance at this place, both of the affection and good manners of our chief Interpreter, who cried aloud to the Isje pilgrims, not to pollute themselves, and their holy undertaking, by approaching too near our unclean persons. On the 23d of March, we set out by break of day, and about nine of the clock came to Quano, passing through the several places and villages set down in the map. The wind blowing very hard, and the continual rain, made it impossible for us to proceed any further on our Journey, either by water or land. So we staid that day, and the following night at Kwano, which is the residence of Matzandairo Jetsjuno Cami.

On the 24th of March, the wind being favourable, we took three boats for our passage from Kwano to Mia, where we staid but a little while, and in order to make good what we lost the day before, set out immediatelv after dinner, and in the evening came to the town of Okasakki, where we supp'd, and instantly continued our journey as far as Akasakka, where we arriv'd at eleven a clock at night. The fatigues of the day, particularlv the additional journey from Okasakki to Akasakka had so rais'd our stomach, that we thought we could well digest another supper, which we took accordingly.

. On the 25th of March, we set out from Akasakka at six a clock in the morning. When came to Array, the commanding officer of the Tmperial guard sent us only, according to custom, a present of some roots, along with his excuses, that he could send us no fish, because that day was one of the mourning days sacred to the memory of the late Emperor, on which it is forbid to kill or eat any thing that had been living. We staid at Array not above a quarter of an hour, and the wind being favourable took boat over that gulph, and arriv'd in the evening at Fammamatz.   [ 580]    On the 26th of March, we set out at six a clock in the morning, din'd at Fukuroi, and after dinner continued our journey for a while on horseback, then in Cangos as far as Simada, where we arriv'd by moon-shine, at seven a clock at night, having just an hour before happily passvd the large river Ojingava, and three more in that day's journey.

On the 27th of March, we set out from Simada, and went on horseback to Okabe, thence in Cangos to Mariko,

where we din'd, thence through Ftsju to Jeseri, where we lay this night.

On the 28th of March, we set out before break of day, din'd at Josijwara, and lay at Missima.

On the 29th of March, we set out again in Cangos early in the morning, and in very bad weather, and worse roads, came to Fakone. This place is so damp and unhealthy, that strangers cannot live there without great prejudice to their health. We were now as it were suspended in the midst of clouds, the air was so dusky and heavy, and there being no hopes of better weather, we scre obliged to set out on our journey after dinner, being to lie at Odowara.

On the 30th of March, we set out in tolerable good sveather, which held all day long, and at eight a clock at night we came to Kanagava. Osawa Ukiosama, the Emperor's Ambassador to the Mikaddo, lodg'd then at our Inn at this place. The Secular Monarch sends once a year an Ambassador with presents to the Ecclesiastical Hereditary Emperor. This man was then on his return to court, and had been just before us, a great part of our journey, which gave us not a little trouble, and oblig'd us often to leave our ordinary Inns, and to go to other places, as we had for instance that very day been forc'd to cline at an obscure village. There are three men at court, out of whom the Emperor generally chuses one to go on this embassy.

On the 31st of March, we set out at five of the clock in the morning, and having refresh'd our selves a little at

 Sinagava, we arriv'd about noon in good health at our Inn in Jedo. Our Joriki enter'd the capital for this time an his Norimon, which formerly he was oblig'd to do on horsebacks as I took notice he did in our first journey to Court he had, doubtless, leave granted him so to do by 'he Governors of Nagasaki, in order to shew us, that he was a person of no less consideration and authority, than our Ambassador, who always made his entry in his Norimon. Assoon as we came to Jedo, the two Governors of that city Tonnemon and Siube sent their Joriki's to compliment us on our arrival. Our chief Interpreter caus'd himself to be carry'd forthvith to the Imperial tommissioners, and the then commanding Governor Sjube (who was to forward our audience) in order to notify our arrival to them in due form. They promis'd, that notice should be given thereof to the counsellors of state, and that, if possible, we should be admitted to an audience upon the 28th of April next.

On the first of April, we receiv'd the compliments on our arrival from Sino Cami, and the Imperial Commissioners. For some days following, we were busy with taking out the presents for the Emperor, cleaning the    [ 581]    looking-glasses, lacker'd-ware and other things, drawing the tent-wine into bottles, and sorting what other presents we had to make to several ministers of state and other persons at court. All this was done in presence of Siubosama, our Bugjo, or commander of our train, and of our chief Interpreter. Nor durst we presume to offer to lend them a helping hand, for all the business was to be done by Japanese workmen, according to the custom of the country, and all we knew of it, was, that we paid excessive dear for their trouble.

On the 7th of April, at night, and the next day, there was a very violent storm out of the West, which occasion'd a great frost, and fill'd the minds of the inhabitants of this capital with such a terror of fire, that every one was upon his guard, and in order to a quick escape, in case of such an accident, they wore breeches over their long gowns. Our Portmantles were again pack'd up, and the fire-men went the round all night long, visiting all the streets and corners of the town, and making a dreadful noise with their instruments and long staffs, hung with Iron rings.

On the 8th of April, Tonnemon's son sent to return us his thanks for the compliment we had made him on occasion of the delivery of his wife, who was brought to bed of her second child, and first son.

The same day we were told, that about a year ago the Emperor had built a Mia, or Temple, in honour and memory of the great Chinese Philosopher and Politician Koosi, who wrote a treatise upon the art of governing, and that this year he had built another, which he went to see on the very day of our arrival. The day before, the Emperor being in company with some of his chief ministers, and counsellors of state, the conversation happen'd to fall on the art of governing, on which occasion that Prince made an excellent discourse on this subject, to the no small surprize of those who heard him. This Monarch din'd to day with Jenogi Same, one of the youngest extraordinary Counsellors of State, who lives lvithout the castle. We were told, that the Emperor, when he dines abroad, is serv'd at table by young women.

About eight days ago, our servants brought a native of Nagasaki, who they said, had work'd for us, to me to dress him. As he was walking along the streets, a great dog catch'd hold of him, and bit him cruelly in the calf of his leg. Upon our asking him whether or no he had reveng'd himself on the dog ? he return'd in answer, That he was not such a fool as to run the hazard of his life into the bargain: For, said he, we are forbid under severe penalties to kill any tame cock, or hen: and to kill a dog, for which animal the Emperor hath a peculiar esteem, is a capital crime. If a dog, or other tame animal dies, the housekeepers must notify their death to the Ottona, or the commanding officer of the street, as well as the death of their domesticks.   [ 582]    On the 16th of April at night, a whole street burnt down a mile from our Inn to N. E. The evening before another fire broke out by S. W. behind the castle.

On the 28th of April early in the morning we felt an earthquake) which lasted near a minute.

On the 20th of April before evening we receiv'd orders to prepare our selves for our audience against the next day.

On the 20th of April, tho' it continu'd to rain pretty hard, as it had done for two days before, yet we were oblig'd at eight a clock that morning to repair to the castle, which we did on horseback, attended by the Bugjos of the three Governors of Nagasaki. Passing through the second castle we came to the third, and found Siubo sama waiting for us in the great guard room. We staid there our selves till half an hour after ten, mean while the members of the council of state met in the castle, and we chang'd our wet stockings and shoes for clean ones From thence we were conducted into the palace, where we staid till noon. Our Captain, as they call him, went first alone to make his submission to the Emperor, according to the fashion of the country, and in the companyzs name to offer the presents. He return'd soon after to us in the waiting room, and that moment we were by Siubosama conducted to audience and first going round the hall, where the Emperor had given audience to our Ambassador, and receiv'd the presents, which still stood there, thence passing through several long Galleries, all gilt and curiously adorn'd, we came into a long room, where they desir'd us to stay till we could be admitted into the Emperor's presence, which they said should be done immediately. We found the Imperial Commissioners and other great men walking there and ten or twelve young noblemen of great quality sitting. But lest the sitting down so long and so often should tire us at last, we were conducted back into an adjoininz gallery, where we could have the liberty to walk about, tor which purpose also the shutters of some windows were laid open for us, to have a view into the garden. Mean whilewe staid in this gallery, several young gentlemen of great quality came to see and salute us, and the commissioners shew'd us a gold ring, wherein was set a loadstone, with the names of'the Jetta, or twelve celestial signs engrav'd round it. They shew'd us likewise an European coat of arms, and some other things. But just as we were examining them, and now a going to explain them according to their desire, the Emperor sent for us in. So we were conducted through a gallery to our left, where we found eighteen Gentlemen of the Emperor's bedchamber sitting, clad in their garments of ceremony, under which they wore their ordinary gowns, then passing by twenty other gentlemen sitting in one continu'd row we enter'd the hall of audience, where we found the six councellors of state Kitting on our left as we came in, and on our right some more    [ 583]    gentlemen of the Emperor's bedchamber of a higher rank, sitting in a gallery. The Emperor and two Ladies sat behind the grated skreens on our right, and Bingosama, President of the council of state opposite to us in a room by himself. Soon after we came in, and had after the usual obeysances seated our selves on the place assign'd us, Bingosama welcom'd us in the Emperor's name, and then desir'd us to sit upright, to take of our cloaks, to tell him our names and age, to stand up, to walk, to turn about, to dance, to sing songs, to compliment one another, to be angry, to invite one another to dinner, to converse one with another, to discourse in a familiar way like father and son, to shew how two friends, or man and wife, compliment or take leave of one another, to play with children, to carry them about upon our arms, and to do many more things of the like nature. Moreover we were ask'd many questions serious and comical; as for instance, what profession I was of, whether I ever cur'd any considerable distempers, to which I answer'd, yes, I had, but not at Nagasaki, where we were kept no better than prisoners? what houses we had? whether our customs were different from theirs? how we buried our people, and when? to which was answer'd, that we bury'd them always in the day time. How our Prince did? what sort of a man he was ? whether the Governor-general at Batavia was superior to him, or whither he was under his command ? whither we had prayers and images like the Portuguese, which was answer'd in the negative. Whether Holland, and other countries abroad, were subject to Earthquakes and Storms of Thunder and Lightning as well as Japan ? whether there be houses set on fire, and people kill'd by Lightning in European countries. Then again we were

commanded to read, and to dance, separately and jointly

and I to tell them the names of some European plaisters

upon which I mention'd some of the hardest I couId

rernember. The Ambassador was ask'd concerning his

children, how many he had, what their names were, as

also how far distant Holland was from Nagasaki. In the

mean while some shutters were open'd on the left hand

by order of the Emperor, probably to cool the roon

We were then further commanded to put on our hats

to walk about the room discoursing with one another

to take off our perukes. I had several opportunities of

seeing the Empress, and heard the Emperor say in

Japanese, how sharp we look'd at the room, where he was

and that sure we could not but know, or at least suspect

him to be there, upon which he remov'd and went to the

ladies, which sate just before us. Then I was desired

once more to come nearer the skreen, and to take off

my peruke. Then they made us jump, dance, play gambols

and walk together, and upon that they ask'd the Ambassa

dor and me how old we guess'd Bingo to be, he answer'd

50, and I 45, which made them laugh. Then they made

us kiss one another, like man and wife, which the ladies

particularly shew'd by their laughter to be well pleas'd

with. They desir'd us further to shew them what sorts

    [ 584]    of compliments it was customary in Europe to make to

inferiors, to ladies, to superiors, to princes, to kings.

After this they begg'd another song of me, and were

satisfyvd with two, which the company seem'd to like

very well. After this farce was over, we were order'd

to take off our cloaks, to come near the skreen one by

one, and to take our leave in the very same manner we

would take it of a Prince, or King in Europe, which being

done, seemingly to their satisfaction, we went away. It

was aIready four in the afternoon, when we left the hall

of audience, after having been exercis'd after this manner

for two hours and a half. We had been introduced, and

were conducted back by the two Imperial Commissioners

and Siube, and immediately repair'd to Bingo's house, who rc,Cix 'd us with uncommon civility. At last in the even,' we got home.

On the 22d of April, we went to make a visit to the new

 lord of the temple, as they call them, who was a son of the prince of Firando. His house was full of spectators. But his steward, who receiv'd us, was one of the greatest coxcombs we had as yet met with in the country, a man entirely unacquainted with compliments, and an utter stranger even to common civility. His ill manners and unpoliteness were made good in some measure by the complaisant carriage of the ladies, who treated us with sweetmeats. He examin'd with some attention our hats and swords, and then said, let them sing once, which he did to please his master. However, we did not all think fit to comply with commands made with such an ill grace. From thence we repair'd to the castle to salute the two Governors. Upon the great place before the castle, we took notice that there was a secretary's office, wherein besides the several boxes and cabinets fill'd with papers, were hung up all sorts of arms. At the first Governor's we were only presented with tea, nor were there any ladies present at the audience, we had of him. We then made two more visits, and last of all we went to the two Imperial Commissioners, who receiv'd us both with great civility, and treated us very splendidly, so that we did not at all scruple at their desire to entertain the company with a song. At the first commissioners the treat consisted of the following things. 1. Tea. 2. Tobacco, with the whole set of instruments for smoaking. 3. Philosophical, or white syrup. 4. A piece of Steenbrassen, a very scarce fish, boil'd, in a brown sauce. 5. Another dish of fish dress'd with bean-flower and spices. 6. Cakes of Eggs roll'd together. 7. Fried fish, which were presented us on green skewers of Bambous. 8. Lemon peels with sugar. After every one of these dishes, they made us drink a dish of Sacki, as good as ever I tasted. We were likewise presented twice, in dram cups, with wine made of plums, a very pleasant and agreeable liquor. In short, the whole treat was equally various and good. Only we had nothing made of rice. Last of all we were again presented with a dish of tea, and so we took our Ieave, having staid an hour and a half.   [ 585]    At the second Commissioners we were treated, after tea and tobacco, with the following things. 1. Two long slices of Mange dipt into a brown sup, or sauce, with some ginger. 2. Hard eggs. 3. Four common fish fried and brought on skewers of Bambou's. 4. The stomachs of carps salt in a brown sauce. 5. Two small slices of a goose roasted, and warm, presented in unglaz'd earthen dishes. Good liquor was drank about plentifully all the while, and the Commissioners his surgeon, who was to treat us, did not miss to take his full dose. Just before us, behind a skreen, at about two mats distance, and a half, sat a gentleman unknown to us, sometimes also ladies appear'd on that side. But the greatest throng of women was on the left in a gallery. The audience being over, we went streight home about an hour and a half before it was dark.

On the 23d of April we receiv'd the compliments of thanks from the gentlemen, we had been to visit the day before, and in the afternoon we had orders given us to prepare ourselves for our audience of leave against the next day. We did not go this day to salute the Governors according to custom, by reason of its being one of the mourning days for the death of JeJas the now reigning Emperor's Father, on which days it would be thought a want of respect for the Emperor to treat any body. He lies buried in Gosio, a temple behind Atago, about 2 miles from our Inn. The burial place of the Emperors his predecessors is at Nikko, three days journey from Jedo. My servant, a very intelligent young man in the affairs of his country, told me, that the temple where Jejas is buried, is cover'd with golden Obanis instead of tiles, and that his tomb is enclosed with black posts. He was to see me this day, because he was sent to us by a man of quality, our servants being forbid to see us all the while we stay at Jedo.

On the 24th of April, we went to court on horseback, lt seven a clock in the morning, attended, as before, by three Joriki's of the Governors of Nagasaki.

We staid in the Fiakninban, or guard of hundred men, till we were conducted into the palace upon orders given by the Governors and Commissioners. Having staid about half an hour in the waiting-room, the captain was call'd in before the counsellors oiT state, who order'd one of the Commissioners to read the usual orders to him, which they do by turns, the orders were among the rest, and chiefly to the following effect, that we should not molest any ships, or boats, of the Chinese or Liqueans, nor bring any Portuguese or Priests into the country on board our ships, and that upon these conditions we should be allow'd a free commerce. The orders being read, the Ambassador was presented with thirty gowns laid on three present boards, each of which was somewhat longer than two mats, and a letter of fortune, as they call it, as a mark of the Emperor's favour, upon which he crept on all four to receive the same, and in token of respect, held a piece of the gowns    [ 586]    over his head. And so return'd to us, but the gowns along with the boards were carried out of the castle to the Fiakninban, where they were pack'd up in bundles. After the captain came back, we were desir'd by the Governor to stay at dinner, which should be provided for us by order from the Emperor. Having therefore waited about half an hour, we were conducted into another room, where two fellows with their heads shav'd close, and clad in their garments of ceremony receiv'd us. We guess'd them to be some of the chief officers of the Emperor's kitchen.

He that hath the direction of the kitchen, is call'd Osobaboos; he sits next to the Emperor, when he dines, and tastes all the dishes that come upon the table. The Interpreters and Japanese that attend us, were carried into another room to dine by themselves. We had scarce seated ourselves, when several young noblemen came into the room to see us, and to discourse with us. A small table made of shavings of Matzwood, put together with wooden nails, was set before each of us, on which lay five fresh hot white cakes call'd Amakas, as tough as glue and two hollow breads of two spans in circumference made of flower and sugar with the seeds of the Sesamum Album spread about them. A small porcellane cup stood by the bread with some small bits of pickel'd Salmon in a brown sauce, which was not quite so strong, but somewhat sweeter, than what they call Soje. By the cup were laid two wooden chop-sticks according to the fashion of the Chinese and Japanese. We tasted a little of these dishes only for civilities sake, for we had taken care to provide ourselves with a good substantial breakfast, before we went out in the morning, and besides had been treated in the guardroom with fresh Manges, and sweet brown cakes of sugar and bean-flower. They desir'd us very civilly to eat more, and ask'd us, whither we would drink any tea, and being told, that we would, the abovemention'd kitchen officer sent for it up. But upon trial we found it to be little better than meer warm water, besides that the brown varnish'd dishes, wherein it was presented to us, and which they call Miseraties, look'd very poor and sorry. Meanwhile we were eating our dinner, the spectators busied themselves viewing and examining our hats, swords, dress, and what we had about us. After dinner, which was so far from answering the majesty and magnificence of so powerful a Monarch, as the Emperor og Japan is, that we could not have had a worse at any private man's house, we were conducted back to the waiting-room, and having waited there for about an hour, or upwards, we were by the Governor conducted through several passages and galleries, which we could not remember to have seen before, towards the hall of audience, and desirnd to sit down in the same room where we had been before our last audience, or to walk about in the gallery next to it. Some shutters being now open'd, which had been shut in our last audience, and some other apartments being laid Open, the disposition of    [ 587]    the court and hall of audience uras thereby so alter'd, that it look'd quite different from Xvhat it was before. We took notice, that there was scarce room without some gentlemen or other sitting in it. In a large room, and two galleries leading to it, were ung up several Tmperial orders, on large boards, concisting each of five rows of characters, only with seven characters in each row. These we had not seen in our first audience, perhaps because then they were not yet hung up, or because they had now carried us another way. Meanwhile we were waiting in this room, till we should be call'd in, which might be about half an hour, a Priest of about thirty years of age, clad in white and blue silk, with a bag of the same colour, came into the room, and with great affectation of shame and modesty enquir'd after our names and age, which had been done before by most of the spectators then present. We saw likewise another Priest clad in orangecolour'd silk, but he staid in the gallery and did not come into the room. As we were waiting, three washing basons in appearance of silver were carried into the inner Imperial apartments. Soon after the same basons, and a black japan'd cover'd table, on which stood several dishes and plates, were brought out again, whence we concluded, that they had been at dinner there. Upon this we were forthwith conducted into a side gallery next to the Imperial apartments, and having staid there but a little while, one of the extraordinary Counsellors of State, and the two Commissioners, came to introduce us, and made us sit down near the grated skreen, on the very same place we had been at in our former audiences. The two commissioners did not enter the hall of audience. The Emperor sate behind the middle skreen on a place, which was somewhat raiszd above the level of the room. Bingo sate in the middle against a paper skreen, and the three ordinary and four extraordinary Counsellors of State took their usual places. Behind the grated skreen, on our right, we could discern only a Priest lurking. The place where in our first audience the Gobobasi sate, was now left empty but there were some few in the galler,v. Five and twentj sate behind us in one row, and eighteen more in the same row, who were out of sight of the Emperor, tho' waiting for his commands. The other side of the hall was lin'd with the same number of people, and in the same order. After the audience begun, more came in, so that all the avenues were pretty much crowded. We made our obeisances first according to the fashion of the Japanese, but were soon commanded to come nearer the skreens, and to do it after the European manner. The obeisances made, I was order'd to sing a song. I chose one, which I had formerly compos'd for a lady, for whom I had a peculiar esteem, and as at the latter end I extolled her beauty and other excellent qualities, in a poetical stile, above the value of hundred thousands and millions of pieces of money, I was ask'd, by order of the Emperor, what the meaning of it was: upon which I return'd in answer, it was nothing but a sincere wish of mine, that heaven might bestow millions of portions of health, fortune and prosperity upon the Emperor, his fa-    [ 588]    mily and court. We were then commanded, as we had been in former audiences, to take off our cloaks, to walk about the roon, which the Ambassador likewise did, then to shew how upon occasion we complimented, or took leave of our friends, parents, or a mistress: how we scolded at one another, how we made up our differences and got friends again. Upon this a priest was commanded to come in, who had a fresh ulcer upon one of his shins, of no consequence, only with a little trifling inflammation about it: he had laid on a plaister spread thick upon European cloth. I was order'd to feel his pulse, and to give my opinion about his case, both which I did accordingly, and judg'd him to be a healthy strong fellow, and his case such, as was not like to have any dangerous consequences, and would easily heal by keeping only the plaister on. I advis'd him however, not to be too familiar with Sacki Beer, pretending to guess by his wound, what I did upon much better ground by his red face and nose, that he was pretty much given to drinking, which made the Emperor and whole court laugh. Then two of the Emperor's surgeons were sent for in, whom Bingo call'd himself, they being in one of the inner Imperial apartments. They appear'd forthwith, coming round the skreen, they were both shavid, and clad like Priests, one of them was quite blind on one eye, the other look'd but little better; otherwise they seem'd to be in pretty good health. Hearing that they were the Emperor's surgeons, I Cave them the precedency, and let them feel my pulse first, then I feel'd theirs, and judg'd them both to be in good health, the first rather of a cold constitution, and wanting sometimes a dram of brandy to raise his spirits and to quicken the motion of his blood; the second of a hotter temper, and much troubled with headach, which I could very easily perceive by his countenance. Upon this they enter'd into a discourse with me upon physical matters, and the first ask'd me, whether or no imposthumes were danaerous, at what time and in what distempers we order'd people to be let blood. He also affected to have some knowledge of our European plaisters, and mentioning the names of some which however he could not well pronounce, I set him to right in broken Japanese. This our jargon being half latin and half japanese, sounded so odly, that the Emperor ask'd what language it was, the Dutchman spoke in, upon which he was answer'd, it was a broken Japanese. This farce being also over, a table as brought in with chop sticks of wood for each of us, and plac'd just before the third mat. On each table were brought in the following victuals, dress'd after the Japanese manner.

1. Two smalI hollow loaves with Sesamus's seed thrown upon them.

2. A piece of white refin'd sugar, as it were strip'd.

3. Five candy'd Kainoki's, or kernels of the Kai-tree, which are not unlike our almonds.

4. A square flat slice of a cake.   [ 589]    5. Two cakes made of flower and honey, shap'd like a tunnel, brown and thick, but somewhat tough. They have on one side the impression of a sun, or rose, and on the other that of the Dairi Tsiap, that is, the Dairi's coat of arms, being the leaf and flower of a large tree call'd Kiri. The leaf is not unlike that of the Bardana, and the flower comes nearest to that of the Dizitalis several being set to a stalk.

6. Two square slices of a cake made of beanflower and sugar. They were of a dark reddish colour and brittle.

7. Two other slices of a rice-flower cake, yellow and tough.

8. Two slices of another cake, which was quite of another substance within, than the crust seem'd to be.

9. A large Mange, boil'd and fill'd with brown beansugar, like treacle.

Io. Two smaller Mange's of the common bigness, dress'd after the same manner.

We tasted a little of these things, and the chief Interpreter was commanded to take up the rest, for which purpose boards and white paper were brought in. The Interpreter having taken up his load, we were order'd to put on our cloaks again, to come nearer the skreen, and to take our leave one after another. This being done two Gentlemen, one of whom was the youngest extraordinary counsellor of state, conducted us out of the hall of audience, to the end of the gallery, where the Gentlemen of the fourth and fifth rank sat, eighteen of each class. They left us here with the two Commissioners and the Governor, who went with us as far as the waitingroom, where we took our leave of them, amidst the compliments and loud acclamations of the courtiers, for so favourable a reception as we had met with from his Imperial Majesty, being much beyond what ever they remember'd any body could boast of. Our Interpreter was so loaded with the quantity of victuals, that he was scarce able to follow us.

 We made no further stay in the waiting-room, but went away immedlately, saluting the Imperial guard as we went by, and being come into the third castle, we there mounted our horses again. The Governor Siube, or as he is now call'd, Tsusimano Cami, happen'd just then to be carry'd by in his Norimon, which he open'd to speak a few words with the Joriki. His retinue consisted of eight footmen, walking before his Norimon, four pages walking by the Norimon's side, a pikebearer, a white led-horse, and three porters carrying bundles on their backs. We repair'd instantly to his house, where he caus'd the shutters of his room to be laid open, and sat himself down before us, with a young gentleman, and the secretary of the younger commissioner. He receiv'd us himself, complimented us on the good reception we had met with from the Emperor, and desir'd us to be merry at dinner, which was brought in after a dish of tea, and consisted of the following dishes; boil'd fish in a very good sauce, oysters boil'd and brought in the shells, with vinegar, which 'twas intimated, that he had order'd on purpose to be provided for us, knowing it was a favourite dish with the    [ 590]

Dutch; several small slices of a roasted goose; fry'd fish, and boil'd eggs. The liquor drank between the dishes was also extraordinary good. After dinner they desir'd to see our hats, swords, tobacco pipes and watches, which were carried out of the room, for there were no ladies present at this audience, and consequently no Uta, or dance. Then two maps were brought in, one of which was without the names of the countries and places, otherwise well enough made, and in all likelihood copied after an European map. The other was a map of the whole world, of their own malding, in an oval form, and mark'd with the Japanese Kattakanna characters. I took this opportunity to observe, after what manner they had represented the countries to the North of Japan, which I found to be as follows. Beyond Japan, opposite to the two great Northern Promontories of the province Osju, was the Island Jesogasima, and beyond that Island a country twice as big in proportion as China, divided into several provinces, reaching about one third of its bigness beyond the artick circle towards the pole, and running a good deal farther East than the Eastern coasts of Japan: it had a large gulf on the Eastern shore opposite to America, and was very near of a square figure There was but one passage between this country and the continent of America, in which lay a small Island, and beyond that, further North, another long Island, nearly reaching with its two extremities the two continents, to wit, that of Jeso to the West, and that of America to the East, and after this manner shutting, as it were, the passage to the North. Much after the same manner all the unknown countries about the Antarctick Pole were represented as Islands. From Tsusimano Cami's we went to Gensejmon Sino Cami, where we were likewise civilly treated in presence of several strangers, who, tho' unknown to us, yet affected a great familiarity. Among the rest were Siube's and Gensejmon's brothers, one of whom had a son with fore legs, and the other a brother with pimples in his face, for both which distempers they ask'd my advice. The ladies were crowded up behind skreens in a light room, for whose diversion we sung and danc'd. At Tonnemon's, whom we visited last, every thing was done, as the preceding year, with the utmost splendour and magnificence, so that we did not in the least scruple, in return for so much civility, to entertain the company with singing and dancing to the best of our abilities. Thus at last we got home a little after sunset, as glad of having got over that day's work, as we were pleas'd with the favourable reception we had met with every where.

This afternoon, before we got home, several of the ordinary counsellors of state, and one of the Governors sent their gowns, some of which were left with our Joriki, but others would stay till our return, to deliver them to our Ambassador in person. Several also brought a present for our chief Interpreter and the Landlord's son, by whom they were introduc'd to us. The reception of these gowns, when made by our Ambassador in person, is done with the following ceremonies. Some    [ 591]    Kuli's march before carrying the gowns in boxes, one carries the board or table, on which the gowns are to be laid, with a letter of fortune, as they call it, being some flat strings twisted together at one end, and wound up in a paper, which is tied about with an unequal number of pairs of silk or paper strings, as for instance 3, 5, 7, 11, &c. of different colours, sometimes gilt or silver colour'd. Then the person, who is to present the gowns, being commonly the gentlemen's steward, that sends them, is by our Joriki introduced into the Ambassador's apartment, in presence of his own retinue, our landlords and interpreters, and seating himself over against the Ambassador, at a proper distance, makes the following compliment. N. N. My Master sends me to congratulate you on your having had your audience, and your audience of leave, and good weather, which is Medithe (good luck): Your presents were very acceptable to him, and he desires vou would accept in return of these few gowns. At the same time he delivers to the Interpreter, who gives it to the Ambassador, a large sheet of paper, on which is writ, in large characters, the number of gowns sent, and sometimes also what colours they are of. The captain, in token of respect, holds the sheet of paper over his head, the persons then present in the room all in a profound silence, some sitting, some kneeling, and so returns him with a bow the following compliment. I give N. N. your Master my most humble thanks, for his assistance in procuring us a quick and favourable audience, and intreat him farther to continue his favours to the Dutch I thank him also for his valuable present, and will not fail to acquaint my masters of Batavia therewith. The mutual compliments being over, tobacco, and the whole set of instruments for smoaking, and a dish of tea is brought in, after that distill'd liquors, with a Table on which are laid five silver plates, with sweet-meats. This table is plac'd before the person that brought the present, and he is civilly desir'd to taste of the Dutch liquors distill'd at Batavia, and to regard not the mean ness of the things offer'd him, but the sincerity and good will, with which they were offer'd. Then a small dram glass is fill'd with tent-wine, which the Japanese call Sinti, which, according to the fashion of the Japanese, he takes with both hands, holds it up to his mouth, and, with seeming eagerness, drinks it out to the last drop at two or three gulps, then holding the glass over the tobacco, or the empty space between the mats, to let it drop out clean, and wiping the bottom on the outside with his thumb, or a bit of paper, he returns it to the Ambassador, who pledges him in the same liquor, and after the same manner. He pledges the Ambassador again, and with the same ceremonies returns it to the Joriki, who drinks to another, and so it goes round. After this manner several sorts of liquors are drank about, till every one hath tasted of them, and commended them as Miseraaties. Last of all the glass is return'd again to the Arnbassador, who drinks only a little, and then orders the liquors to be carried away. The landlord in the mean time puts up the sweet-meats in paper, ties it about with silkstrings, and gives it to one of his servants. Then the gentleman takes his,    [ 592]    leave, thanking for all the civility shew'd him, and particularly for the excellent Miseraatie liquors. The Ambassador once more desires him to assure his master of his sincere respects, and unfeign'd thanks for his favour and assistance. The Joriki also makes a compliment for himself, much to the same effect. Then the gentleman is conducted out of the room, where, with mutual compliments and bowing, he takes his leave a second time.

On the 26th of April, we had ten fine gowns sent us by Bingo, five as good as any wove with flowers, by the young Prince of Firando, who was lately made one of the Lords of the Temple, in the room of him, who is now Lord Chief Justice of Miaco, and a couple of sorry ones by the second Governor of Jedo, who hath the inspection of all criminal affairs and executions in this capital. The other Governor had sent us the same number, and full as bad the day before. The number of gowns we receiv'd, was thirty from the Emperor, ten from Bingo, and so many from each of the four ordinary Counsellors of State, six from each of the four extraordinary Counsellors of State, five from each of the three Lords of the Temples, two from each of the two Governors of Jedo, in all 123, thirty of which, being those given by the Emperor, belong to the company, and all the rest to the Ambassador. All this business was over by two in the afternoon.

On the 26th of April, we were busy with packing up our baggage, hiring a sufficient number of Kuli's, or Porters, and fifteen horses for our journey. This morning we felt an Earthquake, the shocks were violent, but slow, that one might tell forty between each: after midnight it return'd with more violence.

 

Chap. XV. Of our second Journey from Jedo to Nagasaki.

On the 27th of April, soon after break of day, we set out on our journey from Jedo to Nagasaki, and about nine that morning came to that end of the town, where the posts for proclamations and publick orders are put up. From thence we came to the suburbs of Sinagawa, through which runs a pretty large river, which loses itself hard by into the gulph of Jedo, after having first recciv'd a smaller one. A little further, not far from the place of execution, are the coasts and village of Susunomori, famous for fishing of oysters, which we saw in plenty on the shores, as we went by. At the entry of this village to the right is a famous Fatzman temple, where they keep    [ 593]    the stone Sufunotz, being a smooth black free-stone, plac'd on a small shelf of Bambous rais'd about two foot from the floor in the middle of the temple. On the upper side of the temple was hung up a scimeter and the pictures of some horses, with some ornaments of paper, cut after the manner of chains. What other things the temple was adorn'd with) we could not well distinguish. About one in the afternoon we came to Kawasaki, din'd there, and after dinner went further, as far as Kanagava, where we got at four in the afternoon, and stay'd that night through the caprice of our Interpreters, who pretended it was impossible to go on, all the Inns and lodgings being bespoke for the Prince of Kijnokuni and his retinue.

On the 28th of April, we set out from Kanagawa at five a clock in the morning, and came to the long village Fodogai or Semmatz, consisting of four or five hundred houses, having first pass'd over a bridge, which was laid over a large river, on which there were then great numbers of boats and barges laden with wood. From Semmatz we came to the village Kasiuwo, where we took notice both to the right and left side of the road of square stones with Idols standing upon them. The next place we came to was Totska, a large village of about 300 houses, seated on a considerable river, over which is laid a fine wooden bridge. We then came to the village Farasiku, and the borough Fudsisava, situate on a river of that name, which hath also a fine wooden bridge laid over it. Here we again took notice of some Idols of stone standing on both sides of the road. Whilst we were at this place, the Prince of Kijnokuni pass'd by. We counted fourscore led horses, and upwards of fifty Norimons among his retinue, upwards of an hundred common pikes, six and thirty pikes with bushes, feathers and horse-tails, thirty to forty men carrying bows and arrows, besides those, who were as yet in the houses, and whom for that reason we could not see, and upwards of thirty boxes and large trunks with the Imperial and other Tsiaps, or coats of arms, gilt. From the borough of Fudsisava, we came to the village Jotsuja, at one extremity of which we took notice on the road of an Idol call'd Fudo sitting, with red, or copper colour'd hair, and a long gown. It had something unknown laid on one shoulder, a red flame behind, the right foot resting on a stone, the left hanging down, in the right hand, which rested on the knee, a hook and a large knife, or scimeter, and in the left, which it held up a double garland. Thence we came to Jawata, where there is a Fatzman temple, and soon after to the village Firatzka, at the etremity of which is a bridge 46 mats long, leading to the village Koorei, which lies on the other side of the river, and through which we pass'd in our way to the village Oiso where we din'd. We set out again after dinner, and travelling between a wood on our left, and pleasant fruitful fields on our right, we came to the village Oiso, and thence to the following places, the village Sijwomi, the village Medsawa, where there are two bridges, one near ten, and    [ 594]    another from fifty to sixty mats long, the two villages Mejingawa situate upon the coasts, the village Kodsiu, which hath a bridge eighteen mats long, the fine village Sakava, the village Sanofara, and last of all the town of Odowara, being the residence of Cangosama, one of the Counsellors of state. This town is enclosed with ditches, walls and gates, and hath a fine castle, where that lord resides. I counted between seven and eight hundred houses from the entry of this town to our Inn, whither we got at six in the evening, and staid that night.

On the 29th of April, we set out in Cangos by break of day, and pass'd through the following places, the village Katama, the village Iriuda, where there is a famous temple call'd Tsio tai si, with a large inscription in golden characters over the Tsiotorisan or gate, the village Jamasaki, not far from which we pass'd over a bridge, and then came to the two villages Jemotto, at the entry of which is a Sorinsi, or Forinsi temple. Opposite to this village to the right as we came up on the other side of a river are some villages and a.warm bath. Thence we came through the villages Kawabatta, Hatta, Kasinoki, Moto Fakone, and Fakone Gongin, which, as I took notice in my first journal is famous for the neighbourhood of several small temples, where they sell indulgences for the relief of dead children, which are believ'd to be con fin'd in the neighbouring lake, as in their purgatory About eleven we enter'd the town of Fakone itself, where we din'd, and were told, that the lake, on which it lies arose in an earthquake. We set out again at noon, and came through the villages Jamanaka, Sassawara, Midsija Skabara, Fatznegafarra, and Kawaragai, where there is a bridge twenty mats long to the town of Missima, which consists of about 6So houses besides the suburbs, and a large place three hundred paces long and an hundred broad, on which stood formerly a temple, which was burnt down not long ago. This place was enclosed with a wall and trees, and the place in the temple, on which the Idol stood, was rail'd in with Bambous, where they hung up several papers. At the upper end there was a small temple built in a bush, next to which stood a black wooden horse A shallow pond was not far from it, wherein they kept tame eels and other fish. From Missima passing through several villages almost contiguous to each other, we came to the village Nanga, at the extremity of which is a Fatzman temple, and another temple not far from it, with a bridge from forty five to forty nine mats long. From thence passing through several other villages, which I forbear mentioning, we got about six a clock in the evening to our Inn in the town of Numadsu, and some of our retinue went without loss of time to see the large hunting kettle of Joritomo.

On the 30th of April, we set out from Missima early in the morning, and first came to a Fatzman temple. On the very same day, on which we had such a violent storm at Jedo, being the 8th of April, a fire broke out in the neighbourhood of this temple, which burnt down a considerable number of houses, some of which we found actually rebuilt, but many    [ 595]    more in ashes. Thence passing through several considerable villages, as for instance Farra, Josijwara, Fusikava and others, we din'd at Kambara After dinner we walk'd a foot for a little while, till we had pass'd the mountains. We made the villages Kansava, Tuji, Imadsikku, Okitz, and others in our way, and at half an hour after five came to the village Jeseri, wherewe lay that night. About a mile from Jeseri we were shew'd a fine temple, the situation of which was exceeding s pleasant and romantick. It lay on a mountain, and had fine staircase of sixty steps leading up to it. A cataract fell down from the mountains into a large bason or pond, which was enclos'd with trees. The mountain itself was bare and steep in some places, and planted with trees in others. We saw to day a very fine white Echinus, or sea urchin, with crooked prickles. At Jeseri they offer'd fine baskets to sale, and other works of this kind, which probably were brought thither from Abikava, or Syriga.

On the first of May, we set out from Jeseri by break of day, in order to avoid the rain, which a shipper from Jedo pretended to foretel would fall this day. We were carried in Cangos from Abikava, which is also call'd Ftsju, and Syriga, follow'd by swarms of Bikuni's, or begging nuns, and Jammabos, or mountain priests. A small wooden temple with an Idol of stone, being that of Dsisosobatz, or Utzno Dsiso stood on a hill on our right. Not far from it was another temple call'd Fanna Sorri Dsiso. We met soon after numbers of Quanwon Jammabos, beeging and ringinz of bells. I had an opportunity of seeing the Idol of Quanwon in the hands of a priest on the road, who begg'd and rung his bell f for people's charity, as well as the Jammabos. This Idol was gilt and carv'd. It had a great many arms, two of which it held over the head. These two were much larger and longer than the rest, and held each a child. It had eight little children placed round the head, six whereof formtd a sort of crown, and two others somewhat larger than the rest were over the forehead, one sitting the other standing. Probably this Idol is to represent the apparitions of Amida, who came into the world for the good of mankind at different times, and in different shapes. (A very large figure of the Idol Quanwon, taken from a Chinese original, now in possession of Sir Hans Sloane is represented in Fig. 129 whereby it appears very dis tinctly, what it carries in every hand.) We dinzd at Okabe, and were told a very melancholy accident, whic happen'd at that place on the 8th of April abovementionrd A fire breaking out in the day time, and the wind blowing very hard, it rag'd with great fury, whereupon the people returning from the fields, some found their children either actually burnt, or past all possibility of being sav'd, which melancholly sight so griev'd the parents, that out of despair many threw themselves into the flames. At four in the afternoon we came to Kanaja and staid there that night.   [ 596]    On the 2d of May, we set out in Cangos at four a clock in the morning. Near the village Sinden we were shew'd, on the road, a round stone, as big in circumference as a large hat, and call'd Jonakano Matzno Isi, because they say, it was a piece of wood turn'd into stone. It was very hard, and so heavy, that a strong man could hardly lift it up. We came soon after to the tOWIa of Nitzsaka, situate on a mountain. Not far from this town is a temple of Fatzman, and a field call'd Jomega Ta, or the Ricefield of the fine Daughter, to whose memory there is a stone monument set up in the middle of it. This field is not very large, and they say, that this girl having been order'd by her cruel mother, to break up in one day a spot of ground, one street long and broad, she dy'd on the spot, on the same place where the stone monument is now put up. Not far from hence, in the mountains to the left, are quarries of alablaster. We din'd at Midske, and were from thence carried to Fammamatz, where we arriv'd at five in the afternoon.

On the third of May, we set out from Fammamatz at five in the morning. We took boat at Majisaka, and were, in three quarters of an hour, set over to Arrae, where we staid but a little while, till our horses could be got ready. Nevertheless it cost us an Itzebo, (about n5 shillings English) for which money our Bugjo and Interpreters caus'd themselves to be handsomly treated, meanwhile they suffer'd us to fast. From Array we pass'd by several hills, curiously adorn'd by the finest incarnate and purple Tsubaki flowers, which grow there in great plenty. We din'd at Futagava After dinner we came to the village Mijumeno lselja, and thence passing thro' the suburbs of Josida, consisting of about 160 houses, we enter'd that town, which hath about 600 houses, and a large castle, adorn'd with several high towers. Having pass'd thro' the town, we came to the opposite suburbs of 240 houses, which extend as far as the large bridge Josidamatz, which is supported by 326 arches. Thence passing thro' the villages Jootsija, Koo, Goju, and some more, we came about five in the evening to our Inn in the town of Akasaka.

On the 4th of May, being Sunday, we were, by our impatient Ksodago, call'd up at two a clock in the morning, and set out half an hour after, in clear moon-shiny weather. We pass'd thro' the villages Nagasawa, Fosoodsi, or Fosoosi, where there is a famous temple and university, Jamanaka, Fusikava, Kambasaki, Seoda and Ofira, to Okasaki a town of about 700 houses. The town and castle are built on a hill, at the foot of some mountains, but the castle is separated from the town by walls and broad ditches, over which is laid a bridge 208 mats long. The town and first suburb, where the mountains end into a plain, which runs off towards the sea, have very good houses, large and commodious. From Okasaki we pass'd thro' the villages Utoo, Ojuma and Ussita, and din'd in the borough Tsiriju. Mte set out again from Tsiriju about noon, and passing thro' the villages Imogava, Ano, Ariwatsi, Naruma and Kassadira, where they shew'd us Musasisijro at a distance, we came to the suburbs and town of Mia.    [ 597]    At the entry of this town is a temple remarkable for the uncommon bulk of a wooden Idol Contain'd in it. It fills the whole temple, and hath the letft hand laid on the left knee, and the right hand on the right knee, which it holds up a little higher than the left. There is another temple in the same town avith such another Idol, but this is more particularly eminent for its antiquity, having been built, as they say, by tllat celebrated Architect Fidano Jako, in so singular a manner that all its parts being join'd together in a particular xvay it supports itself, without being supported by pillars, as other temples are. Not to repeat here what hath been said in the I3th chapter of this book, under the I2th of April, of the temple Asta, or Atzta in the same town Our Inn at Mia is very good, and hath a fine court-yard and garden behind.

On the 5th of May, we took boats at half an hour after five, the weather being good, and the wind favourable and having pass'd by Nagasima, or the Island Naga, we came about ten of the clock to the town of that name, where we din'd and were handsomly treated. The castle of Nagasima is built on the shore and hath no tower We parted from Nagasima, about eleven, and, among other places, pass'd thro' these following villages, Jasnaga, Fonda, Jawatta, Fazemura, Fadsitonka, Oiwake, and Ongoso, in some of which they sold Mange. About five in the evening we came to our Inn in the borough IsiJakus, and staid there that night.

On the 6th of May, we set out at four of the clock in the morning. The chief placces we pass'd thro' were, the vilIages Sjoono, Kumigawara, Tomida, Odamura, Seikinsi, Waddamura; the town of Simmatz, or rather suburb of the town of Nabi Jamatz, which I call'd Kammi Jamma in my first journal under the I4th of April, the village Nosiri, the borough of Seki, where there are matches sold almost at every house, and in the- neighbourhood of which is a temple of Amida, and another of Dsisoo, with a stone-bason fill'd with water before it, for the worshippers to wash their hands; the borough of Sawa, or Sawabeno Kinosta, and sometimes Sakanosita, where we din'd; the village Jamanaka, which hath a Mia; the village Tsutsi Jama, where we met great numbers of Isje Pilgrims, several more villages, which I forbear mentioning and the town of Minakutz, where we staid that night.

On the 7th of May, we left Minakutz by break of day, passing thro' the villages Kitawaki, Idsumimura, Natsume, Fari, Koosibukuro, the borough Issibe, the village Takanomura, the village Menoke, where they prepare and sell a bitter powder,which some poople drink instead of tea, and the village Tibara, we came about ten of the clock to the small town of Kusatz,where we din'd. After dinner we pass'd thro' the villages, Satznanosi, Okanotsieja, Sinde, Seta, and the town of Dsiedsi to that of Ootz, where we were forc'd to stay throw the capriciousness of our interpreters, who would go no further, tho' it was scarce past two in the afternoon.   [ 598]    On the 8th of May, we left Ootz betimes in the morning, and passing thro' the village or borough of Otlani, and the villages Jakotsieja, and Jabunosta, almost contiguous to each other, we came to a village situate at the foot of the mountain Finoo. A stone was erected near this village, on which were grav'd the words Namandabudz. Opposite to the stone two criminals hung on the cross. Both before and behind the stone, tho' at a considerable distance, and out of sight of the persons executed, sat a Priest on a sorry old carpet, with seven tablets before him sticking in the ground. The name of a dead Person was writ on each of these tablets, and over it hung a banner, with the words Namandabudz. The Priest himself had his head cover'd with a large varnish'd summer-hat, and a board standing before him on which lay a bell inversid, which he beat from time to time with a hammer, singing Namanda. He had also a large tub of water standing by him, on a board, with some written papers hanging down into the water, and some Skimmi branches lying by it. The Priest took from time to time some of these Skimmi branches, ty'd them to a stick, dipt them into the water, and wash'd the tablets abovemention'd, in order to cool and refresh the souls of the persons, whose names were written on the same. The reader may easily imagine, that so much trouble was not to be taken for nothing. The superstitious Japanese gave him Kasjes in abundance, perhaps to pray for their souls, tho' the fellow had so much Of the rogue in his eyes, that he seem'd veryr much to want prayers to be said for himself. From thence we came soon after to Kio, then to Jamasijnokio, and the roads which Iead to the Kurodanna temple to the right; and the Giwon temple to the left a little further, then to the famous bridge Sansionofas, and so at last to our Iml at Miaco about an hour after sunset.

 On the 9th of May our Ambassador receiv'd a present of five growns from the Lord chief Justice of Miaco. The two Governors of that city sent him each five Schuits, by way of a present, which were wrapt up in a paper and plac'd on the middle of a board, such as it is the country fashion to make, when they send one another presents; on the same board lay five letters folded, each with a particular direction, and a Shuit of silver in it. On the same day several goods and things manufacturwd at Miaco were offer'd us to sale. They were brought up into our room by our own Japanese servants, because the merchants themselves are not permitted to see us. Nay we were oblig'd twice to send down again, what we had already purchas'd by reason of some small Idolboxes, which the striet search made below notwithstandingr were by mistake brought up among other things. All this was owing to our Interpreters, whose troublesome and over vigilant care would not suffer us to see, if possible, much less to buy any thing, that hath the least resemblance to the Idols of the country. Besides that, the goods we bought here cost us near as much as they would have done at Desima,    [ 599]    there being proper persons appointed to determine the prices, which is always done as much to our disadvantage as possible.

On the 10th of May, we set out again from Miaco, after a small breakfast of Japanese victuals, for which our landlady had a Cobang, pursuant to an old custom.

Being this day to view the majesty of the temples and Othersacred buildings at Miaco, we found Cangos waiting for us at the door, and went in the first place to the famous Monastery Tsuwoin, where the Emperor lodges when he comes to Miaco to visit the Dairi. It belongs to the sect Siodo, the followers of which worship Nama Adai, and it is said to have been founded upwards of 800 years ago. The first thing we saw there, was the large palace, where the Emperor is lodg'd. The Image of the illustrious Emperor Genjogin is kept in the same, in a small chapple; the respect and veneration the Japanese shew tor his memory, falls but little short of divine worship and adoration. On the left hand, behind a curious garden, is a way which leads up to a small temple built on an eminence, where the said Emperor's bones and ashes are preserv'd. Assoon as we came into the back apartments, the Osjo, or prior of the monastery, had notice sent him of our arrival. The prior's house is pleasantly seated just on the edge of a steep hill, planted with trees and bushes in an irregular but agreeable manner. He came down into the palace attended by several young boys well clad, one of whom was shav'd and clad like a monk, and ten other young monks shav'd. He was an old gentleman of an agreeable countenance and good complexion, to all appearance in a good state of health, clad in a violet or dark purple colour'd gown, with a bush, such as they wear at court, of the same colour, and an alms bag, which he held in his hands, richly embroider'd with gold. He stood at some distance to see us, and order'd some monks to treat us with a dish of tea, in return of which civility we presented them with an Itzebo wrapt up in paper. Going out he left a good number of monks behind him sitting, who lin'd both sides of the room. He sat down himself at the further end of the row, behind the skreen, perhaps to shew us what state and splendor he lives in. From the palace we went over a terrass rais'd a little above the ground, to a large neighbouring temple supported by five times six strong wooden pillars, or rather seven times eight, those taken in, which support the gallery, which goes round the outside. In the middle of the temple stood a small varnish'd chappel magnificently adorn'd with Namandas and other curious ornaments. Other chappels with Idols stood on both sides. The temple equall'd in largeness an European church. The mats were taken up from the floor, and lay in a corner by themselves, and lamps were burning every where before the Idols. We did not think it worth our while to see all the other temples and houses which were in the neighbourhood, we were conducted however about 400 paces up a hill, to see a large Gum or bell. It was rather superior in height and circumference to that of the    [ 600]    second magnitude at Moscow, but ill shap'd, the edges at the lower end being turn'd inward, contrary to the fashion of our European bells, whereby the sound is, as it were, suffocated within the bell. As we came by, a man struck it for our diversion with a large stick of wood. It seem'd to me however that they make little or no use of it, the stick being quite new, and tied to it. The bell was otherwise rough and ill cast. It was one Siakf thick, as they told us, 16 Siakfs and eight thumbs high, and twenty eight Siakfs and eight thumbs in circumference. A Siakf is ten Sums; half a Siakf is call'd Gosum, which is a little less than our span, being as much, as one can reach with his thumb and fore finger extended. Four Siakfs with them make a Ftofiro, so that one Ikin or the length of a mat, which is as much as a fathom with us, is with them two Siakfs and three Sum, or thumbs. From this bell (the figure of which see Fig. 132) we were by the two monks, who had orders to attend us, conducted to the other gate of their monastery, where we took our Ieave. From thence we came to another stately structure supported by fourtimes four or sixteen pillars, with two houses, one on each side, wherein there is a staircase leading up to the said structure. From the other side of this building, going down three staircases, one of 20, one of two, and one of three steps) the two last whereof were of stone, we came to another hill facing the city, and beset with temples. We sent our Norimons empty before us, and walking on foot for about half a quarter of an hour, across a pleasant wood, we came to a square place, on which stood a Giwon temple, with upwards of 20 smaller Mia's or chappels, with lamps atld dishes of victuals on a table placed before them.

Opposite to the temple, near the entry of the temple court, sate the Canusi's clad in white ecclesiastical gowns with stiff varnish'd caps. Our Interpreters ask'd some Puties of us for them. Coming out of this court we pass'd by a stately Tori, or temple gate, and then enter'd a street full of bawdy houses. The landlords of these houses are not allow'd to keep more than two wenches apiece, least any one of them should grow too rich by this trade. The price of the most beautiful is three Maas for a night, for the middle sort two Maas, and for the sorriest one Maas, turning out of this street into another on our left, we came to a small temple call'd Kurumado standing in the same row with the rest of the houses. Within this temple to the right stood a small altar, upon which they offer incense to Amida and others of their divinities, and opposite to it, at some paces distance stood such another, but larger, with burning lamps. In a corner to the left, within a large wooden grate, we took notice of a sexangular lanthorn cover'd with black gawze which could be turn'd round like a wheel, and is said to be of great service in discovering unknown and future things. We were told likewise that a large book of their Gods and religion lay in the same lanthorn, of the contents whereof they would, or could give us no particulars, and only would make us believe, that it was a very strange and miraculous thing. Our Bugio being carried by the landlord into this    [ 601]    temple, I took the opportunity of following him, meanwhile the others staid in the street. From Kurumado passing by a stately tower built in the ascent of the mountain, and seven stories high, with five galleries round it, we came to the large Kiomids temple, which is built likewise in the ascent of the mountain, and the frontispice particularly was supported by long wooden posts. In this and two neighbouring smaller temples I observ'd nothing remarkable, besides what I have already mention'd in the journal of our first voyage. They were full of Idols and Images. Among the rest a battle was represented on one wall, and the town of Osacca on another, with many more things of this kind, strange to behold. On the upper side of the hill above the water, stood another small temple with several Idols, and among the rest the Image of an old woman: otherwise there was nothing wanting, what was thought could contribute to make this situation pleasant and agreeable. From this temple we went down a stony staircase of upwards of an hundred steps to a running water, which hath given the name to the temple, and thence, according to an old custom we went to an Inn, or rather a bawdy house, where we were treated by our landlord after the Japanese manner, for which he had a Cobang, the landlady an Itzebo, and the two wenches attending some small matter each. Having staid about an hour and a half in this place, we stept into our Cangos again, and caus'd ourselves to be carried to the large temple of Daibods (See Si 130.) Before the court of this temple is a small h* rais'd by art, at the top whereof stands a stone monument which they call'd the tomb of ears, because Teiko, when he return'd from the war, which he carried on against the inhabitants of the country of Jesso caus'd his two ears, which had been cut off in a fray, to be buried there The court of the Daibods temple is enclos'd with a wali built of freestone, which are of an uncommon size, particularly in the front. I have already describ'd the Open gallery, which goes round the temple court on the inside of this wall, and which is cover'd with a roof supported by a double row of 50 pillars on each side, or 400 in all, supposing the court to be due square. All these pillars are painted red. A stone staircase of eight steps leads up to the gate house, at the entry of which stand two shocking Images of giants call'd Awun, or Injo, or Niwo, black, or rather of a very dark purple mix'd with black. That which stands to the left, coming in, hath the mouth open, and one of the hands stretch'd out, the other on the contrary, which stands opposite to it, hath the mouth shut, and the hand close to the body, with a long staff, which it holds half backwards. They are said to be the emblems of the two first and chief principles of nature, the active and passive, the giving and taking, the opening and shutting, heaven and earth, zeneration and corruption, according to their own exptication. Having pass'd through the gate house, we came upon a fine place, which hath sixteen stone pillars on each side for lighting of lamps, a    [ 602]    water bason for people to wash themselves, and some other things. The Daibods temple itself is supported by large wooden pillars, of a monstrous thickness, some of which are made only of one trunk, but others of several trunks put together like our masts, and round All these pillars, as well as the posts and beams of the temple, and in general most of the timber work is painted red.

To the right of the temple stood a small chappe black alld varnish'd, with a looking glass within, as big hat of S. Stanislas at Cracow. Some trade's women were sitting within the temple. I took notice that near this and other temples guards were mounted with staves in their hands, I suppose on our account. The floor of thistemple is pav'd with square free stones. From this temple we went to that of Quanwon. The Idol of Quanwon was in the middle of the temple sitting; he had about him the great devotee Sakka, a lean sower looking old fellow, and some Niwos, bigger than the life, with some other Images of unknown persons. On each side of the temple were ten shelves or benches of wood, behind each other, and running from one end of the temple quite to the other. Fifty Images of Quanwon stood on each bench, every Image was plactd on a pedestal by itself, and the whole number dispos'd in such a manner that there were always five on each side one behind another in a streight line. Hence it appears, that there were a thousand Images of Quanwon, as big as the life standing on both sides of the temple,which with the 33 in the middle make 1033, and with the small puppets, and Images, which they carry in their hands and upon their heads, in all 33333, according to their computation. These Sensiu Quanwons were all gilt, with a garland or crown round their heads, and each with upwards of 20 arms, two of which, and those arising from the breast, they hold upwards m a praying posture. Two other arms hold, the right a Dsijso staff, and the left a three pointed pike. After the same manner all the other arms either embrac'd one another, or held each something particular in their hands. (See Fig. 129.) A grate is drawn length ways before this assembly of Gods, as also between the benches, where there are small walks to go from one end of the temple to another. Without the temple people diverted themselves with shooting of arrows, and I found it set down in their Chronicles as somewhat very remarkable, that sometimes several thousand arrows were shot by one man in a day's time. The mark to shoot at, is at 170 paces distance. (A view of this Quanwon temple taken from a Japanese original, is represented in Fig. 131.)

Having sufficiently diverted our eyes with the view of these temples, we caus'd our selves to be carried down to the waterside, where we found the boats and barges ready to receive us, in order to fall down the river. We did not stay to dine at Fusimi (as usual) there being no room for us in any of the Inns there, they being all fill'd by the retinues of five Princes, who came to divert themselves in this town,    [ 603]    so we fell down forthwith to Jodo, and were shew'd to our left, a place call'd Nara, or Narano Miaco, where Miaco stood in former times, and where there is also a Daibods temple. The place on which the city of Miaco now stands is call'd Fiesanno Miaco We then came in sight of Jamasaki, situate on our right at the foot of a mountain, on which stands the famous temple Jamasaki Sengin. On our left we saw another temple call'd Jawattano Fatzman. It was already dusky when we came in sight of Osacca, and we could not get to our Inn in that town before midnight

On the 11th of May, we repos'd our selves from the fatigues of our preceding journey, and our Embassador receiv'd from each of the Governors a present of some Shuits of silver by way of return for the present he had made them himself in going to court.

On the 12th of May, we were carried to Symmios, and from thence back again to Tenosi, where our landlord staid for us to treat us. Having left Osacca, we soon came into the open fields, where we took notice of a square place wall'd in, in the middle whereof stood a large high house, with a chimney in the middle, not unlike a melting house. This house serves for the burning of their dead, which is done sometimes in the open court, if there be no room in the house. There are several small villages on both sides of the road between Symmios and Tenosi, and part of the road runs along the side of a hill, which is planted with trees. The people in the field were dunging their growth of cotton.

The Simmios temple stands in a large court in a pleasant wood on the left hand of the road to Sakkai. A high Torij or temple gate, of stone and a broad walk lead the curious to a high bridge, not unlike one half of a wheel, alltl built over a small brook. This bridge is said to beof gareat antiquity, for whlch reason, and in memory of the histories, which made it famous, they do what they call, to mend it and keep it standing. It is very difficult to get over its but for the convenience of passengers, two other bridges of a secure and easier passage, have been built over the same brook. Beyond these bridges is the court, where the temples are built, several of which we left on our left hand, and without loss of time went towards the chief, where we found the Canusi's sitting, clad in white gowns. It hath two gates with grated windows in the middle of the front, through which the Japanese look'd and bow'd towards the place, where the Idol of Dai Miosin is hid. To the right of this chief temple, which on its sides, and in the rooms adjoining to it was adorn'd with images, pictures and ornaments, among which was hung up a map of the whole world, wherein the country of Jesso was represented as contiguous to the great Tartary, is a place for people to repose themselves, and to drink a dish of tea. A little further is a pond, with a stone-bridge, wherein they always keep tame fish. A Plan of this temple and its appurtenances is represented in Fig. 134.   [ 604]

a. Is the Torij or temple-gate of stone.

b. The round bridge.

c. The chief temple where the Canusi's sit clad in white.

d. The stone bridge over the fish-pond.

e. A place to drink a dish of tea, built after the manner of a gatehouse.

f. Temples with Kuge's waiting.

A. Eiwonimatz, or Eisonomatz a fir, split in two near the trunk, one of which bearing smaller and tenderer leaves) they call the female, and the other, which bore larger and stronger ones, the male.

B. A small oblong chappel, out of which the Idols are! taken, when carried about in processions.

C. A large stately temple.

D, D. Two other stately temples, standing opposite to another, with double bended roofs, and double galleries round.

Having view'd what was remarkable at this place, fed the fish at dd, and drank a dish of tea at ee, for which we left an Itzebo, we stept into our Cangos again, in order to be carried the old road, as they call it, back to Tenosi. A broad walk, beset with lanthorns and enclosid on both sides with hedges, led us to a stately gate with bended roofs leading to another temple, in the court of which we beheld, not without admiration, a square tower, eight stories high, and cover'd with as many stoping roofs curiously carv'd. Behind this tower, a little to the left, is the chief temple of Sotoktais, where the chief Idol was rais'd in the middle, and had another Idol to the right, which was a yard and a half high, and surrounded with the Idols of the four elements and a double cloath. ThW whole temple was black with smoke, from the numbers of burning lamps hung up within and without. From this we were conducted to another long temple, which contain'd five large Idols rais'd above the ground, and great numbers of smaller ones standing above them in several rows. Thence they carry'd us to a narrow room, where they shewad us a mineral-water, which carries some iron or vitriol, running into a trough, wherein it had form'd by degrees a sediment not unltlke, as to its shape, to a Tortoise, from whence they call'd it the Sea Tortoisewater. A pail of Bambous hung by it for people to drink.

Having view'd also these temples, we went back to the Inn, which was some few streets distant, and stood together with the neighbouring houses and a Quanwon temple, on a rising ground, which commands a noble prospect over the town and country of Osacca in the sea. We staid here some hours, and were handsomly treated by our lord. In the afternoon we return'd to Osacca, and by the way we were shew'd a temple call'd Ikudama, situate on the left side of the road in a wood at the foot of a mountain Not far from the temple was a pond. From thence we came to the suburbs of Osacca, which are full of temples, thence to Osacca Firamatz, where we pass'd by a garden full of Fudsi trees then in    [ 605]    blossom, and between five and six in the evening we got back to our Inn.

On the 13th of May, we set out from Osacca in Cangos, at eight in the morning. We had sent our night-dress before us on three horses, and our heavy baggage by water. The first place we came to, was the village Khitamas which was on our left and contiguous to Osacca, thence we came to the village Famma on our right, thence to the villages Sanba, Sinke, Dsiuso, Midsuja, where there is an oblong temple of the Idol Soofukusi. This place is two miles distant from our Inn at Osacca. Our landlord would go with us so far, and treated us here at dinner Thence passing thro' the village Fatsima, we cross'd the river Kansackigava, which comes from Dsuso, or Itzibangava, and was then, as indeed it is at all times, full of boats going up to Fusimi, and coming down from thence This river is broad, full of small Islands, and its windings are very irregular. Thence passing thro' the village Maju, we came to the town of Amagasacki. This toxvn consists of about 2000 houses. The above-mentionwd river runs thro' it, and round the castle, which hath a tower and strong walls of freestone. The streets were wash'd before us, wherever we were conducted, by order of two gentlemen who were sent to attend us in our passage, and the people saw us go by kneeling at the doors of their houses with great modesty, every body keeping a profound silence. On the road hither we saw great numbers of calves, which are nurs'd up for ploughing, the country hereabouts being reckon'd the best in Japan for wheat and barley. The soil being naturally a little dry and sandy, the natives remedy this fault by manuring it with human dung. From Amagasaki we came to the village Imas, at the entry of which, in the fields, stood six Idols of stone with characters, which we had observ'd also at the entry of Amagasaki. We then came to the village Asiap, thence to the village Kasama, in the neighbourhood of which is a quarry of freestone, which are brought to the water-side in carts drawn be oxen. These carts have but three wheels, each of one solid piece of wood. The stones are afterwards transported by water for mills and other uses. The carts are very low, and when they unlade them, they take off the furthermost wheel to let the stones drop down. We were assur'd, that last year the waters of the river encreasid to such a degree by a continual rain of four and twenty days, that many of these stones, tho' very large, were wash'd away in several places. This river is callad Simisgava, and the place where the stone-diggers live Simsi. Not far from hence is another quarry call'd Taganakawara, and the village Midoro, which hath a large fish-pond to the left, and to the right the high mountain Maijasan, at the very top of which stands a temple in a wood. Not far off we met with another fishpond and a house, from which there is a way leading to a neighbouring temple. From hence we were carried to the borough Koobe, where we took boat, in order to set over to the harbour of Fiongo.   [ 606]    On the 14th of May, early in the morning, we set sail from Fiongo aboard our own barge, and with a favourable wind pass'd the streights of Akasi, where the wind begun to abate, being follow'd by a heavy shower of rain. However we rowid on, and late at night cast anchor near the Island Kurokaki. We saw to day the Prince of Fisen go by on the shore, who made his journey from Osacca to Simonoseki by land in 13 days time. All the princes of the Empire compleat their journey from Miaco to Jedo in thirteen days time, none being excepted from this rule but those who are of the Imperial blood, and the Prince of Satzuma, who is seldom less, and sometimes more than forty days on his journey thither.

On the 15th of May, we set sail by break of day, with a small breeze, in serene and clear weather. We dinud in sight of Odzutz, or Kodzutz, and then made a small Island opposite to Sijmotsui, where we went on shore, to take in provision of fresh water, and found the place full of horses belonging to the Prince of Bitsju. This forenoon the Prince of Nagatta sail'd by us with an attend ance of sixty barges, and in the afternoon that of Janagava with ten.

On the 16th of May, we hoisted our sail again before break of day with a brisk favourable gale and good weather. About half an hour after ten we made the Island and borough Ige. Most of the houses of this borough, which is the residence, of a petty Lord, are white. Soon after we came in sight of Iwagi, which we had to the starboard, and having pass'd through the streights of Fanaguri, we got sight of Mitarei, which we left to our starboard, as we did also sometime after the Islands Nuwa and Tsuwa, altho' out of sight, and so we made strait for the Islands of Camiro, and thence for the streights of Caminoseki. The wind continuing favourable we pass'd these streights also, and at the coming out met upwards of an hundred ships and boats, large and small, at anchor. However, we pursued our course, and cast anchor about an hour after, in order to be the sooner ready to set sail the next morning. We had made this day fifty water-miles, which are hereabouts reckon'd nearly equal to the land-miles, contrary to what they are upon the main, out of sight of land, where they are much larger.

On the 17th of May, the wind and weather continuing to favour us, we set sail early in the morning, in company of upwards of twenty other ships, and made Simonoseki after noon, from whence we set over in small boats to Kokura, where we arriv'd at seven in the evening.

We set out from Kokura on horseback, on the I8th of May, at six of the clock in the morning, and among other places pass'd through the following, the borough Kurosakki, the villages Ujenofar, Koosiakf, Kujanosse, Nogatta, Katajima, and some more, which I forbear mentioning. We took fresh horses at Itzka, which was the third time we chang'd them this day, and thence passing through the villages Tentamatz and Nagawa, we came late at night with flambeaux to the borough of Utsijno, where we lay.    [ 607]    On the 19th of May, we set out again with flambeaux, at five of the clock in the morning, and were carried in Cangos over the mountains to the village Jammaije, where we staid about half an hour to take fresh horses, which we afterwards chang'd again at Maatzkassua. From hence the road goes to the great temple Fikosan, svhich is ten miles distant. We met near that temple, two strong lusty fellows with their heads shav'd, and their scimeters stuck in their girdles, carrying their night-dresses on their back. We were told, they were Jammabos. They were follow'd by one on horseback, who seem'd to be of the same stamp. We then came to Kurume, a large town of about 2000 houses. Entring the town we found the guard under arms, lining both sides of the street to some distance from the guard-house. As soon as we came up to them, two of the soldiers put themselves at the head of our retinue, and two others behind to attend us in our passage through the town. The streets were wash'd before us, and there was not the least crowd to be seen, all the people keeping in the backside of their houses, where they saw us go by, kneeling, and in such a profound silence, that not the least noise was to be heard. We went by the place where publick orders and proclamations are put up, not far from the ditch of the castle, where we saw a new proclamation put up lately, and twenty Shuits of silver nail'd to the post, (in the manner as represented in Fig. 137) to be given as a reward tc any body that would discover the accomplices of a murder lately committed upon a dog. Many a poor man hath been severely punish'd in this country, under the present Emperor's reign, purely for the sake of dogs. From Kurume we came to the village Osijmamatz. There is a road leading from this village to the famous mountain Usen, at the foot of which towards Nagasaki lies a cele brated hot bath call'd Obamma. I have already given an account of this mountain in Vol. I. p. 167, whether I refer the Reader. From Osijmamatz we came to the village Jokomisomatz, and thence to the village Jakame, where the territories of the Prince of Kurume end, and the gentlemen sent by him to wait of us in our passage through the same, took their leave. Thence we came soon after to the suburbs of Janagava, and went to an Inn on this side of the bridge, our Interpreters pretending it was customary in that country upon returning from court not to go to the same Inn, people had been at in going up. We saw to day the country people dry raddish seeds in the fields, and afterwards thresh them. Some people also were busy about plucking off the Tsja, or tea leaves, which they did so efectually, that nothing was left on the shrubs but the meer stalks. They sort the leaves in baskets as they pluck them off. Some countrymen begun already to sow rice, which work we took notice in another place, was done by women. They till the fields when under water, then plough them with oxen, which are somewhat smaller than those made    [ 608]

 use of for carriage, and with short mattocks break them into mud. Some hours after supper we set out from Janagava by water in three barges. After we had fallen down the river, the watermen could not go further till next morning, because the commanding officer hath receiv'd strict orders, under pain of death to take care, that we shou'd pass the gulph with safety.

On the 20th of May, we were set over the gulph of Arima, and came first to Takasaki, then to Isafaja.

On the 21st of May, we set out from Isafaja by break of day, and passing through the villages Kami Jaki and Kega, and over the river Kusnogava, we came about nine in the morning to the borough of Jagami, din'd there, and prepar'd our selves for our entry at Nagasaki.

c met here some of our friends and servants, who came to receive us. This place is reckon'd four miles distant from IsaSaja and three from Nagasaki. The first four miles are reckon'd equal in length to fifty streets, and the remaining three make scarce more than two good ones, but they are put at three, because of the badness of the road, which is very mountainous and uneven, and the wages of the workmen, who must be paid for three miles. After dinner we pass'd by the boundaries of the territories of Fisen and Nagasaki, where we discover'd to our left the village Aba, from which they ferry over to the hot bath of Obamma. From thence we pass'd through the borough Timi and the village Toge, and arriv'd about on in good health at Nagasaki.

 To the almighty be again thanks, glory and praise, for his pourerful protection, and numberless other mercies, I receiv'd from his infinite bounty in the long course of my travels, and more particularly in this my second journey, to the court of Jedo.

Nothing remains now to compleat this my account of Japan, but briefly to relate what hapen'd since our return to Desima, till my departure from thence for Batavia and Europe.

The first thing we were told, after our return to Desirna) was, that about ten days before orders had been sent from Jedo not to kill any living creature, but fish, unless it be for the Dutch and Chinese, and not to sell any cattle or poultry. We took notice accordingly, in our passage thro' the city, that all poultry-shops were shut, tho' in the mean time they made no scruple to sell theln in private in their houses.

Some days after our return a discovery was made, that the Chinese, by whores and other means, had smugled to the Japanese the Nisi Root, Calambak, and Musk, on which account the question was given to three people, who confess'd that they had bought of these goods only for 1000 Thails. Criminals are now brought to a very quick confession by a new instrument of Sino Cami's own invention, being a bench full of short sharp points, over which the criminals are drawn, not unlike the witchesstool at    [ 609]    Lemgow, the extream pain and torment of which, would make the most innocent man confess, what he never was guilty of.

On the 3rst of May our Ambassador, Mr. Dubbels, and myself, went to wait of the Governor at his house, and to return him thanks. We were receiv'd and admitted to audience much after the same manner, as we usually are by the great men at Jedo.

The night before the first of June, three people made away with themselves: two whereof hang'd themselves, one an inhabitant of Nagasaki, for smugling, the other, who was a monk, for reasons not known. The third, out of despair and poverty, ript open his belly.

On the 14th of June, the first Chinese yonks set sail for China. There were then in all four and twenty in the harbour, seventeen of which had had already their frst Cambang or day of sale.

On the same 14th, and again afterwards on the 16th of June, some Japanese went about the harbour in a boat, as full as it could hold, crying Nembutz and Namanda. This boat had been fitted out for this purpose at the expence of a street, wherein several people lay sick of a hot pestelential fever, by this means to banish the evil spirit Jekire, as they call him, who had begun to rage and torment people in that street. For the same reason also the Fiakmanben, or the hundred thousand was drawn about. This Fiakmanben is a Iarge Rosary of 108 large beads, which old and young, sitting in a circle, take in their hands, and so let them go round, crying Namanda every time they take a new ball. If the distemper increases, the same is done in all the temples. (The figure of this Fiakmanben see among other ornaments of the map at the end of Vol. III.)

The 22d of June was one of the days sacred to the memory of the late Emperor, on which occasion it is customary to pardon and release out of prison six criminals guilty of theft, who are afterwards banish'd ten miles from Nagasaki.

On the 23d of June, notice was sent to Nagasaki, that the last year the Chinese had smugled for at least five chests of silver, and that most of the goods were sold at Osacca. There is hardly one in three of all the Chinese yonks, that returns to China with a full cargo, they always dispose of the major part of the Japanese, who privately follow them.

On the 24th of June, they made Fiakmanben, all day long, chiefly in the streets near Desima, and near the houses where people lay sick. The place where it was drawn, was cover'd to preserve the people from the heat of the sun.

On the 26th of June, we went to see the temples of the city, with the usual attendance of our interpreters, and other officers and the mayors of the town. the temples we saw were

1. Tsaktsjudira, or better Fukusai, a Chinese temple A stair-case of 50 steps leads up to it, and the entry into the court is thro' a round gate. Opposite to the temple stood a small chappel with an Idol, which had a sword in one hand, call'd Itaten. The temple itself was supported by pil    [ 610]    lars: it was a square varnish'd building divided into three parts, in the middle of which was the Idol of Saka, to its right stood the Image of a Chinese Emperor with three servants, and on its left that of a young boy well clad, with a crown on his head, and some Chinese standing behind him. Matches of barks of trees were put before each of the three chief Idols, mix'd with a composition of sweet scented species. They measure the time by these matches, of which there was but one burning, when we were there, which did not smoke much. The floor was cover'd with bricks, and straw cushions were placed round, on which the Priests were sitting Another temple of the same structure stood near this. In the ascent of the mountain we were shewn the houses of the Priests and some other small temples and chappels, with Idols as big as the life, in several shapes and vrrell enough proportion'd. We were entertain'd here after the Chinese manner, and the F. Prior, a tall well-looking civil man, shew'd himself at a distance in his purple robes.

2. Suwa. Upwards of 200 steps lead up to this temple across some streets in the ascent of the mountain. The chappel of the Saint is still higher, and there are two stair-cases going up to it, one of wood and varnish'd. which was shut for us, the other of stone, which M c walk'd up. It is but one or two years since the chappel Or this Saint was built higher than it stood before, the Mikaddo having conferr'd a greater title on him. Several smaller Mia's and chappels stood on the same place, as did also a theatre for plays, a house wherein they keep all sorts of Idols to entertain people's devotion, and a chappel of the Idol of the Forty Leggs, before which were hung up some Pictures of it. The Canusi's had their houses on the edge of the mountain. They wore secular habits, and had their short hairs comb'd back

3. On the other side of the mountain stood the temple of Siutokus, which about two years ago was accidentally set on fire, some boys playing there, for which reason we could see nothing there but an Idol of Saka. The censor of the Budsdo books, which are brought over from China to sale, lives here. He is of the Sen Sect.

4. Koofkusi, or Nanquindira, where we saw nothing hesides the temple-court, the temple itself being built much higher, and to be seen at a considerable distance trom Nagasaki.

5. A broad walk leading to an open chappel, wherein rvas the Idol of Daibods, sltting on a Tarate-Flower. A Kootais or Sensiu temple stood next to this chappel.

6. Daikus, or Ikosiu. We came to this temple about noon, and din'd there with all our train. Part of the fi ont of this temple was turn'd into a meeting-house, or church, and divided into several partitions. The Idol of Amida was plac'd at the back part, before which several people met, and the congregation being grown fuller, one of the monks came in to preach. He sate down between the chappel and the people, and read a sermon which lasted near an hour, and ended with a Prayer, which he read aloud, all    [ 611]    the people repeating it after him. Then others of the clergy walk'd up to the Idol of Amida, sung before it, and so the congregation was dismiss'd.

7. Soofokusi, or Foktsiu, another Chinese temple. In this temple stood the disciples of Siaka, in several odd postures, one was throwing a ring, another had the picture of Siaka before his breast, another eye-brows a yard long, and so on. All in general were in their Satori, or profound meditation. A prodigious large kettle stood in the same place, which was formerly made use of in a great famine, nvhen the Prior of the monastery went himself to beg people's charity for the relief of the poor, and there being at the same time a great scarcity of wood, he broke down one of the temples to make use of the wood for boiling rice in this large kettle. We went by some others, and among the rest a Giwon temple, and so came to

8. The temple of Kiomids, or Sesusi, which was built at the top of a deep precipice. A long walk and several stair-cases led up to it. Six Dsiso idols stood on the left coming in, each with a bason of water standing before it, as is usual in their burying places, and a Skimmibranch lying by the bason, which every one of those that came in, dipt into the water to wash the idols with it. The images of their ancestors are kept in the temple, which was square and shut up. An idol of Quanwon of stone stood near it, which was to be worship'd on both sides.

On the first of July, we went to view the company's barges, when the oldest, and most out of repair, were declar'd useless. From thence we went to the neighbouring Island Mangome to see a temple of Seotokus, whence we returnid back again on foot. By the way we were conducted into a temple of Fokkesiu, where the monks receiv'd us with uncommon civility, and shew'd us all the most private places, admiring us and our things, and being extraordinary well p]eas'd with the honour of our visit. The flags and banners, which were hung up in their temples and chappels, as marks of joy and triumph, are not unlike those which are carried about by the Roman Catholicks in their processions, and made of the richest and scarcest stuffs much of the same shape with the Cajemans near the temples at Siam. We were from thence conducted into a neighbouring Chinese Fukasai temple, which we had seen the year before. We got home about three in the afternoon.

On the 25th of July, the smuglers, who had bought goods privately from the Chinese, were executed. The body of one of their guards, that ript open his belly, and of another person who made away with himself, were laid on the cross. Two were beheaded at Mangome the usual place of execution, and eight others, who would not confess, banish'd to the Islands Gotho, and sent thither bound and under a strong guard.

On the 30th of July seven barges of the Prince of catzuma came into this harbour, and brought two Patanese prisoners, who were cast in a storm upon the Riuku I<lands, and from thence brought over to Satzuma. They were forthwith carried to the Governors, to be examin'd about    [ 612]    their language and the place they came from. They seem'd to be both very modest young men, one of thirty, the others of five and twenty years, according to their oxvn confession, which they made by signs. They shew'd the largeness and situation of their Islands by placing stones of different sizes on the ground, and calling them by their names Tambaku, Babasan and so on. One seem'd to be a well bred man and of some learning. They sat on the ground before the palace, and had each his guard to look after him, sitting on mats for distinctions sake. They were shav'd after the manner of the Polanders, and had two or three holes in each ear by way of ornament. They made use of their left hands, as we do of the right. They made their compliment after the manner of the Asiatick nations, clapping their hands together over their head, and touching the ground with their forehead. They are now kept prisoners in the common Jail. The transport of these two men cost the Prince of Satzuma no less than ten chests of gold, some of the convoy ships being row'd by fourscore, and the smallest by forty watermen, besides the rewards to be given to those Lords, who came up with them out of respect to the Emperor and their Prince.

In the month of August four of our ships came into the harbour, all on one day, the two last from Siam.

On the first of October we had our second Camban or day of sale, and made the usual presents to the Governor.

About that time fifty Chinese who had been kept prisoners a long while, were brought on board a yonk in order to be transported to China. They had been concern'd in hiding and smugling of one pound of the Ninsin root, for which crime three persons had been beheaded, one broke on the cross, one of the Interpreters cut his belly, and the rest were sentenc'd to be banish'd.

On the 25th of October, and three following days, three of our ships weigh'd as far as the Papenberg.

On the 29th, after the usual presents and diversion we went on board the admiral Pampus, laden with upwards of a thousand pickles of copper and with a favourable Northwind weigh'd likewise as far as the Papenberg.

On the 30th I went on board the other ships, to fetch away my printed books and manuscripts, which had been privately carried thither among other goods.

On the 31 st of October we left the harbour of Nagasaki by break of day, steering S. E. with a brisk N. E. gale.

And here also I gladly put an end to this my History of Japan.


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